Le Dandy by D'Orsay c1925

Le Dandy by D'Orsay was launched in 1925, a time characterized by cultural and social transformation. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties" or the "Jazz Age," saw a significant shift in societal norms and lifestyles. This period followed the devastation of World War I, leading to a desire for change and a break from tradition. It was an era marked by economic prosperity, technological advancements, and a flourishing of the arts. The fashion and social scene of the 1920s was vibrant, with women challenging conventional roles and embracing newfound freedoms.

The term "dandy" refers to a man who places particular importance on physical appearance, refined language, and leisurely hobbies, often associated with a flamboyant and sophisticated lifestyle. Originating in the late 18th century, the concept of the dandy was epitomized by figures such as Beau Brummell, who became icons of elegance and fashion. By the 1920s, the idea of the dandy had evolved, symbolizing not just a well-dressed man but also a certain nonchalance and sophistication in both men and women.

The term "La Garçonne," popularized by the 1922 novel by Victor Margueritte, refers to a young woman who adopts a boyish style and attitude, defying traditional feminine norms. This concept closely parallels the flapper, a term used to describe women in the 1920s who embraced new fashions, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and engaged in behaviors previously reserved for men, such as smoking and drinking. Flappers represented the rebellion against societal expectations and the embrace of a modern, liberated lifestyle.

D'Orsay's choice of the name "Le Dandy" for a perfume aligns perfectly with the cultural milieu of the 1920s. The name evokes the elegance, sophistication, and rebellious spirit of the time. By naming the perfume "Le Dandy," D'Orsay tapped into the zeitgeist, appealing to the modern woman who identified with the freedom and audacity of both the dandy and the flapper. This choice reflected the perfume's target audience—women who were bold, fashionable, and unafraid to challenge societal norms.

"Le Dandy" is an appropriate name for a perfume as it conjures images of refinement, elegance, and a hint of rebellion. The name suggests a fragrance that is both sophisticated and daring, suitable for those who wish to make a statement. Women of the 1920s, particularly those who embraced the flapper lifestyle, would have related to "Le Dandy" as it mirrored their own desires for self-expression and freedom. The perfume would likely evoke feelings of empowerment, confidence, and allure, resonating with women who saw themselves as modern and independent.

The word "Le Dandy" evokes images of a well-dressed, charismatic individual who exudes confidence and charm. It brings to mind a sense of style and sophistication, combined with a playful, carefree attitude. For women in the 1920s, this perfume would symbolize their own transformation and the breaking away from traditional roles, capturing the essence of a decade defined by change and liberation.

"Le Dandy" by D'Orsay is a classic fragrance launched in 1925 and crafted by the skilled perfumer Henri Robert. Its tagline, "the first blossoms of early summer," as found in a 1927 newspaper ad, evokes a sense of sophistication and timeless elegance, capturing the essence of its era.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what did it smell like? It was classified as a sweet aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It was described as spicy and crisp, originally created for men, but taken up by women who wanted to wear something to go with their sports clothes.

• Top notes: elderberry, aldehydes, fruity note, almond, citrus note
• Middle notes: carnation, honey, orange blossoms, jasmine, spices, iris and rose
• Base notes: amber, tobacco, tonka bean, balsams, leather, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla

 

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Le Dandy by D'Orsay: Subtle. Dominant note: chypre."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Le Dandy d'Orsay: maybe it's a flowering elderberry, or maybe an almond tree, the tree under which this dandy sits. But jasmines are close. The breeze brings a snowy star, in your black hair. And the dandy offers you roses, bitter in the honeyed air. A dragonfly falls on your English embroidery dress. It's all very romantic... Does it smell of amber, your friend the dandy, or one of those aldehydes whose fragrance comes from who knows where? Do not look for so long, all to undergo the exhilaration of the hour."

Combat, 1955:

"Dandy eau de cologne with the perfume of Orsay - rose and jasmine freshened by the citrus scents of the eau de cologne. It is to Lola de Valence that this dandy offers his bouquet. She sensually musks the smell. She mixes it with the tuft of iris and the spicy taste of its Frisians where they reveal the incandescent complexion."

