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Tuesday, March 29, 2022

Vivre by Molyneux c1931

"Vivre" by Molyneux, launched in 1931, was a fragrance that encapsulated the spirit of its time. Created by renowned French fashion designer Edward Molyneux, it sought to capture the essence of living life to its fullest, hence the name "Vivre," which means "to live" in French.

The fragrance was designed to evoke a sense of elegance, sophistication, and joie de vivre, reflecting the glamorous and vibrant atmosphere of the 1930s. Its composition likely included a blend of floral and citrus notes, with possibly hints of spice or woods to add depth and complexity.

As with many perfumes of its era, "Vivre" would have been packaged in an ornate bottle, reflecting the luxury and allure of the fragrance inside. It would have been marketed towards fashionable women who embraced the modernity and optimism of the interwar period.

While specific details about the scent's formulation and marketing campaigns from that time may be scarce, the legacy of "Vivre" likely lives on through vintage perfume collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its historical significance and timeless appeal.







Fragrance Composition:


So what does the original smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance for women and described as "lively garden flowers" and I imagine it had a touch of aldehydes, which was popular at the time to make a floral perfume sparkle.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, orange
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, syringa, hyacinth
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver
The original "Vivre" by Molyneux, launched in 1931, was indeed a classic floral fragrance for women, crafted to embody the vivacious spirit of the era. Drawing inspiration from the lush beauty of a blooming garden, it blended the freshness of citrus with the richness of floral and woody notes, creating a scent that was both vibrant and elegant.

Top Notes:

  • Aldehydes: These would have lent a sparkling and effervescent quality to the opening, adding a touch of brightness and sophistication.
  • Orange: Providing a burst of citrus freshness, the orange notes would have added a sunny, uplifting vibe to the initial impression of the fragrance.

Middle Notes:

  • Jasmine: Known for its intoxicatingly sweet and floral aroma, jasmine would have infused "Vivre" with a heady, romantic allure.
  • Rose: A timeless symbol of femininity and romance, rose would have contributed a soft, delicate floral accord to the heart of the fragrance.
  • Syringa (Lilac): Adding a hint of sweetness and freshness reminiscent of springtime, syringa would have enhanced the floral bouquet, contributing to the overall vibrancy of the scent.
  • Hyacinth: With its lush, green aroma and subtle spicy undertones, hyacinth would have lent depth and complexity to the floral composition.

Base Notes:

  • Sandalwood: Renowned for its creamy, smooth scent, sandalwood would have provided a warm and velvety backdrop, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of sophistication and sensuality.
  • Oakmoss: Adding a touch of earthiness and depth, oakmoss would have contributed a green, slightly woody aroma, enhancing the natural, outdoorsy feel of the scent.
  • Vetiver: With its smoky, earthy nuances, vetiver would have added a touch of mystery and intrigue to the base, complementing the floral notes with its complex, aromatic profile.

Combined, these notes would have created a harmonious bouquet that evoked the essence of a lush garden in full bloom, capturing the joie de vivre of the era with its lively, feminine charm.


Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 115, 1931:
"Les Parfums de Molyneux of Paris, have introduced a new creation in Vivre, a perfume of outstanding merit, which, as our illustration shows, is presented in a manner simple yet attractive. Vivre is available in four sizes. Other Molyneux products include Vogue, Le Numero Cinq, Fete and Le Chic de Molyneux. Full particulars of these and other Molyneux fines are obtainable from the sole sale-; agent and distributor for the United Kingdom. GE Davies, 58 Newman Street, Oxford Street, London."


Harper's Bazaar, 1931:
"At the lower left Molyneux's latest, "Vivre," a lively floral odor. Next Guerlain's "Liu" in its sable Chinese box, a master's creation. Above, the square bottle of Caron's "Bellodgia," modern and ingratiating."


In 1931, "Vivre" by Molyneux made a splash in the world of perfumery, garnering attention and praise for its outstanding quality and elegant presentation. Reviews and mentions in prominent publications of the time shed light on its allure and standing among other notable fragrances.

