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Sunday, October 8, 2023

Silences by Jacomo c1978

"Silences" by Parfums Jacomo is a classic fragrance that was first launched in 1978. 





When it was launched in 1978, "Silences" stood out for its unique blend of green and floral notes, which was somewhat unconventional at the time. It has since gained a loyal following and is considered a classic in the world of perfumery. "Silences" has remained popular over the decades due to its distinctive and sophisticated scent profile. It is often praised for its ability to evoke a sense of calm and serenity, much like its name suggests.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich green floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a mild, powdery floral base. A subtle, elegant blend of iris, narcissus and cassis warmed and spiced by ylang ylang, soft and woody with Indian sandalwood.

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, galbanum, orange blossom, green notes, cassis
  • Middle notes:  narcissus, orris, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, hyacinth
  • Base notes: oakmoss, Indian sandalwood, musk, cedar

The fragrance opens with a fresh and crisp burst of galbanum, which is known for its green and slightly bitter scent. This is complemented by the citrusy and slightly sweet notes of bergamot, orange blossom, and lemon.

The heart of Silences unfolds into a lush bouquet of floral notes, dominated by narcissus, iris, and jasmine, with touches of sweet rose and the delicate freshness of lily of the valley. Ylang-ylang adds a creamy, slightly exotic facet to the floral accord, while hyacinth contributes a green, slightly spicy nuance. 

The base of Silences is where the fragrance finds its depth and warmth. Oakmoss provides a classic chypre element, earthy and slightly woody, while Indian sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth richness. Musk lends a soft, sensual quality, enhancing the overall longevity of the scent, while cedar adds a touch of dry woodiness, rounding out the composition.

Overall, Silences is a complex and sophisticated fragrance, balancing green freshness with rich florals and a warm, woody base. It's a timeless scent that exudes elegance and refinement.


Bottles:


The packaging of "Silences" reflects its timeless elegance. The original bottle design is sleek and minimalistic, often in black with simple, understated lines. This design choice highlights the refined nature of the fragrance inside.





Fate of the Fragrance:


Like many long-standing fragrances, "Silences" has undergone various reformulations over the years. While some purists prefer the original 1978 formulation, the modern versions still retain the core characteristics that make it a beloved scent.

The original 1978 version was discontinued most likely sometime in the early 1990s. It was reformulated in 2004 and relaunched. This version included the aroma chemical Vertofix, a compound also used in Chanel No. 19. I believe that this version of Silences was discontinued also.  

It's fascinating to see how a fragrance can change over time with reformulations and adaptations. 

In 2012 it was reformulated by perfumer Serge Majoullier of Mane. The fragrance was now named 
Jacomo Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime. The top notes are green and powdery with the fresh crispness of a juicy pear, followed by a soft floral heart, layered over a woodsy, musk base.

  • Top notes: galbanum, pear, blackcurrant bud and aldehydes
  • Middle notes: Damask rose, iris from Morocco and narcissus
  • Base notes: woods, musk

This version starts with a green and powdery opening, featuring the crispness of juicy pear alongside the bitterness of galbanum and the sweet, slightly tart aroma of blackcurrant bud. Aldehydes add a touch of effervescence and sophistication to the top notes.

The heart of Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime unfolds with a soft, delicate floral bouquet. Damask rose brings its classic romantic charm, while Moroccan iris adds a powdery, slightly earthy quality. Narcissus likely contributes a green, slightly herbal facet to the floral accord, complementing the greenness of the top notes.

The base of this version is described as woodsy and musky, providing a warm and sensual foundation for the fragrance. The specific woods used aren't specified, but they likely contribute to the overall depth and longevity of the scent, while musk adds a soft, skin-like quality.

Altogether, Jacomo Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime appears to retain the essence of the original while offering a modern twist with updated notes and a sleeker presentation. It's interesting to note the use of Vertofix in the earlier reformulation, connecting it to the iconic Chanel No. 19.

Retaining the original round shape and black color of the bottle while updating the font characters gives the fragrance a sense of continuity with its heritage while also modernizing its appearance to appeal to contemporary sensibilities. Offering it in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes provides options for both regular users and enthusiasts who may prefer larger quantities. It sounds like Jacomo has taken a thoughtful approach to both the fragrance and its presentation.

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