Scent Story:

In the heart of a bustling modern metropolis, a young woman embodies the spirit of a flapper from the Roaring Twenties. Her bobbed hair sways as she strides confidently into a luxurious perfume boutique, where the latest scent from D'Orsay, Le Dandy, awaits discovery. The boutique is a haven of elegance, with sleek glass shelves displaying an array of exquisite bottles, each one a promise of sensory delight.

As she steps inside, the air is alive with a symphony of scents, the first whisper of Le Dandy greeting her like an old friend. The initial burst is invigorating and crisp, a medley of aldehydes and citrus notes that sparkle like sunlight on a clear morning. She closes her eyes, taking in the fruity sweetness of elderberry and the delicate, almost creamy nuance of almond. The combination is both nostalgic and new, evoking memories of carefree days and the thrill of discovering something entirely unique.

The shop's ambiance is filled with the gentle hum of sophisticated chatter and the soft rustle of luxurious fabrics. She approaches the counter, where the sleek bottle of Le Dandy stands proudly. She picks it up, feeling the cool, smooth glass against her fingers, the weight of it reassuringly solid. The scent evolves on her skin, revealing the heart of the fragrance: a bouquet of flowers and spices that blooms vividly. Honeyed carnation mingles with the heady sweetness of orange blossoms and jasmine, while the spicy undertone adds a bold, almost daring twist. There's a hint of iris and rose, lending a soft, romantic touch to the composition.

As the fragrance warms, it envelops her in a comforting embrace. The base notes emerge slowly, grounding the scent with a rich, earthy depth. She detects the smoky allure of tobacco and the creamy, balsamic warmth of tonka bean. The scent of leather is smooth and luxurious, mingling with the woody richness of sandalwood and the earthy darkness of patchouli. Amber adds a golden glow, while musk and vanilla provide a soft, lingering sweetness that clings to her skin.

The boutique offers a small tasting area, where she sips a delicate herbal tea infused with hints of citrus and almond, mirroring the top notes of Le Dandy. The flavors dance on her tongue, a harmonious blend that enhances her sensory journey. The tea is served in fine porcelain, the cup warm and smooth to the touch, its delicate floral pattern a nod to the timeless elegance that D'Orsay's creations embody.

As she leaves the boutique, the scent of Le Dandy continues to unfold, each note a testament to its complexity and allure. The city streets are alive with the sounds of modern life, yet she feels a connection to the past, to the flappers who dared to defy convention and embrace a new era of freedom and style. Le Dandy is more than just a perfume; it's a tribute to that spirit, a fragrant reminder that elegance and boldness can coexist, creating a timeless allure that transcends generations.

Bottles:

Here's a brief overview of some major bottles used for D'Orsay perfumes, including Le Dandy, during different periods:

• Octagonal Bottle: The original octagonal bottle used for Le Dandy, characterized by its distinctive shape and likely introduced upon the fragrance's launch in 1925. This bottle would have exuded a sense of Art Deco elegance, in line with the style of the time.

• Basketweave Bottle: Introduced around 1930, this bottle featured a tall, slender shape with stylized basketweave designs molded into the sides. It was available in both black and clear glass and used for various D'Orsay fragrances, including Le Dandy.

• Coat of Arms Bottle: Around 1935, another black glass bottle was released, tall and slender with minimal decoration except for a stopper molded with the D'Orsay coat of arms. This bottle was also made in clear glass and used for different D'Orsay perfumes.

• Cylindrical Bottle with Ball-shaped Stopper: During World War II, Parfums D'Orsay introduced a cylindrical bottle made of clear glass, tapering upwards and fitted with a ball-shaped stopper. This bottle design was utilized for various D'Orsay fragrances, including Le Dandy.

These bottles reflect the evolution of packaging styles over time, influenced by design trends, technological advancements, and external factors such as wartime restrictions. Despite these changes, the essence of elegance and sophistication associated with D'Orsay perfumes remained consistent, ensuring their enduring appeal to discerning consumers.

