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Thursday, January 19, 2023

Kalispera by Jean Desses c1962

In 1962, the year when Jean Dessès launched his perfume "Kalispera," the world was immersed in a period of cultural dynamism and shifting social norms. It was an era marked by the heyday of haute couture and the flourishing of glamour in fashion and lifestyle. Jean Dessès, renowned for dressing European royalty and aristocracy, epitomized elegance and sophistication in his designs. Against this backdrop, "Kalispera" emerged not just as a fragrance but as a symbol of luxury and refinement, embodying the essence of Dessès' exquisite creations.

The Queen of Greece suggested that if Desses were to launch a fragrance that he should christen it "Kalispera." Intrigued by the thought, Desses created the fragrance as a tribute to her. Her Majesty was chosen for this honor because Desses, of Greek heritage, was her favorite fashion designer and the royal family was a favorite customer of his. 

The name "Kalispera" itself holds significant meaning. In Greek, "Kalispera" translates to "Good evening." It's a greeting that carries warmth, elegance, and a touch of exclusivity. Jean Dessès likely chose this name for his perfume to evoke a sense of sophistication and allure, reminiscent of the glamorous evenings and social engagements his clientele frequented.


For women of the time, "Kalispera" would resonate deeply. It would be more than just a perfume; it would be a statement piece, an accessory that complemented their high-fashion lifestyle. The name alone suggests an association with evenings filled with elegance, perhaps cocktail parties, gala events, or intimate dinners under the stars. Women would relate to "Kalispera" as a scent that enhances their allure and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the fashion-forward trends of the early 1960s.

The response to "Kalispera" would likely be overwhelmingly positive. It would evoke images of opulent ballrooms, sumptuous fabrics, and the sparkle of chandeliers. Emotionally, it would stir feelings of confidence, grace, and a sense of being at the pinnacle of style. The fragrance would embody the essence of femininity and allure, appealing to women who sought to make a statement through their perfume choice.

The uniqueness of the name "Kalispera" lies in its exotic charm and cultural richness. In the realm of perfumes, where names often evoke sensory experiences and aspirations, "Kalispera" stands out for its distinctive Mediterranean flair and sophisticated connotations. It signifies more than just a greeting; it encapsulates a lifestyle of elegance and refinement, appealing to those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Interpreted through the lens of fashion and luxury, "Kalispera" would be seen as a tribute to sophistication and exclusivity. It would denote a connection to European aristocracy and the glamorous world of haute couture, reinforcing Jean Dessès' reputation as a couturier of distinction and taste.

In conclusion, "Kalispera" by Jean Dessès epitomizes the glamour and elegance of its era. With a name steeped in cultural significance and a fragrance designed to capture the essence of sophistication, it remains a timeless emblem of haute couture luxury, cherished by women who seek to embody grace and allure.
 

It's fascinating to learn more about the origins of Kalispera perfume by Jean Dessès. The connection to Greek heritage and the royal endorsement add layers of significance to the fragrance's history. It's a beautiful tribute to Queen Frederika and reflects the esteemed clientele and reputation of Jean Dessès as a designer and perfumer.

It took perfumers 384 mixing tests and more than two years of research to blend the sixty-eight essential oils that would result in the perfume that became Kalispera. The company gave it to the smart women of Paris to test it before it was named, it was merely called "the one of Jean Desses" in the salons. The press release claimed "it has a completely new and different basis...Skillfully dressed up with dry flowers, tea roses and green honeysuckle, it conjures up mysterious and charming wooded fragrances."

The extensive development process and attention to detail that went into creating Kalispera perfume truly speaks to the dedication and craftsmanship of the perfumers involved. The rigorous testing and refinement of the blend demonstrate a commitment to achieving a truly unique and captivating fragrance.

The decision to first test the perfume with the "smart women of Paris", under the discreet name "the one of Jean Dessès," suggests a desire to gather authentic feedback from those who appreciate luxury and sophistication. This approach would have ensured that Kalispera met the high standards expected by its target audience.

