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Saturday, May 18, 2024

Tornade by Revillon c1935

In 1935, when Revillon launched their perfume "Tornade," the world was deep in the throes of the Great Depression. This period was marked by severe economic hardship, mass unemployment, and widespread poverty. Despite these challenges, people sought escapism and solace through various forms of entertainment and luxury, even in small doses. Romantic love often served as a refuge, a timeless narrative that continued to captivate hearts and minds during these tough times. The era's cinema, often referred to as the Golden Age of Hollywood, frequently featured themes of romantic love, offering a blend of fantasy and hope that resonated deeply with audiences. Films such as "Top Hat" (1935) with its lighthearted romance, and "Mutiny on the Bounty" (1935), though more adventurous, still carried underlying currents of personal and emotional relationships, were reflective of this trend.

The choice of the name "Tornade" by furriers Revillon is intriguing and multifaceted. "Tornade," the French word for "tornado," evokes a sense of powerful, swirling forces, and dramatic upheaval. This name suggests a perfume that is bold, intense, and capable of leaving a strong impression—much like the natural phenomenon it is named after. For Revillon, a renowned furrier branching into luxury fragrances, "Tornade" symbolized an intense, irresistible force of nature, aligning with the high impact they likely aimed to achieve with their perfume. The name conjures images of passion, unpredictability, and a whirlwind of emotions, all of which are potent associations for a fragrance meant to captivate and enchant.

Women of the 1930s might have found the name "Tornade" particularly compelling. The era’s societal constraints were being challenged, and women were beginning to explore more liberated forms of self-expression. A perfume named "Tornade" would have appealed to the modern woman’s desire for something daring and exciting, something that stood out in stark contrast to the everyday struggles of the Depression. The perfume’s name would evoke a sense of drama and allure, qualities that women might aspire to embody or be attracted to during a time when escapism through beauty and personal care products was a form of subtle rebellion against the harshness of reality.

The imagery and emotions evoked by the word "Tornade" are powerful and vivid. It suggests a tempestuous, all-consuming experience, stirring up notions of intensity and unstoppable force. This makes "Tornade" a unique and memorable name for a perfume, one that promises more than just a pleasant scent but an evocative and transformative experience. The interpretation of "Tornade" as a perfume name would be one of boldness and passion, likely to intrigue and attract those seeking to make a strong, lasting impression.

However, the name "Tornade" might not have resonated as well with Americans who had suffered through the Dust Bowl. The Dust Bowl, a period of severe dust storms causing major agricultural damage in the 1930s, left deep scars on the American psyche. For those who experienced or were affected by this environmental disaster, the term "tornado" could bring back traumatic memories of destruction and despair. Thus, while "Tornade" might embody a sense of dramatic allure and intensity in a European context, it might have been off-putting for an American audience who associated such storms with loss and hardship. The name could potentially turn them off, reminding them of the harsh realities they sought to escape rather than providing the desired sense of luxury and romantic escapism.



Tornade retailed for $12.50 per ounce in 1936.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was a heavy, warm oriental fragrance for women with a blend of precious woods and opulent animalic notes.
  • Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, cinnamon, nutmeg, neroli, cloves
  • Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, spices, ylang ylang, orris, gardenia
  • Base notes: cedar, Mysore sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, benzoin, vanilla, incense, tonka bean, oakmoss, castoreum, labdanum, vetiver, myrrh, patchouli, styrax, rosewood


Stage, 1935:
"Also — there is Revillon Freres' new perfume — they're the fur people, and they ought to know. The perfume is called Latitude 50 (that's the latitude of Paris) and comes in a tall, skyscraper shaped bottle. They make Tornade, too — another fur perfume."


Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Tornade de Revillon: Warm and moving. An aftertaste of incense gives it mystery."


