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Sunday, October 8, 2023

Silences by Jacomo c1978

Launched in 1978, Silences by Parfums Jacomo is a fragrance that evokes a sense of tranquility and introspection, encapsulated in its evocative name. The term "Silences" is derived from French, translating directly to "silences" in English. This word conjures images of serene, quiet moments, a peaceful retreat from the chaos of everyday life. It suggests a profound stillness, evoking emotions of contemplation, calmness, and a deeper connection to one's inner self. For women in the late 1970s, a perfume called Silences would have resonated with the growing desire for authenticity and self-expression during a time when societal norms were shifting. As women sought to carve out their own identities, this fragrance could symbolize a moment of personal reflection amidst the noise of the world.

In terms of olfactory interpretation, Silences presents itself as a rich green floral fragrance that captures the essence of a tranquil garden. The top notes burst forth with a verdant freshness, characterized by a crisp green accord that feels both invigorating and calming. This lively opening sets the stage for the heart of the fragrance, which is a harmonious blend of green florals. The floral components—delicate iris and captivating narcissus—bring a sense of sophistication and elegance, while cassis adds a subtle fruitiness that enhances the overall freshness. This bouquet is further enriched by the warmth and spice of ylang-ylang, creating a complex and multifaceted experience that unfolds over time.

Beneath this vibrant heart lies a mild, powdery floral base, where the gentle, creamy notes of Indian sandalwood intertwine with the softness of the other floral elements. The sandalwood introduces a woody warmth that grounds the fragrance, providing a serene backdrop against which the floral notes can shine. This powdery finish adds a touch of nostalgia, reminiscent of the classic perfumes of earlier decades, while still feeling modern and fresh.



The late 1970s was a fascinating time in the fragrance industry, marked by a shift toward more complex, nuanced scents. While many perfumes of the era leaned heavily into bold florals or sweet gourmand notes, Silences offered a refreshing alternative. Its green floral composition stood out in a market often dominated by heavier, more assertive fragrances. This unique blend of freshness, floral elegance, and subtle warmth made Silences a captivating choice for women seeking something that reflected their individuality and introspective nature. As a fragrance, it not only appealed to the senses but also invited the wearer to embrace moments of quietude and reflection amidst the vibrant backdrop of the 1970s. 


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a mild, powdery floral base. A subtle, elegant blend of iris, narcissus and cassis warmed and spiced by ylang ylang, soft and woody with Indian sandalwood.

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, galbanum, orange blossom, green notes, cassis
  • Middle notes:  narcissus, orris, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, hyacinth
  • Base notes: oakmoss, Indian sandalwood, musk, cedar

Scent Profile:


Silences by Parfums Jacomo is a fragrance that invites you into a serene and harmonious world, where every note unfolds like a delicate whisper. At first inhale, the top notes introduce a vibrant and fresh symphony, dominated by the bright and zesty essence of bergamot and lemon. The bergamot's citrus brightness dances with the crispness of lemon, evoking images of sunlit gardens, where dew-kissed leaves glisten in the morning light. 

Adding depth, galbanum lends a green, slightly herbal character that resonates with the freshness of nature, while the sweet floral notes of orange blossom intertwine, creating a captivating, sweet contrast that envelops you in its warmth. The hint of cassis adds a juicy richness, reminiscent of ripe blackcurrants, enhancing the green complexity of this opening phase.

As the scent evolves, you transition into the heart notes, where a lush tapestry of narcissus, orris, and rose reveals itself. The narcissus, with its subtle earthiness, brings a captivating depth that is both soft and sophisticated, akin to wandering through a blooming meadow. The orris adds an elegant, velvety touch, its powdery softness enveloping the senses, reminiscent of delicate silk against the skin. 

In the background, the rose unfurls its timeless charm, infusing the composition with romantic elegance. The delicate floral notes of lily of the valley, jasmine, and hyacinth swirl together, creating a bouquet that is both refreshing and intoxicating. The ylang-ylang brings a hint of exoticism, its creamy sweetness warming the floral heart and adding an intriguing spice that teases the senses.

Finally, the fragrance settles into a base that is warm and grounding. The earthy, mossy scent of oakmoss provides a rich, enveloping foundation, evoking a sense of tranquility and timelessness. Indian sandalwood adds a soft, creamy woodiness that lingers on the skin, its smooth richness enhancing the overall elegance of the composition. The subtle musk intertwines with cedar, offering a comforting warmth that resonates with the heart of nature. Together, these base notes create a serene, powdery floral finish, inviting you to breathe deeply and savor the stillness.

In its entirety, Silences is not just a fragrance; it is an experience that encapsulates the beauty of nature, evoking peace and harmony through its carefully orchestrated blend of notes. Each element plays its part in a delicate balance, reminiscent of a quiet moment in a blossoming garden, where every scent invites reflection and appreciation of the subtle elegance found in life's silences.
 

Bottles:


The packaging of "Silences" reflects its timeless elegance. The original bottle design is sleek and minimalistic, often in black with simple, understated lines. This design choice highlights the refined nature of the fragrance inside.





Fate of the Fragrance:


Like many long-standing fragrances, "Silences" has undergone various reformulations over the years. While some purists prefer the original 1978 formulation, the modern versions still retain the core characteristics that make it a beloved scent.

The original 1978 version was discontinued most likely sometime in the early 1990s. It was reformulated in 2004 and relaunched. This version included the aroma chemical Vertofix, a compound also used in Chanel No. 19. I believe that this version of Silences was discontinued also.  

It's fascinating to see how a fragrance can change over time with reformulations and adaptations. 

In 2012 it was reformulated by perfumer Serge Majoullier of Mane. The fragrance was now named 
Jacomo Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime. The top notes are green and powdery with the fresh crispness of a juicy pear, followed by a soft floral heart, layered over a woodsy, musk base.

  • Top notes: galbanum, pear, blackcurrant bud and aldehydes
  • Middle notes: Damask rose, iris from Morocco and narcissus
  • Base notes: woods, musk

This version starts with a green and powdery opening, featuring the crispness of juicy pear alongside the bitterness of galbanum and the sweet, slightly tart aroma of blackcurrant bud. Aldehydes add a touch of effervescence and sophistication to the top notes.

The heart of Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime unfolds with a soft, delicate floral bouquet. Damask rose brings its classic romantic charm, while Moroccan iris adds a powdery, slightly earthy quality. Narcissus likely contributes a green, slightly herbal facet to the floral accord, complementing the greenness of the top notes.

The base of this version is described as woodsy and musky, providing a warm and sensual foundation for the fragrance. The specific woods used aren't specified, but they likely contribute to the overall depth and longevity of the scent, while musk adds a soft, skin-like quality.

Altogether, Jacomo Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime appears to retain the essence of the original while offering a modern twist with updated notes and a sleeker presentation. It's interesting to note the use of Vertofix in the earlier reformulation, connecting it to the iconic Chanel No. 19.

Retaining the original round shape and black color of the bottle while updating the font characters gives the fragrance a sense of continuity with its heritage while also modernizing its appearance to appeal to contemporary sensibilities. Offering it in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes provides options for both regular users and enthusiasts who may prefer larger quantities. It sounds like Jacomo has taken a thoughtful approach to both the fragrance and its presentation.

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