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Wednesday, March 16, 2022

Ever After by Paquin c1941

In 1941, the world was amidst the turbulence of World War II, a period marked by uncertainty and longing for stability. Love and happiness during this time were often sought as escapes from the harsh realities of the war. The perfume "Ever After" by Paquin, launched in this challenging context, resonates deeply with the yearning for a sense of permanence and joy amidst the chaos. The name "Ever After" evokes a timeless narrative of romantic fulfillment and enduring happiness, capturing a moment when people clung to idealized visions of love and peace.

Films of the era often explored themes of romance and escape, providing solace and a fleeting respite from wartime anxieties. Classic films like "Rebecca" (1940) and "The Philadelphia Story" (1940) were popular, offering audiences a mix of romance and sophistication. These films, with their glamorous settings and idealized relationships, mirrored the desires that "Ever After" would represent—a dream of unchanging happiness and love that transcends the trials of the present.

The choice of the name "Ever After" is profound. It conjures images of fairy tales and storybook endings, promising a sense of completeness and everlasting contentment. The phrase "ever after" refers to the idea of a happily ever after, a conclusion to a story where the characters live in blissful contentment. For women of the time, the name would symbolize an aspirational escape to a world where personal and romantic dreams come true—a welcome distraction from the grim reality of wartime life.

Women responding to "Ever After" would likely be drawn to its promise of an idealized, uninterrupted happiness. The perfume's name would resonate as a symbol of hope and a reminder of the beauty and romance that could still be embraced despite the surrounding difficulties. The image evoked would be one of a serene, idyllic life—a perfect escape that contrasts sharply with the current reality.






By 1941, the House of Paquin had firmly cemented its status as a trailblazer in haute couture. Jeanne Paquin, the visionary behind the brand, had already made significant strides in the fashion world, being one of the first couturiers to extend her influence beyond Paris. Her ventures included establishing a branch in London and forging collaborations with artists and designers from various disciplines, reflecting her pioneering spirit and global ambition. The launch of "Ever After" during this tumultuous period of World War II, when many European luxury brands grappled with the challenges posed by the conflict, is a testament to the resilience and enduring appeal of the fashion and fragrance industry. Despite the war's constraints, these industries persisted, offering a semblance of normalcy and an emotional escape from the harsh realities of the time. The introduction of "Ever After" symbolizes not only Paquin’s continued innovation and elegance but also the broader industry’s capacity to provide hope and a touch of luxury amidst adversity.

The emotional impact of the name "Ever After" would be potent, suggesting an unblemished future and the fulfillment of one’s dreams. It’s a name that carries a unique charm, distinguishing it from other fragrances with more conventional names. The interpretation would be that of a scent embodying timeless elegance and perpetual bliss, inviting wearers to experience a taste of fairy-tale contentment.

In summary, "Ever After" by Paquin is more than just a perfume; it’s a symbol of enduring hope and romantic idealism. In a world fraught with conflict and uncertainty, its name offers a nostalgic promise of everlasting joy and happiness, making it a uniquely evocative and emotionally resonant choice for a fragrance.




Fragrance Composition:


Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? Ever After is a classified as a floral fragrance for women with a dominant jasmine note.
  • Top notes: bergamot,  honeysuckle, lily of the valley, neroli, tangerine
  • Middle notes: tuberose, rose de mai, ylang ylang, lilac, jasmine, rose, orange blossom
  • Base notes: frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, musk

Le Monde, 1950:
"Ever After", by Paquin, based on jasmine, which could replace perfume such is its tenacity. Presented in a cylindrical cut crystal bottle, decorated with an island wood stopper, this eau de toilette makes you dream of "elsewhere", of escapes."


In 1954, Combat Magazine described Ever After by Paquin as a radiant promise, capturing the essence of a fragrant dream woven from the finest floral notes. The perfume opens with a burst of tangerine, its zesty brightness setting the stage for a lush, captivating blend of jasmine and tuberose. This initial citrus sparkle soon gives way to the heart of the fragrance, where jasmine’s sensuality and tuberose’s opulence create a harmonious, feminine scent. Ever After borrows its name from the beloved fairy tale phrase, "they were happy ever after," and in its diluted form as an eau de toilette, it symbolizes the joyful magnificence of a harvest day. Imagining Ruth, her dark hair aglow in the sunlight, and Boaz tenderly embracing the lingering essence of her perfume, the fragrance embodies a serene yet vibrant optimism. It’s as if every note is infused with the hope of a perfect, untroubled future.