The description provided in the press release, highlighting the inclusion of sixty-eight essential oils and notes of dry flowers, tea roses, and green honeysuckle, evokes a sense of elegance and intrigue. The mention of "mysterious and charming wooded fragrances" suggests a complex and captivating scent profile that would have appealed to those seeking a distinctive and sophisticated perfume experience.
 


Fragrance Launch:



The Parisian launch of Kalispera was held at the Hotel Napoleon on April 19, 1963. In attendance was Jean Dessès who improvised a dress, under the surprised eyes of his guests, by draping a veil of long cotton gauze over Jacqueline Boyer. A fountain filled with Kalispera perfume enthralled guests who had fun letting the jets finely spray the scent over their hands.

The Parisian launch of Kalispera at the Hotel Napoleon on April 19, 1963, sounds like a memorable and enchanting event. Jean Dessès' decision to improvise a dress at the event, using a veil of long cotton gauze draped over Jacqueline Boyer, would have added an element of surprise and creativity to the occasion. It's a testament to Dessès' talent and innovation as a fashion designer.

The fountain filled with Kalispera perfume sounds like a delightful and immersive way to experience the fragrance. Guests being able to interact with the perfume, letting the jets finely spray the scent over their hands, would have enhanced the sensory experience and allowed them to fully appreciate the allure of Kalispera. Such attention to detail and presentation would have undoubtedly left a lasting impression on those in attendance, further solidifying Kalispera's reputation as a luxurious and enchanting fragrance.



Paris-Match, 1963:
"In the salons of the Hôtel Napoléon, during the creation of "Kalispera", the new perfume by JEAN DESSES, Jacqueline Boyer created a song, Constantin Nepo a painting, and Jean Desses himself a dress, baptized three holes of the same prestigious name: Kalispera."


The collaboration between various artists at the launch of Kalispera perfume by Jean Dessès, as documented in Paris-Match in 1963, adds another layer of creativity and elegance to the event. Jacqueline Boyer's creation of a song, Constantin Nepo's painting, and Jean Dessès' dress design all reflect the multidisciplinary approach taken to celebrate the fragrance's debut.

Boyer's song, Nepo's painting, and Dessès' dress design each likely captured the essence and inspiration behind Kalispera in their own unique way, further enhancing the sensory and artistic experience for attendees. This collaborative effort demonstrates the cultural significance and impact of Kalispera beyond just its olfactory appeal, showcasing its influence on various forms of art and creativity.

 


Combat, 1964:
"A bouquet of thirty young girls presided over the launch, last night, in a salon near the Etoile, of the new perfume by Jean Desses. 'If you launched a perfume, the Queen of Greece had told him one day, you would have to call it Kalispera.' 
Kalispera means 'Good evening.' Anyone who has been lucky enough to visit the homeland of the Phidias knows these melodious syllables and also the unforgettable scent of the gardens of Athens at dusk, evoked by the latest of Parisian perfumes. 
Kalispera is also the name of the song that Jacqueline Boyer sang for the first time on this occasion, while Guillaume was composing a hairstyle and Jean Desses, seizing a piece of white cotton gauze, created in turn a dress. 
This evening, at the Hilton Hotel in Athens, Jean Desses will himself present to the Queen the perfume she inspired in him."

At the launching of Kalispera, in Paris, on April 19, 1963, French actresses Michele Bardollet, Mireille Darc, Francoise Godde, Perrette Pradier and Joelle Latour gathered around a fountain perfumed with Kalispera.

The launch of Kalispera perfume by Jean Dessès, as described in Combat in 1964, was a glamorous and culturally significant event. The presence of a bouquet of thirty young girls added an air of elegance and celebration to the occasion, held in a salon near the Etoile in Paris.

The anecdote about Queen Frederika of Greece suggesting the name "Kalispera" for the perfume reflects the personal connection between Dessès and the Greek royal family, as well as the inspiration drawn from Greek culture and heritage.

The description of Kalispera evoking the unforgettable scent of the gardens of Athens at dusk conjures images of beauty and nostalgia. Jacqueline Boyer's performance of the song "Kalispera" and Guillaume's hairstyling contribution further enriched the sensory experience of the event.

