Arlequinade by Rosine c1919

Arlequinade by Rosine is a timeless fragrance that first graced the olfactory landscape in 1919, marking its debut in the United States by the illustrious year of 1923. Crafted by the masterful hands of Henri Alméras, this scent embodies a symphony of nuanced notes that dance harmoniously on the skin.

Poiret's artistic vision for the fragrance Poiret draws inspiration from the avant-garde movements of the early 20th century, particularly the revolutionary Cubist paintings that adorned his collection. At the heart of this inspiration lies "The Harlequin" by Pablo Picasso, an emblematic representation of the Cubist style that captivated Poiret's imagination.

Just as Picasso deconstructed traditional forms in his paintings, Poiret sought to deconstruct the conventional notions of perfumery, creating a scent that defies expectations and challenges the senses. The essence of the commedia dell'arte, with its vibrant characters and whimsical narratives, serves as a muse for Poiret's olfactory masterpiece.

In the fragrance, one can discern echoes of Picasso's bold strokes and geometric shapes, translated into a symphony of contrasting notes that dance harmoniously on the skin. Like the intricate layers of a Cubist composition, Poiret's perfume unfolds in a multifaceted tapestry of scents, each revealing a new facet of its complex character.

Hints of bergamot and citrus evoke the playful energy of the Harlequin, while exotic spices and aromatic herbs lend a sense of mystery and intrigue. As the fragrance develops, delicate floral notes emerge, reminiscent of the elegant costumes worn by the characters of the commedia dell'arte.

In the background, the haunting strains of Stravinsky's music linger, infusing the scent with a sense of rhythm and movement. Just as Stravinsky revolutionized the world of classical music with his innovative compositions, Poiret's perfume pushes the boundaries of traditional perfumery, offering a sensory experience that is at once modern and timeless.

Poiret's fragrance is more than just a scent; it is a work of art in its own right, a testament to the creative genius of its namesake and the rich tapestry of influences that shaped his vision. With its boldness and originality, Poiret's perfume continues to captivate and inspire, inviting the wearer to embark on a journey of self-expression and discovery.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a piquant, woody floral amber fragrance for women. 

It was described in 1928 as "for the piquant type, with rather dark hair and gray green eyes, an intriguing blend which has the rare spicy sweet fragrance of old fashioned, velvety petunias mixed with other garden flowers."

• Top notes: aldehydes, clove, bergamot, petunia, hibiscus, citrus
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose,  labdanum, tuberose
• Base notes: oakmoss, myrrh, opoponax, spices, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka

Scent Profile:

Arlequinade is a fragrance that tantalizes the senses with its unique blend of spicy, floral, and woody notes, creating an olfactory experience that is both captivating and alluring. Classified as a piquant, woody floral amber fragrance for women, it exudes an air of sophistication and mystery.

At first spray, the scent bursts forth with a lively combination of aldehydes, clove, and bergamot, setting the stage for the intricate layers that follow. Petunia and hibiscus add a touch of sweetness to the top notes, while citrus undertones provide a refreshing contrast.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a rich bouquet of carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, and tuberose, infusing the composition with an opulent floral aroma. Labdanum adds depth and warmth, while hints of spices lend a subtle hint of intrigue.

The base of Arlequinade is where its true complexity shines. Oakmoss, myrrh, and opoponax form a luxurious foundation, their earthy and resinous qualities creating a sense of depth and sophistication. Ambergris and musk add a sensual allure, while sandalwood, patchouli, and tonka bean provide a creamy and comforting finish.

Central to the fragrance's composition is the unusual base of "Opoponax LG," manufactured by Givaudan, which imbues Arlequinade with its distinctive character. Combined with a low level of the C-12 MNA aldehyde, this base gives the scent facets of fresh amber, aldehydes, moss, citrus, tuberose, metallic, waxy, and coumarin, resulting in a truly unique olfactory profile.

Described in 1928 as "for the piquant type, with rather dark hair and gray green eyes," Arlequinade evokes a sense of intrigue and allure. Its fragrance is reminiscent of old-fashioned, velvety petunias mixed with other garden flowers, painting a picture of timeless elegance and romance.

In summary, Arlequinade is a fragrance that defies convention, inviting the wearer on a journey of discovery and self-expression. With its complex blend of notes and its rich, evocative aroma, it continues to captivate and inspire, leaving an indelible impression wherever it goes.

Bottles:

The perfume bottle designed by Arlequinade drew direct inspiration from the harlequin costume crafted by the artist Marie Vasilyeff.

The Gazette Times - Oct 26, 1924:

"Paris sends us these alluring perfumes, created by Rosine, a master perfumer. Only French genius can produce such distinctive odeurs, contained in artistic flasks, charmingly packaged...  Arlequinade, in gold decorated flask, with red tassel. $25."