"Chemist and Druggist," a publication catering to the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry, highlighted "Vivre" as a perfume of exceptional quality from Les Parfums de Molyneux of Paris. Described as a creation of outstanding merit, the fragrance was praised for its simplicity yet attractive presentation. Available in four sizes, "Vivre" was positioned as a sophisticated choice among Molyneux's lineup of fragrances, which included esteemed names like Vogue, Le Numero Cinq, Fete, and Le Chic de Molyneux. The distribution in the United Kingdom was handled exclusively by GE Davies, located at 58 Newman Street, Oxford Street, London.

Meanwhile, "Harper's Bazaar," a prestigious fashion and lifestyle magazine, placed "Vivre" alongside other esteemed fragrances of the time. Described as a "lively floral odor," "Vivre" occupied a notable position among fragrance connoisseurs. Its presence in such esteemed company, alongside Guerlain's "Liu" and Caron's "Bellodgia," spoke to its status as a fragrance of distinction and sophistication.

These mentions in reputable publications of the era underscored "Vivre" by Molyneux's reputation as a fragrance of exceptional quality and appeal, further solidifying its place in the annals of perfumery history.



The New Yorker - Volume 25 - Page 80, 1949:
"Rue Royale. This famous French perfume is bottled and sealed in Paris. Now available in America's better stores. Magnificence $6 to $65- Fete $5 to $25. Vivre $5 to $25. Le Parfum Connu de Molyneux $6 to $52. MOLYNEUX PERFUME DIST. INC."

In "The New Yorker" volume 25, dated 1949, Molyneux's fragrances continued to captivate consumers, with "Vivre" being one of the notable offerings. The advertisement highlighted Rue Royale, a renowned French perfume, emphasizing its Parisian origin and availability in America's upscale retail establishments.

The pricing range provided insight into the accessibility and luxury appeal of Molyneux's fragrances:

  • Magnificence: Priced between $6 to $65, indicating a range of options suitable for various budgets and preferences, catering to discerning clientele.
  • Fete: Available at a price range of $5 to $25, positioning it as an accessible yet sophisticated choice for fragrance enthusiasts.
  • Vivre: Similarly priced between $5 to $25, suggesting that it offered a balance of affordability and elegance, making it an attractive option for consumers seeking quality perfumes.
  • Le Parfum Connu de Molyneux: Priced between $6 to $52, reflecting the premium quality and prestige associated with Molyneux's signature scent.

The advertisement also indicated the presence of Molyneux Perfume Dist. Inc., serving as the distributor for Molyneux perfumes in the United States. This information would have guided consumers interested in purchasing Molyneux fragrances, ensuring accessibility through established distribution channels.

Altogether, the advertisement in "The New Yorker" provided a glimpse into the popularity and availability of Molyneux's fragrances in the American market during the mid-20th century, showcasing "Vivre" as a compelling option among the brand's offerings.


Fate of the Fragrance:


During World War II, the exportation of "Vivre" to the USA was halted, disrupting its availability on American shores until 1948. Despite this interruption, some remaining stock of "Vivre" was sold in 1941, as evidenced by a newspaper advertisement from that time. This temporary hiatus in availability likely added to the allure and nostalgia surrounding the fragrance for American consumers.

However, "Vivre" faced discontinuation in the 1960s, marking the end of its initial era. The fragrance's absence from the market was not permanent, though. In 1971, "Vivre" was revitalized and reimagined under the expertise of perfumer Max Gavarry, who reformulated it under the auspices of International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). This relaunch breathed new life into the beloved scent, reintroducing it to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts while maintaining its essence and legacy.

Max Gavarry's involvement in the reformulation brought a fresh perspective to "Vivre," ensuring that it remained relevant and captivating amidst evolving trends and preferences in the fragrance industry. This revival allowed "Vivre" to reclaim its status as a timeless classic, cherished for its enduring charm and elegance.







Jardin des Arts, 1971:
"Gérard-Yves Cahier, Director for France Perfume Molyneux surrounded by his Parisian team: Ms. Ancel, Roger Moreau, Jean-Pierre Boyer, France, Raymond van Dorselaere, Florence, presents Mr. Pierre Broc CEO and Jean-Marie Savage Creative Director and Advertising, Perfume bottle - Vivre Molyneux - specially made by Cristalleries Baccarat and banded with white gold, for His Imperial Majesty the Shanbanou of Iran for the annual charity event Bal des Petit Lits Blancs which benefits children with tuberculosis occurring at Persepolis, October 28, 1971."