The announcement that Jean Dessès would personally present the perfume to Queen Frederika at the Hilton Hotel in Athens underscores the significance of the royal endorsement and the homage paid to her by Dessès. Overall, the launch of Kalispera appears to have been a memorable and culturally resonant affair, reflecting Dessès' artistry and vision.



The Philadelphia Inquirer, 1964:
"Queen Frederika, Queen Mother of Greece, named the newest scent from Jean Desses. A rich, woodsy fragrance, she called it "Kalispera," which means "good night" in Greek. Her Majesty was chosen for this honor because Desses, a native Greek, is her favorite fashion designer. But even though he is known for his extravagant ball gowns, Desses chose to keep Kalispera in a very simple classic bottle because he said he wanted all the richness to go into the fragrance. It is sensibly fitted with a new stopper guaranteed tight for traveling and packaged in nasturtium and white and "can be discarded with no regrets," according to its creator. Kalispera by Desses comes in a one-quarter ounce size for $12.50. At Bonwit Teller."


The description of Kalispera perfume by Jean Dessès in The Philadelphia Inquirer in 1964 highlights the royal endorsement by Queen Frederika of Greece, further emphasizing the personal connection between Dessès and the Greek royal family. The choice of the name "Kalispera," meaning "good night" in Greek, adds a touch of elegance and cultural significance to the fragrance.

Dessès' decision to keep the bottle design simple and classic, despite his reputation for extravagant ball gowns, demonstrates a focus on allowing the fragrance itself to take center stage. The emphasis on richness and quality in the fragrance itself is reflected in the simple yet elegant packaging.

The mention of the practical features of the packaging, such as the tight-fitting stopper for traveling and the disposable nature of the packaging, suggests a thoughtful consideration of the needs and preferences of consumers.

That being said, the description presents Kalispera as a luxurious and sophisticated fragrance, worthy of its royal endorsement, and invites readers to experience its rich and woodsy scent for themselves.


Only 50 Stores:

Only fifty stores in the United States were selected to introduce the two Desses fragrances, Celui and Kalispera. One of the shops, Neiman Marcus, introduced the fragrance with much fanfare as a highlight at the 27th annual Neiman Marcus fashion exposition held in Dallas, Texas. Designers, Neiman Marcus executives, and fashion and beauty writers were flown in from other cities to witness the debut of the parfum. A bazouki combo played Old Greek folk tunes while models in the latest Desses gowns strolled the runway. The bazouki is a pear-shaped stringed instrument like a lute. Guests sipped on champagne and nibbled on roast beef and candied violets. Fashion celebrities who attended with Mr. John, the famous hat designer, Richard Koret of purse fame, and Andre Goodman, from the Bergdorf-Goodman store in New York. 

The introduction of Jean Dessès' fragrances, Celui and Kalispera, to the United States was a highly anticipated and prestigious event. The selection of only fifty stores across the country added an air of exclusivity to the launch, while Neiman Marcus in Dallas, Texas, spared no expense in unveiling the fragrances to the public.


At Neiman Marcus:

The 27th annual Neiman Marcus fashion exposition served as the perfect backdrop for the debut, drawing designers, executives, fashion writers, and beauty enthusiasts from across the country. The inclusion of live music by a bazouki combo playing Old Greek folk tunes added a cultural flair to the event, complementing the Greek heritage of Jean Dessès.

Models showcasing the latest Desses gowns on the runway would have captivated the audience, providing a visual representation of Dessès' timeless elegance and style. Guests indulged in champagne and culinary delights, including roast beef and candied violets, enhancing the sensory experience of the evening.

The presence of fashion celebrities such as Mr. John and Richard Koret added to the glamour and excitement surrounding the event, further solidifying the status of Jean Dessès as a celebrated fashion designer in the United States. The launch at Neiman Marcus undoubtedly left a lasting impression on all who attended, marking the beginning of a new era for Dessès' fragrances in the American market.