By 1955, Combat Magazine’s portrayal of Ever After evolved to emphasize its appeal to the young and vibrant, particularly blondes and young girls. The fragrance is celebrated for its fruity character, which, while distinct and unfamiliar in its plant associations, encapsulates the spirit of youthful exuberance. This edition of the perfume is described as deeply captivating, with a sense of risk and enthusiasm that mirrors the adventurous spirit of youth. The fragrance’s unique profile makes it a standout, capturing the essence of a generation poised on the brink of its future, full of energy and promise.

L'Amour de l'art, in 1950, framed Ever After as a summer's promise encased in a bottle. The initial floral note is likened to the clarity of a summer morning, yet it subtly conceals a more intense, ardent theme beneath. This perfume is portrayed as an aristocratic scent, indifferent to seasonal changes and proud of its distinctive personality. It represents a fragrance that transcends time and trends, embodying a timeless elegance and passionate depth. The imagery of summer warmth and vibrant beauty, combined with the complex layers of the perfume, evokes a sense of enduring allure and sophistication.

Together, these descriptions weave a rich tapestry of Ever After, portraying it as a perfume that combines youthful exuberance with timeless sophistication. From the radiant, optimistic promise of a fairy-tale ending to the captivating depth that appeals to youthful spirits, Ever After by Paquin is a fragrance that speaks to both the heart and the senses, offering a complex and enchanting olfactory experience.



Scent Story:


In the midst of the second world war, 1941, a war-torn Paris bustled with a different kind of energy—a subtle undercurrent of hope and romance amidst the chaos. The House of Paquin, under the stewardship of Jeanne Paquin, had continued its legacy of elegance and innovation, even as the city grappled with the uncertainty of wartime. In this atmosphere of yearning and resilience, the creation of the "Ever After" fragrance emerged as a poignant symbol of love and hope.

Picture a sunlit atelier, where the air is filled with the fragrant whisper of bergamot and the delicate sweetness of honeysuckle. As you enter, you’re greeted by the bright, citrusy scent of tangerine, mingling with the fresh, green nuances of lily of the valley and the soft, floral aroma of neroli. This initial burst of fragrance evokes the promise of a new beginning, a prelude to the deeper layers of this carefully crafted perfume.

In the background, the distant hum of war seems to fade as the soothing melodies of a piano play softly, creating a serene sanctuary amidst the turmoil. The sounds of the city are muffled, replaced by the comforting rhythm of love songs from the era, whispering tales of romance and longing.

As you move further into the room, the heart of "Ever After" begins to unfold. The richness of tuberose fills the air, its opulent scent a testament to passion and enduring affection. It intertwines with the luxuriant notes of rose de Mai and ylang-ylang, while lilac and jasmine add a layer of elegance and sophistication. The rose, symbolizing deep and timeless love, merges seamlessly with the warm, radiant essence of orange blossom. The combination creates an olfactory tapestry that speaks to the heart's deepest desires—the hope for a future shared with a beloved.

Imagine the taste of sweetness on your lips, reminiscent of a delicate confection, a treat savored in anticipation of a future reunion. The fragrance evokes this anticipation with every breath, blending the floral richness of the middle notes with the promise of a joyful reunion.

As you finally reach the base notes, a sense of tranquility envelops you. The aroma of frankincense lingers, its ancient and spiritual essence grounding the fragrance in a sense of timeless devotion. Vanilla adds a comforting sweetness, while sandalwood and vetiver provide a warm, earthy depth, evoking the stability and strength of a lasting relationship. The subtle musk adds a touch of intimacy, completing the fragrance with an embrace that feels both personal and enduring.

The soft, velvet texture of the perfume’s packaging is cool to the touch, its smooth surface a reminder of the gentle elegance that Paquin’s creations have always embodied. The fragrance’s complexity reflects not just the sophistication of haute couture but also the profound personal hope and love that went into its creation.

"Ever After" is more than just a perfume; it’s a beacon of hope, a fragrant promise of love that transcends the trials of war. It captures the essence of a romance that, despite the hardships, looks forward to a future of joy and everlasting happiness—a future where the dream of a happily ever after is very much alive.

