Le Fruit Defendu by Rosine c1913

"Le Fruit Defendu" by Rosine is a fragrance with a rich history, crafted by the skilled hands of Henri Alméras and introduced to the world in 1913. Its allure likely reached the shores of the United States by 1916, captivating perfume enthusiasts with its mysterious charm. The name itself, translating to "The Forbidden Fruit" in French, evokes the timeless tale of Adam and Eve and their fateful encounter with temptation.

This fragrance holds a special place in the hearts of many, including the renowned American actress Gloria Swanson, who found herself enchanted by its alluring aroma. Just as the forbidden fruit tempted Adam and Eve, Le Fruit Defendu tantalizes the senses, weaving a narrative of seduction and desire with every delicate note. Its legacy endures through the decades, a testament to its timeless appeal and the artistry of its creators.

"Le Fruit Defendu" was not just a scent; it was a sensory experience offered in two exquisite forms: parfum and toilet water. The parfum, with its concentrated essence, enveloped wearers in a luxurious veil of fragrance, each note unfolding delicately on the skin, leaving a lasting impression. Meanwhile, the toilet water, with its lighter composition, offered a refreshing burst of scent, perfect for everyday wear or to accentuate one's presence with a subtle allure. Whether one preferred the depth of the parfum or the versatility of the toilet water, both incarnations of Le Fruit Defendu embodied sophistication and elegance, inviting wearers to indulge in the forbidden allure of its fragrance.

Things I Remember by Erte, 1975:

"Poiret's third business, which manufactured perfume, was named “Rosine”, after another of his daughters. He was the first couturier to enter this field. The scents were most unusual: I particularly loved 'Toute la Forêt' and 'Le Fruit Défendu,', but especially the latter which smelled deliciously of peaches."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet fruity floral woody fragrance for women with a spicy, amber and woodsy base. Made use of the chemical Persicol by Firmenich which gave it a distinctive peach scent. The fragrance is a forerunner of modern gourmand fragrances. It was also said to be the first to incorporate an aldehyde, a 0.3% dosage of C-12 Lauric. This gave the perfume a soapy, waxy, aldehydic floral nuance combined with the pungent citrus note of a fresh orange rind.

• Top notes: orange rind, aldehydes, apple, peach, banana, plum, coconut
• Middle notes: heliotrope, fig, cinnamon, ylang ylang, tuberose, honey, gardenia
• Base notes: spices, almond, patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris

 At its core, this fragrance is a pioneering blend, heralding the dawn of modern gourmand fragrances. Its composition features a spicy, amber, and woodsy base, anchored by the innovative use of the chemical Persicol by Firmenich, which infuses the scent with a distinctive peach aroma. This inclusion of Persicol not only adds a fruity sweetness but also marks a significant step forward in fragrance innovation.

Moreover, "Le Fruit Defendu" holds the distinction of being one of the first perfumes to incorporate an aldehyde, specifically a 0.3% dosage of C-12 Lauric. This infusion imparts a unique soapy, waxy, aldehydic floral nuance, complemented by the pungent citrus note of fresh orange rind, lending the fragrance a vibrant and invigorating character.

Pan, 1920:

"Still feeling in need of comfort, I went to buy some scent, for a really good perfume, as you know, acts like a balm to the soul, a pick me up to jaded nerves, and is truly worth a guinea a drop, and if you are anything like me, you will not be content to run one special perfume for any length of time, but demand a different scent for every day, for every mood, for every frock, and in Poiret's Rosine creations you can satisfy every need. The bottles are quaintly devised - the scents adorably named. 

I tried to decide between "Forbidden Fruit" (the bottle shaped to resemble a golden apple) and smelling like all the orchards in Kent, and slender, gold-flecked exquisitely hand-painted with birds and fishes, containing a spray like the scented mist that clothes that newly awakened dawn; but I eventually carried off "Pierrot," a dainty conceit of frosted glass, with a black stopper, and an impudent-looking Toby-frill round its neck, and a perfume that suggested dimity and apple blossom and a pure and blameless life) so appropriate, you know). 

