Complice de Francois Coty c1973

Francois Coty originally created Complice ('Accomplice') in 1934, but died before it could be launched. It remained on ice until 1973, when the Coty company launched it in a period design bottle. The name Complice was filed for trademark in 1939, company claimed use since 1938.

That's quite an interesting history! François Coty was a prominent figure in the world of perfumery. It's fascinating to see how Complice had such a prolonged journey from its conception in 1934 to its eventual launch almost four decades later. The fact that the name was filed for trademark in 1939, with the company claiming use since 1938, adds an intriguing layer to its backstory. It's a testament to the enduring appeal and significance of certain fragrances that they can transcend time and still find success when brought to market years later.

It was reported in a 1975 newspaper blurb that "nostalgia for the Twenties has just made Coty revive its old-timer, "Complice," which was less risky than launching a new perfume, as well as much cheaper. This nostalgia may yet lead to a perfume revival. If the fad for the romantic and exotic is not too short-lived, it may enable the industry to regain lost ground."

I believe they are referring to the old Coty perfume Accomplice. I know that the composition of Complice (most likely the original Accomplice fragrance) was based on notes left by Francois Coty. However, I believe that they used the base for Accomplice and then added modern ingredients to update the fragrance to appeal to new consumers. It was said that the perfume was first conceived in 1934, before Coty's death. Forty years later, his notes were developed and the perfume marketed around the world. Even Coty's original design for the bottle, with its Lalique-inspired frosted crystal stopper, had been faithfully copied.

It sounds like the revival of Complice was not only a nod to nostalgia but also a strategic move by Coty to tap into the enduring appeal of vintage fragrances while updating it to resonate with contemporary tastes. The decision to utilize François Coty's original notes for Accomplice as the base for Complice adds an authentic touch to the fragrance, connecting it directly to its historical roots. Additionally, incorporating modern ingredients would have allowed Coty to ensure that Complice remained relevant and appealing to new generations of consumers.

Preserving Coty's original design for the bottle, including the Lalique-inspired frosted crystal stopper, further emphasizes the homage paid to the brand's heritage and the timeless elegance associated with it. This blend of tradition and innovation likely contributed to Complice's success upon its reintroduction to the market, appealing to both fans of vintage fragrances and those seeking something new and exciting.

When Coty launched Complice in France, late in 1974, it was held just outside Paris at the Chateau d'Artigny, an estate which was once owned by Francois Coty. The choice of Chateau d'Artigny for the launch of Complice in France seems like a fitting tribute to François Coty, given his connection to the estate. Holding the event at a location with historical significance adds an extra layer of authenticity and charm to the launch, creating an immersive experience for attendees and reinforcing the brand's heritage.

For the Australian launch in 1975, the Hilton Hotel in Sydney was chosen for its debut. Guests were offered a touch of Paris of the past with a champagne breakfast complete with hot delicacies, including scrumptious pastries and various slices of juicy melons. As for the Australian launch, the decision to evoke a "Paris of the past" ambiance with a champagne breakfast featuring delectable pastries and fresh fruits sounds delightful. It's a clever way to transport guests to the world of Complice, creating an atmosphere that complements the fragrance's nostalgic appeal while also adding a touch of luxury and sophistication to the event. Such attention to detail in the launch events likely helped to create a memorable experience for attendees and contributed to the overall success of Complice in the market.

Glyndebourne Festival Opera, 1977:

"Complice, conceived by Francois Coty. A perfume decades ahead of its time, a fragrance orchestrated in a thousand tones, an infinity of textures. And pronounced, by acclaim, the fragrance of the century Complice de Francois Coty."

