Cigalia by Roger et Gallet c1910

"Cigalia" by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1910, a period that coincided with the height of the Art Nouveau movement. This era, spanning roughly from 1890 to 1910, was characterized by its emphasis on natural forms, intricate lines, and organic motifs. Insects, particularly those with intricate and delicate forms like cicadas, became popular symbols and design elements in various forms of art, jewelry, and fashion. The appreciation of nature's elegance and complexity resonated deeply with the cultural and artistic sensibilities of the time.

The name "Cigalia" is derived from the word "cigale," which means "cicada" in French. Cicadas are known for their distinctive life cycle and the loud, rhythmic songs produced by the males to attract females. These insects are particularly famous for emerging en masse after spending years underground as nymphs, a phenomenon that has captured human fascination for centuries. Their emergence is often associated with the arrival of summer, symbolizing renewal and the passage of time.

The sound cicadas make is a high-pitched, continuous buzz, produced by the rapid buckling of tymbals, a part of their exoskeleton. This sound is synonymous with the heat of summer and the fullness of nature's bloom. Cicadas typically emerge during the warmer months, their life cycles synchronized with the seasons to maximize the chances of survival for their offspring.

In cultural symbolism, cicadas often represent longevity, immortality, and rebirth due to their unique life cycle. In various traditions, they are seen as harbingers of change and transformation, making "Cigalia" a name imbued with rich and evocative meanings. For a perfume, this name suggests a sense of timelessness, renewal, and the beauty of nature, qualities that would have been appealing to the sophisticated women of the Belle Époque.

Women of the early 20th century, particularly those influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, would likely have found the name "Cigalia" both intriguing and enchanting. The imagery of cicadas, combined with the floral chypre fragrance, would evoke thoughts of warm summer nights, the vibrancy of nature, and the allure of transformation. The motif of two cicadas facing each other on the packaging further emphasizes themes of harmony and natural beauty, aligning well with contemporary aesthetic tastes.

In the context of the Belle Époque, a time marked by optimism, artistic innovation, and a fascination with nature, "Cigalia" would have stood out as a unique and captivating name for a perfume. It would evoke images of lush gardens, the symphony of nature, and the elegance of intricate Art Nouveau designs. The emotional response to this perfume would likely include a sense of nostalgia, romance, and an appreciation for the delicate balance between beauty and nature.

Overall, "Cigalia" would be interpreted as a poetic and sophisticated choice, reflective of the era's artistic and cultural values. It would appeal to women who cherished the elegance of the natural world and the subtle complexities of a finely crafted fragrance. The name itself, with its connections to the timeless and transformative qualities of cicadas, would make it a standout choice in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, geranium, lemon, neroli, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: jasmine, Florentine iris, Bulgarian rose, heliotrope, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: spices, ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, tonka, tobacco, musk

Scent Story:

As a Belle Époque woman exploring the woods, the sensory experience begins the moment I step into the shadowy embrace of the forest. The air is cool and crisp, filled with the fresh scent of ferns, their green fronds damp from the morning dew. The top notes of Cigalia come alive here, with the ferns mingling with the bright, zesty aroma of bergamot and lemon, which cut through the cool air with a sparkling freshness. The gentle sweetness of geranium and the soft floral scent of neroli add a delicate complexity, while the lily of the valley brings a faint, ethereal touch that seems to float on the breeze.

As I venture deeper, the sounds of birds flitting from branch to branch accompany my steps, their songs mingling with the rhythmic calls of cicadas, creating a symphony of nature. The forest floor, a soft carpet of fallen leaves and undergrowth, cushions my feet. I can see the wildflowers peeking out, their vibrant colors contrasting against the earthy tones. This is where the middle notes of Cigalia begin to reveal themselves. The calming scent of lavender soothes my senses, blending with the intoxicating aromas of jasmine and Bulgarian rose, which add a rich, floral heart to the fragrance. The exotic notes of tuberose and ylang-ylang weave through the air, creating an opulent bouquet that is both lush and alluring. The powdery essence of Florentine iris and the sweet, almost almond-like scent of heliotrope linger softly, adding depth and a hint of nostalgia.

My fingers brush against the rough bark of ancient oaks, covered in a thick layer of moss, soft and cool to the touch. The base notes of Cigalia come forth as I imagine the undercurrent of spices, which add warmth and a touch of mystery. The creamy, woody scent of sandalwood and the earthy richness of vetiver rise from the forest floor, blending with the smoky, sweet aroma of tobacco leaves that lie scattered among the underbrush. Ambergris adds a subtle, oceanic depth, while labdanum provides a resinous, slightly leathery nuance. The sweetness of vanilla and the creamy, nutty scent of tonka bean wrap around me, creating a comforting cocoon. The musky, earthy aroma of oakmoss and patchouli ground the fragrance, adding a sense of timelessness and connection to the earth.

As I breathe in deeply, I can taste the freshness of the forest air, tinged with the subtle sweetness of flowers and the faint bitterness of green foliage. The sights, sounds, and scents of the forest blend into a rich tapestry, each element enhancing the other. The perfume, Cigalia, mirrors this intricate experience, capturing the essence of the woods with its complex, layered notes. It evokes emotions of wonder, tranquility, and a deep connection to nature, making it a perfect companion for a woman of the Belle Époque, who cherishes both the elegance of the natural world and the art of perfumery.

