Tropiques by Lancome c1935

Launched in 1935, Tropiques was one of the very first fragrances introduced by Armand Petitjean, the visionary founder of Lancôme. Petitjean was deeply inspired by the tropical splendor of Bahia, Brazil, a vibrant port city teeming with lush vegetation, intoxicating blossoms, and the warm embrace of sun-drenched shores. The name Tropiques, derived from the French language, is pronounced troh-peek and translates to "tropics" in English. It instantly evokes visions of lush rainforests, golden beaches, and sultry, humid nights, filled with the mysterious and heady scent of exotic flowers, ripe fruits, and warm, resinous woods.

The launch of Tropiques in 1935 coincided with a fascinating period in history. The interwar years, often referred to as the Art Deco era, were marked by glamour, escapism, and a fascination with faraway lands. The world was recovering from the Great Depression, and despite economic hardships, there was a thirst for luxury, adventure, and exoticism. International travel, though still reserved for the elite, had become a symbol of sophistication, and tropical destinations such as Cuba, Brazil, and the French colonies were romanticized in fashion, film, and literature.

In perfumery, oriental and floral compositions were thriving, with rich, opulent scents dominating the market. Women sought fragrances that were both sensual and transportive, and Tropiques—with its blend of heady florals, balsamic resins, and warm spices—perfectly captured this desire. Its spicy floral oriental character was an embodiment of the era’s daring femininity, reflecting the confident, modern woman who embraced both elegance and sensuality.

Petitjean reportedly spent four years perfecting Tropiques, crafting a scent that was as untamed and lush as the jungles of South America. The perfume opens with a burst of juicy mandarin and sunlit bergamot, their brightness enlivened by the warm, piquant caress of cinnamon and aromatic spices. This effervescent introduction is both invigorating and mouthwatering, immediately setting the tone for an indulgent olfactory journey.

The heart of the fragrance is a dazzling bouquet of tropical white florals, mirroring the breathtaking abundance of an untouched rainforest. Ylang-ylang’s creamy, banana-like sweetness intertwines with the intoxicating power of Grasse jasmine, lush gardenia, narcotic tuberose, and delicate orchid. These flowers, often associated with sensuality and exotic allure, create a hypnotic, almost dreamlike sensation—as if one were wandering through a dense floral paradise under the glow of the moon. A touch of honeyed balsamic vanilla further enhances the richness, adding a golden warmth to the composition.

The base is where Tropiques fully unveils its sensual, enigmatic soul. Creamy sandalwood and precious exotic woods provide a smooth yet earthy depth, while leather and ambergris introduce an animalic sensuality, reminiscent of sun-warmed skin after a day spent in tropical heat. Oakmoss and vetiver, in their dry, green, and slightly smoky complexity, evoke the damp, shaded floor of the jungle, grounding the composition with a touch of mystery.

Tropiques was an exceptional fragrance for its time. While floral and chypre perfumes were abundant in the 1930s, few fragrances dared to fully embrace the exoticism of the tropics in such a decadent and vivid manner. In contrast to the refined aldehydic florals that dominated the decade, Tropiques stood apart as a sensory escape, a fragrance that painted a world far removed from the smoky salons of Paris or the polished elegance of New York. It was both a statement of luxury and a tribute to the adventurous, worldly woman—someone who longed for the sun-drenched landscapes of foreign shores and the thrilling promise of the unknown.

For the women of the Art Deco era, Tropiques was more than just a perfume—it was a dream bottled in glass.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Tropiques by Lancome is classified as a spicy floral oriental (amber) fragrance for women. It was described as the subtle emanations of orchid clusters, a breath of gardenias and other white flowers in the undisturbed and untamed jungle forest, laden with citrus, succulent tropical fruits, the spiced balsamic fragrance of cinnamon and vanilla, warm precious woods - a firm and poetical evocation of the exotic and mysterious nights in Cuban lands. 