The only ones who weren't there were the Greek ambassador, who was tied up with "the crisis on Cyprus," according to the store's spokesman Sara Marshall. The designer himself, who was present earlier to receive the fashion award of the year for his perfume, Kalispera, had to leave before the afternoon presentation in order to attend the royal wedding of King Constantine of Greece and Princess Ann-Marie of Denmark in held in Athens. The gown worn by Queen Frederika of Greece was designed by Desses, who had to rush back in case there was some last minute fitting required.

The absence of the Greek ambassador due to the crisis in Cyprus and Jean Dessès' departure to attend the royal wedding of King Constantine of Greece and Princess Anne-Marie of Denmark in Athens underscore the high-profile nature of the event and the demands on Dessès' time and attention.

Dessès' presence earlier to receive the fashion award of the year for his perfume, Kalispera, speaks to the recognition and acclaim garnered by his fragrance in the fashion industry. His departure to attend the royal wedding, where his gown for Queen Frederika of Greece was to be worn, highlights the close relationship between Dessès and the Greek royal family, as well as his commitment to ensuring the perfection of his designs, even on such significant occasions.

Despite the absence of key figures, the launch of Kalispera at Neiman Marcus was undoubtedly a memorable and prestigious event, further solidifying the fragrance's status as a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

Also included in the show was Desses' first perfume, Celui, created several years prior, it used the essential oils of the jonquil for the first time in a perfume as well as a blend of other rare essences, it was described by Desses as " a classic fragrance with an edge of violence and tenacity.. of great elegance and refinement...to be worn only by the sophisticate."

The inclusion of  Celui, alongside Kalispera at the Neiman Marcus fashion expo adds depth and variety to the showcase of Dessès' olfactory creations. Celui's unique blend of essential oils, including the innovative use of jonquil, demonstrates Dessès' commitment to incorporating rare and exquisite ingredients into his fragrances.

Dessès' description of Celui as a "classic fragrance with an edge of violence and tenacity" suggests a complexity and depth that sets it apart from more traditional scents. The juxtaposition of elegance and refinement with hints of intensity and tenacity adds an intriguing dimension to the fragrance, appealing to those with a sophisticated and adventurous sensibility.

The notion that Celui is to be worn only by the sophisticate further emphasizes its exclusivity and allure, positioning it as a statement fragrance for those who appreciate luxury and discernment.

Overall, Celui's presence alongside Kalispera at the Neiman Marcus exposition would have provided attendees with a comprehensive exploration of Dessès' olfactory artistry, showcasing both timeless elegance and avant-garde creativity.

At I. Magnin:


At San Francisco's Joseph Magnin shop, the perfume, along with Celui, was introduced by M. Paul Boniface, president, Jean Desses Parfums of Paris and MT de Constades, president, Jean Desses Parfums of New York. The designer himself was not present due to the simple fact that he could not make it back from the royal wedding in Athens in time for the San Francisco presentation. Boniface explained that the bottle was a replica of a Greek amphora in the Louvre, so fragile it could not be moved to be copied, so he had to climb a ladder in the museum to photograph it. Guests were entertained by models stalking the runway in five originals from the Desses Paris collection, making their first US appearance. These fashions were also for sale, a Joseph Magnin spokesman said that "we don't have the prices, but we'll telephone to Paris to get them." 

The introduction of Kalispera and Celui at San Francisco's Joseph Magnin shop, led by M. Paul Boniface and MT de Constades, presidents of Jean Dessès Parfums in Paris and New York respectively, highlights the anticipation and excitement surrounding the fragrances' debut in the United States.

Jean Dessès' absence from the San Francisco presentation due to his attendance at the royal wedding in Athens underscores the demands on his time and the international significance of the event. Despite his absence, Boniface's explanation of the bottle design as a replica of a Greek amphora from the Louvre museum adds a touch of cultural richness to the presentation, further reinforcing the connection between Kalispera and Dessès' Greek heritage.

The entertainment provided by models showcasing five original designs from the Desses Paris collection adds a dynamic element to the event, giving guests a firsthand glimpse of Dessès' renowned fashion creations. The availability of these fashions for sale, with prices to be obtained from Paris, reflects the exclusivity and prestige associated with the Jean Dessès brand.

