Grand Dame by Jean Desprez c1939

"Grand Dame" by Jean Desprez, launched in 1939, is a perfume that exudes elegance and sophistication. The name "Grand Dame," translating to "great lady" in French, suggests a fragrance crafted for a woman of poise, grace, and refinement. Jean Desprez, known for creating luxurious and distinctive perfumes, likely designed this scent to embody the timeless allure and grandeur associated with such a woman. The year 1939 places this perfume in a pre-World War II era, a time when opulence and classic beauty were highly celebrated in the world of fashion and fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women, it was described as "spicy, for modern women".  

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus, clover
• Middle notes: carnation, gardenia, rose, jasmine, carnation, spices
• Base notes: vanilla, amber, oakmoss, musk, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, labdanum

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Grand Dame by Jean Desprez: On an accompaniment of spicy scents, gardenia, crimson clover seem to improvise their variations. In a word, this modern grande dame has 'branch'."

Scent Profile:

"Grand Dame" by Jean Desprez is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women, designed to capture the essence of sophistication and modernity. Here's a detailed breakdown of its scent profile:

Top Notes:

• Aldehydes: These provide a fresh, slightly soapy and sparkling quality to the fragrance.
• Citrus: Bright and zesty, adding a refreshing and invigorating burst of energy.
• Clover: Adds a green, slightly sweet and herbal touch.

Middle Notes:

• Carnation: Offers a spicy, clove-like floral note.
• Gardenia: Creamy, lush, and slightly sweet, adding depth to the floral heart.
• Rose: Classic, rich, and romantic, enhancing the floral bouquet.
• Jasmine: Exotic, sweet, and slightly narcotic, contributing to the opulent floral character.
• Spices: Add warmth, complexity, and an intriguing exotic twist.

Base Notes:

• Vanilla: Sweet, warm, and comforting, adding a creamy and smooth foundation.
• Amber: Rich and resinous, providing a warm, golden glow.
• Oakmoss: Earthy and slightly woody, adding depth and a hint of bitterness.
• Musk: Soft, sensual, and slightly animalic, enhancing the longevity and depth.
• Patchouli: Earthy, woody, and slightly sweet, contributing to the oriental aspect.
• Sandalwood: Creamy and woody, offering a smooth and rich base.
• Vetiver: Green, woody, and slightly smoky, adding complexity and an earthy touch.
• Labdanum: Sweet, resinous, and slightly leathery, rounding out the base with a balsamic note.

Overall, "Grand Dame" combines fresh, floral, and spicy elements with a rich and warm oriental base, creating a fragrance that is both timeless and modern, suitable for a woman who embodies elegance and sophistication.

 Book of Friendship, 1947:

"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."

Bottles:

Baccarat Flacon:

"Grand Dame" by Jean Desprez was elegantly housed in a Baccarat crystal flacon, showcasing the classical elegance characteristic of Jean Desprez's creations. The Baccarat crystal, renowned for its exceptional quality and craftsmanship, adds a touch of opulence and sophistication to the perfume.

The bottle's square base provides a stable and balanced foundation, reflecting a timeless and refined design. The flared ground glass stopper not only ensures an airtight seal to preserve the fragrance but also adds an element of grandeur and distinction to the bottle's design. The ground glass texture offers a tactile contrast to the smooth crystal. Known for its unparalleled clarity and brilliance, Baccarat crystal enhances the bottle's aesthetic appeal, making it a luxurious vessel for the perfume. Baccarat's reputation for high-quality, handcrafted crystal makes this flacon a collector's item and a symbol of luxury.

The design of the "Grand Dame" flacon is a testament to Jean Desprez's commitment to classical elegance. The use of Baccarat crystal, combined with the square base and flared stopper, creates a timeless piece that reflects the sophistication and artistry of the fragrance within. This attention to detail and choice of materials underscore the high standards and luxurious nature of Jean Desprez perfumes.

Modele Pratique:

"Grand Dame" by Jean Desprez was presented in a distinctive square French crystal flacon with a chunky, ground glass stopper. This elegant design was also used for other early Jean Desprez perfumes, including Etourdissant, Jardanel, and Votre Main. During the war period, due to cost and supply restrictions, these luxurious flacons were replaced with the "Practical Model," a more accessible version. 

The base of the box for these perfumes includes a declaration of authenticity and a warning against imitation: "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."

The bottle for "Grand Dame" features a charming paper label depicting a porcelain vase shaped like a twisted cornucopia, resting in an ormolu filigree stand with a Napoleonic eagle insignia on the side. This design was likely inspired by an antique Sevres example. According to Suzanne Wolfe, Desprez's Paris attorney, Jean Desprez drew much of his creative inspiration from priceless artworks and antique pieces he encountered during his autumn visits to the Palace of Versailles and the Sevres Porcelain Museum. Wolfe explained that when Desprez sees something he liked, he had it reproduced and used it on his Christmas cards. No doubt he did the same for his perfume labels.

The ground glass stopper fits perfectly into the neck of the bottle, creating an airtight seal that prevents the fragrance from evaporating and keeps it fresh for a longer period. These stoppers are often handcrafted and ground to fit precisely into the bottle, showcasing the skill and precision of the glassmakers. 

During periods of economic or material restrictions, such as wartime, the use of such luxurious materials might have been limited. However, the practicality and aesthetic appeal of these bottles ensured their continued use in high-end perfumes. The union of refined design, and  inspiration reflects the essence of "Grand Dame" as a fragrance meant to evoke timeless elegance  These bottles not only serve as containers for the perfume but also as tasteful decorative pieces that reflect the sophistication of the fragrance they hold. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Jean Desprez, known for his luxurious and sophisticated perfumes, often drew inspiration from priceless artworks and historical artifacts. This influence is evident in the design and presentation of "Grand Dame." The use of a Baccarat crystal flacon underscores the fragrance's high-end appeal and the attention to detail that characterized Desprez's work.

Despite its initial popularity and luxurious presentation, "Grand Dame" was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown.

The discontinuation of "Grand Dame" likely reflects changes in market trends, economic factors, or shifts in the company's strategic focus. Despite its discontinuation, "Grand Dame" remains a cherished memory for collectors and connoisseurs of vintage perfumes, admired for its classic scent and exquisite packaging.

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