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Saturday, February 10, 2024

Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli c1929

Launched in 1929, Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli carries with it a deeply personal and spiritual significance. The name "Ave Maria," Latin for "Hail Mary," is a reference to the Catholic prayer that honors the Virgin Mary. This prayer has long been associated with themes of purity, reverence, and divine grace, evoking images of serene devotion and spiritual reflection. In naming the perfume Ave Maria, Prince Matchabelli intended to capture these very qualities—offering a fragrance that would resonate with the sacred and the sublime.

The inspiration behind Ave Maria was the performance of Princess Norina Matchabelli, the prince's wife, in the role of Madonna in Max Reinhardt's production of "The Miracle." Georges Matchabelli created the perfume as a tribute to her, translating her inspiring portrayal into a scent that mirrors the reverence and beauty of her performance. In this context, Ave Maria can be seen as more than just a perfume; it is a fragrant homage to the sanctity and grace embodied by the Madonna, as interpreted by Norina.

The word "Ave Maria" conjures a sense of calm, serenity, and an almost ethereal beauty. The name evokes images of candlelit cathedrals, the soft glow of stained glass windows, and the gentle sound of a choir singing in harmony. As a perfume, Ave Maria would be interpreted as a fragrance of quiet elegance and deep emotional resonance—something that transcends mere fashion to touch on the sacred and the timeless. For women of the time, a perfume called Ave Maria would have likely carried an air of refinement and spiritual depth, appealing to those who sought a fragrance that was both worldly and mystical.



The late 1920s, when Ave Maria was launched, was a period marked by both artistic innovation and a fascination with the exotic and the mystical. In a market where many perfumes were bold and modern, Ave Maria stood out for its unique blend of floral and oriental notes that created a sense of spiritual elevation. Classified as a floral oriental fragrance, it was described as "For the worldly, a mystical, clinging perfume with the slow exaltation of incense, roses, and lilies." This description hints at the fragrance’s complex character, combining the sweetness of flowers with the depth of incense to create a scent that is both delicious and mystic.

During this era, many perfumes sought to capture the exoticism and opulence that defined the Roaring Twenties. However, Ave Maria offered something different—a scent that was at once luxurious and deeply introspective. It would have appealed to women who were drawn to the idea of a fragrance that could evoke both the divine and the earthly, blending the richness of incense with the delicate beauty of roses and lilies. In this way, Ave Maria was both unique and in line with the trends of its time, offering a sophisticated and spiritual alternative to the more overtly sensual perfumes of the day.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It was described as "For the worldly, a mystical, clinging perfume with the slow exaltation of incense, roses and lilies. " and  "Ave Maria (delicious and mystic)", also described as an "incense and flower" scent.
  • Top notes: lilies, Calabrian bergamot, orange, neroli, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: rose, lily of the valley, Persian lilac, jasmine, orange blossom, frankincense, myrrh
  • Base notes: olibanum, opoponax, Mysore sandalwood, Abyssinian ambergris, Tibetan musk, benzoin, vanilla, labdanum, patchouli

Scent Profile:


Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli, launched in 1929, is a floral oriental fragrance that evokes a sense of mystique and elegance. The name, "Ave Maria," which translates to "Hail Mary" in Latin, carries deep emotional and spiritual resonance, paying tribute to Princess Norina Matchabelli. This perfume was inspired by her performance as the Madonna in Max Reinhardt's The Miracle, reflecting a blend of reverence and worldly allure.

From the moment you encounter Ave Maria, the top notes present a luminous and ethereal introduction. The scent of lilies, with their creamy, powdery sweetness, unfolds gently, creating a feeling of purity and tranquility. This is complemented by the zesty freshness of Calabrian bergamot and the bright, invigorating nuances of orange, which together provide a citrusy sparkle. Neroli adds a soft, floral touch with its delicate, honeyed aroma, while aldehydes introduce a crisp, clean element that enhances the fragrance's modernity and radiance.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a rich bouquet of floral notes that are both opulent and haunting. Rose, with its deep, velvety aroma, mingles with lily of the valley, adding a hint of green freshness and a touch of innocence. Persian lilac and jasmine contribute their lush, heady sweetness, while orange blossom infuses the composition with a warm, floral richness. The presence of frankincense and myrrh introduces a mystical, resinous quality that evokes the scent of incense burning in a quiet, sacred space.

The base notes of Ave Maria offer a grounding, sensual finish. Olibanum and opoponax provide a deep, resinous warmth that blends seamlessly with the creamy, earthy richness of Mysore sandalwood. Abyssinian ambergris and Tibetan musk add an exotic, animalic depth, while benzoin and vanilla contribute sweet, balsamic tones. Labdanum and patchouli complete the base with their complex, smoky, and slightly woody facets, ensuring the fragrance lingers with an aura of profound elegance and mystique.

Overall, Ave Maria captures a unique blend of floral and oriental elements, offering a scent that is both luxurious and spiritual, perfectly suited for a woman seeking a perfume with a touch of reverence and sophistication.


c1929 ad


Bottles:

Ave Maria was housed in the familiar crown bottles used for other Matchabelli perfumes. Ave Maria could be found in three color schemes: black/gilded crown, periwinkle blue/gilded crown, clear/gilded, or frosted crown.

Bottles with glass stoppers come in various sizes:
  • 2 oz bottle stands 3 1/8" tall
  • 1 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall.
  • 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall.
  • 1/4 oz bottle stands 1.75" tall

The presentation of "Ave Maria" in these iconic crown bottles adds another layer of charm and sophistication to the fragrance. The various color options likely provided consumers with choices to suit their personal style and preferences. Each bottle, adorned with gilded accents, would have exuded a sense of luxury and regality, reflecting the elegance of the fragrance housed within. The choice of colors, from classic black to delicate periwinkle blue or frosted glass, might have also conveyed different moods or atmospheres associated with the scent, appealing to a diverse range of tastes and aesthetics. 

The exquisite crystal bottle presented here epitomizes the luxurious and refined presentation for which Prince Matchabelli was renowned. Its design features gracefully sloping shoulders and a ground glass stopper, meticulously molded with the distinguished "M and crown" logo, making it an exceptional and striking piece.

This bottle holds 1.5 ounces of perfume, standing 3.5 inches tall and extending 3 inches in length. The clear crystal material highlights its brilliance and quality, offering a sophisticated clarity that enhances its visual allure. The stopper, adorned with the Matchabelli emblem, complements the overall elegance of the bottle. The accompanying box, measuring 4 inches in both height and length, provides a fitting and elegant enclosure for this fine item. Marked "Made in France," the bottle’s origins attest to its European craftsmanship and authenticity.

Likely debuting in the early 1930s, this bottle was used for the fragrance "Damas," which adds to its historical and aesthetic significance. Known as the "Damas" bottle, it exemplifies the luxury and prestige associated with the Matchabelli brand.

For collectors and enthusiasts, this piece is not only a beautiful artifact of vintage glasswork but also a testament to the opulence of early 20th-century perfume presentation. Its craftsmanship and design make it a treasured addition to any collection, reflecting the enduring legacy of Prince Matchabelli.





Fate of the Fragrance:



Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli, introduced in 1929, was a distinguished floral oriental fragrance, celebrated for its mystical and alluring quality. Although the exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear, it continued to enchant perfume enthusiasts well into 1961, reflecting its lasting allure and appeal.

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