Grain de Folie by Parfums Nicky Verfaillie c1981

"Grain de Folie" by Nicky Verfaillie was launched in 1982, a period characterized by significant social and cultural shifts. The early 1980s marked the beginning of a decade known for its extravagance, innovation, and breaking away from traditional norms. This era saw a rise in the prominence of avant-garde fashion, the growing influence of pop culture, and a burgeoning sense of individualism. It was a time when people were increasingly embracing bold, unconventional styles and celebrating the eccentric. Perfumes from this period often mirrored these trends with daring compositions and striking presentations. "Grain de Folie," with its whimsical and slightly rebellious name, perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the times—playful, audacious, and full of life.

The name "Grain de Folie" translates to "Seed of Madness" in English. This intriguing name suggests a small but potent spark of wildness and spontaneity, capturing the essence of unpredictable and joyous moments. Nicky Verfaillie likely chose this name to convey a sense of fun and carefree abandon, inviting wearers to embrace their playful side and indulge in moments of delightful madness. The concept of a "seed" also implies that this madness is an intrinsic part of one's nature, waiting to grow and flourish.

"Grain de Folie" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it embodies the idea of a scent that can spark joy and whimsy. The name suggests a fragrance that is both captivating and exhilarating, encouraging the wearer to break free from the mundane and experience moments of pure, unrestrained happiness. It speaks to the transformative power of scent, how it can ignite a sense of adventure and spontaneity, making life feel more vibrant and exciting.

Women in the early 1980s who related to a fragrance called "Grain de Folie" would likely have been those who embraced their individuality and enjoyed standing out from the crowd. These women would have been confident, adventurous, and unafraid to express their unique personalities. They would respond to "Grain de Folie" with enthusiasm, appreciating its ability to enhance their playful and daring side. This perfume would appeal to women who saw fragrance as a way to express their creativity and zest for life.

The phrase "Grain de Folie" evokes images of spontaneous joy, carefree laughter, and the vibrant energy of living in the moment. It brings to mind feelings of lightheartedness, excitement, and the thrill of unexpected adventures. The imagery associated with this name includes the bright, lively colors of a carnival, the playful twinkle of confetti, and the enchanting chaos of a spontaneous dance. The feelings it conjures are those of exhilaration, freedom, and the sheer delight of indulging in one's whimsical side, making it a captivating and evocative name for a fragrance.

Launch:

Rosemarie Stack, the wife of actor Robert Stack, embarked on an entrepreneurial journey by purchasing the distribution rights for Grain de Sable from Nicky Verfaillie. Her decision was deeply rooted in a personal passion for the fragrances. As Rosemarie recounts, her journey began serendipitously at a music festival on the Spanish island of Majorca in 1980. There, she noticed her French friend wearing a captivating scent. Upon inquiry, she discovered it was Grain de Sable, a perfume made by Nicky Verfaillie. "A friend who lives in Paris was wearing the most beautiful fragrance. It's a quality fragrance. I was embarrassed to ask her what it was because, with women, you don't know how they'll react. Anyway, I loved it and asked her what she was wearing. She told me, and the next day, I found a sample in the letterbox at my hotel," said Mrs. Stack.

Her friend, who did public relations for the company, began sending her the fragrance, as it was unavailable in the United States. "On each visit," said Mrs. Stack, "I bought my own. Then my friends in L.A. began pushing, 'Bring some back for me.' Eventually, it occurred to me that it might be a wonderful idea to bring it to the USA, period. This little voice inside me kept prompting me." Encouraged by an agent in Los Angeles who suggested she go into business, things "just sort of snowballed" from there. This initial love for the scent organically evolved into a distributorship, driven by her desire to share this enchanting fragrance with others. She fondly referred to the venture as "pretty much my baby," highlighting her deep personal connection and commitment to the brand. With her husband, she secured the U.S. distribution rights from Nicky Verfaillie, naming the company Rosemarie Stack Limited. "I'm President, and Bob is vice-president and Chairman of the Board," said Mrs. Stack.

Under her distribution company, Rosemarie Stack, Ltd., she expanded the Les Grains line to include two more fragrances: Grain de Folie in 1981 and Grain de Passion in 1985. "I've smelled so many fragrances that are all alike. If you took the labels off, you wouldn't know one from the other," she remarked. "They either have too much musk or too much lemon." She emphasized that her line of Nicky Verfaillie fragrances were unusual but "related" florals, meaning they could be worn separately or layered together. "The concept is that you have a fragrance on in the morning, it stays in the oils on your skin all day long. When you get to the evening, you can add a little more voltage with a different scent from the same family, rather than fighting it with something entirely different," she explained, adding, "The dimensions are wonderful."

The Les Grains line was designed to reflect the shifting moods and special feelings of a woman, much like shifting sands. Rather than a singular fragrance, it offered a range that encompassed every facet of her emotions. The trio of unique fragrances each had their own identities but were designed to be layered "to blend and complement one another - for either a subtle refinement or an intensification of effect," according to promotional material. Grain de Sable was described as "light, easy, with care-free overtones," housed in a frosted glass bottle. Grain de Folie, "warmer, more fully rounded," was held in a midnight black bottle. Grain de Passion, the most powerful, with "extra voltage for night," was captured in a flaming red bottle. "They're related scents, so you can layer them. As the day wears on, you can gain voltage," Mrs. Stack noted.