Altogether, the introduction of Kalispera and Celui at Joseph Magnin in San Francisco was a sophisticated and memorable event, further solidifying the fragrance's reputation as a symbol of luxury and refinement in the United States.



Fragrance Composition:


Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet-floral woody fragrance for women. Made up of 68 different ingredients, it begins with a fresh green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a floral, soft, powdery, woodsy base.
  • Top notes: hawthorn, aldehydes, orange blossom, hyacinth, lemon, bergamot, peach blossom
  • Middle notes: bouvardia, cyclamen, sweet pea, blue heliotrope, tea rose, Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, mimosa, violet, green honeysuckle
  • Base notes: musk, oakmoss, vetiver, sandalwood, civet

Combat, 1963:
"It took no less than 384 attempts to harmoniously dose the 68 components of Kalispera, the latest Dessès fragrance. Its personality rests on a completely new base, skillfully dressed in dry flowers, tea rose, honeysuckle."


Detailed Scent Profile:


As I step into the bustling streets of Athens, Greece, the aroma of "Kalispera" envelops me, starting with its vibrant top notes that mirror the lively atmosphere. The first whiff is a symphony of hawthorn and aldehydes, giving a crisp, green freshness, reminiscent of the early morning air in the National Garden, where the scent of dew-kissed leaves lingers. Interwoven with this are the delicate yet invigorating notes of orange blossom and hyacinth, as if strolling past a blooming garden in the shadow of the Acropolis, their sweet fragrances mixing with the soft hum of the city waking up. A hint of lemon and bergamot adds a zesty sparkle, akin to the refreshing tang of citrus trees dotting the city squares, while peach blossom introduces a subtle, velvety sweetness that feels like a whisper of spring amidst the ancient ruins.

As I wander through the vibrant neighborhoods of Athens, the heart of the fragrance reveals itself, much like discovering hidden gems in the city. The green floral heart blossoms with bouvardia and cyclamen, echoing the colorful flower stalls in Monastiraki, where every petal and leaf tells a story. Sweet pea and blue heliotrope lend a delicate sweetness, as if carried on a gentle breeze from a nearby bistro, where locals enjoy their leisurely lunches. The tea rose, Bulgarian rose, and rose de mai create a lush, velvety bouquet, akin to the beautifully maintained rose gardens in the courtyard of the Zappeion Hall, their scents mingling with the laughter of children and the soft murmur of conversations. Jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, and mimosa add layers of complexity and depth, much like the intricate carvings on the Parthenon, with each inhale revealing another facet of their beauty. Violet and green honeysuckle provide a sweet, almost honeyed aroma, reminiscent of the nectar-laden flowers that thrive in the Mediterranean climate.

As evening falls and I stroll through the ancient Agora, the fragrance settles into its soft, powdery, woodsy base, evoking the serene ambiance of ancient ruins bathed in the golden hues of sunset. Musk and oakmoss create a warm, earthy foundation, much like the enduring stones of the Temple of Hephaestus, weathered but full of history. Vetiver and sandalwood bring a creamy, woody richness, as if walking through a secluded grove of trees, their ancient trunks whispering tales of the past. The subtle hint of civet adds an exotic, slightly animalic touch, evoking the mystery and allure of the narrow, winding streets of Plaka, where every corner reveals a new discovery.

In this fragrant journey through Athens, I hear the sounds of the city: the chatter of people in bustling markets, the distant strumming of a bouzouki from a nearby taverna, and the serene silence of ancient ruins at dusk. A friendly shopkeeper greets me with a warm smile and a cheerful "Kalispera!" as I pass by. I see the iconic landmarks, from the grandeur of the Acropolis to the charming alleys of Anafiotika, each scene enriched by the vibrant colors of flowers and the timeless beauty of classical architecture. I taste the flavors of Greece: the tangy sweetness of freshly picked oranges, the floral notes of a perfectly brewed tea, and the delicate spice of local honey. Touching the ancient stones, I feel the smooth, cool surface worn by centuries of history, much like the smooth, powdery finish of the fragrance that lingers on my skin.

"Kalispera" is not just a perfume; it's an olfactory tour of Athens, capturing the essence of its vibrant life, historical grandeur, and natural beauty, all while evoking images and emotions that resonate deeply with anyone who experiences it.