Octagon Bottle:

Presented in a black glass Art Deco flacon designed by Louis Sue and produced by Baccarat. This bottle was also available in clear crystal and was used for other D'Orsay perfumes over the years. Sometimes this bottle was packaged in an oval presentation box featuring green and gold designs. In 1927, this box was then sealed with wrapped paper printed with Count D'Orsay riding horseback.

The largest bottle, 32 oz was available in 1927 for the sum of $200, according to an inflation calculator, this would have the same buying power as $3,583.41 in 2024.

Today, people may mistake this very large bottle for a factice when it is found empty, but it was once filled with perfume.

The introduction of miniature bottles holding 0.25 and 0.5 oz of perfume in 1929 was a significant development in the fragrance industry. These smaller-sized bottles provided consumers with more accessible options for purchasing and experiencing perfumes. While larger bottles could be expensive and sometimes prohibitive for certain customers, miniature sizes allowed individuals to enjoy luxury fragrances without breaking the bank.

The smaller size of these bottles made them ideal for travel or carrying in a purse or pocket. This portability meant that people could enjoy their favorite scents wherever they went, whether it be for a special occasion, a vacation, or simply day-to-day use.

Miniature bottles also served as convenient sampling options for customers who wanted to try out a new fragrance before committing to a larger purchase. This allowed perfume enthusiasts to explore a wider variety of scents and discover new favorites without making a significant investment.

Over time, miniature perfume bottles have become collectible items in their own right. Many enthusiasts collect these bottles for their aesthetic appeal, historical significance, or as part of a broader interest in fragrance memorabilia. Some miniature bottles are even considered valuable collector's items, especially those from iconic perfume houses or limited-edition releases.

Overall, the introduction of miniature bottles in 1929 revolutionized the perfume industry by democratizing access to luxury fragrances, enhancing convenience and portability, and contributing to the growth of perfume collecting as a hobby.

If your bottle is missing it's label or is an early bottle which does not indicate the capacity, use my helpful guide for determining the size of perfume bottles. It is straightforward and helpful for determining the size of perfume bottles based on their height. 

• 0.25 oz stands 2" tall
• 0.5 oz stands 2.5" tall
• 1 oz stands 3" tall
• 2 oz stands 3.75" tall
• stands 4" tall. 
• stands 4.5" tall
• 4 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall
• 12 oz bottle stands 6.5" tall
• 32 oz bottle stands 8.5" tall (not a factice)

1926 prices:

• 1 oz 7.50 ($131.37 in 2024)
• 2 oz 13.50 ($236.47 in 2024)
• 4 oz $25 ($437.92)

1927 price:

• 32 oz $200 ($3,583.41 in 2024)

In the1920s, packaging played a significant role in the presentation and marketing of perfumes, adding to their allure and luxury appeal. Le Dandy, being a classic fragrance of that era, would have likely been packaged in a box that reflected the sophistication and elegance of the scent.

In the late 1920s, you could also find Le Dandy packaged in a box of blue and gold, which suggests a design that exudes opulence and refinement. Blue and gold are colors often associated with royalty, wealth, and prestige, making them fitting choices for a perfume like Le Dandy, which aimed to embody the essence of sophistication and timeless style.

The combination of these colors would have enhanced the visual impact of the packaging, catching the eye of potential customers and conveying a sense of exclusivity and luxury. Additionally, the use of intricate designs or embellishments, such as gold accents or embossed patterns, may have further enhanced the box's appeal, adding to its aesthetic charm and elegance.

Overall, the box of blue and gold would have served as a fitting vessel for presenting Le Dandy, complementing the fragrance's exquisite scent with a touch of visual splendor and luxury.

In the 1940s and early 1950s, the presentation box style shifted to a design featuring quilted white paper adorned with a blue medallion depicting Count D'Orsay riding horseback. This new packaging design likely aimed to capture the elegance and sophistication associated with equestrian culture, while also honoring the brand's heritage and founder.

The quilted white paper would have added a tactile element to the box, conveying a sense of luxury and refinement. Meanwhile, the blue medallion featuring Count D'Orsay riding horseback served as a nod to the brand's history and legacy, reinforcing its association with aristocratic elegance and timeless style.

