Fath de Fath by Jacques Fath c1953

Jacques Fath, a pivotal figure in the world of fashion, made a significant mark on the industry during the mid-20th century. Fath, a French fashion designer, founded his haute couture house in Paris in 1937. His designs were celebrated for their sophisticated elegance, which captured the essence of post-war glamour. By the early 1950s, Fath was firmly established as one of the leading designers in Paris, known for his luxurious and imaginative creations that epitomized the high-fashion ideals of the era.

In 1953, amidst a booming post-war fashion renaissance, Jacques Fath launched his first perfume, Fath de Fath. This period was characterized by a growing fascination with luxury and refinement as the world emerged from the austerity of World War II. The 1950s were a time of cultural and economic recovery, and there was a strong emphasis on sophistication and opulence. Fashion houses were expanding their influence beyond clothing, delving into fragrances and beauty products to complement their brand’s image.

Fath de Fath was crafted by Jacques Bersia, a perfumer whose creation sought to encapsulate the elegance and sophistication that Fath’s fashion line was known for. The perfume was a reflection of its time—an era where style and elegance were paramount. The scent of Fath de Fath mirrored the chic, refined aesthetics of Fath's designs, offering a fragrance that was both modern and timeless, much like the haute couture collections that defined the designer's career.

The launch of Fath de Fath represented a harmonious blend of high fashion and fine fragrance, embodying the luxurious spirit of the 1950s and marking Jacques Fath's entry into the world of perfumery with a signature scent that complemented his reputation as a style icon.

Fath de Fath was available in the following products:

• 14ml Parfum
• 120 ml Eau de Toilette Spray
• 125 ml Eau de Toilette

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light, aldehydic floral oriental perfume for women with a dominant rose and jasmine facet resting on a chypre base. Jasmine, rose, iris, violet and other flowers are blended in this perfume to give a delicate aroma of light sophistication.

• Top notes: citron bark, aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, heliotrope, orange and green notes
• Middle notes: iris, gardenia, tea rose, Bulgarian rose, violet, Grasse jasmine, lilac, Grasse may rose, ylang ylang, carnation, tuberose, orange blossom and lily-of-the-valley 
• Base notes: orris, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar and benzoin

Combat, 1953:

"Fath de Fath - two sharp notes of vetiver and citron bark dominate a muted symphony where we recognize tea rose, jasmine, violet, cedar, gardenia and precious woods. The bedroom of des Essientes or Renée Vivien. Decor of a charming and desired aesthetic. Elegant disorder where, in the muffled light, a bottle of whiskey, the cards of a "patience", a preciously brocaded scarf, gloves, a baroque jewel, gold reliefs, singular tableaus and whispering voices still linger."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Fath de Fath, the top notes unfold with a zesty burst of citron bark and fresh bergamot. Imagine the invigorating scent of a crisp, sunny lemon combined with the subtle, tangy nuances of citron bark. The aldehydes bring a luminous quality, like a bright, sparkling veil that shimmers over the citrusy elements. Orange notes add a gentle sweetness, mingling with green accents that evoke the fresh, dewy sensation of a morning garden. Heliotrope imparts a soft, powdery sweetness, reminiscent of delicate petals kissed by the sun, enhancing the fragrance with a subtle, ethereal lift.

As the perfume evolves, the heart reveals an intricate bouquet of floral notes. The iris introduces a rich, velvety softness, its powdery essence enveloping you like a luxurious silk fabric. Gardenia adds a creamy, lush floral richness, blending seamlessly with the tea rose's soft, velvety texture and its delicate, tea-like aroma. Bulgarian rose emerges with its deep, romantic scent, mingling with Grasse jasmine's intoxicating, heady floral notes. Violet adds a hint of green, sweet freshness, while lilac introduces a soft, dreamy sweetness. The Grasse may rose brings a lush, nuanced rose scent, complemented by ylang-ylang's exotic, warm floral undertones. Carnation and tuberose contribute their spicy, opulent fragrance, and orange blossom adds a radiant, sunny sweetness. Lily-of-the-valley infuses a fresh, dewy aspect, rounding out the bouquet with a delicate, almost effervescent quality.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes unfold with a complex, warm blend. Orris, with its rich, velvety texture, imparts a sense of luxurious depth. Vetiver adds a smoky, earthy undertone, grounding the scent with its woody, slightly spicy aroma. Oakmoss contributes a mossy, forest-like quality, enhancing the fragrance with a natural, rugged sophistication. Sandalwood brings a creamy, smooth woodiness, while ambergris adds a warm, sensual depth. Tonka bean introduces a sweet, vanilla-like richness, complemented by patchouli’s earthy, spicy notes. Musk adds a subtle, animalic warmth, vanilla contributes its comforting sweetness, and cedar imparts a clean, woody finish. Benzoin wraps the fragrance in a resinous, balsamic quality, offering a final touch of warmth and depth.

In Fath de Fath, each ingredient weaves together to create a light, aldehydic floral oriental that exudes an air of delicate sophistication and timeless elegance.

