Ungaro by Emanuel Ungaro c1977

Ungaro by Emanuel Ungaro: launched in 1977.

Although he worked in Paris, Emanuel had Italian origins. Balenciaga-trained, he worked for Courreges and opened hi sown business in 1965. He was noted for his inventive blending of different prints, experimenting with textures and bold colors.

Ungaro introduced his first fragrance, simply called Ungaro in 1977. Some people confuse this fragrance, with the reformulated and repackaged version from 1990 in the dark blue bottle, some may not even know his first perfume was in the 70s.

Ungaro, like other fashion designers at the time, wanted to bring out his own perfume. After smelling 2,000 different fragrance samples, he finally chose his perfect scent. The issue was not the ideal smell, but the right partner, he said. "I guess I'm a commercial snob," he said, comparing such a business partnership to a marriage, which he had made with Chanel, the first time that company had made a perfume with another designer.
 

Original Fragrance Composition:

Original 1977 Version is classified as a fruity fresh floral fragrance for women. It starts off with a green top note, followed by a green, resinous floral heart, resting on a mossy base.

• Top notes: galbanum, hyacinth, pineapple, aldehyde, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, pine needle, lily of the valley, fruity note
• Base notes: oakmoss, musk, amber, sandalwood, cedar

This version is housed inside of a clear glass, rectangular upright bottle with a square cap. This version was discontinued, then reformulated and relaunched in 1990.

Second Version:

The second version was reformulated and released in Europe in 1990, in USA in 1991.

The 1990 Version is classified as an ambery, oriental woody fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, rose essence, coriander, orange blossom, jasmine, neroli, bergamot and lemon
• Middle notes: Florentine iris, Turkish rose and lily-of-the-valley
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar and cardamom

Le nouvel observateur, 1990:

"Ungaro's story: His first [sic] would bear the name of an inaccessible creature, Diva. His second, that of a carnal encounter, Senso. His third, that of a conquest marked with the seal of the owner, Ungaro. More detours in the Tender map. The couturier directly scratches the feminine skin that wraps in the blue folds of his latest perfume. His lifelong accomplice, the alchemist Jacques Polge, provided him with the spell, based on blue iris from Florence, Turkish roses and sandalwood to trap the rebellious."

Bottle:

The 1990 version is presented in a dark blue ‘draped’ bottle with a green stopper designed by Jacques Helleu.

It was available in the following:

• 1/4 oz Parfum bottle stands 3" tall.
• 1.3 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
• 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Splash bottle stands 5.75" tall
• 1.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray  (Ref #700.422)
• 3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (Ref #700.423)
• 5 oz Creme Soyeuse Pour le Corps (Silken Body Cream)
• 6.8 oz Emulsion pour le Corps (Body Veil Lotion)
• Factice (dummy bottle) stands 7" tall.
• Medium Factice (dummy bottle) stands 10" tall.
• Giant Factice (dummy bottle) stands 14" tall.

The 1990 relaunched version is a absolutely stunning cross between vintage Poison by Dior and vintage JOOP! Femme. I find it incredible, a powerhouse.  This has been discontinued for years and is highly sought after by those who fell in love with it decades ago. Please note that the 2007 relaunch smells nothing like this vintage version. 

Newest Version:

Reformulated and relaunched in 2007. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Created by Francis Kurkdjian. Bottle designed by Sylvie de France.

• Top notes: red berries
• Middle notes: jasmine, white flowers
• Base notes: amber, saffron

The newest version is available in the following:

• 0.17 oz Eau de Parfum miniature
• 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
• 3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
• 150 ml Body Lotion 
• 150 ml Shower Gel

This too has been reformulated, from a peach colored juice to a purple colored juice.