Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim c1930

Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim was launched in 1930, a time marked by significant social and cultural changes. The 1930s were defined by the aftermath of the Roaring Twenties, a period of economic prosperity and cultural exuberance that came to a sudden halt with the Great Depression beginning in 1929. The world faced economic hardship, leading to widespread unemployment and poverty. Despite these challenges, the decade also saw remarkable developments in art, fashion, and technology. People sought escapism through films, radio, and other forms of entertainment, and luxury goods like perfumes offered a sense of elegance and respite from daily struggles.

An alembic, from the Arabic "al-anbīq" meaning "the still," is a traditional distillation apparatus used historically in alchemy and perfumery. It consists of two vessels connected by a tube, designed to heat and cool liquids to separate their components based on different boiling points. In perfumery, the alembic is crucial for extracting essential oils from flowers, herbs, and other raw materials, creating the foundation for fragrances. Its association with perfumery lies in its role in refining and capturing the essence of natural ingredients, symbolizing the transformation of raw materials into something precious and pure.

Jacques Heim, a renowned French couturier, chose the name "Alambic" for his perfume, reflecting the meticulous and transformative process of creating a fragrance. The word "alambic" is French, directly referring to the distillation apparatus. Naming a perfume "Alambic" is appropriate because it evokes the image of craftsmanship, precision, and the art of distillation. It suggests a perfume crafted with care, involving the extraction of the finest elements to produce a luxurious and refined scent.

People who would have related to a perfume called "Alambic" were likely those who appreciated sophistication and the artistry behind perfume making. They might have been well-versed in luxury goods, understanding and valuing the effort and skill required to create such a product. Their response to this perfume would be one of admiration and appreciation, recognizing the name "Alambic" as a nod to tradition and excellence in perfumery.

The word "Alambic" evokes images of ancient laboratories, filled with glassware and the rich scent of distilled essences. It brings to mind a sense of mystery and elegance, the delicate balance of science and art in creating something exquisite. The feelings associated with "Alambic" are those of nostalgia, curiosity, and a deep appreciation for the beauty found in the precision of craftsmanship. For the wearer, the perfume would symbolize a connection to the past, a touch of history, and the timeless allure of expertly crafted fragrances.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm floral chypre fragrance for women. There are no published notes in any of my references, so I used a sample from a bottle I had to tell you what I think it smells like. The perfume was recommended to be worn by brunettes.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, lemon, galbanum
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine,ylang ylang, violet, orange blossom
• Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, vanilla, labdanum

Femme, 1946:

"More than modern, avant-garde and post-war, “Alambic,” by Jacques Heim; in its original presentation, this perfume is a sort of revelation. It is very floral, a little amber, neither hot nor fresh, but remarkably tenacious; really new."

France-Illustration: Le Monde Illustré - Issues 79-91, 1947: 

 “Alambic”, a new perfume by Jacques Heim. Charm and joy of spring, voluptuousness of the essences."

Scent Story:

In the heart of a quaint village in the French countryside, there is a small, ancient laboratory filled with the tools of an alchemist. As you step inside, your senses are immediately overwhelmed by the rich tapestry of sights, smells, sounds, tastes, and textures that define this magical place. The air is thick with the aroma of countless ingredients, each vying for attention.

You see rows of glass alembics, each one gently simmering over a small flame, their curved necks leading to delicate glass tubes where the essences condense into tiny droplets. The sunlight filters through the stained glass windows, casting colorful reflections on the walls and creating a kaleidoscope of light. Copper and brass tools glint in the soft light, and shelves are lined with bottles and jars of every shape and size, filled with mysterious liquids and powders.

The scent of bergamot is the first to greet you, a bright, citrusy note that cuts through the air like a ray of sunshine. It mingles with the crispness of aldehydes and the tangy zest of lemon, creating a refreshing, invigorating top layer. Galbanum adds a green, resinous quality, grounding the brightness with its earthy undertones.

As you move closer to the alembics, the middle notes begin to unfold. The warm, spicy aroma of exotic spices wafts through the air, mingling with the floral heart of the fragrance. The sweet, intoxicating scent of rose and jasmine is complemented by the creamy, rich notes of ylang-ylang and violet. Orange blossom adds a hint of fresh, sweet citrus, balancing the heady florals with its light, bright touch.

The sound of bubbling liquids and the soft clinking of glass vessels is soothing, a constant reminder of the meticulous process of distillation. You hear the occasional rustle of dried herbs and petals as they are added to the mix, each one contributing to the complex symphony of scents.