The description of Complice as a fragrance ahead of its time, orchestrated in myriad tones and textures, paints a vivid picture of its complexity and allure. To have it hailed as the fragrance of the century is quite the accolade, solidifying its place in perfume history as an exceptional creation. François Coty's vision and ingenuity shine through in the praise lavished upon Complice, underscoring his enduring legacy as a pioneer in the world of perfumery. It's remarkable how a fragrance conceived decades earlier could still captivate audiences and be celebrated as a masterpiece, demonstrating the timeless appeal of Coty's creations.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women,  It begins with a spicy aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, layered over a warm, woody base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, marigold, bergamot oil, orange blossom, peach, spice oils, neroli
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, reseda, magnolia, carnation,  jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, rose
• Base notes: orris, wormwood, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan civet, Indian musk, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood and vetiver

 

Comprehensive Scent Profile:

Complice is a rich and complex fragrance with a diverse array of scents that evolve over time. Here's a breakdown of what you might expect:

• Top notes: The initial impression would likely be bright and sparkling, thanks to the aldehydes and bergamot oil. The floral aspect begins to emerge with hints of hyacinth, marigold, orange blossom, and neroli, complemented by a touch of fruitiness from the peach. The spice oils add depth and warmth, balancing out the freshness of the citrus and florals.

• Middle notes: As the fragrance develops, the heart notes come into play, revealing a lush bouquet of flowers. Ylang ylang, magnolia, jasmine, and rose contribute to the sweet and floral character, while carnation and lilac add a spicy and powdery aspect. Lily of the valley and narcissus may lend a green and slightly earthy undertone, enhancing the complexity of the composition.

• Base notes: The fragrance settles into a warm and sensual base, anchored by rich and earthy elements. Orris provides a powdery and slightly floral quality, while Siamese benzoin adds a sweet and resinous aroma. The presence of musk, oakmoss, and vetiver lends depth and complexity, creating a lingering and luxurious finish. Sandalwood adds a creamy and woody undertone, while the inclusion of civet may introduce an animalic nuance, adding intrigue to the overall scent profile.

Overall, Complice is a sophisticated and multifaceted fragrance that evolves beautifully on the skin, showcasing a harmonious blend of floral, fruity, spicy, and woody notes. Its complexity and richness make it a timeless and elegant choice for those who appreciate refined and captivating scents.

Cosmopolitan, 1978:

"Very elegant, very feminine, totally seductive...that's Coty's Complice de François Coty (he was the legendary perfumer who founded the famous House of Coty). The scent is a delectable fusion of floral notes underscored with rich, earthy tones of moss and spices...opulent, alluring, yet fresh and young and rather frisky! One ounce, $70."

A 1979 advertisement in the Reading Eagle newspaper reads:

“A THRILLING NEW FRAGRANCE COMPLICE DE FRANCOIS COTY. A fragrance so exquisite and timeless, it will ride above the changing tides of fashion. Inspired by the legendary Francois Coty and imported from France, for a discerning few. It is a poetic profusion of floral notes with moss and spicy woods…flawlessly feminine and becoming to any woman. Give Complice for Mother’s Day in many ways…Parfum $25-$70, Eau de Toilette (non aerosol sprays) $12.50 -$16, Parfume Soap 3 cakes plus soap case $16.00.”

These descriptions paint a vivid picture of Complice de François Coty as a fragrance of timeless elegance and allure. It's fascinating to see how the scent is consistently portrayed as both opulent and fresh, capturing a balance between classic sophistication and youthful vibrancy. The mention of floral notes underscored by earthy moss and spices suggests a complex and multifaceted composition that appeals to a wide range of tastes.

The advertisement from the Reading Eagle further emphasizes Complice's status as a luxurious and enduring fragrance, positioned as a thoughtful gift for Mother's Day. The inclusion of various product options, from parfum to soap, indicates a comprehensive range designed to cater to different preferences and budgets, making Complice accessible to a discerning clientele.

Overall, these descriptions and advertisements highlight Complice de François Coty as a fragrance with a rich heritage, evoking a sense of timelessness and sophistication that transcends fleeting trends.