Product Line:

Cigalia's product line was a stunning reflection of the Belle Époque’s elegance and artistry. The Parfum (extrait) was the crown jewel, encased in a crystal bottle designed by the renowned René Lalique, whose craftsmanship epitomized luxury. This bottle, an exquisite work of art, complemented the rich and intricate fragrance it held, making it a prized possession for any sophisticated woman.

The soap was a marvel of design, molded into the shape of the double cicada motif and housed inside a wooden presentation box lined with crumpled silk. This unique presentation not only preserved the soap's delicate form but also enhanced the experience of unwrapping it, evoking a sense of luxury and attention to detail.

The face powder, known as Poudre de Riz, was housed in a sumptuous powder box made of clear and frosted crystal. Each corner of the lid was molded with a cicada, whose wings stretched down to the base of the powder box. This design element added a tactile and visual elegance, making the powder box a centerpiece on any vanity, reflecting the sophistication and style of its owner.

Friction lotion and Eau de Toilette were also presented in Lalique crystal bottles, ensuring that each aspect of the beauty routine was imbued with the same level of grandeur. These crystal bottles added an extra touch of refinement, transforming daily rituals into luxurious experiences.

The crystalized brilliantine, used to add a lustrous shine to the hair, came in either a fancy Lalique crystal pot or a more practical aluminum pot. The Lalique crystal pot was a testament to opulence, perfect for special occasions, while the aluminum pot offered durability and convenience for everyday use.

René Lalique's design for the Cigalia line's wooden presentation boxes was a testament to the exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined the Belle Époque. These boxes were true masterpieces, meticulously crafted to mirror the intricate beauty of the Cigalia bottles. Each box was pressed into shape, ensuring a sturdy yet elegant form. The surfaces were then adorned with woodburning techniques, adding fine details that highlighted the natural grain of the wood. Hand coloring was used to bring these details to life, enhancing the overall aesthetic and making each box unique.

The lids of the boxes featured a motif of two cicadas facing each other, a design choice that echoed the motifs found on the bottles. This not only reinforced the brand's identity but also created a cohesive and harmonious visual theme across the entire product line. The cicadas, with their delicate wings and natural elegance, symbolized the beauty and sophistication that Cigalia aimed to embody. This motif was more than just decorative; it was a celebration of nature's intricate designs, perfectly aligning with the Art Nouveau movement's emphasis on organic forms and natural beauty.

The packaging was not only visually stunning but also functional, providing a protective enclosure for the precious contents inside. Each item, whether it was the Parfum (extrait) in its René Lalique crystal bottle, the molded soap with its double cicada motif, the face powder (poudre de riz) in a Lalique crystal pot, or the crystalized brilliantine, was carefully housed in these exquisite boxes. The thoughtful design ensured that the products were safeguarded while also presenting them in a way that elevated their luxurious appeal.

In essence, the Cigalia line was a celebration of beauty, nature, and exquisite craftsmanship. Each product was more than just a beauty item; it was a piece of art that captured the essence of the era. The cohesive design, from the intricate details of the bottles and jars to the beautifully crafted wooden boxes, reflected the sophistication and artistic excellence of the time. René Lalique's work on the Cigalia line remains a shining example of the seamless blend of functionality and artistry, making each item a treasured piece that embodied the luxury and elegance of the Belle Époque.

Bottles:

Cigalia's exquisite Art Nouveau bottle, designed by René Lalique, was a true masterpiece of early 20th-century craftsmanship and design. Available in four sizes, the tapering rectangular bottle was an embodiment of Lalique's genius and the era's fascination with nature. Each corner of the bottle was meticulously molded with a frosted winged cicada, creating a delicate and intricate design that captured the elegance and beauty of these insects. The lozenge-shaped stopper was adorned with stylized branches, adding to the naturalistic theme and further enhancing the bottle's aesthetic appeal. To complete the artistic process, the bottle was given a cold patination in green stain, which provided a subtle, enchanting finish that highlighted the intricate details.

The flacon was housed in a similarly decorated wooden box, which complemented the bottle's design and protected its delicate structure. The boxes were crafted with the same attention to detail, featuring motifs that echoed the cicada theme and enhanced the overall presentation. This packaging not only preserved the bottle but also added an element of luxury and sophistication, making it a treasured item for any collector or discerning customer.

Notably, author Félix Marcilhac mentioned that the smallest bottle of Cigalia was not signed by Lalique. This detail is important for collectors, as it ensures that even unsigned pieces are authentic and hold the same artistic value. The first three versions of this design, created for Roger et Gallet in 1923, were smaller and had a squarer form, showcasing Lalique's ability to adapt his designs to different formats while maintaining their artistic integrity.