It begins with a zesty citrus top of juicy mandarin and bright bergamot scattered with pungent spices and aromatic notes, followed by a white floral heart of tropical ylang ylang, radiant jasmine, narcotic gardenia, heady tuberose and delicate orchid drizzled with balsamic notes of vanilla and honey, layered over a base of creamy sandalwood and other precious woods, animalic notes of leather and ambergris, resting against green undertones of oakmoss and dry vetiver.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Malabar pepper, Zanzibar clove, iso-eugenol, Saigon cinnamon, Spanish mandarin, aromatic notes, Brazilian pineapple, Guatemalan mango, Sicilian neroli, Manila coconut
• Middle notes: Russian coriander, Ceylon cardamom, Tunisian orange blossom, Dutch orchid, Tahitian gardenia, Provencal honey, Egyptian jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Portuguese tuberose, French carnation, Grasse rose
• Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Mexican vanilla, Atlas cedar, ambergris, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Siamese benzoin, Maltese labdanum, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin

Armand Petitjean, creator of the perfume explains:

"Tropiques is like honey. With its heavy coating of spices and aromatics it frightens off most of the English and the northerners, although it may appeal profoundly to women of society and artists."

Paris-Alger, 1935:

"Lancome...These five new scents are: Kypre, velvety and flowery, deeper than ordinary chypre; Tendres Nuits, whose sweetness of exotic fruits surprises with a lavender opening; Bocages, scent of blonde, young and laughing, whose honeysuckle seems to emerge from a double base of jasmine and mimosa; Conquête, an aroma of intimate luxury, of the same inspiration as Chanel's 5, although the smell is different; Tropiques, which is exhaled in surprises, like a warm symphony in which the brilliance of the brass surprises."

Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:

"Tropiques is the criterion of elegance. It embodies distinction in the modern art of perfume."

A 1945 Lancome perfume catalog described Tropiques as:

"Against an evocative backdrop of aromatics, woods, and spices unfolds a divine interplay of pure scents. A smooth yet profound and intoxicating veil first emerges in its full richness. The supreme elegance of this fragrance is revealed through its high, intense notes—distinct and utterly captivating." 

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Tropiques by Lancome: Torrid and heady atmosphere charged with herbs and spices with a note of precious woods and exotic plants. Perfume of luxury, calm and voluptuousness that will especially appeal to 'full-blooded' women."

Combat, 1952:

"Exotic scents. A swarm of bees crosses Lancome's enchanted garden in "Fleches", permeated with the warm breath of the "Tropiques". But in the tangle of lianas and flowers with vermilion calyxes hides the “Tresor”, a diamond rose, shrouded in embalmed light."

Official sewing and fashion of Paris, Issues 880-882, 2003:

"The first five perfumes from Lancôme occupy different territories. Tropics preferred by Petitjean, reminds him of South America.  "Imagine a man in white suit walking down the harbor of Pernambuco in the late afternoon, in the midst of incoming vessels to port. He finds himself in a corner of the pier where bananas, molasses, spices, precious woods, rum, leather are being unloaded. Smells exalted by the sun mingling with hints of the tide, and the scent of hemp. A little later, the man got back into a full residential town of fragrant gardens. After the clutter of the port, the sumptuousness of rare flowers, in the calm shade of the trees, the incredible luxury of rest ...A magical evocation suggestive of a delicious honey fragrance. The bottle, it's terrain surrounded by ropes, is embellished with fine gold."

Ladies Home Journal, 1947:

"Tropiques by Lancome. casts an aura of surf, palms, and exotic flowers."

Scent Profile:

As Tropiques first unfolds, it is a dazzling burst of Calabrian bergamot, its effervescent zest immediately awakening the senses. The bergamot from Calabria, Italy, is revered for its crisp, slightly floral edge—less bitter than its counterparts, with an almost honeyed nuance that softens its sharpness. The Spanish mandarin, plump and dripping with golden juice, adds a sunlit radiance, its sweet tanginess reminiscent of an orange freshly plucked from the tree, still warm from the Mediterranean sun.

But this citrus accord is anything but simple. Malabar pepper, grown along India’s western coast, lends a piquant, almost lemony sharpness, its subtle heat wrapping around the fruit like a fine mist of spice. Zanzibar clove, rich and deeply aromatic, is filled with eugenol, a natural component responsible for its fiery warmth, while iso-eugenol, a synthetic variant, enhances this clove-like intensity, amplifying the spiced facets while smoothing out any harsh edges. Saigon cinnamon, renowned for its bold sweetness and high cinnamaldehyde content, unfurls with a rich, golden warmth—less dry than cassia, with a deep, almost resinous quality that lingers beneath the citrus like an echo of exotic markets at dusk.