Adam, 1937:

"Besides, isn't Revillon presenting its Tornade perfume in America as the perfume for the skin of a divorcee and accompanying it with a "sex appeal" comment? If you come back from Reno (it's the American city specializing in divorces), the perfume you need is Tornade, a Revillon perfume for the skin. This luxurious essence for jaded people and an ingenious bouquet of precious wood oil, a powerful smell of the jungle contained in the extract of sable glands. Put some, not on your handkerchief or your dress, but put some touches on six places of your skin. Then go to a cocktail and may Allah protect you."


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Tornade by Revillon: As in a whirlwind, this perfume dominates you and leads you into an exhilarating farandole. Then it evokes, as it subsides, the smell of flint and warm humidity which, after the storm, rises from the impregnated and satisfied earth."


Scent Profile:


 As I inhale deeply, the top notes of "Tornade" envelop me in a warm, spicy embrace, like the first rush of passionate love. The initial burst of bergamot and mandarin is bright and citrusy, a zesty spark that feels like the exhilarating anticipation of a first kiss. This freshness is quickly warmed by the aromatic sweetness of cinnamon and nutmeg, mingling with the floral and slightly bitter essence of neroli. Cloves add a spicy depth, wrapping around me like a lover's whispered secrets, igniting my senses. The air seems to hum with a vibrant energy, and I can almost hear the distant strains of a romantic melody playing, the atmosphere charged with possibility and excitement.

As the fragrance settles, the middle notes bloom, revealing a rich bouquet of florals interwoven with spices. The heady scent of carnation is lush and slightly peppery, evoking the feeling of holding a delicate yet fiery bouquet. Rose and jasmine intermingle, their intoxicating aromas reminiscent of moonlit garden strolls, where every flower seems to whisper its own tale of love and longing. The orange blossom is fresh and slightly sweet, a delicate counterpoint to the exotic richness of ylang-ylang and the earthy, root-like scent of orris. Gardenia adds a creamy, opulent layer, creating a luxurious tapestry of scents. I can almost feel the soft petals brushing against my skin, their colors vivid and alive, as if I am surrounded by a garden in full bloom under a twilight sky.

Finally, the base notes unfold, grounding the fragrance with their deep, warm, and sensual accords. The scent of cedar and Mysore sandalwood is smooth and woody, evoking the touch of polished wood beneath my fingers, sturdy and comforting. Musk and civet add an animalic warmth, a raw and primal undertone that pulses with the rhythm of a passionate heart. Ambergris and benzoin lend a resinous, slightly sweet depth, like honeyed whispers in the dark. 

Vanilla and tonka bean infuse a creamy, gourmand sweetness, tantalizing like a lingering taste of a decadent dessert shared with a lover. Incense and myrrh weave an ethereal smokiness, like the curling tendrils of a mysterious, sacred ritual. Patchouli and vetiver add an earthy, grounding note, rich and robust, while oakmoss and castoreum bring a mossy, leathery complexity, reminiscent of an old library filled with leather-bound books. Labdanum and styrax impart a balsamic, resinous sweetness, while rosewood and a touch of the exotic blend seamlessly, creating an intoxicating and unforgettable finale.

The entirety of "Tornade" is a sensory journey, a passionate whirlwind of love that touches upon every emotion and sense. It is a fragrance that speaks of intensity, romance, and an undeniable allure, each note playing its part in a symphony of scent that is as unforgettable as a lover's embrace. The name "Tornade" captures this perfectly, evoking the powerful, all-consuming nature of love that sweeps you off your feet and leaves you breathless.


 

Bottles:

 