In 1971, "Vivre" by Molyneux was reintroduced with a remarkable event that showcased its elegance and philanthropic spirit. The occasion, captured in Jardin des Arts magazine, featured Gérard-Yves Cahier, Director for France Perfume Molyneux, along with his Parisian team, including notable individuals such as Ms. Ancel, Roger Moreau, Jean-Pierre Boyer, France, Raymond van Dorselaere, and Florence. They presented "Vivre" in a special edition perfume bottle, crafted by the prestigious Cristalleries Baccarat and adorned with white gold accents.

The occasion was particularly noteworthy as the specially crafted "Vivre" bottle was destined for His Imperial Majesty the Shanbanou of Iran for the annual charity event Bal des Petit Lits Blancs. This event, held at Persepolis on October 28, 1971, aimed to benefit children suffering from tuberculosis, highlighting the fragrance's association with philanthropy and social causes.

This event not only underscored the luxurious and charitable aspects of "Vivre" but also emphasized its enduring appeal and significance within the world of perfumery. The collaboration between Molyneux, Cristalleries Baccarat, and the charity event exemplified the fragrance's status as a symbol of sophistication and generosity, further cementing its place in the hearts of fragrance aficionados worldwide.

The Launch:


In 1971, the House of Molyneux in Paris introduced a new fragrance, "Vivre," making its world debut in Toronto. Marketed as an exclusive and luxurious scent, "Vivre" was priced between $8.75 for one-sixth of an ounce to $60 for 2 ounces, targeting the upper-income bracket. The launch in Toronto was supported by comprehensive marketing strategies, including public relations efforts, point-of-purchase displays, and sampling initiatives in department stores, ensuring widespread exposure and appeal to discerning consumers.


Marketing, Volume 76, 1971:

"Paris perfume world debut in Toronto A NEW perfume by House of Molyneux, Paris, France, is making its world debut in Toronto, supported by public relations, point of purchase and sampling in department stores. Called Vivre, and priced between $8.75 for one sixth of an ounce to $60 for 2 ounces.The perfume is aimed at the upper income bracket."


The fragrance itself was described in Jardin des Arts as a complex and sophisticated composition, incorporating rare and exotic notes to create an enchanting olfactory experience. Tropical plants contributed their hidden sap, while aromatic woods added a wild flavor, complementing the brilliant sweetness of Bulgarian rose and the bittersweet essence of orange. This intricate blend of ingredients resulted in a scent that transcended simplicity, offering new thrills with each application.


Jardin des Arts, 1971:

"Vivre by Molyneux is not a simple scent. Its creators have long sought  rare notes which are new thrills. Tropical Plants gave their hidden sap, aromatic wood marry their wild flavor to the brilliant sweetness of Bulgarian rose, the romantic tenderness of the flower is united with bittersweet orange."


Country Life magazine highlighted "Vivre" as a unique perfume based on an unusual formula, featuring thick-leaved Mexican plants, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, and a secret spice. This description hinted at the fragrance's exotic and multifaceted nature, further enhancing its allure and mystique.


Country Life, 1972:

"Vivre, the new perfume from Molyneux, is based on an unusual formula of thick-leaved Mexican plants, jasmine, Bulgarian rose and a secret spice."


Mademoiselle magazine captured the essence of "Vivre" as a vital and romantic scent that might transport the wearer to another realm. The delicate blend of Bulgarian roses, tea flowers, orange blossoms, woods, and spice created a captivating aroma encapsulated in a flame-edged cut-glass flacon, emphasizing the fragrance's elegance and sophistication.


Mademoiselle, 1972:

"Vivre by Molyneux just might transport you. Vivre, it means to 'live'. It's a vital romantic scent made from a delicate blend of Bulgarian roses, tea flowers, orange blossoms, woods and spice. The perfume's captured in a flame-edged cut-glass flacon."


The extraordinary luxury associated with "Vivre" was exemplified by an entry in the New Guinness Book of Records in 1972, noting the sale of the most expensive bottle of perfume—a giant-sized bottle of "Vivre" by Molyneux, sold by Neiman Marcus of Dallas, Texas, for $4,500 (£1,875). This remarkable achievement underscored the prestige and exclusivity of the fragrance, solidifying its place in the annals of perfumery history.