The evolution of Le Dandy's presentation box from the late 1920s to the early 1950s reflects the changing trends and tastes of the time, as well as the brand's efforts to maintain its appeal and relevance to consumers.

This updated presentation box would have appealed to consumers seeking a perfume that exuded both sophistication and tradition, while also reflecting the prevailing aesthetic sensibilities of the era. By incorporating elements of equestrian imagery and classic design motifs, the box further enhanced the allure of Le Dandy as a fragrance synonymous with luxury and prestige.

Basketweave Bottle:

In 1930, a new style bottle was created for Le Dandy, still in the familiar black glass, this was a tall, slender shape with stylized basketweave designs molded into the sides, and fitted with a dome shaped stopper. The introduction of a new bottle style marked a significant evolution in its packaging, showcasing a design that was both elegant and distinctive. The tall, slender shape, adorned with stylized basketweave designs molded into the sides, would have undoubtedly added a touch of sophistication to the presentation of the fragrance.

The use of black glass for the bottle further enhanced its appeal, conveying a sense of luxury and refinement. Black glass bottles were popular in the perfume industry during this time, prized for their aesthetic qualities and ability to protect the fragrance from light exposure, thus helping to preserve its quality.

While the manufacturer of this bottle remains uncertain, Cristalleries de Nancy is a plausible candidate, given their reputation for producing high-quality glassware, including bottles for various perfume companies. The "France" marking on the base indicates the bottle's country of origin, further adding to its allure as a premium product.

A decision to use clear glass for some versions of this bottle design would have provided a striking contrast to the black glass variants, offering a fresh and modern interpretation of the classic packaging. Clear glass bottles allow the color of the fragrance to be visible, providing a visually appealing presentation that showcases the liquid within.

It's interesting to note that this bottle style was also utilized for other D'Orsay fragrances, such as Charme, showcasing its versatility and suitability for different scents within the brand's lineup. Despite the introduction of this new bottle shape, the original octagonal bottle continued to be offered, providing consumers with a choice between classic and contemporary packaging designs.

Overall, the introduction of the tall, slender bottle with stylized basketweave designs represented a successful blending of aesthetics and functionality, further enhancing the allure of Le Dandy as a timeless and sophisticated fragrance.

These sizes provide a range of options for consumers, catering to different preferences and usage needs.

• Bottle stands 2.5" tall.
• Bottle stands 3" tall.
• Bottle stands 5 1/8" tall.

Coat of Arms Bottle:

The release of another black glass bottle around 1935 marked another notable development in the packaging of Le Dandy and other D'Orsay fragrances. This new bottle design featured a tall, slender shape with minimal decoration, except for a stopper molded with the D'Orsay coat of arms. This understated elegance was mirrored in the presentation box, which was tall, slender, and pale pink, with minimal adornment.

The simplicity of this presentation was a departure from previous designs, yet it exuded a refined charm that appealed to the sophisticated tastes of the era. The focus on clean lines and subtle branding emphasized the quality and prestige of the fragrance itself, rather than relying on elaborate packaging to capture attention.

In 1940, the presentation box style underwent a transformation, becoming livelier with the addition of quilted white paper and a brown medallion featuring Count D'Orsay riding horseback. This updated design injected a sense of dynamism and visual interest while still maintaining an air of elegance and sophistication.

Overall, the evolution of Le Dandy's packaging reflects a careful balance between tradition and innovation, with each iteration serving to enhance the fragrance's allure and appeal to discerning consumers.

• Bottle stands 2.25" tall.
• Bottle stands 3" tall.
• Bottle stands 3.25" tall.
• Bottle stands 4" tall.

Cylindrical Bottle with Ball-shaped Stopper:

The onset of the Second World War necessitated adaptation within the perfume industry, leading Parfums D'Orsay to introduce a new style of bottle around this time. This bottle, made of clear glass, featured a cylindrical shape tapering upwards and was topped with a ball-shaped stopper. This design reflected the practical constraints of the wartime period while maintaining a sense of elegance and sophistication.