The appeal of the Les Grains fragrances quickly crossed the Atlantic, becoming as popular in America as they were in Europe. An illustrative example of this demand occurred when a Saudi Arabian princess placed an order worth $1,100 for Grain de Folie the day before its official introduction at a department store. The princess bought the entire store stock because she wanted all her ladies-in-waiting to wear the same fragrance she did. This impressive demand underscored the universal allure and exclusivity of the fragrance. Demonstrating her dedication to customer service, Mrs. Stack personally hand-carried the fragrance on a plane to San Francisco the following morning to ensure the princess received her order promptly.

Rosemarie Stack's personal passion for the fragrances, coupled with her business acumen, helped establish the Les Grains line's success in the American market. The story of the Saudi princess not only highlights the high demand and exclusivity of the fragrances but also exemplifies the luxury and sophistication that Grain de Folie and its counterparts embodied. Mrs. Stack's hands-on approach and personal investment in the brand were key factors in its successful transatlantic appeal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a fruity, dry, fresh top, followed by an elegant floral heart of sweet melon alongside papaya, jasmine and rose, resting on a warm, woody base.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, aldehyde, galbanum, estragon, fruit note
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, clove buds, orris
• Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, cedar, civet, leather, castoreum

Scent Story:

In the vibrant year of 1982, amid the dazzling energy of a world embracing change and innovation, Nicky Verfaillie envisioned a fragrance that would capture the essence of spontaneity and joy. Collaborating with the talented perfumer Henri Sorsana, they set out to create Grain de Folie, an oriental fragrance that would evoke the exhilaration and whimsical delight of living in the moment. The name itself, "Grain de Folie," translates to "Grain of Madness" in English, perfectly encapsulating the playful, carefree spirit of the scent.

Imagine stepping into a bustling carnival, where the air is filled with the laughter of children and the cheerful sounds of music. As you wander through this lively scene, you are greeted by the fruity, dry freshness of the fragrance's top notes. The sparkling brightness of bergamot and neroli instantly uplift your spirits, while the green, slightly bitter aroma of galbanum adds a unique depth. The subtle sweetness of aldehydes mingles with the herbaceous hint of estragon, and the overall effect is a symphony of vibrant, fruity notes that tantalize your senses.

As you continue through the carnival, you catch glimpses of colorful confetti floating through the air, each piece catching the sunlight and twinkling with playful energy. The fragrance's heart notes begin to reveal themselves, unfolding like the petals of a blooming flower. The sweet, tropical scent of melon and papaya intertwines with the intoxicating aroma of jasmine and rose. These floral notes are complemented by the delicate freshness of lily of the valley, creating a harmonious and elegant bouquet. The spicy warmth of clove buds and the powdery richness of orris root add layers of complexity, making the heart of Grain de Folie both enchanting and sophisticated.

As the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the carnival, the atmosphere becomes even more magical. The fragrance's base notes emerge, grounding the playful top and heart notes with their warm, woody depth. You can feel the soft, velvety texture of oakmoss and patchouli underfoot as you dance to the music, their earthy aromas blending with the rich, creamy scent of sandalwood. The smoky, resinous notes of vetiver and cedarwood add a touch of mystery, while the golden warmth of amber wraps you in a comforting embrace. The animalic hints of civet and castoreum, along with the luxurious scent of leather, add a sensual, almost primal quality to the fragrance, evoking the thrill of unexpected adventures and the freedom to indulge in one's whimsical side.

Grain de Folie is a fragrance that resonates with women who embrace life with a sense of spontaneity and joy. These are women who find delight in the unexpected, who laugh easily and live boldly. Wearing this fragrance, they feel a rush of excitement and a sense of liberation, as if they are twirling in the midst of a spontaneous dance or caught up in the enchanting chaos of a carnival. The scent conjures images of bright, lively colors, the playful twinkle of confetti, and the thrill of carefree adventures, making it a captivating and evocative companion for those who seek to celebrate the vibrant energy of life.

In the creation of Grain de Folie, Nicky Verfaillie and Henri Sorsana captured the essence of lightheartedness and excitement, crafting a fragrance that transports its wearer to a world of spontaneous joy and whimsical delight. It is a scent that celebrates the sheer delight of living in the moment, a tribute to the vibrant, playful spirit that resides within us all.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Grain de Folie, part of the Les Grains line by Parfums Nicky Verfaillie and distributed by Rosemarie Stack Ltd., was discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. It is likely that the discontinuation occurred around 1986. Despite its initial popularity and the distinctive appeal it held for women seeking a warmer, more fully rounded fragrance, market dynamics and shifting consumer preferences may have contributed to its eventual phase-out. The discontinuation of Grain de Folie marked the end of an era for a scent that had captured the hearts of many, including a Saudi Arabian princess who once purchased the entire store stock for her ladies-in-waiting.