Touching the alembics, you feel the smooth, cool glass beneath your fingers, slightly warm from the gentle heat of the flames. The metal stands are solid and reassuring, their weight a testament to the precision and care required in this ancient art. The texture of dried petals and leaves is delicate and fragile, crumbling to powder at the slightest touch.

As the fragrance continues to develop, the base notes emerge, adding depth and warmth. The animalic musk and civet provide a sensual, earthy foundation, while vetiver and patchouli add a smoky, woody complexity. Oakmoss brings a forest-like dampness, evoking the scent of moss-covered trees after a rainstorm. Sandalwood and ambergris lend a creamy, slightly sweet warmth, enriched by the resinous, balsamic notes of labdanum. Vanilla adds a final touch of sweetness, rounding out the fragrance with its comforting, familiar aroma.

Tasting the air, you sense a slight bitterness from the herbs and resins, a hint of sweetness from the florals, and a touch of spiciness from the warm, exotic spices. It is a complex, layered experience, each element distinct yet harmoniously blending into a beautiful, cohesive whole.

In this alchemist's haven, every sense is engaged, every ingredient meticulously chosen and distilled to create the perfect perfume. "Alambic" by Jacques Heim captures this essence, a warm floral chypre fragrance that transports you to this enchanted world with every spritz, enveloping you in its rich, luxurious embrace.

 

Bottles:

The luxury edition of the perfume was contained inside of a fragile, blown glass bottle with a long neck and bulbous base. It is fitted with a stopper molded in the shape of a flame. The bottle was housed in a luxurious double door presentation box lined with ivory satin. The bottle rests inside the base of the box while a gilded brass armature fixed to the base and back of the box securely holds the bottle upright.

The blown glass bottle with its long neck and bulbous base evokes a sense of craftsmanship and delicacy, suggesting a piece of art in itself. The stopper molded in the shape of a flame adds a touch of symbolism and sophistication, perhaps hinting at the fiery allure of the fragrance within.

The opulent presentation box, with its double doors and ivory satin lining, enhances the sense of luxury and refinement. The choice of ivory satin suggests a soft and luxurious texture, complementing the delicacy of the perfume bottle. Placing the bottle within the base of the box not only protects it but also showcases it as a prized possession.

The gilded brass armature holding the bottle upright further elevates the presentation, adding a touch of grandeur and stability. Overall, the packaging and presentation of the luxury edition of "Alambic" contribute to the overall experience of indulgence and sophistication associated with the fragrance.

A less expensive version used for Alambic was a bottle of colorless pressed glass with rectangular section, square body, its heart-shaped gold paper label affixed on one side, topped with its square stopper in midnight blue glass with intaglio decoration of a fox's head (logo of the fashion house), presented in its titled white and gold cardboard box. Logo designed by Sonia Delaunay, model produced by Verrerie Brosse. Below is a photo of my bottle from my etsy listing which I used to sample the perfume.

The less expensive version of "Alambic" also had its own charm and style, albeit with more economical materials and packaging compared to the luxury edition. The colorless pressed glass bottle with a rectangular section and a square body suggests simplicity and functionality, yet it still maintains an elegant appearance.

The heart-shaped gold paper label affixed to one side adds a touch of vintage allure and sophistication, while also providing branding and information about the fragrance. The square stopper in midnight blue glass with intaglio decoration of a fox's head, the logo of the fashion house, adds a distinctive and stylish element to the bottle, tying it back to the brand's identity.

The presentation in the titled white and gold cardboard box adds a layer of protection and a sense of occasion to the purchase, making it suitable for gifting or personal use. The logo designed by Sonia Delaunay and the model produced by Verrerie Brosse indicate a collaboration of artistic minds and skilled craftsmanship, adding to the overall appeal of the product.

It's fascinating how even the more affordable version of "Alambic" maintains a sense of style and luxury through thoughtful design elements and branding.

Fate of the fragrance:

"Alambic" has been discontinued. It's not uncommon for fragrances, especially those from earlier decades, to eventually be discontinued due to changing trends, ingredients availability, or corporate decisions. Unfortunately, determining the exact date of discontinuation for a fragrance like "Alambic" can be challenging, especially if there isn't extensive documentation available.

In many cases, discontinued fragrances become sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, adding to their allure and mystique. While the official production may have ceased, the memories and experiences associated with these fragrances often live on through vintage bottles, nostalgic recollections, and occasionally, limited re-releases or reformulations.

If "Alambic" holds a special place in your heart, cherish the memories it evokes and perhaps explore other fragrances that share similar characteristics or notes. Additionally, vintage perfume enthusiasts and online communities might provide valuable insights and opportunities to connect with others who appreciate these discontinued gems.