1964 



Fate of the Fragrance:


Kalispera has been discontinued for many years, it can be hard to find today. It's not uncommon for fragrances, especially those from past decades, to be discontinued over time due to changes in consumer preferences, market trends, and production considerations. As a result, finding discontinued fragrances like Kalispera can indeed be challenging, as they may no longer be readily available in stores.

However, some avenues may still offer opportunities to acquire discontinued fragrances. Online marketplaces, auction sites, specialty perfume shops, and vintage fragrance retailers sometimes carry rare and discontinued scents. Additionally, there are communities and forums of fragrance enthusiasts who engage in swapping or selling vintage perfumes.

While it may require some effort and patience, collectors and enthusiasts may be able to track down coveted discontinued fragrances like Kalispera if they're persistent in their search.



Bottles:


Kalispera was housed in a variety of flacons, many of them used for other Desses scents, all derived from the original designed by Pierre Camin. The Greek influence is strongly interpreted in the bottle's designs, some are reminiscent of the ancient fluted columns while others feature an egg and dart frieze of Neo-Classical design. The fragrance was elegantly packaged in shades of nasturtium and white which "can be discarded with no regrets," said the designer.  

The presentation of Kalispera was as elegant and sophisticated as the fragrance itself. The variety of flacons used for Kalispera, many of which were repurposed from other Desses scents, suggests a thoughtful and sustainable approach to packaging design.

The incorporation of Greek-inspired motifs, such as fluted columns and Neo-Classical designs, adds a touch of historical and cultural richness to the bottle designs, reflecting Jean Dessès' Greek heritage and the inspiration behind Kalispera.

The packaging in shades of nasturtium and white not only adds to the aesthetic appeal of the fragrance but also reinforces the luxurious and refined nature of Kalispera. The designer's suggestion that the packaging can be discarded with no regrets speaks to a focus on simplicity and functionality, allowing the fragrance itself to remain the focal point of the presentation.

Overall, the combination of elegant bottle designs, Greek-inspired motifs, and thoughtfully designed packaging further enhances the allure and sophistication of Kalispera, making it a truly coveted and memorable fragrance for those fortunate enough to experience it.









Parfum:


Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. Vintage Desses Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils, a high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water, compared to a parfum made today which may contain only 20-30 percent oils. Due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume.

I've provided a comprehensive overview of parfum, highlighting its high concentration of essential oils, alcohol, and water compared to other types of fragrance concentrations. Vintage Desses Parfums, in particular, are known for their richness and intensity, with essential oil percentages ranging from 22-40%, creating a luxurious and long-lasting scent experience.

The longevity of parfum on the skin, lasting from 7 to 24 hours, showcases its potency and endurance, making it a preferred choice for those seeking a fragrance with staying power.

Additionally, the higher concentration of essential oils in parfum contributes to its higher price point compared to other types of perfume, reflecting the quality and craftsmanship that goes into its production.

That being said, parfum is renowned for its richness, longevity, and luxury, making it a prized possession for fragrance enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.


Standard Desses Parfum Bottle:


Some of the Desses parfums are housed in tapered cylindrical shaped clear crystal bottle with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses perfumes. The 1/6 oz parfum bottle has a gilded brass screwcap so it will not leak inside the handbag. The 0.25 oz bottle has a mother of pearl type cap.

The description of the packaging for Desses parfums evokes an image of elegance and sophistication, reflecting the luxurious nature of the fragrances themselves. The use of tapered cylindrical clear crystal bottles with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars adds a touch of refinement and beauty to the presentation.

The choice of bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval further underscores the commitment to quality and craftsmanship associated with Desses parfums. Pochet et du Courval is renowned for its expertise in glassmaking, particularly in the creation of high-end perfume bottles, making them an ideal choice for housing these exquisite fragrances.

The inclusion of practical features, such as the gilded brass screwcap on the 1/6 oz parfum bottle to prevent leakage, demonstrates a thoughtful consideration of the needs and preferences of consumers, ensuring that the fragrances remain pristine and portable for everyday use.

