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Wednesday, June 9, 2021

Deja le Printemps by Oriza Legrand c1922

The perfume "Deja le Printemps" by Oriza L. Legrand, launched in 1922, carries a name that resonates deeply with the essence of springtime in Paris during that era.

During the 1920s in Paris, there was a cultural renaissance known as the "Années folles" or "Roaring Twenties," characterized by artistic innovation, social liberation, and a flourishing of literature, music, and fashion. This period saw a shift towards more daring and modern expressions in art and fashion, paralleled by the emergence of new fragrances that captured the spirit of the time.

The name of the perfume evokes a sense of anticipation and joy associated with the arrival of spring. It suggests that wearing this fragrance transports one to a state where spring is not just a season but a state of being—refreshing, invigorating, and full of promise. The scent likely combines floral notes that were popular during that era, possibly incorporating elements like jasmine, rose, or iris, which were beloved by perfumers of the time.


Furthermore, the choice of "Deja le Printemps" as a name for a perfume launched in 1922 also aligns with the broader cultural context of the interwar period in Paris. It reflects a longing for beauty, optimism, and a celebration of life after the turmoil of World War I. The perfume's name encapsulates the sentiment that despite challenges, the spirit of spring—of renewal and hope—can always be embraced and cherished.

In summary, "Deja le Printemps" as a perfume name launched in 1922 in Paris not only captures the olfactory essence of springtime but also resonates with the cultural milieu of the time, symbolizing a return to joy, beauty, and a newfound sense of freedom and creativity.


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral bouquet fragrance for women, sparkling and fresh with the essences of gardenia and lilac.  

  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus, lilac, lily-of-the-valley
  • Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, rose, violet  
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood


Scent Profile:


Imagine strolling through the iconic gardens of Paris, where each note of "Deja le Printemps" unfolds like a fragrant journey through lush blooms and sun-dappled pathways.

As you enter the garden, the air is crisp with the first hints of spring. Aldehydes create a clean, airy sensation, reminiscent of freshly laundered linen catching the breeze. Citrus notes dance around you, like the zest of lemons and oranges freshly plucked from nearby trees. But it's the lilac and lily-of-the-valley that truly capture your attention—they fill the air with delicate sweetness and the promise of new beginnings. The lilac bushes stand tall, their clusters of purple blossoms releasing a powdery floral aroma that is both elegant and uplifting. Meanwhile, lily-of-the-valley carpets the ground with its tiny, bell-shaped flowers, emitting a green, slightly sweet fragrance that whispers of innocence and purity.

As you continue your walk, the garden unfolds into a symphony of richer floral scents. Gardenia commands attention with its creamy, white petals exuding a heady, tropical aroma that lingers enticingly in the air. Jasmine adds its sultry allure, with its warm, floral sweetness that hints at twilight romance. Roses bloom in abundance, their velvety petals releasing a complex bouquet of fresh, spicy, and sweet notes that evoke timeless elegance and passion. Violets peek out from under leaves, their delicate purple flowers offering a powdery, slightly woody fragrance that is both calming and enchanting.

As you reach the heart of the garden, the base notes ground the fragrance in earthy richness. Oakmoss blankets the garden floor, its deep green scent reminiscent of damp forest floors after a gentle rain—a comforting and grounding presence that adds depth to the floral melody. Sandalwood whispers in the background, its warm, creamy woodiness adding a subtle touch of sensuality and sophistication, like the smooth, polished benches under ancient trees where you pause to take in the garden's tranquil beauty.

In the famous gardens of Paris, such as the Tuileries or Luxembourg Gardens, sights of meticulously manicured lawns, towering statues, and vibrant flower beds greet visitors. The sounds of birdsong mingle with the soft murmur of visitors enjoying leisurely walks or relaxing on wrought-iron chairs. The touch of cool marble fountains and the smoothness of petals under fingertips create a sensory experience that mirrors the layers and complexities found within "Deja le Printemps." This floral bouquet fragrance for women captures the essence of springtime in Paris—a blend of freshness, elegance, and timeless beauty that unfolds like a bouquet of flowers blooming under the Parisian sun.


Bottle:


The perfume "Deja le Printemps" is encased in a stunning bottle crafted by Baccarat, renowned for its exquisite crystal work. This particular vessel stands out as a masterpiece of artistry and elegance. Fashioned from clear crystal, both bottle and stopper gleam with a pristine clarity that captures and refracts light, enhancing its allure. 

The stopper is adorned with a gilt metal cover delicately cast in the form of a sunflower, its petals gracefully draping over the shoulders of the bottle. Atop this floral adornment rests a butterfly finial, perched within the disk floret of the sunflower, adding a whimsical and ethereal touch to the design. 