New Guinness Book of Records - Page 88, 1972:

" The most expensive bottle of perfume sold is the outsize bottle of Vivre by Molyneux of Paris sold by Neiman Marcus of Dallas, Texas in 1972 for $4,500 (£1,875)."


 In 1973, "Vivre" by Molyneux continued to be offered in various forms and sizes, catering to different preferences and budgets. According to The Bulletin:

  • Perfume Atomiser: Priced at $14.95, with refills available for $12.95.
  • Eau de Toilette: Available in three sizes—$9.50, $13.95, and $21.00.
  • Eau de Toilette Atomiser: Priced at $14.95.


In 1981, Playbill highlighted "Vivre" as a fragrance that empowered women to embrace life fully. It was described as a scent that captivated men, further emphasizing its allure and appeal.

According to Product Marketing and Cosmetic & Fragrance Retailing in the same year, "Vivre" by Les Parfums de Molyneux (Henry Calisher) was offered in a wide range of sizes and accompanying products:

  • Perfume: Available in various sizes ranging from 0.125 oz (3.7ml) for $13.00 to 2.0 oz (60ml) for $165.00.
  • Eau de Toilette Natural Spray: Offered in a 1.5 oz (44ml) size for $20.00.
  • Other Products: Additional products included soap, foam bath, and body lotion, providing consumers with options to indulge in the "Vivre" experience beyond fragrance alone.

These listings from different sources and years provide a comprehensive overview of the availability and pricing of "Vivre" by Molyneux, showcasing its enduring popularity and versatility among consumers.



Fragrance Composition:


Notes at a Glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women.  
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bittersweet orange, tea blossom, coriander, leafy green note, coriander, angelica, bergamot, citrus zest
  • Middle notes: Florentine iris, orange blossom, jasmine, hyacinth, Bourbon Island ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley,  Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: spices, leather, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver and myrrh.


Scent Profile:

"Vivre" by Molyneux is a captivating aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women, offering a sophisticated and modern blend that unfolds in layers of exquisite aromas. Let's delve into its olfactory profile:

Top Notes:

  • Aldehydes: Providing a sparkling and effervescent opening, adding a touch of sophistication and allure.
  • Bittersweet Orange: Infusing the composition with a vibrant and tangy citrus freshness, creating an invigorating top note.
  • Tea Blossom: Contributing a delicate and nuanced floral aroma, enhancing the complexity of the fragrance.
  • Coriander: Adding a subtle hint of spice and warmth, complementing the citrus and floral notes.
  • Leafy Green Note: Evoking the lushness of nature, bringing a verdant and refreshing quality to the opening.
  • Angelica: Lending an herbal and slightly sweet aroma, contributing to the overall freshness of the top notes.
  • Bergamot: Enhancing the citrus accord with its bright and zesty character, adding depth and dimension.
  • Citrus Zest: Offering a burst of citrusy freshness, accentuating the vibrancy of the opening.

Middle Notes:

  • Florentine Iris: Infusing the heart of the fragrance with a powdery and elegant floral note, adding sophistication and depth.
  • Orange Blossom: Continuing the citrus theme with a delicate and romantic floral accord, exuding sweetness and charm.
  • Jasmine: Providing a heady and intoxicating floral aroma, imbuing the composition with a sensual allure.
  • Hyacinth: Offering a fresh and green floral note, contributing to the overall vibrancy of the heart.
  • Bourbon Island Ylang-Ylang: Adding a creamy and exotic floral scent, enhancing the richness and complexity of the middle notes.
  • Lily-of-the-Valley: Introducing a sweet and delicate floral aroma, evoking the freshness of spring.
  • Bulgarian Rose: Serving as the centerpiece of the heart, with its timeless and romantic floral fragrance, adding a touch of elegance and femininity.

Base Notes:

  • Spices: Providing a warm and aromatic foundation, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance.
  • Leather: Infusing the base with a sensual and luxurious aroma, evoking sophistication and allure.
  • Mysore Sandalwood: Offering a creamy and woody scent, adding richness and warmth to the base.
  • Tonka Bean: Providing a sweet and slightly spicy aroma, contributing to the overall warmth and sensuality.
  • Tyrolean Oakmoss: Adding an earthy and mossy quality, enhancing the chypre character of the fragrance.
  • Java Vetiver: Lending a smoky and earthy note, adding depth and complexity to the base.
  • Myrrh: Offering a resinous and balsamic aroma, adding a touch of exoticism and mystery.