This cylindrical bottle design was utilized for various D'Orsay perfumes, including the iconic Le Dandy. Its clear glass composition allowed the fragrance within to be prominently displayed, while the ball-shaped stopper added a touch of refinement to the overall presentation.

In terms of packaging, these bottles were housed in quilted or textured white paper boxes, which provided both protection and aesthetic appeal. The boxes featured an embossed blue medallion reminiscent of the classic Wedgwood style, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and craftsmanship.

Despite the challenges posed by wartime restrictions, Parfums D'Orsay managed to adapt to the circumstances while maintaining the essence of luxury and sophistication associated with its brand. The introduction of the cylindrical bottle and the elegantly designed packaging ensured that Le Dandy and other D'Orsay perfumes continued to captivate consumers, even during tumultuous times.

• 0.25 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 0.5 oz bottle stands 3.25" tall.
• 1 oz bottle stands 4" tall.

Other Bottles:

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:

"D'ORSAY The House of D'Orsay is introducing a crested metal case containing three D'Orsay perfumes, the new Trophee, Le Dandy, and Toujours Fidele. The case makes a handsome cigarette case after the perfumes are gone, and comes in white metal with gold D'Orsay crest, in black with gold crest, and in brushed gold with shiny gold crest."

The expansion of the Le Dandy product line beyond its original parfum version in 1927 marked a significant milestone for Parfums D'Orsay, broadening its offerings to cater to a wider range of consumer preferences and grooming needs.

Here's a breakdown of the additional products introduced alongside the original parfum:

• Toilet Water: A lighter, less concentrated version of the fragrance, suitable for everyday use and refreshing the skin.

• Talc: Talcum powder infused with the Le Dandy scent, providing a silky-smooth feel and subtle fragrance when applied to the skin.

• Dusting Powder (Poudre de Toilette): Similar to talcum powder, dusting powder offers a light, fragrant veil for the body, imparting a delicate scent and a hint of shimmer.

• Bath Salts: Luxurious bath salts infused with the Le Dandy fragrance, offering a relaxing and indulgent bathing experience.

• Rouge and Face Powder: Makeup products designed to complement the Le Dandy fragrance, providing a finishing touch to the overall grooming routine. The rouge and face powder were available in double compacts, which were black and octagonal in shape, mirroring the design of the perfume bottle. These compacts were compact and convenient for on-the-go touch-ups.

By 1930, the Le Dandy double vanity compact expanded its color options beyond black enamel to include red and green enameling. This added versatility allowed consumers to choose a compact that not only matched the iconic black bottle of Le Dandy but also reflected their personal style preferences.

Overall, the expansion of the Le Dandy product line to include a variety of grooming and cosmetic items demonstrates Parfums D'Orsay's commitment to offering a comprehensive and cohesive brand experience, catering to every aspect of the modern consumer's grooming ritual with elegance and sophistication.

The introduction of "Bouquet a Parfum" or "Bouquet D'Orsay" in 1938 marked another significant expansion of the Le Dandy product line, offering consumers a lighter and more refreshing alternative to the original parfum version. This cologne formulation provided a cooling and invigorating way to wear the fragrance, making it ideal for daytime use and warmer weather.

"Bouquet D'Orsay" was available in a four-ounce bottle, providing ample supply for regular use. It was offered not only for Le Dandy but also for a range of other D'Orsay fragrances, showcasing the brand's commitment to providing diverse options to suit different tastes and preferences.

The availability of "Bouquet D'Orsay" in various fragrances expanded the appeal of the product line, allowing consumers to explore different scent profiles within the D'Orsay collection. Some of the fragrances available in the "Bouquet D'Orsay" range included:

• Milord: A sophisticated and masculine fragrance.
• Duo: Perhaps a combination or dual fragrance offering a unique olfactory experience.
• Trophée: Evoking a sense of victory or achievement, possibly with an invigorating and empowering scent profile.
• Comtesse: Reflecting elegance and refinement, likely featuring a feminine and sophisticated aroma.
• Gardenia: Infused with the delicate and intoxicating scent of gardenia flowers, offering a floral and romantic fragrance.
• Chypre: Inspired by the classic chypre fragrance family, known for its woody, mossy, and citrusy notes, providing a timeless and sophisticated scent profile.