The meticulous craftsmanship is underscored by the Baccarat mark, a stamp of quality and luxury. Standing at 4 1/2 inches tall, this bottle not only preserves the precious fragrance within but also serves as a radiant objet d'art, embodying the essence of beauty and sophistication that defines both the perfume and its Parisian heritage.




"Deja le Printemps" offered a luxurious range of fragrant products, catering to different preferences and occasions with its exquisite blend. Available in both extrait and eau de toilette concentrations, the perfume ensured that its floral bouquet could be enjoyed in varying intensities, from a rich, long-lasting essence to a lighter, refreshing option suitable for everyday wear. Beyond these liquid forms, the fragrance extended its allure into scented talcum powder, face powder, and sachets, enriching daily routines with delicate layers of its captivating aroma. 

Each product, meticulously crafted to evoke the essence of springtime in Paris, allowed aficionados to immerse themselves in a sensory journey, whether through a lingering perfume, a gentle dusting of powder, or the subtle infusion of fragrance in their personal spaces. This diverse range not only showcased the versatility of "Deja le Printemps" but also underscored its commitment to offering luxurious experiences that complemented the beauty and elegance encapsulated in its iconic Baccarat bottle.







Fate of the Fragrance:


The original "Deja le Printemps" ceased production in 1943, a poignant year marked by the tumultuous backdrop of World War II. The impact of wartime conditions, including rationing of materials and shifts in manufacturing priorities towards wartime necessities, likely played a significant role in the perfume's discontinuation. During this period, many luxury goods, including perfumes, faced production challenges and restrictions due to shortages of ingredients and disruptions in supply chains. As a result, even cherished fragrances like "Deja le Printemps" were affected, leading to their withdrawal from the market. 

The year 1943 thus represents not only the end of availability for this iconic scent but also a reflection of the broader historical context that shaped its fate, illustrating how global events can influence even the world of luxury perfumery.


2012 Reformulation & Relaunch:

Deja Le Printemps by Oriza L. Legrand was relaunched in 2012. It was created by perfumer Hugo Lambert. From Oriza L. Legrand's website:

"A promenade in Nature, awakening after a long winter sleep. Beads of morning dew glisten on clovers and wild grass, which exhale fresh and green scents. The sun rises on the horizon and beats down wet flowers and new born fig leaves. Fresh foliage scrunches under the wind, buds bloom at last and the soil smells of turf and twisted roots. Daisies in the prairie and lily of the valley blossoming on moss fill the air with the perfumes of nature’s revival. At last spring has come" 


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. 

  • Top notes: mint, chamomile and orange blossom
  • Middle notes: fig leaf, grass, clover, galbanum and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver, moss and musk

Scent Profile:


The relaunched "Deja Le Printemps" by Oriza L. Legrand, crafted by perfumer Hugo Lambert in 2012, unfolds as a verdant floral symphony that evokes the essence of a blooming spring garden in full splendor.

Top Notes: Mint, Chamomile, Orange Blossom

Upon the initial spray, the fragrance bursts forth with invigorating notes of mint, lending a fresh and crisp aroma that awakens the senses. Chamomile adds a soothing herbal nuance, reminiscent of sunlit meadows in the early morning. Orange blossom contributes a sweet and floral touch, imbuing the composition with a delicate citrusy zest that enhances its vibrancy.

Middle Notes: Fig Leaf, Grass, Clover, Galbanum, Lily-of-the-Valley

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a lush green bouquet. Fig leaf unfolds with its green, milky facets, offering a rich and earthy aroma that suggests the presence of ancient trees in a tranquil garden setting. Grass and clover evoke the sensation of walking barefoot through dewy grass, their green and herbal notes enhancing the naturalistic feel. Galbanum adds a resinous quality, imbuing the scent with a hint of bitterness that balances the composition. Lily-of-the-valley, a quintessential spring flower, weaves its delicate floralcy throughout, adding a touch of freshness and innocence.

Base Notes: Cedar, Vetiver, Moss, Musk

In the dry down, the fragrance settles into a serene and grounding base. Cedarwood lends a woody warmth, reminiscent of the smooth bark of age-old trees. Vetiver adds an earthy depth, evoking the scent of freshly cut roots and damp soil. Moss contributes a green and mossy accord, evoking the cool shade of a forest grove. Musk provides a soft and sensuous undertone, wrapping the entire composition in a gentle embrace that lingers on the skin.

Overall, "Deja Le Printemps" reimagined in 2012 emerges as a green floral fragrance that celebrates the vitality and renewal of springtime. It invites wearers to experience a sensory journey through a sun-dappled garden, where each note harmonizes to create a vivid olfactory landscape of nature's bounty and timeless elegance.


1 comment:

  1. Incredible bottle design. Does the relaunched scent have the same bottle?

    ReplyDelete

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