Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta c1983

Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta, introduced in 1983 and licensed by Parfums Stern, is an olfactory masterpiece crafted by the skilled perfumers at Firmenich. This fragrance captures the essence of sophistication and elegance, reflecting the timeless allure synonymous with the Oscar de la Renta brand. With its intricate blend of notes, Ruffles embodies a harmonious symphony of scents, evoking a sense of luxury and refinement.

In a picturesque scene set in early 1982 Paris, the inception of the iconic fragrance Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta unfolded amidst the cobblestone alleys of the Marche aux Puces. Accompanied by Milton Stern, a discerning marketer, Oscar I de la Renta stumbled upon a captivating antique bottle with a distinctive ruffled cap. In a moment of inspiration, Stern exclaimed, "Oscar, that's it—Ruffles!" Thus, a new olfactory masterpiece was born.

The genesis of Ruffles as a name rather than a scent mirrors the creative genesis often found in the dynamic $2.4 billion fragrance industry. This anecdote below encapsulates the serendipitous fusion of artistic vision and marketing acumen that characterizes the birth of many timeless fragrances.

Business Week, 1984:

"It was a Saturday afternoon in Paris in early 1982. Fashion designer Oscar I de la Renta and a marketer named Milton Stern were strolling through the Marche aux Puces when Stern spotted an unusual antique bottle with a top shaped like a ruffle. "Oscar, that's it," Stern exclaimed. "Ruffles." And so was born a new perfume. That Ruffles began as a name, not a scent, is not unusual in the $2.4 billion fragrance business. 

Business Week, 1984:

"The inspiration for it came to the young perfume, Jean-Jacques Diener, while jogging on a rural road near Firmenich. Diener was familiar with what Stern wanted because he had pursued the fragrance for months before leaving Givaudan last year. As he jogged, Diener was mulling over the woody note of a traditional fragrance, Tabu. He had in mind mating it with floral "chords" for an overall semi-oriental scent. In a novel step, he also wanted to create two top notes - one spicy component using bay oil and nutmeg and one with floral chords of rose oil and such exotic ingredients as ylang ylang and neroli bigarade. A complex middle note would mix iris, tuberose, patchouli, and other components before amber and musk emerged last...."Even when I went home at night," he recalls, "I'd find fragrances waiting for me." Finally, in France, he selected one, pending final approval by de la Renta.  But when he returned to New York, he found Barry Young, vice president of Firmenich & Co. of Princeton, NJ, waiting practically on his doorstep. Young had in hand a scent created by a new employee, a 34 yr old Grasse trained perfumer who had left competitor Givaudan Corp. One sniff was all it took. "I liked it immediately - it was instant," says Stern. The fragrance, with slight modifications, became Ruffles."

In a tale of olfactory innovation and determination, the genesis of Ruffles emerges as a narrative woven with inspiration and dedication. Jean-Jacques Diener, the visionary perfumer, found himself struck by inspiration while jogging along a rural path near the renowned fragrance house, Firmenich. Drawing from his extensive experience and creative intuition, Diener envisioned a fragrance that seamlessly merged the woody essence of classics like Tabu with floral harmonies, crafting an alluring semi-oriental scent.

His creative process was meticulous, envisaging a symphony of scents with dual top notes, one spicy featuring bay oil and nutmeg, and the other floral, adorned with rose oil, ylang-ylang, and neroli bigarade. The complexity continued with a rich middle note, blending iris, tuberose, patchouli, and other select components before culminating in the warmth of amber and musk. Such dedication to craft consumed Diener, even in the quiet moments at home where fragrances beckoned his attention.

However, fate had another twist in store when Barry Young, representing Firmenich & Co., intercepted Diener upon his return to New York. Armed with a scent crafted by a talented newcomer—a 34-year-old perfumer trained in Grasse, France, and recently departed from rival Givaudan Corp.—Young's instinctual reaction mirrored Stern's immediate appreciation. With minor adjustments, this fragrance, born from serendipity and expert craftsmanship, ultimately transformed into the timeless essence known as Ruffles.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, basil, Italian mandarin, neroli bigarade, green note, grapefruit, orange, and bergamot
• Middle notes: marigold, geranium, jonquil, orange blossom, gardenia, carnation, tuberose, orris, orchid, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
• Base notes: Java vetiver, honey, Mysore sandalwood, musk, civet, vanilla, caramel and cedar

Ruffles by Oscar de la Renta is an exquisite fruity floral fragrance designed exclusively for women. Its enchanting composition unfolds in layers, beginning with a burst of fresh, fruity florals accented by basil and neroli bigarade, along with a medley of citrus fruits including bergamot, Italian mandarin, grapefruit, and orange. This vibrant opening sets the stage for a captivating journey through an exotic floral heart, where notes of geranium, jonquil, gardenia, jasmine, and marigold intertwine to create an alluring bouquet.

As the fragrance evolves, it gracefully transitions into a sweet and balsamic base, where the warmth of Mysore sandalwood and the earthiness of Java vetiver harmonize with subtle hints of honey and musk. The overall effect is one of timeless elegance and sophistication, making Ruffles a true embodiment of femininity and grace.

Bottle:

Ruffles, a fragrance that epitomizes luxury and sophistication, was not only a sensory delight but also a visual masterpiece. The iconic bottle, conceived by the renowned sculptor Serge Mansau in 1981, exuded elegance and timeless allure. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these bottles were brought to life in the esteemed ateliers of Pochet et du Courval in France, ensuring the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship.

Available in an array of exquisite formulations, Ruffles catered to every preference and occasion. From the opulent 1 oz Parfum, boasting a price tag of $130 per ounce in 1983, to the petite 1/4 oz Parfum, each variant offered a distinct olfactory experience. The range also included indulgent options like the 5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash, the convenient 3.3 oz and 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Sprays, and the whimsical 1/3 oz Eau de Toilette Crystal Hearts Pendant, which combined fragrance with fashion in a stunning accessory.

But Ruffles extended beyond mere fragrance, delving into the realm of skincare with the Silken Whispers Collection. This luxurious line, comprising the 1.5 oz Silken Whispers Body Wash and the 1.5 oz Silken Whispers Body Lotion, was more than just skincare; it was an indulgent ritual infused with the essence of spun sheer silk, promising a sensorial experience like no other. With Ruffles, every aspect of beauty and elegance was meticulously curated, ensuring that every encounter with the fragrance was nothing short of extraordinary.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Ruffles, the epitome of timeless elegance and sophistication, graced the fragrance landscape with its presence for a significant span, enchanting aficionados with its alluring scent and exquisite packaging. Although the precise date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery, records indicate that Ruffles continued to captivate consumers as late as 1993, a testament to its enduring appeal and unwavering popularity.

Despite its eventual departure from the market, Ruffles left an indelible mark on the fragrance industry, cherished by those who sought a fragrance that embodied refinement and luxury. Its legacy lives on in the memories of those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma, a fragrant ode to an era of timeless sophistication.

RUFFLES BY OSCAR DE LA RENTA