Beneath the spices, there is a whisper of Sicilian neroli, extracted from the delicate blossoms of bitter orange trees, its luminous, green floralcy weaving through the composition like a thread of light. The lush ripeness of Guatemalan mango and Brazilian pineapple introduces an element of tropical indulgence, their sun-ripened juiciness tinged with the soft, honeyed musk of overripe fruit. The creamy, lactonic undertones of coconut from the Philippine Islands swirl through the opening, hinting at the exotic richness yet to unfold.

The perfume’s core is a heady bloom of the world’s most exquisite florals, as if one has stepped into a moonlit tropical forest, the air thick with Egyptian jasmine’s narcotic sweetness. Egyptian jasmine, known for its indolic richness, possesses a slightly animalic, almost honeyed quality that intertwines seamlessly with Tunisian orange blossom, its creamy white petals radiating a neroli-like freshness but with an added depth that is both luminous and sensual.

At the heart of Tropiques lies Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, sourced from the remote island off Madagascar. Unlike ordinary ylang-ylang, Nossi-Be’s variety is creamier, more languid, with hints of ripe banana and cool, slightly metallic undertones that shimmer in the heat. This exotic bloom is joined by the intoxicating Tahitian gardenia, whose opulent, waxy petals exude a scent reminiscent of coconut and vanilla, wrapping around the senses like humid night air. Portuguese tuberose, among the most intense white florals, adds its narcotic, almost buttery depth, balancing the airy, citrusy florals with its carnal, heady embrace.

A whisper of French carnation brings an unexpected fiery nuance to the bouquet, its peppery, clove-like facets echoing the spicy top notes. Dutch orchid, delicate yet persistent, lends a vanillic creaminess, its soft suede-like petals folding into the warmth of Provençal honey, which drizzles the floral composition with a golden, resinous sweetness.

As the florals recede, the base emerges, deep and unyielding, like the earth beneath the tropics—warm, damp, and rich with ancient woods. Brazilian rosewood, with its slightly smoky, rosy-spiced aroma, intertwines with the sacred, buttery smoothness of Mysore sandalwood, an ingredient so rare and coveted that it is now largely reserved for only the most exclusive perfumes. This creamy, milky wood is bolstered by the crisp, resinous depth of Atlas cedar, its dry, slightly smoky aroma reminiscent of sun-scorched trees.

The ambergris, rare and marine-salted, lends a soft, almost skin-like warmth, its ethereal, animalic quality heightened by the leather note, which smolders in the background like the well-worn interior of a luxurious travel trunk. Mexican vanilla, dark and balsamic, unfurls with its velvety richness, seamlessly blending with the caramelized warmth of Siamese benzoin and the musky, labdanum-infused depth of Maltese labdanum, which adds a slightly leathery, resinous edge.

The grounding elements of Haitian vetiver—smoky, dry, and green—meld with Yugoslavian oakmoss, its damp, earthy tones evoking the shaded jungle floor. Indonesian patchouli, rich and chocolatey, lingers like the scent of sun-warmed earth after rain, while the powdery, hay-like sweetness of Venezuelan tonka bean and its synthetic counterpart, coumarin, envelops the composition in a final whisper of golden warmth, reminiscent of sun-dried vanilla pods and crushed almond shells.

Tropiques is not merely a fragrance; it is a sensory expedition, a journey through dense, untouched jungles, along spice-laden trade routes, and into the sultry embrace of tropical nights. Each note plays a role in constructing a dreamscape—a mirage of lush orchids dripping with nectar, baskets overflowing with ripe fruit, and the warm embrace of the earth beneath bare feet. It is a fragrance that breathes with life, pulsing with heat, mystery, and adventure—a bottled memory of lands far beyond the horizon.

Bottle:

Tropiques was presented in various bottles over the years, but it's deluxe parfum flacon was made up of clear crystal, the square bottle is molded with simulated knotted rope as if bound like cargo, a nod to it's inspiration. A thick crystal cover hides the ground glass inner stopper, while gold baudruchage thread is wound around the neck of the bottle and passed through a notch in the center of the stopper to seal the flacon. The perfume's name is printed in gold enamel in the bottom right corner of the bottle.

