Chanel No. 55 by Chanel c1921

Chanel No. 55 by Chanel: launched in 1921.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? it is a floral chypre fragrance for women. It was created especially to be worn with tweeds and sports clothing. I had a very small sample of this fragrance many years ago and wrote down what notes I thought I could detect. It was similar to Lentheric's original Tweed fragrance.

When applied in the skin, I found that it had a muted citrus top, which I supposed had degraded over the years but was probably a lot brighter when new, similar to a classic cologne. The geranium, rose and lavender blend was very pronounced in my case. A bittersweet note from mixed herbs and a trace of pungency from carnation, was layered over forest-like mosses, dry grasses such as vetiver and precious woods. The deeply, warm animalic notes from civet, ambergris and leather made it ideal for men's use as well. But, a touch of sweetness from jasmine, orange blossom, and balsamic notes of benzoin and vanilla helped temper it from becoming too masculine.

• Top notes: aldehyde, bergamot, neroli, geranium, lemon, herbs
• Middle notes: honey, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lavender, orange blossom
• Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, oakmoss, labdanum, tonka bean, civet, styrax, leather, vetiver, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli

Chanel No. 55 was a complex and sophisticated fragrance with a blend of floral, citrus, herbal, and woody notes. Here's a breakdown of its olfactory profile based on the notes you provided:

Top Notes:

• Aldehyde: Providing a sparkling and effervescent quality.
• Bergamot: Adding a citrusy and slightly floral aroma.
• Neroli: Contributing a fresh, green, and slightly bitter orange blossom scent.
• Geranium: Offering a green, slightly rosy, and minty aroma.
• Lemon: Providing a bright and zesty citrus opening.
• Herbs: Adding a green, aromatic, and slightly earthy nuance.

Middle Notes:

• Honey: Infusing a sweet and warm richness.
• Rose: Providing a romantic and classic floral scent.
• Jasmine: Adding a heady, exotic, and slightly indolic floral note.
• Carnation: Contributing a spicy, clove-like aroma.
• Orris: Offering a powdery and slightly floral scent.
• Lavender: Providing a fresh, herbal, and slightly medicinal aroma.
• Orange Blossom: Adding a sweet, floral, and slightly citrusy note.

Base Notes:

• Cedar: Providing a woody, dry, and slightly resinous aroma.
• Sandalwood: Infusing a creamy, smooth, and slightly sweet woody note.
• Ambergris: Contributing a warm, musky, and slightly salty scent.
• Musk: Adding a soft, animalic, and sensual undertone.
• Oakmoss: Providing a earthy, mossy, and slightly woody aroma.
• Labdanum: Offering a rich, resinous, and slightly sweet amber-like scent.
• Tonka Bean: Infusing a warm, sweet, and slightly coumarin-like aroma.
• Civet: Adding a deep, musky, and animalic nuance.
• Styrax: Contributing a sweet, balsamic, and slightly smoky note.
• Leather: Providing a rich, sensual, and slightly smoky aroma.
• Vetiver: Adding a woody, earthy, and slightly smoky note.
• Vanilla: Infusing a sweet, creamy, and comforting aroma.
• Benzoin: Offering a warm, balsamic, and slightly vanilla-like scent.
• Patchouli: Providing a dark, earthy, and slightly spicy aroma.

Overall, Chanel No. 55 appears to be a timeless and versatile fragrance suitable for both men and women, with a balanced blend of fresh, floral, herbal, and woody notes, enhanced by warm and sensual base notes.

Bottles:

Chanel No. 55 was housed in the standard Chanel crystal flacon used for other fragrances. The 1929 ad below states that Chanel No.55 was available in five sizes and the other ad below mentioned that Chane. No. 55 may also be had in lipstick, face powder, rouge, toilet water or cream, but I have never seen them in this scent.

It's interesting to learn about Chanel No. 55's packaging and the variety of products it was available in back in its time. Chanel has a history of offering fragrances in various sizes and complementary beauty products, such as lipstick, face powder, and rouge, to create a cohesive experience for consumers.  

The use of the standard Chanel crystal flacon for Chanel No. 55 adds to its luxury and elegance, aligning with the brand's image of sophistication. If these vintage ads mention the availability of Chanel No. 55 in different sizes and product forms, it indicates that the fragrance was popular and sought after during its time, offering customers options to enjoy it in various ways beyond just perfume.

"All Paris has a passion for the lucky numbers, whether it's 21 on the Roulette wheel, or No. 5 Rue de la Paix, a smart cafe, or No. 55, the latest couturiere [sic] perfume. It's always the popular winning number that draws the smartest following. So, when the first woman smart played Chanel No. 55 with her swagger tweed costume, lunching at the Ritz in Paris, she received these amazing complimentary returns:

"What a deliciously provocative perfume , for it endows you with sorcery of a wood-nymph and is just the right weight for tweeds. It must have been specially blended for you ! How very clever of you my dear!" 

And all four other women waited breathlessly for her reply: "Charming of you to think so, but it's Chanel's own perfume, which she suggests with her sports costumes." 

So, from five to fifty, soon five-hundred to five-thousand smart women were playing Chanel's No. 55 for the best complimentary returns. And Block's Perfume Shop is the Only Department Store in Indianapolis where you can buy Chanel's No. 555. It's a lucky number and a safe bet for your Spring tweeds. $3.75, $5, $9, $13.00, $18 and $33 a Bottle."

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued fragrances, especially ones with a rich history like Chanel No. 55, can become highly sought after by collectors and fragrance enthusiasts. When rare bottles do surface on the market, they often command high prices due to their scarcity and the nostalgia they evoke.

For those who have a deep appreciation for vintage fragrances and the stories behind them, the pursuit of such elusive scents can add an element of excitement and adventure to their fragrance journey. While finding a bottle of Chanel No. 55 may be a challenging task, the possibility of stumbling upon one can make the search all the more rewarding for those passionate about fragrance history and rare finds.