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Saturday, May 30, 2020

Recital by F. Millot c1931

Recital by F. Millot was launched in 1931, a name likely chosen for its rich resonance with themes of grace, elegance, and refinement. The word "recital" originates from French and English, pronounced as reh-SITE-uhl, and refers to a performance, often musical or poetic, intended to captivate an audience through the beauty of the art itself. The term "recital" calls to mind images of poised musicians or dancers on stage, captivating their audience with practiced grace. In choosing this name, F. Millot and the perfumer Jean Desprez conjured a fragrance that promised to evoke a sense of performance, beauty, and lightness, as if each wear was a personal symphony for the senses.

To the women of the early 1930s, the name Recital would have likely held an air of sophistication, offering them an essence that felt both artistic and intimate, as if wearing the fragrance would allow them to carry an aura of elegance and poise that might echo a beautifully orchestrated performance. Perfume names in the early 20th century often held a promise of transformation, and Recital would have been no different—suggesting that every woman could step into a role of beauty and charm, much like a soloist stepping onto a stage. The promise of a floral chypre fragrance, lighthearted yet refined, would have been deeply appealing to the contemporary woman who appreciated a complex fragrance that offered both sweetness and depth, mirroring her own multifaceted nature.





The fragrance itself, described as "a symphony of spring loveliness, attuned to your lighter, gayer moods," interpreted "Recital" in scent through a balance of floral sweetness and the earthy richness of the chypre base. The top notes sparkled with vibrant citrus and green tones, a lively prelude to a heart filled with blooming flowers and warm spice. Finally, a lingering base of woods, moss, and resin anchored the fragrance, a soft, elegant finish reminiscent of the calm after a brilliant performance. This complex orchestration would have felt deeply artistic and feminine, appealing to a woman’s desire for a scent that offered both beauty and subtle intrigue, much like the memorable ending of a recital that leaves the audience in appreciative silence.

Launching Recital in 1931 placed it in the heart of an era that still appreciated complexity in fragrance composition, a time when chypre and floral fragrances alike enjoyed great popularity. Yet, Recital distinguished itself through the expertise of Jean Desprez, whose skillful blending of floral and chypre notes gave the fragrance a unique identity among the other offerings of the time. While floral bouquets and aldehydic florals were prominent during this period, Recital’s combination of sweet floral aromas with a balanced earthy base was both timeless and fresh, fitting into contemporary trends but standing out for its symphonic quality—a tribute to Desprez’s artistry.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. Described as "a symphony of spring loveliness, attuned to your lighter, gayer moods, "having "sweet floral aromas."
  • Top notes: lavender, petitgrain, orange, lemon, neroli, galbanum, bergamot, basil, Peru oil and aldehydes
  • Middle notes: tuberose, lily of the valley, carnation, orange blossom, orris root, violet leaf, iris, gardenia, ylang-ylang, sage, rose otto, chamomile and jasmine
  • Base notes: civet, labdanum, cedar, opoponax, castoreum, ambergris, leather, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli and benzoin
 

La Femme Chic, 1945:
"For those who do not want to wear aggressive perfume, note Recital de Millot with its sweet floral aromas; and more particularly Espoir de Paquin. This delicate creation seems to us to be the 'beginner's' dream perfume, to be recommended to young girls who, without wanting to age, quite rightly have the impression of not yet being a woman as long as they do not have perfume. In Espoir we find the familiar scents of flowers from our home, our gardens and our countryside, from all the seasons and all the provinces. The result is a fresh, fresh scent of exquisite youthfulness."


Scent Profile:

As you open the bottle of Recital, you’re greeted by a bright, layered symphony of top notes that sing of springtime. The fragrance opens with a crisp lavender that dances with a calming herbal edge, both refreshing and slightly camphorous. Beside it, petitgrain introduces a green, slightly bitter woodiness that smooths out the sharpness of lavender, while a squeeze of orange and lemon zest sparkles through, infusing the air with citrusy brightness. The orange is juicy and cheerful, yet not overly sweet; it finds a natural harmony with lemon’s zesty tartness. 

Neroli then brings a subtle floral hint to the citrusy overture, its aroma both green and slightly bitter, conjuring visions of flowering groves warmed by sunlight. These citrus and herb notes intermingle with basil, which lends an herbaceous, almost spicy tone that sharpens the air and pairs with the unique, resinous sweetness of Peru oil. 

Aldehydes create a modern, fizzy lift to these natural elements, giving the top notes a sparkling, airy quality as if the scent itself were effervescent. Finally, galbanum introduces a green, forested earthiness that hints at the depth within the fragrance, grounding the citrus brightness with a touch of intrigue.