Bottles:

L'Art et la mode- Issue 2760, 1954:

"Here are some his new fragrance " Fath de Fath's amber liquid and fragrant, glistening in its crystal bottle shaped like a gigantic solitaire."

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original version of Fath de Fath, first launched in 1953, represented a quintessential blend of aldehydic floral and chypre influences that captured the sophisticated spirit of its era. Its complex composition of rose, jasmine, and a rich base of woods and resins created a timeless fragrance that resonated with the elegance of mid-century Paris. Despite its discontinuation at an unknown date, the fragrance maintained its allure, with stocks still being sold as late as 1978. This enduring presence attested to its popularity and the lasting impact it had on the fragrance community.

1994 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1994, the classic Fath de Fath was reimagined by the renowned perfumer Mark Buxton in collaboration with Parfex. This reformulation aimed to modernize the original scent while preserving its sophisticated essence. The updated version incorporated contemporary ingredients that enhanced its longevity and sillage, aligning it with the evolving preferences of the 1990s. The reformulated fragrance was relaunched in new, updated packaging that reflected the sleek, modern aesthetics of the era. Available in both Parfum and Eau de Parfum concentrations, this revival provided both enthusiasts and new audiences with an opportunity to experience a refined version of the classic scent. The Parfum offered a more intense, concentrated form of the fragrance, ideal for those seeking a more luxurious experience, while the Eau de Parfum provided a lighter, yet still rich, interpretation of the scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral woody oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: marigold, orange blossom, aldehydes, blackcurrant, plum, mandarin orange, cassia, peach, pear, bergamot, lemon, tangerine and green notes
• Middle notes: violet, iris, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley
• Base notes: cinnamon, vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar and benzoin

Press materials describe the reformulated fragrance as "A sensual feminine fragrance. Oriental fatale, but totally contemporary. Like a piece of silk that clings to the skin. Top notes of citrus, bergamot, blackcurrant, velvety peaches, marigolds and orange blossoms. Middle notes of rose, white jasmine and violets. Finally, the base notes of sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, cinnamon, tonka bean and vanilla."

L'Événement du jeudi, Issues 626-629, 1996:

"BEAUTY Parfum de fruits. This is the new version of " Fath de Fath 'cologne by Jacques Fath. A cheerful and sophisticated lightweight version, which combines, among other fragrances, tangerine, pear, rose, lily and vanilla."

Scent Profile:

As you experience the top notes of the reformulated Fath de Fath, you're immediately greeted by a vibrant, fruity medley. The marigold adds a subtly spicy, slightly floral scent that dances with the zesty brightness of mandarin orange and bergamot. Blackcurrant introduces a deep, tangy sweetness, mingling effortlessly with the ripe, lush aroma of plum and the juicy, nectarous quality of peach and pear. The citrus notes of lemon and tangerine offer a refreshing, tangy burst, while the aldehydes contribute a crisp, effervescent quality that enhances the freshness of the fruit. Cassia adds a hint of warm spice, blending with the green notes to evoke a sense of dewy foliage and early morning air.

Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes reveal a luxurious floral bouquet. Violet imparts a soft, powdery sweetness, seamlessly blending with the rich, velvety texture of iris. Rose adds a classic, romantic essence, its rich, lush petals intertwining with the heady, exotic scent of jasmine. Ylang ylang brings an opulent, warm floral note, while tuberose introduces a creamy, intoxicating depth. Heliotrope adds a delicate, sweet powderiness, and lily-of-the-valley provides a fresh, green floral touch, evoking the gentle, dewy quality of a spring garden.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge with a warm, sensual richness. Cinnamon offers a spicy, slightly sweet aroma that complements the earthy, woody scent of vetiver. Sandalwood brings a smooth, creamy woodiness, enhancing the fragrance with its refined, sophisticated character. Ambergris adds a deep, sensual warmth, while tonka bean contributes a sweet, vanilla-like richness. Patchouli imparts an earthy, aromatic depth, and musk adds a subtle, animalic warmth. Vanilla introduces a comforting, creamy sweetness, cedar provides a clean, woody finish, and benzoin wraps everything in a resinous, balsamic embrace.

In this reformulated Fath de Fath, the combination of these ingredients creates a fragrance that is both sensual and contemporary, embodying a sophisticated, modern elegance that clings to the skin like a piece of silk. The cheerful, sophisticated blend of fruity, floral, and woody notes offers a balanced, yet captivating olfactory experience.

Bottles:

In the photo collage, you can observe the distinct differences between the original vintage Fath de Fath and its 1994 reformulated and repackaged version. The original bottle, with its classic design, reflects the elegant simplicity of the 1950s with its clean lines and understated sophistication. In contrast, the 1994 reformulated version showcases a more modern aesthetic, characterized by its updated packaging that incorporates contemporary design elements. One notable feature is the brass ring adorning the collar of the newer bottle, which adds a touch of refined luxury and a hint of vintage charm, bridging the gap between the classic heritage of the original and the modern sensibilities of the reformulation. This brass detail not only enhances the visual appeal of the bottle but also signifies the modern twist given to a timeless fragrance.