Or Noir by Pascal Morabito c1980

Or Noir by Parfums Pascal Morabito, launched in 1980, marked the entry of Pascal Morabito, a Parisian jeweler, into the world of perfumery. Known for his refined aesthetic and innovative designs, Morabito brought a jeweler’s precision to his fragrance line. The name "Or Noir," which translates from French as "Black Gold," reflects Morabito's passion for the striking contrast between black and gold, a pairing that he frequently employed in his jewelry designs. Pronounced "Or Nwahr", "Or Noir" evokes a sense of mystery, luxury, and allure, much like a dark, precious gemstone. For women in 1980, the name "Or Noir" likely conjured an image of opulence and seduction—a blend of elegance and intrigue that was deeply appealing in a fragrance.

"Or Noir" embodies Morabito's visual taste in olfactory form. Created by perfumer Sébastien Martin, the fragrance is classified as a soft floral. It opens with fresh aldehydic notes, lending brightness and an almost sparkling quality. The heart reveals a bouquet of floral scents, including violet, jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, creating an impression of precious, radiant flowers. This floral layer is enriched by warm notes of Tonga spices, complemented by the fruity essences of tangerine and blackcurrant. Finally, a base of Mysore sandalwood adds depth and longevity to the fragrance, wrapping the composition in a soft, woody sensuality. Through this blend, "Or Noir" is interpreted as an experience both luxurious and feminine.

The early 1980s, when "Or Noir" debuted, saw a rising trend in fragrances that leaned toward rich, complex compositions with lasting power. Yet, while the market was dominated by bold, heavy scents—such as the oriental and chypre fragrances that were in vogue—"Or Noir" stood out for its harmonious balance of floral and woody elements, making it sophisticated and wearable while still indulgently rich.

Interestingly, Pascal Morabito, despite his venture into perfume, initially held little fondness for fragrance, even asking his romantic partners to avoid wearing it on their dates. However, when one partner, Carol, insisted that if he wanted her to wear perfume, he’d have to create one she would love, Morabito rose to the challenge. The creation of "Or Noir" not only led to the launch of his fragrance line but also won Carol's heart, eventually resulting in their marriage. Thus, "Or Noir" symbolized not only Morabito's expansion into fragrance but also his ability to bridge his love of design with the world of scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a radiant precious floral heart, resting on a feminine sensual woody base.

A floral mélange of violet, jasmine, rose and ylang ylang, Tonga spices and fruit essences -tangerine, blackcurrant, with Mysore sandalwood to ensure a long lasting scent.

• Top notes: tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, mandarin, clary sage
• Middle notes: narcissus, gardenia, ylang ylang, violet, jasmine, lily of the valley, may rose, lilac, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, Tonga clove, cedar, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, musk, amber, oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

Or Noir opens with a luminous top that dances with fresh aldehydes, a crystalline and sparkling quality that feels like crisp morning air, slightly tinged with frost. The aldehydes bring an elegant shimmer, complemented by the juicy, sunlit sweetness of tangerine and mandarin. Each citrus note has its distinct character: the tangerine is sweeter and more rounded, while the mandarin offers a slight, refreshing tang. 

Blackcurrant deepens the top notes with a velvety richness, adding a hint of tartness that teases the senses like ripe berries freshly crushed. Neroli brings a clean, slightly green floral nuance, while the earthy sweetness of clary sage balances the brightness, weaving an aromatic edge into the freshness of the opening.

As the fragrance settles, it blossoms into a radiant floral heart, where each bloom adds to the tapestry of elegance. The ylang ylang feels exotic and lush, its banana-like sweetness enveloping the bouquet with a warm, creamy depth. Jasmine’s honeyed, sensual notes emerge next, as though unfurling delicate white petals, and merge seamlessly with violet, whose powdery softness adds a gentle, vintage touch. 

May rose follows, lending a plush richness, with its soft, velvety petals breathing a timeless romance. Lily of the valley introduces a touch of fresh, green innocence, while narcissus adds a hint of earthiness, grounding the sweetness of gardenia and lilac. Orris, with its subtle, powdery warmth, ties all the florals together, leaving a lingering softness as the fragrance moves toward its base.

In the base, the sensuality of the fragrance deepens, introducing a warm, woody foundation that feels enveloping and comforting. Mysore sandalwood stands out with its characteristic smoothness, creamy and rich, lending longevity and a luxurious softness to the perfume. The patchouli here is earthy and slightly sweet, giving depth and grounding the composition, while amber adds a warm, resinous glow that feels almost golden. 

The musk is soft and intimate, as if it melds with the skin, while oakmoss adds a touch of dry, forest-like greenery. Vetiver brings a smoky, grassy edge, and cedar adds a clean, woody crispness. Finally, a touch of vanilla and clove from Tonga spices adds a hint of sweetness and spice, wrapping the fragrance in a warm, lingering embrace.