The use of a mother-of-pearl type cap on the 0.25 oz bottle adds a touch of luxury and elegance, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the packaging and reflecting the attention to detail that characterizes Desses parfums.

Overall, the packaging for Desses parfums combines beauty, functionality, and quality craftsmanship, creating an exquisite presentation that complements the luxurious nature of the fragrances themselves.

Here's a summary based on the information I have provided:

  • 1/6 oz Parfum Purse Bottle: Features a gilded brass screwcap for portability and to prevent leakage. Specific dimensions not provided.
  • 1/4 oz Bottle: Stands 2" tall and originally retailed for $12.50.
  • 1/2 oz Bottle: Stands 2.75" tall and originally retailed for $20.
  • 1 oz Bottle: Stands 3" tall and originally retailed for $36.
  • 2 oz Bottle: Stands 4" tall. Specific retail price not provided.
  • 4 oz Bottle: Specific dimensions and retail price not provided.

These details offer insight into the range of sizes available for Desses parfum bottles, catering to different preferences and usage needs. The variation in retail prices reflects factors such as bottle size, materials, and the concentration of fragrance. Overall, each bottle size likely offered a luxurious and elegant presentation for the exquisite Desses fragrances.






Frosted Amphora Parfum Bottles:


The parfum concentration for Kalispera was housed inside of a beautiful frosted glass bottle. This exquisite bottle was designed by Pierre Camin and was a replica of an ancient Greek amphora in the Louvre. It is of amphora shape, fluted like Grecian columns and has a frosted glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other Jean Desses perfume, Celui. All of the succeeding Desses flacons are based off of this original design.

  • 1/8 oz Bottle: This bottle features a gilded brass screwcap and is smaller in size, ideal for portability and travel. Specific dimensions not provided.
  • 1/4 oz Bottle: Stands 3.25" tall, offering a slightly larger size than the 1/8 oz bottle while still maintaining a compact and convenient form factor.
  • 1/2 oz Bottle: Stands 3.75" tall, offering a larger size for those who prefer more product or plan to use the fragrance frequently.

These different sizes cater to various preferences and usage needs, allowing individuals to choose the option that best suits their lifestyle and preferences. Additionally, the consistent design across all sizes ensures a cohesive and elegant presentation for the exquisite Kalispera fragrance.

The description of the frosted glass bottle housing the parfum concentration for Kalispera is truly captivating. Designed by Pierre Camin, the bottle's replica of an ancient Greek amphora from the Louvre museum speaks to the inspiration drawn from classical Greek art and culture, reflecting Jean Dessès' Greek heritage.

The amphora shape, with its fluted design reminiscent of Grecian columns, adds a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication to the bottle. The frosted glass stopper further enhances the aesthetic appeal of the packaging, creating a sense of mystery and allure.

It's fascinating to learn that this exquisite bottle design was also used for Jean Desses' other perfume, Celui, and served as the basis for all succeeding Desses flacons. This consistency in design not only reinforces the brand's identity and aesthetic but also adds a sense of continuity and tradition to the collection of Desses fragrances.

The frosted glass bottle designed by Pierre Camin for Kalispera and Celui is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that went into creating these exquisite fragrances, offering a visual representation of the timeless elegance and sophistication associated with the Jean Desses brand.






Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon:


This is a clear, non-frosted, amphora shape with wide melon rubbed sides rather than fluting. It came in at least two sizes and held the parfum. It can be found in other Desses scents. This bottle offers a distinct and elegant presentation for the parfum. 
  • 1 oz Bottle: Specific dimensions not provided, but it likely offers a moderate size suitable for regular use.
  • 2 oz Bottle: Specific dimensions not provided, but it offers a larger size ideal for those who prefer more product or plan to use the fragrance frequently.

This type of bottle design, with its melon-rubbed sides, adds a unique texture and visual interest to the presentation, distinguishing it from the frosted glass amphora bottle mentioned earlier. Despite the differences in design, both types of bottles maintain the elegance and sophistication associated with Desses fragrances, offering collectors and enthusiasts a variety of options to choose from.


