Brigand by Jacques Esterel c1966

Brigand by Jacques Esterel was launched in 1966 in France and introduced to the U.S. market in 1967. The choice of the name Brigand is intriguing and speaks to a sense of rebellious charm. In French, brigand translates to "bandit" or "outlaw" and is pronounced "bree-GON". The word evokes imagery of daring adventurers, boldness, and a hint of danger. A brigand is often depicted as a romanticized rogue—fearless, elusive, and untamed. The choice of this name for a women's fragrance suggests an alluring and provocative scent, aimed at those who embrace a free-spirited and daring lifestyle.

In scent, Brigand would reflect its name by being both untamed and captivating, offering a mix of complexity and intrigue. Classified as a spicy, woody chypre fragrance, it carries an animalic base wrapped in sweet floral notes, making it both seductive and youthful. The chypre family, known for its mossy, earthy qualities, combined with animalic undertones, creates an aura of mystery, while the sweet floral heart introduces softness, balancing the fierceness with femininity. This combination makes Brigand a fragrance for young women who wanted to express boldness and independence, much like the brigand figure it evokes.

During the mid-1960s, the world of perfume was marked by innovation and change. Fragrances during this period were becoming bolder, reflecting shifts in societal attitudes. Women were gaining more independence, and their choices in fashion and fragrance often echoed this newfound freedom. Brigand stood out as a unique entry in the market, blending the spicy, woody, and animalic notes often reserved for men's colognes with a feminine floral softness. While chypre fragrances were already popular, Brigand added an animalic depth that gave it a sensual and daring edge. The fragrance's youthful, rebellious spirit aligned with the cultural shifts of the 1960s, appealing to women who wanted to break away from traditional norms.

Jacques Esterel, a designer known for his innovative and modern approach to fashion, founded Société Anonyme des Parfums Jacques Esterel in October 1966. While the company was new and lacked a long history, Esterel had already made a name for himself in the fashion world. His designs reflected the vibrant, avant-garde trends of the 1960s, and his move into perfumery was a natural extension of his brand’s ethos. Brigand, launched at the very birth of his perfume house, quickly garnered success, resonating with the youthful, modern audience he aimed to reach. The head office of Parfums Jacques Estérel was located at 9 Avenue de l'Opera in Paris, a prestigious address, while the factory operated in Bois-Colombes, a suburb known for its industrial facilities.

Brigand was perfectly suited to the time period—a decade that saw the rise of women's liberation, daring fashion, and a shift toward individualism. It embodied the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, offering a scent for women unafraid to embrace their inner boldness.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy, woody, chypre fragrance for women. Its animalic base is enveloped in a sweet floral note. A youthful fragrance for young people.  

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Grasse neroli, plum, Jamaican pepper, green notes, Chinese quince, banana
• Middle notes: Spanish rosemary, French carnation, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose
• Base notes: Virginian blonde tobacco, Indonesian patchouli, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Omani frankincense, Tonkin musk, Arabian civet, Tyrolean oakmoss, Maltese labdanum, Sumatran styrax

Scent Profile:

Brigand opens with an electric spark of Calabrian bergamot, a bright yet refined citrus note known for its uniquely floral and slightly peppery zest. Unlike the sharper bergamots of other regions, Calabria’s variety possesses a sun-warmed sweetness, adding a radiant energy to the top notes. This citrusy brilliance is deepened by the delicate yet intoxicating Grasse neroli, distilled from orange blossoms grown in the perfume capital of the world, its honeyed floral essence lending an air of innocence and warmth. Yet this brightness is quickly contrasted with a burst of unexpected fruit—plum, with its velvety juiciness and dark, wine-like sweetness, lingers seductively. 

The exotic, spicy heat of Jamaican pepper ignites the senses, its fiery, clove-like bite adding a bold, aromatic edge. This interplay of citrus, fruit, and spice is softened by a breath of green notes, a crisp and slightly grassy freshness that evokes leaves crushed between the fingers. Then comes the peculiar yet intriguing touch of Chinese quince, a fruit with a tart, almost astringent apple-pear quality, adding both a refreshing and slightly waxy nuance. Finally, a surprising whisper of banana—not the overripe sweetness one might expect, but a delicate, creamy tropical undertone that merges seamlessly with the floral heart to come.