Esquire - Volume 7, 1937:
"FOR, almost a century women loved by the men of Revillon awaited breathlessly for the annual shipment of raw sables from Tibet. It was not only for the gossamer-soft brown fur of queens they waited. It was for a small, hide-bound flask of perfume that was always found hidden away in the heart of each bale of sable skins. The annual gift of a Tibetan tribe to the house of Revillon, this flask contained a rare and enchanted perfume that went to the heads of men like wine; a scent so subtle, so alluring, that women of royal blood coaxed for even a few drops of the of the precious fragrance. 
Time and again, the Revillons tried to acquire the formula, but each offer was met with polite refusal. The scent of princesses was not for sale. And so, this strange and fascinating redolence remained one of the mysteries of the east until several years ago, a young Revillon entered the frm of his fathers.  
Like every Revillon who goes into this business, he was forced to serve his two-year apprenticeship in the far-flung outposts of the company. How, during his visit to Tibet, he saved the life of a chieftain's son is another story, glamorous as any tale of the cinema.  But it is your good fortune that his reward for this service was the gift of the formula for making the Tibetan perfume which his family had sought for a century. 
Hormones from the glands of sable lend subtle charm to these perfumes for the skin. 
Now imprisoned in lovely flacons of flashing crystal are four perfumes that bear the stamp of Revillon. Tornade, Latitude 50, Egoiste, Amou Daria. Unlike ordinary perfumes, these Parfums Revillon are not applied to the outer garments but are placed directly on the person. When they are correctly used, as they are now in Paris, they are interpreted differently by every woman who wears them.
Then they become not merely a scent to be put on and off with every gown, but an enchantment of the very being of the individual, until the body itself gives off its own glorious perfume like an exotic flower.   
Today, these perfumes may be yours if you can afford them. Frankly their cost is high because their ingredients are extremely rare and costly. Since our supply is limited we in turn are forced to limit their sale to fifty stores in the entire united States. 
If you are unable to purchase Parfums Revillon for the skin we will undertake to supply you by air mail, postpaid. We cannot guarantee prices after January  1, 1937, since our costs are dependent upon the world catch of sables. Parfums Revillon 684 Fifth Avenue, new York, NY. 
If you want to be thought extremely generous by some very attractive lady, we suggest you send her the 5 ounce bottle of Tornade for $60. 
 Prices by the ounce: Amou Daria, $12.50; Tornade, $12.50; Latitude 50, $14.50; Egoiste (in 3 ounce bottles only), $30."


Esquire, 1937:
"Tornade...a Divorcee's Parfum for the Skin. If you are just back from Reno, the perfume propre is Tornade, another Revillon parfum for the skin. This wicked essence of sophistication is a cunning bouquet of precious wood oils, a jungle redolence imprisoned in an extract from the glands of sables. Apply it, not to your hanky or gown, but touch it sparingly to six places on your skin. Then off to cocktails and may Allah protect you!"



 


The New Yorker, 1947:
"Made, bottled, sealed entirely in France. Revillon perfumes are again being imported into the United Slates in limited quantities. PARFUMS REVILLON PARIS - CARNET DE BAL - LATITUDE 50 - TORNADE  - AMOU DARIA."

Cue, 1949:
"Things Parisian have  strong fascination for Americans and the real connoisseurs are enthusiastic now that the French perfumes have been coming in again in greater abundance. Back with us in quantity is Carnet de Bal, along with those other wonderful Revillon fragrances — Tornade, Latitude 50. Amou Daria and Eau Marveilleuse. Revillon perfumes are made, bottled and sealed in France, which should make the perfectionists even happier."

Fodor's France, 1951:
"Revillon, 42, Rue la Boetie. "Amou Daria" — good with furs ; "Carnet de Bal" — nostalgic ; "Latitude 50" — for brunettes or blondes ; "Tornade"— heavy."



Stepped Bottles:


The exquisite packaging of Tornade by Revillon truly reflects the elegance and sophistication of the perfume. The French crystal bottles, crafted in the typical Art Deco style of the 1930s, exudes a sense of luxury and refinement. This bottle was available in various sizes and was used to hold several different Revillon parfums.  

The large version is a heavy, chunky glass bottle with a squared base is molded with three rounded edge "steps." This bottle stands 4.25" tall and holds 6 ounces. It held the "Tornade Fluide Parfum Total." I believe this chunky shape was also used for two other sizes, standing 5" and 5.5" tall. 

The large size, with its heavy, chunky glass and squared base molded with three rounded edge "steps," would have been a striking centerpiece for any dressing table. The 6-ounce capacity of this bottle would have allowed fragrance enthusiasts to indulge in their favorite scent for an extended period.