Bottle:

The design of Complice de François Coty's bottle and packaging is truly exquisite, drawing inspiration from the Art Nouveau style and evoking the elegance of Lalique's creations. Pierre Dinand's expertise in perfume bottle design shines through in the intricate details and the deliberate nod to Lalique's iconic aesthetic.

The use of clear crystal for the bottle, along with the molded frosted glass stopper in the shape of an abstract flower, not only reflects the luxuriousness of the fragrance but also pays homage to Lalique's Tiara stoppered flacons from the early 20th century. The deliberate resemblance to Lalique's designs serves to create a visual association between Lalique and Coty, further enhancing the prestige and allure of Complice.

Despite being crafted by Coty's own glassworks and Pochet et du Courval, the bottle design resonates strongly with Lalique's signature style, from the ornate stopper to the gilded embossing on the label. This intentional homage to Lalique's aesthetic is evident in every aspect of the packaging, from the bottle to the box, creating a cohesive and visually captivating presentation.

The embossed design of leaves on the cream and white box adds another layer of elegance, complementing the overall Art Nouveau-inspired theme and enhancing the luxuriousness of the packaging.

Overall, the design of Complice de François Coty's bottle and packaging is a masterful blend of historical homage and contemporary sophistication, capturing the essence of the fragrance and elevating it to a true work of art.

This guide provides a helpful reference for determining the capacity of a Complice de François Coty bottle based on its size. Here's a summary:

• A Parfum miniature bottle with a capacity of 0.1 oz stands 1.5" tall and features a plastic floral stopper.
• A Parfum bottle with a capacity of 0.25 oz stands 2.25" tall.
• A Parfum bottle with a capacity of 0.5 oz stands 2.75" tall.
• A Parfum bottle with a capacity of 1 oz stands 3.25" tall.
• A Parfum bottle with a capacity of 2 oz stands 4" tall.
• A Factice (dummy bottle filled with colored water) typically has a capacity of 9.5 oz.

By using this guide, you can compare the dimensions of your Complice bottle to determine its capacity, especially if the original box or label is missing. This information can be useful for collectors or individuals looking to identify or value their bottles accurately.

Complice Catalog/Inventory Numbers, I will add more as I find them:

• 533.06 - 0.1 oz Parfum miniature  
•              - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 133.06 - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray Refill (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 183.06 - 0.25 oz Parfum  
• 184.06 - 0.5 oz Parfum
• 185.06 - 1 oz Parfum
• 186.06 - 2 oz Parfum
•             - 4 oz Parfum
• 500.06 - 0.25 oz Eau de Toilette miniature
• 189.06  - 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
•              - 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 190.06  - 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 127.06 - 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 128.06 - 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 129.06 - 8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
•             - Bath Soap
•             - Bath Soap (package of three)
•             - Talc

Fate of the Fragrance:

I believe that Complice was discontinued around 1990, it is possible to find bottles of the perfume and the eau de toilettes, but because of their scarcity, the prices can be exorbitant. It's not uncommon for discontinued fragrances like Complice de François Coty to become sought after by collectors, leading to higher prices due to their scarcity. When a fragrance is no longer in production, the existing bottles become increasingly rare over time, especially if they are well-preserved and still contain the original scent.

As a result, collectors and enthusiasts may be willing to pay premium prices to acquire bottles of discontinued fragrances, particularly if they have sentimental value or if the fragrance is highly regarded within the perfume community. Factors such as the condition of the bottle, the amount of fragrance remaining, and whether it includes the original packaging can also influence the price.

While it's possible to find bottles of Complice perfume and eau de toilette through various channels such as online auctions, specialty perfume shops, or private sellers, it's essential for buyers to exercise caution and ensure the authenticity of the product before making a purchase, especially given the potential for counterfeit or diluted versions on the market.

Ultimately, the scarcity of Complice bottles contributes to their allure and the higher prices they command, making them coveted treasures for collectors and enthusiasts of vintage fragrances.