I loved " Borgia," a dreamy, languorous scent and, best of all, the bright little Rosine powder- boxes in their gay coats of flowered chintz." 

 

Scent Profile:

In the fragrant garden of Le Fruit Défendu, each note unfolds like a chapter in a tale of temptation and desire, reminiscent of the mythical Garden of Eden. Imagine standing amidst a grove where the air is filled with the sharp, citrusy essence of orange rind. As you inhale deeply, the fresh zest of oranges surrounds you, vibrant and tangy. It's as if you've bitten into a ripe orange, the juice bursting forth with its citrusy sweetness, tantalizing your senses and leaving a refreshing taste on your lips.

Alongside the citrus, there's a delicate dance of aldehydes, adding a sparkling effervescence to the air. It's like catching a whiff of champagne bubbles, crisp and airy, creating an atmosphere of celebration and sophistication. The aldehydes lend a touch of elegance to the garden, their clean and soapy nuances intertwining with the citrus notes, evoking a sense of purity and allure.

As you venture further into the garden, you encounter the sweetness of ripe apples and peaches. The apple's crisp texture and slightly tart flavor mingle with the velvety softness of peach, their aromas blending into a harmonious symphony of fruity delight. Each bite feels like tasting forbidden knowledge, invoking the allure of indulgence and temptation that defines the forbidden fruit in this fragrant narrative.

Amongst the trees laden with fruits, there stands the fig tree, its fruits hidden amongst the leaves. The fig, with its rich, sweet aroma, represents the forbidden fruit in this olfactory tale. Its lush fragrance evokes a sense of mystery and desire, tempting you to reach out and taste its forbidden sweetness. The fig's allure lies in its rich complexity, a blend of sweetness and earthiness that captivates the senses and hints at hidden knowledge and indulgence.

As you continue your sensory journey through the garden, floral notes begin to bloom around you. The powdery sweetness of heliotrope fills the air, its delicate fragrance reminiscent of sunlit petals. Nearby, cinnamon adds a warm spice that tingles the senses, evoking images of exotic markets and ancient rituals. These middle notes infuse the garden with warmth and intrigue, balancing the sweetness of the fruits with their aromatic richness.

Deeper into the garden, the base notes reveal themselves with a grounding presence. Spices add depth and complexity, while almond and vanilla wrap you in a cozy embrace of familiarity and comfort. Patchouli's earthy depth and sandalwood's serene essence evoke a sense of grounding and tranquility, like walking through a shaded grove where the earthiness mingles with the sweetness of vanilla pods.

Ambergris, with its subtle musky sweetness, lingers in the background, adding a hint of sensuality and allure. It's like catching a whisper of forbidden secrets in the breeze, a reminder of the complexities and mysteries hidden within the garden's depths.

In Le Fruit Défendu, the fragrance composition unfolds as a journey through temptation and desire, where each ingredient tells a story of indulgence and allure. The fig, with its rich and complex aroma, stands as the forbidden fruit, symbolizing the allure of forbidden knowledge and the temptation to explore beyond boundaries. Its presence in the garden adds a layer of mystery and intrigue, enticing you to taste its sweetness and unravel its secrets, just as Eve was tempted by the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden.

Bottles:

"Le Fruit Defendu" presented its luxurious parfum in a bottle that was nothing short of a work of art. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the deluxe glass bottle was designed to resemble an apple, perfectly capturing the essence of forbidden temptation.

Standing at either 2.5" or 2.75" tall, depending on the size chosen, the bottle exuded elegance and sophistication. Its design was further enhanced by an intriguing metal overcap adorned with abstract motifs, creating a captivating visual appeal. A small piece of twisted metal cleverly mimicked an apple stem, adding a whimsical touch to the overall aesthetic.

Beneath the metal overcap lay a small flat disk crystal stopper, molded with notches on the side for ease of removal. This attention to detail ensured that every aspect of the bottle's design was both functional and visually pleasing.

The glass bottle itself was a testament to craftsmanship, intentionally filled with tiny trapped air bubbles that lent it a distinctive and unusual appearance. This deliberate choice added to the allure of the fragrance, making each bottle a unique and coveted treasure.

