Or Noir by Pascal Morabito c1980

"Or Noir" by Parfums Pascal Morabito is a classic fragrance from the 1980s, known for its luxurious and mysterious scent. Composed by perfumer Sébastien Martin, it gained popularity particularly in the USA in 1981, becoming a favorite among those who appreciated its rich and sophisticated aroma. The name "Or Noir," which translates to "Black Gold," suggests a sense of opulence and allure, fitting for the era it emerged in.

Pascal Morabito never liked perfume and always asked the young women he was dating not to wear any fragrance when they went out with him. "But, girls like to be perfumed, you know, and finally, one told me that if I wanted to continue to go out with her I had better find - or make - some perfume that she could wear.". He answered that ultimatum and the creation of Or Noir resulted in marriage to that girlfriend, Carol, as well as the beginning of another successful business venture.

The name Or Noir came about because Morabito loved "black and gold together".

It's intriguing to learn that Morabito, despite not being fond of perfumes himself, found inspiration in his personal life to create a fragrance that would satisfy his girlfriend's request. The name "Or Noir," reflecting Morabito's appreciation for the combination of black and gold, adds another layer of significance to the perfume's identity. It's remarkable how this venture not only led to a successful fragrance but also to a marriage and further business success. It's a testament to the power of love and creativity intertwining in unexpected ways.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a radiant precious floral heart, resting on a feminine sensual woody base.

A floral mélange of violet, jasmine, rose and ylang ylang, Tonga spices and fruit essences -tangerine, blackcurrant, with Mysore sandalwood to ensure a long lasting scent.

• Top notes: tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, mandarin, clary sage
• Middle notes: narcissus, gardenia, ylang ylang, violet, jasmine, lily of the valley, may rose, lilac, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, Tonga clove, cedar, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, musk, amber, oakmoss

 

 "Or Noir" is  a complex and luxurious fragrance, with a combination of floral, fruity, and woody notes that create a multi-dimensional scent experience. Let's break down its olfactory profile:

Top Notes: The opening of the fragrance is bright and invigorating, with the freshness of tangerine, blackcurrant, bergamot, and mandarin combined with the sparkle of aldehydes and the floral sweetness of neroli and clary sage.

Middle Notes: The heart of "Or Noir" reveals a rich bouquet of precious florals, including jasmine, rose, violet, ylang-ylang, and lily of the valley, complemented by the narcotic scent of narcissus and the delicate aroma of lilac and orris.

Base Notes: The fragrance settles into a warm and sensual base, featuring notes of patchouli, vanilla, cedar, vetiver, and Mysore sandalwood, which provide depth and longevity. Tonga clove adds a spicy twist, while musk, amber, and oakmoss contribute to the overall richness and sophistication of the scent.

Overall, "Or Noir" exudes femininity and elegance, with its harmonious blend of floral, fruity, and woody accords, making it a timeless and captivating fragrance choice for women.

Bottle:

Morabito believed that the container should be especially important as the juice, because he said "I am a jeweler, and it would not be appropriate simply to have some kind of crystal bottle. I felt the bottle should be like a piece of jewelry."

Pascal Morabito envisioned the bottle to resemble one of his greatest achievements, the thinnest electronic watch ever made, which debuted in 1976. It was this slim, geometric shape that inspired his bottle for Or Noir.

The sumptuous flacon features four onyx beads inset on 24 kt gold plated brass framed crystal, the square bottle fitted with a porthole to see the juice inside. Each bottle was signed and numbered, the purchaser received a golden card, listing the bottle number, that entitled the bearer to buy refills of the perfume at $75 a half ounce. Each limited edition flacon retailed for $295 per half ounce of parfum in 1981, by 1982, this price had gone down to $250, due to the fact that "it's easier to import now." said Patricia Toll, manager of the American branch of Reflets de Paris in Beverly Hills. She said it was the shop's most expensive perfume and revealed that "It's bought mostly by men as gifts for women."

Morabito stated that in Paris, 1980, he started out with 1000 bottles, and surprisingly, they were "gone in a month." At the end of the year, he sold 3,500 bottles at 1000 francs for one half ounce. He credits most of that success to the bottle itself, which he calls a "collector's item."

The perfume was available in limited quantities in his shops exclusively, until Saks Fifth Avenue persuaded him to agree to distribution in their states side stores. As a result, only 200 bottles were available in the USA in 1981.



Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris - Issues 782-784, 1993:

"Pascal Morabito's "Or Noir" is more than a large, flowery, fruity, woody fragrance. His "Prestige" bottle, art object created by the jeweler himself, will seduce you (about 400 to 990 F.)"

Or Noir was available in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
• 0.5 oz Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $295 in 1981)
• 1 oz Parfum Splash 

• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

• 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

• 2 oz Eau de Parfum Splash

Marketing - Volume 17, 1984:

"French company Pascal Morabito has introduced Or Black for men and Or Noir for women to the UK, with prices starting at £70 for 100ml eau de toilette of Or Black and £115 for a half ounce of Or Noir."

Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris - Issues 782-784, 1993:

"Collectible: Perfect balance between heady notes and fresh accords. Or Noir by Pascal Morabito is more than a "great flowery, fruity, woody perfume." Its "Prestige" bottle, an art object created by the jeweler himself, will seduce you (around 400 to 990 F)."

The attention to detail and craftsmanship in both the fragrance and its presentation truly reflect Pascal Morabito's background as a jeweler and his commitment to creating luxury experiences. The bottle design, inspired by his groundbreaking electronic watch, showcases his dedication to marrying form and function.

The sumptuous flacon, adorned with onyx beads and 24 kt gold plated brass framed crystal, exudes opulence and sophistication. The inclusion of a porthole to view the perfume inside adds a touch of intrigue and elegance.

The limited edition and numbered bottles, accompanied by a golden card, further enhance the exclusivity of "Or Noir," making it not just a perfume but a coveted collector's item. The pricing strategy, with refills available at a premium, adds to the perception of luxury and prestige associated with the fragrance.

The decision to initially offer the perfume exclusively in Morabito's shops, followed by distribution in prestigious stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, speaks to the brand's desire to maintain a sense of exclusivity while also expanding its reach to a wider audience.

Altogether, the success of "Or Noir" can be attributed not only to its exquisite fragrance but also to its meticulously crafted presentation, which embodies the essence of luxury and sophistication.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It's interesting to note that "Or Noir" was discontinued around 1993/1994 but later reformulated and relaunched in 2014. This resurgence speaks to the enduring appeal and legacy of the fragrance, as well as the continued demand for its unique scent profile.

The relaunch likely aimed to reintroduce the beloved fragrance to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts while also catering to existing fans who cherished its original essence. Reformulations often involve adjusting ingredients to comply with regulations, improving performance, or modernizing the scent to align with contemporary tastes while preserving its core identity.

For fans of the original "Or Noir," the relaunch would have been an exciting opportunity to reconnect with a beloved scent or discover it for the first time. It also reflects the timeless quality of the fragrance, which continues to captivate and inspire even after decades since its inception.