A review from The Spur in 1911 vividly described the bottle's unique design: "For La Cigalia, the stopper of the bottle has the lines typical of a grasshopper or locust's wing and each corner of the flacon is cut out to represent a locust with his long wings folded and looking for all the world as though he were trying to prove his resemblance to a lady of the smart set wearing a brand new opera cloak of narrow silhouette cut from a fabric with an etched design." This poetic description captures the essence of the bottle's design, likening the elegant lines and detailed craftsmanship to the refined fashion of the time, and highlighting the harmonious blend of nature and sophistication that Lalique achieved.

In summary, Cigalia's Art Nouveau bottle by René Lalique was a stunning representation of early 20th-century design, blending natural motifs with elegant craftsmanship. The attention to detail, from the frosted winged locusts to the stylized stopper and green patination, made each bottle a work of art. The similarly decorated wooden boxes and the historical context provided by reviews and notes from the period further enhance the allure and value of these beautiful creations.

Cigalia by Roger et Gallet. Perfume Bottle in original presentation case, made up of clear and frosted glass with applied patina,12.5cm high, etched 'R. Lalique France'.

Another size bottle was also made for this perfume by Lalique, it is taller and skinnier, please see second photo.

Brilliantine or Cream Pot:

A small jar used for the skin cream, also known as a "pot de crème," adds another layer of rarity and charm to the Cigalia collection. These jars would have been used to hold luxurious creams and lotions, enhancing the daily skincare routine with a touch of elegance and sophistication. It was probably used for the solid brilliantine.

Like the powder box and skin pot de crème, the small jar features the same decorative motif of cicadas and intricate molding, tying it seamlessly to the rest of the collection. This consistency in design not only speaks to the attention to detail of the artisans involved but also creates a sense of harmony and coherence among the different pieces.

Given its rarity, the small jar for skin cream would be a prized addition to any collection of vintage perfume accessories. Its presence would not only elevate the aesthetic appeal of a vanity table but also serve as a tangible link to the glamour and refinement of the past.

Powder Box:

A sumptuous powder box was made up of clear and frosted crystal, each corner of the lid is molded with a cicada whose wings stretch down to the base of the powder box. The combination of clear and frosted crystal adds a luxurious and ethereal quality to the piece, creating a captivating visual effect. The use of cicadas as decorative elements, with their wings stretching down to the base of the box, further enhances the Art Nouveau aesthetic and ties in beautifully with the fragrance's name and theme.

Cicadas, with their association with summer and warmth, symbolize rejuvenation and transformation, making them a fitting motif for a fragrance that likely evokes a sense of timeless elegance and femininity.

The attention to detail in the design, from the intricate molding of the cicadas to the overall composition of the box, reflects the craftsmanship and artistry of the period. It's easy to imagine this powder box adorning a vanity table, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the daily ritual of applying fragrance and cosmetics.

Soap:

Cigalia was also available as a luxurious scented soap, colored a rich chestnut brown and molded in the shape of two cicadas facing each other. The use of a chestnut brown color for the soap suggests a warmth and richness that would complement the fragrance notes beautifully. The molded shape of two cicadas facing each other adds a whimsical and elegant touch, tying it seamlessly to the overall motif of the collection.

The inclusion of a decorated wooden box, similar to those used for the perfume flacon, further enhances the luxurious presentation of the soap. Housing the soap in such an ornate box not only protects the product but also elevates it to the status of a coveted luxury item. The detail of the soap resting on a bed of crumpled silk adds another layer of opulence and sophistication. It's as if every aspect of the presentation has been carefully considered to evoke a sense of indulgence and pampering for the user.

Overall, the Cigalia scented soap seems like a true delight for the senses, offering not only a luxurious cleansing experience but also a feast for the eyes with its beautifully crafted packaging and presentation.

Gift Sets:

Luxurious gift sets were also offered.

Photos by Drouot

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Cigalia has been discontinued for many years, it was released for a limited time as eau parfumee in 1967, it was discontinued shortly after reintroduction and remains a rare find today.

"Cigalia by Roger et Gallet, an eau parfumee refreshingly new, blending a touch of tradition with the sparkle of today. Roger and Gallet had the happy inspiration to add to the precious essences which smell of cicadas and woods, an original formula of modern chypre which appeals to all ages. Traditional French essences blend with vetiver and geranium to make this opulent new fragrance which perfectly meets the demands of today's women. Unconventional. Light as laughter. Cool as shade in the summer sun. Elegant, always in the delightfully casual way.

• Top notes: bergamot
• Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, amber, cedar, tonka bean

The fragrance was available in the following sizes:

• 4 oz
• 7 oz 
• 12 oz

It's unfortunate that Cigalia has been discontinued for so many years, especially considering its rich history and luxurious presentation. The limited release of the eau parfumée version in 1967 and its subsequent discontinuation only add to its mystique and desirability among collectors and enthusiasts.

With its rarity and elusive nature, finding a bottle of Cigalia today would indeed be a rare and exciting discovery. Its status as a sought-after fragrance speaks to its enduring appeal and the lasting impression it made during its brief time on the market.

For those fortunate enough to encounter a bottle of Cigalia, it would be like unearthing a hidden treasure—a chance to experience a piece of olfactory history and indulge in the luxury and sophistication of a bygone era.