Also created was smaller sizes holding both 1 oz and 1/2 ounces of parfum, are contained inside a narrow glass bottle with a rectangular base.  It mimics the shape of the larger bottle, just in a narrower profile. Both bottles have a ground glass stopper, following the lines of the bottle. 

The smaller sizes, Despite their reduced size, these bottles still maintain the elegance and charm of the larger version, with a narrow glass body and rectangular base that mimics the design of their larger counterpart.

The inclusion of a ground glass stopper that follows the lines of the bottle adds a finishing touch of sophistication to the packaging, ensuring a seamless and visually appealing presentation.

Overall, the attention to detail in the design of these bottles reflects the care and craftsmanship that went into creating Tornade by Revillon, making it not only a delightful fragrance but also a coveted collector's item for enthusiasts of vintage perfumes and Art Deco design.









Wing Bottles:


These bottle below look as if they have wings, so I have dubbed them the "wing bottles". The "wing bottles" are exceptionally unique and visually striking, embodying the elegance and innovation characteristic of Revillon's packaging during the Art Deco period. These bottles, with their distinct "winged" appearance and luxurious stoppers, would have made a beautiful presentation for any perfume.

Key Features of the Wing Bottles:

Design and Appearance: The "wing bottles" have a distinctive shape that gives the impression of wings, adding an element of grace and movement to the design. The heavily silvered or gilded glass stoppers enhance their luxurious appeal, although some versions with clear glass stoppers maintain a more understated elegance.

Markings: Each bottle is acid-etched with the mark "Revillon Paris Made in France," which signifies its authenticity and origin, adding to its collectible value.

Sizes:

The wing bottles were available in various sizes, providing options for different uses and preferences:

  • 2.25" tall
  • 2.5" tall
  • 3.25" tall
  • 3" tall
  • 4.25" tall
  • 1.75 oz

These varying sizes would cater to different consumer needs, from those wanting a small, portable option to those preferring a larger, more substantial bottle for their vanity.


Usage:

Given their design and elegance, these wing bottles would have been used to hold some of Revillon's finest parfums. The range of sizes also suggests versatility, with smaller bottles likely intended for more personal, on-the-go use and larger bottles designed to be a luxurious fixture in one's personal collection.


Collectibility:

The unique design, luxurious materials, and the historical context of these bottles make them highly desirable for collectors. They are a testament to Revillon's dedication to combining artistry and functionality in their product packaging.

In summary, the "wing bottles" represent a perfect blend of artistic design and practicality, embodying the sophistication and elegance of the Art Deco era while serving as a beautiful vessel for Revillon's esteemed fragrances.


 

Fate of the Fragrance:



Tornade by Revillon emerged onto the perfume scene in 1935, a time when fragrances offered not just a scent but an entire sensory experience. With its heavy, warm oriental composition blending precious woods and opulent animalic notes, Tornade was a perfume designed to captivate and allure. Its allure extended beyond the fragrance itself; Tornade was presented in luxurious and intricate bottle designs, embodying the elegance and sophistication of its era.

Despite its initial success and popularity, Tornade eventually faced the fate that many perfumes encounter over time. By 1953, evidence suggests that Tornade was still available for sale, albeit at significantly reduced prices. This markdown likely indicated that the perfume was being phased out or discontinued altogether. The market context of the early 1950s saw shifts in consumer preferences and the introduction of new fragrances, reflecting changing tastes and trends in the post-war period.

The discontinuation of Tornade marked the end of an era for a perfume that had once epitomized luxury and allure. Its departure from the shelves left behind memories of its complex and evocative scent, as well as the beautifully crafted bottles that had graced dressing tables and vanity counters. While exact reasons for its discontinuation remain unclear, Tornade by Revillon remains a testament to the ephemeral nature of perfumes, capturing a moment in time when fragrance was as much about artistry and storytelling as it was about scent itself.


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