The heart of Recital unfolds like an opulent bouquet carried on a breeze, heady and lush. Tuberose leads with creamy, slightly indolic tones that are intensely floral, enveloping you in a rich, white-flower warmth that borders on sweet honey. Following closely, lily of the valley adds a tender dewiness, soft and fresh, bringing a cool sweetness like early morning. 

Carnation introduces a hint of spice, with clove-like warmth that complements the floral tones, lending a sophisticated, vintage edge. Orange blossom and neroli share an intoxicating harmony, with orange blossom more lush and floral than neroli’s green crispness; they twine together, bringing brightness and sweet depth. Orris root and violet leaf enhance the heart’s elegance with their powdery, velvety touches. Orris is earthy yet soft, conjuring an almost creamy softness, while violet leaf adds a subtle green aroma that tempers the richness of gardenia’s thick, waxy sweetness. 

Ylang-ylang unfurls with its exotic, fruity-floral nuance, lending an almost tropical warmth that pairs beautifully with rose otto’s timeless richness, a deep red rose scent with a slightly spicy undertone. The heart also carries the fresh earthiness of sage, a herbaceous breath grounding the white floral extravagance, while chamomile’s soft, honeyed quality introduces a calming effect, blending seamlessly with jasmine’s luxurious sweetness that trails in the air with an intoxicating allure.

As Recital settles into its base, the fragrance takes on an earthy, animalic warmth that lingers beautifully. Civet adds a whisper of something animalistic and sensual, subtle enough to provide depth without overpowering the other notes. This is beautifully counterbalanced by labdanum’s resinous, ambery warmth, rich and slightly smoky, mingling with cedarwood’s dry, forested woodiness that imparts a grounding effect. 

Opoponax, with its sweet, balsamic quality, adds a touch of mystery, deepening the blend and balancing castoreum’s leather-like warmth that rounds out the fragrance’s animalic edge. Ambergris introduces a salty, oceanic nuance, mysterious and slightly mineral, while sandalwood brings its signature creaminess, smooth and grounding, allowing the musk to add a soft, enveloping warmth. 

Oakmoss and vetiver contribute to the chypre structure with a grounding, earthy green mossiness, adding an elegant touch of damp, forested richness, while patchouli’s earthy spiciness provides an aromatic depth that blends perfectly with the soft, vanillic sweetness of benzoin and vanilla, which add the faintest touch of confectionery warmth, rounding out the base.

Together, these intricate layers create an aura that evokes the fresh joy of spring blossoms with a warm, sophisticated depth, a fragrance that is both light-hearted and opulent, like wearing a bouquet kissed by sunshine, with an allure that lingers long after it’s left the room.



Bottle:





Fate of the Fragrance:


Recital by F. Millot, launched in 1931, captured the vivacious spirit of the early 1930s with its radiant floral chypre profile, offering wearers a fragrant "symphony of spring loveliness." This blend, exquisitely crafted to suit the "lighter, gayer moods" of modern women, exuded a cheerful femininity while embracing a sophisticated allure. As a floral chypre, Recital tapped into the refined trend of blending earthy, resinous notes with opulent florals and bright citruses, allowing it to appeal across different ages and occasions. Its composition was enchanting, starting with a lively, effervescent opening that felt sparkling and sunlit, progressing into a full, blooming heart before settling into a deep, luxurious base. This blend offered the scent of springtime in a bottle, both fresh and intricate, a bouquet accented by earth and warmth that appealed to women’s lighter side as well as their elegance.

During the 1930s, Recital quickly became synonymous with joyful refinement, resonating with women seeking a fragrance that offered both charm and sophistication. It paired beautifully with the fashion of the era, complementing the tailored, feminine silhouettes and bright, floral prints that were in vogue. With time, Recital gained a reputation as a versatile scent for both day and evening wear, its balance of floral sweetness and earthy chypre base lending it a light-hearted character during the day and an elegant depth for evening occasions. The unique combination of both fresh and opulent ingredients created a scent profile that felt both vivacious and dignified, ideal for the woman who wanted to make a graceful impression without overwhelming her presence.

Recital remained popular throughout the 1930s and into the 1940s, even as perfume styles evolved with the changes in society and fashion. However, around 1948, F. Millot discontinued Recital, likely due to shifts in fragrance trends as the industry leaned toward more powdery, aldehydic florals that were becoming fashionable post-WWII. The end of Recital marked the end of an era for many women who had grown fond of its charming, spring-like aura. Even though it disappeared from counters, Recital maintained a legacy as a fragrance emblematic of its time—a luxurious yet joyful scent that captured the optimism of the early 1930s.






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