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Wednesday, January 19, 2022

Vacances by Jean Patou c1934

"Vacances" perfume by Jean Patou holds a significant place in the fragrance world, debuting in either 1934 or 1936, with the latter marking the trademarking of its name by Patou. The scent was crafted by Henri Almeras, a renowned perfumer of his time. "Vacances" translates to "vacations" in French, a fitting title for a fragrance that celebrates a pivotal moment in French history: the establishment of mandatory paid vacation. It symbolizes a luxurious getaway encapsulated in a bottle, evoking the essence of leisure and relaxation amidst the hustle and bustle of everyday life.





"Vacances" by Jean Patou was a versatile fragrance, offered in both parfum and eau de toilette formulations. This ensured that fragrance enthusiasts could experience its luxurious aroma in various intensities, from the rich and concentrated parfum to the lighter and more refreshing eau de toilette. Whether seeking a long-lasting scent with depth and complexity or a subtle yet invigorating aroma, patrons could find their perfect match within the "Vacances" range, adding an extra layer of choice and personalization to their olfactory journey.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? it is a green floral perfume with a dominant note of sweet lilac and clover.  
  • Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, red clover and hawthorn
  • Heart notes: sweet pea, carnation, honey, lilac, mimosa, rose, heliotrope and galbanum
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss and musk 

"Vacances" by Jean Patou is a captivating green floral perfume, characterized by a lush bouquet of scents with a prominent note of sweet lilac and clover. Designed to evoke the essence of a leisurely vacation, its fragrance composition is both sophisticated and refreshing.

The top notes burst forth with a blend of aldehydes, hyacinth, red clover, and hawthorn, creating an invigorating opening that sets the stage for the olfactory journey to come. As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes unfold, revealing a delicate and enchanting harmony of sweet pea, carnation, honey, lilac, mimosa, rose, heliotrope, and galbanum, offering a rich tapestry of floral aromas that dance on the skin.

Finally, the base notes of Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, and musk provide a warm and sensual foundation, grounding the fragrance with depth and sophistication. This exquisite blend is not only a delight to the senses but also carries a subtle suggestion, as it was recommended to be worn by blondes, adding a touch of personalization to its allure.









Harper's Bazaar, 1934:
""Vacances" is the latest Patou perfume. It is dry and has a very French air. It is not one of those sweet scents that get so tiresome."

The New Yorker, 1934:
"The arrival of a new Patou perfume is always an event. Patou's scents have a way of making handsome, witty, and wealthy men not only ask for your phone number but also remember it the next day. The latest, Vacances, is a feminine and lovely effort with a note of sweet pea dominating unless my nostrils deceive me."

The New Yorker, 1934:
"Perfumes - There has been an extraordinary swing of the pendulum this year toward the sweet, light, and floral perfumes. Their come-hither is not obvious, but it is deadly in a blonde kind of way. Patou's Vacances smells like clover t its most glamourous."
These vintage reviews from Harper's Bazaar and The New Yorker provide fascinating insights into the reception of "Vacances" by Jean Patou in 1934:

From Harper's Bazaar:
Described as dry with a distinctively French essence, "Vacances" stands out for its departure from overly sweet scents, offering a refreshing alternative. This characterization suggests a sophisticated and refined fragrance that exudes an air of elegance and charm.

From The New Yorker:
Patou's reputation for creating captivating scents that leave a lasting impression on the senses and on those around the wearer is highlighted. "Vacances" is praised for its feminine and delightful quality, with a dominant note of sweet pea adding to its allure. The mention of its appeal to wealthy men adds a layer of intrigue and sophistication to its reputation.

The swing towards sweet, light, and floral perfumes is noted, with "Vacances" standing out as a prime example of this trend. Its subtle yet alluring fragrance is described as deadly in a blonde kind of way, suggesting a seductive quality that is both understated and irresistible. The comparison to clover at its most glamorous further emphasizes its natural yet sophisticated allure.


Bottles:




Fate of the Fragrance:


The original formula of "Vacances" by Jean Patou was discontinued at some point, with the exact date of discontinuation remaining unknown. However, despite its original formulation no longer being in production, "Vacances" continued to be available for purchase as late as 1969, showcasing its enduring popularity and timeless appeal. Despite any alterations or reformulations that may have occurred over the years, the fragrance retained its allure, captivating fragrance enthusiasts for decades after its initial launch.


1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:


The perfume was reformulated by Jean Kerleo and relaunched in 1984 as part of the exclusive Ma Collection, reissued scents from Patou's catalog of discontinued perfumes as well as some new editions.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: hyacinth and hawthorn
  • Middle notes: lilac, mimosa, and galbanum
  • Base notes: musk

The reformulated version of "Vacances" maintained its essence as a captivating green floral fragrance for women.

This rejuvenated rendition unfolds with invigorating top notes of hyacinth and hawthorn, evoking the freshness of a blooming garden in spring. As the fragrance blossoms, it reveals a heart of delicate floral notes, including lilac, mimosa, and galbanum, lending an enchanting and feminine allure that captures the essence of nature's beauty.

The base notes of musk provide a soft and sensual finish, adding depth and sophistication to the fragrance while ensuring a lasting impression. Overall, this reformulated version of "Vacances" retains the spirit of the original scent while infusing it with modern elegance, offering a timeless olfactory experience for discerning women.

"Vacances" by Jean Patou, in its reformulated version as part of the Ma Collection, is offered in a range of sizes and formulations to cater to diverse preferences:

  • 1 oz Parfum: A luxurious and concentrated formulation, perfect for those who prefer a rich and long-lasting fragrance experience.
  • 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash: A generous size of the eau de toilette formulation, ideal for those who enjoy a refreshing and invigorating splash-on application.
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray: A convenient spray format for effortless and precise application, providing a fine mist of fragrance for a subtle yet captivating scent.
  • 0.20 oz Eau de Toilette Splash Mini Bottle: A miniature version of the eau de toilette, perfect for travel or sampling the scent before committing to a larger size.

With these various options, fragrance enthusiasts can choose the size and application method that best suits their lifestyle and preferences, ensuring that they can enjoy the alluring aroma of "Vacances" wherever they go.

2014 Reformulation & Relaunch:

Vacances was reformulated by Thomas Fontaine and relaunched in 2014 as part of the Heritage Collection, a line of reformulated and relaunched Jean Patou classic fragrances.

So what does it smell like? This version is described as a Floral Green fragrance.
  • Top notes: fresh, green forest accords
  • Middle notes: delicate florals
  • Base notes: powder

The reformulated version of "Vacances" by Jean Patou, reintroduced in 2014 as part of the Heritage Collection, continues to captivate with its Floral Green fragrance profile.

Opening with a burst of freshness reminiscent of a verdant forest, the top notes of this rendition evoke the crispness of green leaves and the vibrancy of nature. This invigorating introduction sets the stage for the delicate florals that grace the heart of the fragrance, offering a bouquet of blossoms that exude elegance and charm.

As the scent evolves, the base notes emerge, imparting a soft and comforting powdery finish that adds depth and sophistication to the overall composition. This interplay of fresh greenery, delicate florals, and subtle powder creates a harmonious olfactory experience that is both timeless and enchanting.

With its reformulated formula crafted by perfumer Thomas Fontaine, "Vacances" in the Heritage Collection continues to honor the legacy of Jean Patou's classic fragrances while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonates with modern sensibilities.

Unfortunately, all of the Jean Patou fragrances were discontinued in 2022.

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