Each ingredient unfolds to reveal a multifaceted scent journey, transitioning seamlessly from sparkling top notes to a complex floral heart and finally to a deeply sensual, long-lasting base. Or Noir is an evocative interplay of contrasts and harmonies, weaving together light and dark, softness and strength, to create a perfume that feels both precious and profoundly feminine.

Bottle:

Morabito believed that the container should be especially important as the juice, because he said "I am a jeweler, and it would not be appropriate simply to have some kind of crystal bottle. I felt the bottle should be like a piece of jewelry."

Pascal Morabito envisioned the bottle to resemble one of his greatest achievements, the thinnest electronic watch ever made, which debuted in 1976. It was this slim, geometric shape that inspired his bottle for Or Noir.

The sumptuous flacon features four onyx beads inset on 24 kt gold plated brass framed crystal, the square bottle fitted with a porthole to see the juice inside. Each bottle was signed and numbered, the purchaser received a golden card, listing the bottle number, that entitled the bearer to buy refills of the perfume at $75 a half ounce. Each limited edition flacon retailed for $295 per half ounce of parfum in 1981, by 1982, this price had gone down to $250, due to the fact that "it's easier to import now," said Patricia Toll, manager of the American branch of Reflets de Paris in Beverly Hills. She said it was the shop's most expensive perfume and revealed that "It's bought mostly by men as gifts for women."

Morabito stated that in Paris, 1980, he started out with 1000 bottles, and surprisingly, they were "gone in a month." At the end of the year, he sold 3,500 bottles at 1000 francs for one half ounce. He credits most of that success to the bottle itself, which he calls a "collector's item."

The perfume was available in limited quantities in his shops exclusively, until Saks Fifth Avenue persuaded him to agree to distribution in their states side stores. As a result, only 200 bottles were available in the USA in 1981.



Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris - Issues 782-784, 1993:

"Pascal Morabito's "Or Noir" is more than a large, flowery, fruity, woody fragrance. His "Prestige" bottle, art object created by the jeweler himself, will seduce you (about 400 to 990 F.)"

Or Noir was available in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
• 0.5 oz Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $295 in 1981)
• 1 oz Parfum Splash 

• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

• 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

• 2 oz Eau de Parfum Splash

Marketing - Volume 17, 1984:

"French company Pascal Morabito has introduced Or Black for men and Or Noir for women to the UK, with prices starting at £70 for 100ml eau de toilette of Or Black and £115 for a half ounce of Or Noir."

Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris - Issues 782-784, 1993:

"Collectible: Perfect balance between heady notes and fresh accords. Or Noir by Pascal Morabito is more than a "great flowery, fruity, woody perfume." Its "Prestige" bottle, an art object created by the jeweler himself, will seduce you (around 400 to 990 F)."

The attention to detail and craftsmanship in both the fragrance and its presentation truly reflect Pascal Morabito's background as a jeweler and his commitment to creating luxury experiences. The bottle design, inspired by his groundbreaking electronic watch, showcases his dedication to marrying form and function.

The sumptuous flacon, adorned with onyx beads and 24 kt gold plated brass framed crystal, exudes opulence and sophistication. The inclusion of a porthole to view the perfume inside adds a touch of intrigue and elegance.

The limited edition and numbered bottles, accompanied by a golden card, further enhance the exclusivity of "Or Noir," making it not just a perfume but a coveted collector's item. The pricing strategy, with refills available at a premium, adds to the perception of luxury and prestige associated with the fragrance.

The decision to initially offer the perfume exclusively in Morabito's shops, followed by distribution in prestigious stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, speaks to the brand's desire to maintain a sense of exclusivity while also expanding its reach to a wider audience.

Altogether, the success of "Or Noir" can be attributed not only to its exquisite fragrance but also to its meticulously crafted presentation, which embodies the essence of luxury and sophistication.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It's interesting to note that "Or Noir" was discontinued around 1993/1994 but later reformulated and relaunched in 2014. This resurgence speaks to the enduring appeal and legacy of the fragrance, as well as the continued demand for its unique scent profile.

The relaunch likely aimed to reintroduce the beloved fragrance to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts while also catering to existing fans who cherished its original essence. Reformulations often involve adjusting ingredients to comply with regulations, improving performance, or modernizing the scent to align with contemporary tastes while preserving its core identity.

For fans of the original "Or Noir," the relaunch would have been an exciting opportunity to reconnect with a beloved scent or discover it for the first time. It also reflects the timeless quality of the fragrance, which continues to captivate and inspire even after decades since its inception.