As Brigand evolves, its middle notes unfold in a richly woven tapestry of florals and aromatic greens. Spanish rosemary, fresh yet resinous, introduces an herbaceous sharpness that invigorates the blend, its slightly camphoraceous nature lending a cooling contrast to the spice of the opening. Then, the French carnation emerges—a floral that is both fiery and sophisticated, its peppery, clove-like bite reinforcing the lingering warmth of Jamaican pepper. 

Exotic sensuality blooms in the form of Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, cultivated on the remote Malagasy island of Nossi-Be, where the tropical climate intensifies its narcotic sweetness. This variety of ylang-ylang is particularly rich and creamy, with hints of ripe banana and spicy jasmine, enhancing the earlier banana note. Grasse jasmine, revered for its indolic depth and honeyed richness, melts into the composition, intertwining with the legendary Grasse rose, whose velvety petals impart an opulent, almost honeyed quality—luxurious yet lighthearted, youthful yet undeniably seductive.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal Brigand’s true, rebellious nature. Virginian blonde tobacco, smooth and aromatic, exudes a dry, almost honeyed warmth, conjuring images of sun-cured leaves and smoky, golden embers. The earthy darkness of Indonesian patchouli follows, its rich, damp woodiness deepening the composition with a hint of spiced chocolate and mossy depth. Leather infuses the scent with a supple, animalic quality—raw yet refined, evoking the luxurious texture of well-worn gloves. 

The creamy, resinous allure of Mysore sandalwood, prized for its superior smoothness and lingering, incense-like warmth, adds a milky softness that tempers the sharper elements. Haitian vetiver, known for its drier, slightly nutty and smoky facets, provides an elegant counterbalance, its grassy earthiness grounding the composition. Omani frankincense, one of the world’s most prized resins, introduces a whisper of sacred smoke, its balsamic, lemony essence heightening the mysterious, almost ritualistic aura of Brigand.

Yet it is in the animalic depths that Brigand’s untamed soul is truly revealed. Tonkin musk, rare and legendary, bestows an intoxicating, sensual warmth, its almost human-like softness enhancing the skin’s natural allure. Arabian civet, with its wild, slightly feral muskiness, adds a primal edge, recalling the days when fragrances were bold and unapologetic. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the rugged Alpine forests, brings a deep, forest-floor dampness, reinforcing the fragrance’s chypre character with an air of untamed nature. Finally, the richness of Maltese labdanum and Sumatran styrax, both dark, resinous, and balsamic, wraps Brigand in a final veil of mystery—sweet, smoky, and sensual, a lingering trace of untamed elegance.

Brigand is an audacious dance of contrasts—youthful yet dark, floral yet animalic, smooth yet untamed. It is a fragrance for those who dare to embrace both innocence and rebellion, sweetness and spice, sophistication and raw sensuality.

Product Line:

The Brigand fragrance line by Jacques Esterel offered two main concentrations: parfum and parfum de toilette. The parfum was the most concentrated version, providing a rich and intense experience of the fragrance, ideal for those who wanted a long-lasting and more luxurious scent. It captured the full complexity of Brigand’s spicy, woody chypre composition, with its animalic base and floral heart, making it an indulgent choice for evening wear or special occasions.

The parfum de toilette (equivalent to the modern eau de parfum concentration) was a lighter, yet still potent version of the fragrance. This concentration was more suited for everyday wear, offering a slightly more subtle interpretation of the scent while retaining its bold and rebellious character. The parfum de toilette allowed for easier application and layering without overwhelming the senses, making it a versatile choice for women who wanted to embody Brigand's daring spirit throughout the day. Both options in the product line allowed women to choose their preferred level of intensity, ensuring that Brigand could be worn in various settings and occasions.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

BRIGAND PERFUME BY JACQUES ESTEREL ON EBAY