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Wednesday, May 11, 2022

Parfums de-Folet

Parfums de-Folet, a highly obscure French perfume company, operated within a narrow window from 1938 to 1941. Despite its short existence, the brand left an indelible mark on the fragrance world with its distinct and elusive scents. Founded amidst the tumultuous years leading up to World War II, Parfums de-Folet crafted perfumes that captured the essence of an era marked by uncertainty and shifting societal norms.

Though scant information remains about the company's history, its legacy endures through whispers in fragrance enthusiast circles and rare vintage bottles that occasionally surface in auctions or private collections. The allure of Parfums de-Folet lies not only in its ephemeral existence but also in the mystique surrounding its creations, which are shrouded in the enigmatic ambiance of pre-war France.

The fragrances produced by Parfums de-Folet are revered for their complexity and sophistication, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era. Each scent is a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of a time when perfumers meticulously blended rare ingredients to create olfactory masterpieces. Despite the passage of time, the allure of Parfums de-Folet continues to captivate perfume aficionados who seek to uncover the secrets of this enigmatic brand.

Parfums de-Folet's brief yet captivating journey was tragically interrupted by the outbreak of the Second World War, which brought about the cessation of production and ultimately led to the company's bankruptcy. Despite its promising start, the tumultuous geopolitical landscape of the late 1930s and early 1940s proved insurmountable for the fledgling perfume house.

Parfums de-Folet's portfolio, though limited, boasted two exquisite fragrances that left an indelible mark on the olfactory landscape of their time. "Encore 'Duxieme'" and "Jungle Night" were not just perfumes; they were olfactory symphonies that transported wearers to distant realms of sensory delight.

"Encore 'Duxieme'" exuded an aura of timeless elegance and refinement, embodying the spirit of sophistication that defined the era. With its harmonious blend of floral and woody notes, this fragrance captivated the senses and left a lasting impression on all who encountered it.

On the other hand, "Jungle Night" offered a more adventurous olfactory journey, evoking the untamed wilderness with its exotic botanicals and mysterious accords. It was a fragrance that dared wearers to embrace their inner explorer and embark on a nocturnal odyssey through the lush undergrowth of distant lands.

Despite their undeniable allure, the fate of these two perfumes mirrored that of their creator, fading into obscurity as the ravages of war swept across Europe. Yet, even in their absence, the legacy of Parfums de-Folet and its ephemeral fragrances continues to linger, a testament to the enduring power of scent to transcend time and place.


The perfumes of Parfums de Folet:

  • 1938 Jungle Night
  • 1940 Encore Deuxieme, presented in a hula girl figural made by Ingrid in Czechoslovakia


Jungle Night:


"Jungle Night," the masterpiece creation of Parfums de-Folet, garnered acclaim and intrigue from fragrance connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike. Described in a 1939 article as "Subtle, provocative, alluring!" this scent was envisioned to transport wearers to the verdant depths of the Cambodian jungle, where exotic blooms and mysterious aromas awaited discovery.

The perfume's reputation for longevity and its ability to captivate the discerning nose earned it a coveted place among the elite fragrances of its time. Packaged in a vessel as exquisite as the fragrance itself, the bottle of "Jungle Night" was a work of art designed by the renowned Julien Viard, a master craftsman based in France. Standing at a modest yet elegant height of 4 inches, the bottle was meticulously crafted from frosted and clear glass, with the frosted areas adorned with a delicate black patina, evoking the mysterious allure of the nocturnal jungle.

Notably, the bottle had earned the prestigious Grand Prix at the Paris Exposition in 1937, a testament to its exceptional design and craftsmanship. Despite its limited availability at wholesale price, "Jungle Night" became a coveted treasure for those fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma and behold the beauty of its packaging.

Today, surviving examples of the "Jungle Night" perfume bottle stand as cherished relics of a bygone era, serving as a tangible reminder of the artistry and elegance that defined the golden age of perfumery. Each bottle is a testament to the enduring allure of Parfums de-Folet and its timeless creations.







Encore "Deuxieme":


Encore "Deuxieme," a creation of Parfums de-Folet, was a fragrance that embodied the essence of sophistication and allure, presented in a figural bottle crafted by the esteemed Ingrid company in Czechoslovakia. This Art Deco masterpiece, reminiscent of the whimsical designs popularized by Schiaparelli's iconic bottle for Zut, was a true testament to the creative genius of its time.   

The bottle, standing at an impressive height of 6.5 inches, was a harmonious blend of frosted and clear crystal, exhibiting a rare and captivating beauty. Its design was nothing short of extraordinary, featuring an abstract representation of a lithe female hula dancer as the stopper. What truly distinguished this piece was the clever incorporation of the grass skirt, which formed the base of the bottle itself.

In a moment of unexpected whimsy and surprise, the grass skirt had shockingly fallen to the dancer's feet, adding a delightful twist to the design. This abrupt wardrobe malfunction had her crossing her arms over her waist in a modest gesture, further enhancing the charm and intrigue of the piece.

Adorned with a ruffled flower lei around her neck and a blossom in her hair, she was a symbol of femininity and grace captured in minimalist, modernistic style. This innovative design not only showcased the creative genius of its time but also made the bottle a standout in the realm of Art Deco artistry.

Much like Schiaparelli's bold and innovative approach to fashion, Parfums de-Folet dared to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of traditional perfume packaging. By infusing their creations with elements of surprise and delight, they captured the essence of the Art Deco era, a time characterized by innovation, glamour, and a sense of joie de vivre.

The figural bottle of Encore "Deuxieme," with its captivating portrayal of the hula dancer frozen in a moment of playful abandon, stands as a testament to the boundless creativity and ingenuity of its creators. It is not merely a vessel for perfume but a work of art that invites us to escape into a world of imagination and possibility.

The delicate decal label on the figural stopper bore the inscription "Encore 'Deuxieme' de Folet Paris New York," hinting at the fragrance's dual identity, marketed as "Deuxieme" in France and "Encore" in the United States due to copyright considerations. Launched in 1936, Encore "Deuxieme" quickly garnered acclaim for its timeless appeal and captivating aroma.

A 1940 newspaper article alluded to the arrival of "two new perfumes," likely Encore and its counterpart, Jungle Night, from Parfums de-Folet, packaged in imaginative crystal flacons adorned with iridescent Tasmanian shell flowers. This innovative packaging, set on a wooden pedestal and covered by a clear crystal glass bell, exemplified the brand's commitment to luxury and artistry.

The glass dome design, popularized by perfumes such as Bab's Creation and Elizabeth Arden, added a touch of elegance to the presentation, further enhancing the allure of Encore "Deuxieme" and its sister fragrances. Each bottle was not just a vessel for perfume but a work of art, embodying the spirit of creativity and refinement that defined the golden age of perfumery.






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