This bottle was available in four sizes:

• 1/2 oz (catalog reference number 5201)
• 1 oz (catalog reference number 5202)
• 2 oz (catalog reference number 5203)
• 3.5 oz (catalog reference number 5204)

The 1945 Lancome perfume catalog describes it as:

"A bottle designed by Lancôme: flat with an almost square silhouette, featuring raised rope-like relief details highlighted with fine gold. The stopper is solid, elongated, and faceted, secured by a delicate green silk cord. The packaging is a square box with a lid adorned with pink and mauve Phalaenopsis orchids, set against a rosewood background brushed with gold. The interior is lined with the softest pale almond-green satin."

Bottles & boxes were designed by Georges Delhomme. 

Etoile Flacon:

Lancôme - "Tropiques" - (1935) Edition luxury dating back to 1944 square box with canted cardboard covered with polychrome paper patterns inspired decor Florentine bindings, titled, containing the bottle model "Etoile" colorless pressed glass molded rectangular shaped 8-pointed star, with its gold label. Bottle designed by Jean Sala, box designed by Georges Delhomme. H. 12.5 cm

Scroll Flacon (my own name for it):

Tropiques," a JEAN SALA designed perfume bottle for Lancome, limited edition 1944, in clear and frosted glass with label, in deluxe display box. Ht. 4 5/8 in (11.5 cm). This flacon was also used for Conquete.

Purse Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, the importation of Lancôme fragrances—including Tropiques, Tendres Nuits, Fleches, Cuir, Conquete, Bocages, Peut-Être, and Kypre—was abruptly halted, severing the connection between American consumers and the refined luxury of French perfumery. These scents, once symbols of Parisian elegance, vanished from U.S. shelves, their absence reflecting the broader turmoil of wartime restrictions and economic hardship. It was not until 1946 that these fragrances returned to American soil, marking the triumphant re-emergence of French perfumery in the postwar world.

A newspaper advertisement from that year heralded the arrival of the first envoy of the French perfume industry: Madame Elsi Cramer, a representative of Lancôme. She observed that American women often selected perfumes based on longevity rather than exploring the intricacies of their compositions—the delicate interplay of floral accords, the richness of their bases, or the artistry of their packaging. She dismissed the notion of demanding an all-day scent, instead advising that a woman should carry a small vial of her favorite perfume, refreshing it occasionally throughout the evening. This, she insisted, was the true secret to maintaining the freshness and allure of a fragrance.

Madame Cramer introduced Tropiques, alongside Fleches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquete, Qui Sait (meaning "Who Knows?"), and Bocages, as the latest offerings from Lancôme. She spoke passionately about the artistic refinement of their bottles and packaging—designs perfected after years of meticulous effort. But beyond the mere aesthetics and scent, she urged American women to recognize the deeper significance of these perfumes. During the German occupation of France, these formulas were carefully safeguarded, hidden away as cherished relics of a besieged nation. Their return to the market was not just the resumption of luxury commerce; it was a testament to resilience, craftsmanship, and national pride.

By 1952, Tropiques was still being sold, but its eventual discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery. Whether it faded from production quietly or was deliberately retired, its legacy endures as one of Lancôme’s most evocative creations—a scent that once captured the exoticism of tropical nights, the warmth of spiced woods, and the grandeur of a long-lost era of French perfumery.

2006 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2006, Tropiques was revived in a modernized form as part of Lancôme's Collection Voyage, a limited-edition series available exclusively through travel retail. Reformulated by renowned perfumers Laurent Bruyère and Dominique Ropion, this reinterpretation bore little resemblance to the original 1935 composition. Whereas the original Tropiques was an opulent, spicy, and exotic perfume evocative of honeyed warmth and lush aromatics, the new version was reimagined as a radiant fruity-floral fragrance, aligning with contemporary trends in perfumery.

Lancôme described the 2006 Tropiques as capturing the essence of a tropical garden, where vibrant notes of jasmine, bergamot, and mango flower intertwine in an airy and luminous composition. This fresh and modern take on Tropiques traded the depth and intensity of its predecessor for a lighter, sun-kissed elegance, appealing to a new generation of fragrance lovers.