Altogether, "Vivre" by Molyneux is a captivating fragrance that unfolds in a symphony of aldehydes, citrus, florals, and woods, creating a timeless and sophisticated olfactory experience that lingers in the memory long after it's worn.



Bottles Through The Ages:


Determining the age of a bottle of "Vivre" by Molyneux can provide valuable insights into its origin and potentially whether it's the original formulation or the relaunched version. Here's a pictorial guide to help you approximate the age of your bottle:

Determining the age of a bottle of "Vivre" by Molyneux can provide valuable insights into its origin and potentially whether it's the original formulation or the relaunched version. Here's a pictorial guide to help you approximate the age of your bottle:

Label Design: Examine the design of the label on the bottle. The original formulation of "Vivre" would likely feature a vintage-inspired label design, possibly with elegant typography and decorative elements typical of the era in which it was produced. In contrast, bottles from the relaunched version may feature a more modern label design, reflecting contemporary trends in packaging.

Bottle Shape: Pay attention to the shape and style of the bottle. Original bottles of "Vivre" may have a more classic and ornate design, reminiscent of perfume bottles from the early to mid-20th century. Look for details such as intricate glasswork, sculptural elements, or decorative stoppers. On the other hand, bottles from the relaunched version may feature a sleeker and more streamlined design, aligning with contemporary aesthetics.

Packaging Materials: Consider the materials used in the packaging of the bottle. Original bottles of "Vivre" may have been packaged in materials such as glass, metal, or ceramic, with attention to detail in craftsmanship and presentation. In contrast, bottles from the relaunched version may utilize modern packaging materials such as plastic or lightweight metals, with a focus on practicality and sustainability.

Brand Markings: Look for any brand markings or logos on the bottle or packaging. Original bottles of "Vivre" may feature vintage brand markings or logos that are characteristic of the time period in which they were produced. These markings may include the Molyneux logo, which could vary in design depending on the era. Bottles from the relaunched version may feature updated brand markings or logos that reflect the contemporary branding of Molyneux.

Batch Codes or Serial Numbers: Check for batch codes or serial numbers on the bottle or packaging. These codes can often be used to determine the production date of the fragrance. Original bottles of "Vivre" may have batch codes that align with the time period of their release, while bottles from the relaunched version may have batch codes corresponding to more recent production dates.

By carefully examining these details and comparing them to known examples or historical references, you can make an educated guess about the approximate age of your bottle of "Vivre" by Molyneux and determine whether it's the original formulation or the relaunched version.



Vivre 1/2 oz parfum, c1930s-1950s. photo from worthpoint.

1 oz parfum, c1930s-1950s, photo from worthpoint



These bottles are for the 1971 version. The larger of the two held .9 oz parfum and stands 3 ½ inch tall. The mini stands 2 3/8 inch tall. Photo from worthpoint.


Fragrance Capacity:


Have a 1970s-1980s Vivre perfume bottle but it doesn't state what the ounces/milliliters are? Based on the provided guide, you can estimate the size of your Zig Zaggy Parfum Splash bottle of "Vivre" perfume from the 1970s-1980s by measuring its height. Here's how you can do it:

  • Parfum 0.125 oz (1/8 oz) - (3.7ml): This size typically stands at a certain height. Measure the height of your bottle to see if it matches the approximate height for this size.
  • Parfum 0.17 oz (1/6 oz) - (5ml): If your bottle stands around 1 1/4" tall (3.17cm), it may correspond to this size.
  • Parfum 0.25 oz (1/4 oz) - (7.5ml): A bottle that stands approximately 2.4" tall (6cm) could indicate this size.
  • Parfum 0.5 oz (1/2 oz) - (15ml): If your bottle is around 3 1/8" tall (7.8cm), it might contain this amount.
  • Parfum 1.0 oz - (30ml): A bottle standing about 3 1/2" tall (9cm) could hold this volume.
  • Parfum 2.0 oz - (60ml): If your bottle is approximately 4 1/2" tall (11.4cm), it may contain this larger size.

Measure your bottle's height and compare it to these approximate heights to determine the size of your "Vivre" perfume bottle. This should give you a good idea of how much perfume it holds or once held.

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