This expansion of the Le Dandy product line to include "Bouquet D'Orsay" further solidified the fragrance's position as a staple in the world of perfumery, offering consumers a versatile range of options to experience its timeless elegance and sophistication in various forms and occasions.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued. The discontinuation of a perfume can be influenced by various factors, including changes in consumer preferences, shifts in market trends, production costs, and strategic decisions made by the brand or parent company. 

Men's Version:

A reformulated version of Le Dandy, launched in 2009 under the direction of perfumer Dominique Preyssas, offers a contemporary interpretation of the classic fragrance while retaining its essence of sophistication and charm. 

So what does it smell like? Le Dandy is classified as a woody spicy fragrance for men. It is quite different than the original perfume.

• Top notes; whiskey, rum, peach, pineapple and plum
• Middle notes: ginger, nutmeg, cardamon, cinnamon and clove
• Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, patchouli, tonka bean, peru balsam and tobacco

Here's a breakdown of its scent profile:

Classification: Le Dandy is classified as a woody spicy fragrance for men, signaling its character as a refined and masculine scent with warm and aromatic qualities.

• Top notes: The fragrance opens with a bold and spirited blend of whiskey, rum, peach, pineapple, and plum. These fruity and boozy accords create a vibrant and intoxicating introduction, setting the stage for the layers of complexity to follow.

• Middle notes: In the heart of the fragrance, spicy and aromatic notes take center stage, including ginger, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, and clove. These spices add depth and warmth to the composition, infusing it with a sensual and captivating allure.

• Base notes: The fragrance concludes with a rich and enveloping base, featuring notes of sandalwood, benzoin, patchouli, tonka bean, Peru balsam, and tobacco. These base notes provide a smooth and velvety foundation, leaving a lasting impression of sophistication and refinement.

Overall, the reformulated version of Le Dandy offers a modern and dynamic interpretation of the classic fragrance, with a focus on rich and indulgent ingredients that evoke a sense of luxury and allure. The combination of fruity, spicy, and woody accords creates a multifaceted scent experience that is both distinctive and memorable, making it a worthy addition to the legacy of the original Le Dandy.

Women's Version:

In 2010, D'Orsay launched the feminine version of Le Dandy and christened it La Dandy Pour Femme. 

So what does La Dandy smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women, with dominant notes of peach, clove and cinnamon.

• Top notes: peach, bergamot, aldehydes
• Middle notes: cinnamon, jasmine, ylang-ylang, freesia, clove and cardamom
• Base notes: vetiver, tonka beans, honey, benzoin, tobacco, sandalwood, tolu balsam and musk

La Dandy Pour Femme, launched by D'Orsay in 2010, offers a feminine counterpart to the classic Le Dandy fragrance, reimagining its essence with a distinctive blend of floral, woody, and musky accords. Here's a breakdown of its scent profile:

Classification: La Dandy Pour Femme is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women, suggesting a delicate yet captivating aroma that combines floral notes with warm and sensual undertones.

• Top notes: The fragrance opens with a burst of freshness and vibrancy, featuring notes of peach, bergamot, and aldehydes. These bright and uplifting accords create an inviting and luminous introduction to the scent, setting the stage for the layers of complexity to unfold.

• Middle notes: In the heart of the fragrance, a rich bouquet of floral and spicy notes takes center stage. Cinnamon, jasmine, ylang-ylang, freesia, clove, and cardamom blend harmoniously to evoke a sense of warmth and elegance, adding depth and complexity to the composition.

• Base notes: The fragrance concludes with a sensual and enveloping base, featuring notes of vetiver, tonka beans, honey, benzoin, tobacco, sandalwood, tolu balsam, and musk. These base notes provide a warm and velvety foundation, leaving a lingering trail of sophistication and allure.

Overall, La Dandy Pour Femme offers a modern and feminine interpretation of the classic Le Dandy fragrance, with a focus on floral and spicy accords balanced by warm and musky undertones. The result is a captivating and versatile scent that exudes elegance and refinement, making it a worthy addition to the D'Orsay fragrance collection.