Bottles:


As a high-end product, Ever After would have been marketed to an affluent clientele who appreciated fine craftsmanship and exclusivity. The perfume would have been sold in prestigious boutiques and department stores, aligning with Paquin's luxury brand image.

Paquin used bottles from Baccarat (flacon design #800) for various fragrances. Some of the crystal bottles for Espoir  & Ever After were produced by Baccarat. It's fascinating how Jeanne Paquin utilized Baccarat bottles for her fragrances, incorporating their renowned craftsmanship into her perfume presentations. The use of Baccarat bottles added a touch of luxury and sophistication to Paquin's perfume offerings, aligning with her brand's image of elegance and refinement.


In 1952, Paquin introduced a delightful novelty to the world of luxury fragrances: a music box that perfectly encapsulated the charm and elegance of the era. This enchanting creation played the melodious tunes of either "The Third Man" or "La Vie en Rose," adding a sensory experience that went beyond scent.

The music box was a beautifully crafted blue container, delicately edged in gold, exuding sophistication and luxury. Inside, it held three of Paquin's exquisite perfumes: 9 x 9, Ever After, and Espoir. Each fragrance was housed in elegant bottles that fit snugly within the box, which itself was a testament to Paquin's attention to detail and desire to offer more than just a perfume.

One of the most charming features of this music box was its versatility. Once the perfume bottles were emptied, the box could be repurposed as a cigarette box, maintaining its utility and beauty long after the fragrances had been enjoyed. This thoughtful design ensured that the box remained a cherished item, blending function with nostalgia.

Adding to the collection's allure was the Clochette, or bell, crafted from black lacquer basketry. This unique piece featured a one-ounce bottle of perfume set on a striking red base. Like the larger music box, the Clochette also played music, making it a delightful and whimsical addition to any dressing table. Its design not only celebrated the fragrance within but also the art of presentation, turning a simple perfume bottle into a captivating keepsake.

L'Atlantique, 1952:
"Paquin's music box which plays 'The Third Man' or 'La Vie en Rose,' contains three Paquin perfumes, '9 x 9,' 'Ever After' and 'Espoir' in a charming blue box edged in gold, which becomes a cigarette box when bottles are empty. A novelty is the 'Clochette' or bell of black lacquer basketry with a one ounce bottle of perfume on a red setting; this is also a music box!"
 

Fate of the Fragrance:


The eventual discontinuation of Paquin's fragrances, including Eau Ever After and Ever After, was likely influenced by a combination of factors, including shifting consumer preferences, changes in the perfume market, and the evolving strategies of the Paquin brand. During the Second World War, the perfume industry, like many other sectors, faced significant challenges. The conflict disrupted exports of luxury goods, including French perfumes, to the US market. Supply chains were interrupted, raw materials became scarce, and resources were redirected towards the war effort, halting the export of Paquin’s fragrances and depriving the brand of crucial revenue and exposure.

The post-war period, beginning in 1951, marked a turning point as exports of French perfumes to the US resumed. This was a time of rebuilding and recovery for Europe, and many brands, including Paquin, sought to reestablish their international presence. However, despite this resurgence, Paquin’s fragrances faced increased competition from emerging trends and new market entrants. The perfume industry was evolving rapidly, with fresh styles and scents gaining popularity. Changing consumer tastes and preferences also played a role, as the public’s desires shifted towards new and innovative fragrances.

Furthermore, the strategic direction of the Paquin brand may have influenced the decision to discontinue certain perfumes. Fashion houses often update their product lines to align with contemporary tastes and brand positioning. Ingredient restrictions due to health regulations or environmental concerns over the years could have also contributed to the discontinuation of specific fragrances. The market demand for certain scents might have declined, prompting the brand to phase out less popular products in favor of new offerings.

Despite these changes, bottles of Ever After by Paquin hold significant historical and collectible value today. Vintage perfumes from esteemed fashion houses attract collectors and enthusiasts who value the heritage and artistry of classic fragrances. Ever After stands as a notable example of mid-20th-century perfumery, reflecting the luxury, sophistication, and emotional resonance of its time. The perfume's legacy is a testament to Paquin's contribution to the industry and the enduring allure of vintage fragrances.


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