In sum, the packaging of "Le Fruit Defendu" parfum was not merely a vessel for its exquisite contents but a work of art in its own right, embodying the luxury and sophistication synonymous with the fragrance itself.

"Le Fruit Defendu" was not only a fragrance but an immersive experience from the moment it was unveiled. Each bottle of this alluring scent was nestled within a meticulously crafted silver paper-covered box, its exterior adorned with embossed jungle foliage. This intricate design was intended to evoke the lush beauty of the Garden of Eden, capturing the imagination and drawing the wearer into a world of temptation and intrigue.

As one traced the winding path of the snake, which gracefully wound around the sides of the box, a sense of foreboding mingled with fascination. Eyes, cleverly placed along the serpent's body, seemed to follow the observer's every move, a subtle reminder that temptation is always present, and someone is always watching.

Upon opening the box, the interior revealed a rich jungle green shade, transporting the beholder deeper into the heart of this tantalizing paradise. The contrast between the vibrant green hue and the shimmering silver exterior added to the mystique of the presentation, heightening anticipation for the olfactory journey that awaited within.

In essence, the packaging of "Le Fruit Defendu" transcended mere functionality, serving as a portal to a realm where desire and temptation intertwine. From the intricate embossing to the evocative color palette, every detail was carefully considered to immerse the wearer in a sensory experience unlike any other.   

"Le Fruit Defendu" offered a more accessible option for fragrance enthusiasts with its alternative flacons, featuring clear glass bottles adorned with green glass button stoppers. These elegantly simple bottles, made by Verreries Tissier, exuded understated sophistication while still maintaining the essence of the fragrance within.

Each bottle held 20 grams of the enchanting scent, making it a convenient and portable option for everyday use. Despite being less ornate than its deluxe counterpart, these bottles still possessed a timeless charm, their classic design standing the test of time.

The bottle design, cataloged as model number 14250 in an original antique 1920s Verreries Tissier perfume bottle catalog, showcased the craftsmanship and attention to detail characteristic of the era. Its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic were a testament to the beauty found in simplicity, allowing the fragrance itself to take center stage.

While perhaps lacking the intricate embellishments of the deluxe version, these flacons offered a more accessible entry point into the world of "Le Fruit Defendu," ensuring that its captivating aroma could be enjoyed by all who sought its forbidden allure.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Le Fruit Defendu" remained available for purchase until at least 1929, as evidenced by its inclusion in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico alongside other Rosine perfumes. Despite the specific date of its discontinuation being unknown, its presence in this publication provides a glimpse into its continued popularity during the late 1920s.

Among a prestigious lineup of Rosine fragrances such as Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Arlequinade, Avenue du Bois, Borgia, and others, "Le Fruit Defendu" held its own as a beloved scent, cherished by fragrance enthusiasts for its intoxicating blend of sweet, fruity, and floral notes.

While its exact fate beyond 1929 remains shrouded in mystery, its enduring legacy lives on through vintage advertisements, perfume bottles, and the memories of those who were fortunate enough to experience its forbidden allure firsthand.

Indeed, bottles of "Le Fruit Defendu" have become prized collectors' items, and their scarcity on the market drives up their value considerably. Due to their rarity and historical significance, acquiring one of these vintage bottles can often come with an exorbitant price tag.

For avid collectors and enthusiasts of vintage perfumes, obtaining a bottle of "Le Fruit Defendu" is akin to acquiring a piece of olfactory history. The allure of owning a fragrance with such a storied past, coupled with its luxurious packaging and unique scent profile, makes it a coveted treasure.

The limited availability of these bottles only adds to their mystique, fueling demand among collectors who are willing to pay a premium for the opportunity to add such a rare find to their collections. As a result, the cost of acquiring a bottle of "Le Fruit Defendu" can be substantial, reflecting both its scarcity and its enduring appeal to connoisseurs of fine fragrances.

Despite the lofty price tag, for those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of vintage perfumery, owning a bottle of "Le Fruit Defendu" is not just a purchase; it's an investment in a piece of olfactory history that transcends time.