In the Gazette Times edition dated October 26, 1924, readers were treated to a glimpse of the allure of Parisian perfumery through the enchanting creations of Rosine, hailed as a master perfumer of the era. The article exudes admiration for the distinctiveness of French perfumery, suggesting that only the unparalleled genius of French craftsmanship could yield such captivating fragrances.

Among the fragrant treasures highlighted in the article is Arlequinade, a scent that undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the olfactory landscape of the time. Described as being housed in an exquisitely adorned gold flask, complete with a charming red tassel, Arlequinade is portrayed as the epitome of elegance and sophistication.

Priced at $25, this fragrance is not merely a perfume but a luxurious indulgence, encapsulating the essence of Parisian chic and refinement. It is a testament to the artistry of Rosine and the enduring appeal of French perfumery, offering a sensory experience that transcends time and place.

With its alluring scent and exquisite presentation, Arlequinade undoubtedly captured the imagination of readers, inviting them to partake in the intoxicating world of haute couture fragrance. It's a reminder of the enduring allure of Parisian glamour and the timeless appeal of a beautifully crafted scent.

Arlequinade's exquisite presentation was inspired directly by the whimsical character of Harlequin, the bottle itself was a work of art, designed by the visionary Julien Viard. Adorned with gilded triangles reminiscent of Harlequin's colorful costume, the bottle exuded a sense of playful elegance.

The crowning glory of the bottle was its Bakelite cap, fashioned in the shape of a tricorne hat, a nod to the iconic headwear associated with the commedia dell'arte character. This attention to detail extended to the silky tassel delicately tied around the neck, adding a touch of opulence to the overall presentation

In 1923, the presentation of Arlequinade underwent a transformation, elevating its already luxurious packaging to new heights. The prismatic bottle was now housed in a lavish gold-lined casket, further embellished with Venetian motifs printed in striking shades of gold and coral red. This addition not only enhanced the allure of the perfume but also underscored its association with the vibrant world of Venetian masquerade balls.

Despite its opulent presentation, Arlequinade remained accessible to those who sought to indulge in its splendor. Priced at $25 in 1924, it offered a taste of luxury that was within reach for discerning consumers of the time.

In summary, Arlequinade's allure extended beyond its enchanting fragrance, encompassing every aspect of its presentation. From the whimsical design of the bottle to the lavish packaging, it encapsulated the essence of luxury and sophistication, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in a world of timeless elegance and allure.

Fate of the Fragrances:

Picture yourself strolling through the streets of Paris in the early 20th century, where the air is imbued with a sense of whimsy and sophistication. Arlequinade captures the essence of this era, encapsulating the vivacious spirit of the Roaring Twenties with its elegant blend of fragrant elements.

At its heart lies a bouquet of delicate florals, where the intoxicating aroma of jasmine intertwines with the soft sweetness of rose petals, creating a scent that is both feminine and alluring. This floral symphony is accented by hints of citrus, adding a touch of brightness and freshness to the composition.

As the fragrance settles on the skin, subtle notes of powdery iris emerge, lending a soft and comforting quality to the overall aroma. Finally, a base of warm amber and sensual musk provides a seductive undertone, lingering on the senses long after the initial application.

Arlequinade is more than just a fragrance; it is a journey through time, evoking the glamour and charm of a bygone era. With its intricate blend of ingredients and timeless appeal, it continues to captivate the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts around the world, a true testament to the enduring legacy of its creator, Henri Alméras.

 Despite its eventual discontinuation in 1930, Arlequinade remained a cherished gem in the world of perfumery, its allure enduring through the years. Evidence of its continued presence in the market can be found in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico, dated 1929, where it was listed alongside other esteemed Rosine perfumes.

This esteemed collection included fragrances such as Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Avenue du Bois, and more, each encapsulating the timeless elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Rosine brand. Arlequinade stood out among these olfactory treasures, its enchanting blend of notes capturing the imagination of discerning perfume enthusiasts.

However, despite its popularity, Arlequinade met its final curtain call in 1930, marking the end of an era for this beloved fragrance. Remaining stock was liquidated at drastically reduced clearance prices, allowing enthusiasts one last opportunity to indulge in its captivating aroma before bidding it farewell.

Yet, even as it faded from the shelves, the legacy of Arlequinade endured, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumery. Its distinctive blend of spicy notes, powdery white flowers, and animalic base had captivated the hearts of many, ensuring its place in the annals of fragrance history.

Though no longer readily available, Arlequinade lives on in the memories of those who had the pleasure of experiencing its enchanting aroma, a testament to its enduring appeal and timeless allure.