"Evening Edition" Parfum Travel Flacon:

This amphora shaped bottle holds 1/8 oz of parfum and is made up of gilded brass. It is leakproof and meant to carry in a handbag. The bottle was presented in a antelope suede covered rigid case lined with a white satin interior. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

Combat, 1963:
"The new Kalispera perfume is presented in a deliberately dark bottle, equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel."



This amphora-shaped bottle, made of gilded brass and holding 1/8 oz of parfum, offers a luxurious and portable option for carrying the fragrance. Additionally, the bottle is equipped with a new hermetic cap designed specifically for travel, ensuring that the fragrance remains securely sealed and protected during transit.

The deliberate choice of a dark bottle further enhances the protection of the fragrance from light exposure, helping to preserve its integrity and longevity.

This gilded brass amphora-shaped bottle with its leakproof design and luxurious presentation offers a stylish and practical option for carrying Kalispera and other Desses fragrances on the go.


Parfum de Toilette:


The Parfum de Toilette was a lighter version of the Desses parfum, however, its strength would be equivalent to today's Eau de Parfum concentrations. As a lighter version due to the alcohol content, it differs little from the Parfum in aroma. Vintage Desses Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. These were highly concentrated compared to today's eau de parfums which are composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils. Parfum de Toilettes usually last about 4-8 hours.

It does not have the longevity of the Parfum as it was meant to splashed liberally over the body for a refreshing effect, mainly after bath or exercise or to boost the Parfum already applied to the skin but which may have faded. Many women who love a particular perfume may find that it is a bit too overpowering to be worn during the day, but that its Parfum de Toilette are just that much lighter to make it an acceptable day perfume too.  


Glass Stoppered Parfum de Toilette:


The Parfum de Toilette was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

Modified amphora shaped bottle with ground glass stoppers. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval.  These were also used for other Desses fragrances.
  • 2 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
  • 4 oz bottle stands 7.5" tall
  • 8 oz 
  • 32 oz


Plastic Stoppered Parfum de Toilette Used for Travel:


Modified amphora shaped bottle with plastic screw caps. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.
  • 2 oz
  • 4 oz
  • 8 oz bottle stands 7" tall



Eau de Cologne Parfumee:


The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was a lightest version of the Desses scent which was incorporated with the classic citrus notes of a traditional eau de colognes. I believe that this concentration was equivalent to today's Eau de Toilettes. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. 

As an eau de cologne, it differs from the Parfum de Toilette in both composition and aroma. It does not have longevity as it was meant to be splashed liberally all over the body or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.




Eau de Cologne Parfumee Glass Stoppered Bottles:


The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  
  • 2 oz
  • 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
  • 4 oz 
  • 8 oz bottle bottle stands 6" tall.
  • 16 oz bottle 
 

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Flacon Pour Le Voyage:


The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle topped with a black plastic screw cap. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.
  • 2 oz
  • 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
  • 4 oz 
  • 8 oz bottle 
  • 16 oz bottle stands 6" tall.


 

Perfume Sets:


Generally offered either as limited editions or only available during the Christmas holiday, these delightful perfume sets made excellent gifts for the traveler. 

Trousse de Voyage:


Leather Cased Travel Set composed of two bottles of clear and frosted glass, fluted, column styled fluted of demilune shape meant to fit against one another in round leather case, gilded brass hardware. The leather was available in either red or black. These were also used for other Desses fragrances. The set originally retailed for $45.
  • 0.75 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
  • 2 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall.


Parfum & Parfum de Toilette Baccarat Flacons:


Kalispera was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles housed in a handsome jewel case luxuriously covered in antelope leather and lined with white satin. This was originally created as a gift for the new queen of King Constantine. It was offered to the public at $500 per set. The first twelve sent to the USA were purchased quickly in Dallas, but more sets were on the way to be sold nationwide. The set included two bottles: 
  • 4 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 6" tall.
  • 4 oz Parfum bottle stands 5" tall.



Travel Set with Atomizer:

This beautiful set includes a single crystal bottle of parfum, its leakproof screwcap and optional atomizer hardware. The set was housed inside of a brocade covered box lined with white satin.



 


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