Though the 2006 relaunch brought Tropiques back into the Lancôme portfolio, it remained a fleeting revival, produced only as a limited-edition release. For collectors and perfume enthusiasts, the contrast between the two versions highlights the evolution of fragrance aesthetics over the decades—from the rich, intoxicating perfumes of the early 20th century to the sheer, radiant scents that define modern perfumery.

Reformulated version:

• Top notes: bergamot, cranberry and raspberry
• Middle notes: kumquat, mango blossom, jasmine and blackberry
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka, and sandalwood

Scent Profile:

Tropiques in its 2006 reformulation is an invitation to a radiant and sun-drenched paradise, where fruit and florals unfurl in warm, golden light. Each note emerges like a shifting breeze, carrying hints of lush orchards, tropical blossoms, and the creamy, sun-warmed woods that linger on the skin.

The fragrance opens with a burst of bergamot, a sparkling citrus that instantly brightens the composition. Harvested from the sun-drenched groves of Calabria, Italy, this bergamot is prized for its refined balance between zesty freshness and soft floral nuances. Unlike the sharper citrus found in Sicilian lemons, Calabrian bergamot lends an airy, slightly aromatic quality, its effervescence heightened by synthetic citrus aldehydes, which amplify its crisp and luminous facets. The tart sweetness of cranberry follows, lending a sharp yet juicy contrast. This vibrant red fruit note, often recreated using a blend of natural fruit esters and ethyl butyrate, delivers a bright acidity that cuts through the composition like a playful splash of chilled nectar. Raspberry, with its velvety, tangy sweetness, softens the edges, providing a mouthwatering, almost gourmand nuance. Raspberry ketone, a natural compound responsible for the fruit’s characteristic scent, is often reinforced with frambinone, a synthetic aroma molecule that enhances the berry’s depth, making it richer and more intoxicating than its natural counterpart alone.

As the fragrance transitions, a lush heart unfolds, blooming with the tropical radiance of mango blossom. More delicate than the ripe fruit itself, mango blossom carries a slightly green and creamy floralcy, touched with the faintest whisper of nectarine. A hint of kumquat, a small citrus native to China but thriving in Mediterranean climates, introduces a bittersweet twist—its edible peel releasing a resinous citrus aroma that blends seamlessly with the floral tones. Jasmine, sourced from the fertile fields of Grasse, France, or possibly Egypt, adds an opulent sensuality. Unlike its indolic, night-blooming counterpart from India, this jasmine leans fresher, its honeyed, solar facets accentuated by Hedione, a synthetic molecule that lifts and aerates the florals, allowing them to radiate with natural ease. Deep within the heart, blackberry provides a darker, shadowed sweetness, its wild, brambly aroma adding an earthy contrast to the bright fruit notes above. Often built using alpha-ionone and beta-ionone, blackberry’s deep purple richness enhances the florals, weaving a seamless connection between fruit and flower.

In the base, warmth and comfort take center stage. Vanilla, a universally beloved note, reveals its creamy, balsamic richness, most likely sourced from Madagascar, where the humid climate and traditional curing process yield an especially deep, spicy vanilla with hints of dried fruit and rum. Synthetic vanillin supports its natural counterpart, intensifying its cozy sweetness and ensuring longevity. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, lends a warm, almost hay-like facet, with whispers of almond and caramel—its effect deepened by synthetic ethyl maltol, which imparts a faint cotton candy-like sweetness, rounding out the edges with a gourmand softness. Sandalwood, likely sourced from sustainable plantations in Australia, replaces the now-rare Mysore variety, yet still delivers a milky, slightly smoky woodiness. Its smooth texture is enriched by Javanol, a modern synthetic sandalwood molecule that extends its creamy depth, adding an almost coconut-like dimension while ensuring a long-lasting, diffusive sillage.

As Tropiques settles on the skin, the interplay of warm woods, airy vanilla, and tropical fruit lingers, like the fading glow of a golden sunset over an endless horizon. The fragrance, though modern and lighter than its 1935 predecessor, carries with it the same evocative spirit—an invitation to indulge in the exotic, the luminous, and the utterly transportive world of scent.

Bottle: