Souvenir d'un Soir by Mary Chess c1956

"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess, launched in 1956, carries with it an air of nostalgia and romance from its very name. The phrase, which translates from French to "Memory of an Evening," evokes a sense of wistful reflection on a singular, enchanting moment, possibly an unforgettable night filled with intrigue, romance, or personal significance. The use of French in the name imbues the fragrance with a European sophistication and allure, a common marketing approach in post-war America, where French culture and fashion were seen as the epitome of elegance and refinement.

The imagery conjured by "Souvenir d'un Soir" is delicate yet profound. It brings to mind an evening gown, the sound of soft music playing in a dimly lit room, and the sparkle of chandeliers reflecting in champagne glasses. It speaks of fleeting beauty, the mystery of twilight, and the emotions of a moment suspended in time. The word "souvenir" suggests that this fragrance is not just an aroma but a keepsake—a way to preserve the memories of a special night. The idea of capturing such emotions in a scent gives the fragrance a personal, intimate appeal, as if one could bottle the very essence of a cherished evening.

In terms of scent, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would likely be interpreted as something ephemeral yet striking. As an aldehydic floral fragrance, it would open with that characteristic aldehydic sparkle—dry, crisp, and slightly metallic. Aldehydes bring a freshness, often described as brisk or champagne-like, which immediately sets the tone of elegance and cool detachment. These top notes would likely give way to a heart filled with classic florals, likely including roses and jasmine, which could suggest the classic glamour of the time. The "dry" quality of the fragrance points to an almost powdery or restrained floral bouquet, where sweetness is tempered by a more mature, sophisticated dryness that mirrors the fleeting nature of a memory. The briskness would evoke an energy, a fleeting sharpness that dissipates quickly, leaving behind a softer, lingering floral essence.

In the mid-1950s, American women were balancing traditional roles with newfound freedoms. The post-war era brought both stability and the growing influence of modernity. Perfumes like "Souvenir d'un Soir" would have resonated with women who sought to embrace the elegance of the past while stepping confidently into the future. It symbolized sophistication, emotional depth, and the allure of feminine mystique.

For American women of the time, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would represent a subtle form of rebellion against the domesticity expected of them. It was a fragrance that carried connotations of independence, personal reflection, and the desire to capture fleeting moments in a world that was changing rapidly. The name itself suggests something personal—a memory not shared, but quietly cherished, perhaps as a reminder of a time when they felt free, glamorous, or alive in ways beyond the everyday routine.

Launched in an era when women were embracing fashion, cinema, and modern ideas of femininity, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would be a scent that allowed them to embody both grace and individuality. It would symbolize a woman's ability to carry her memories of beauty, romance, and elegance with her, even as she faced the responsibilities and challenges of mid-century life.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a "dry, brisk floral."

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, cardamom
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar

Scent Story:

It was a crisp autumn morning in 1956 when Evelyn decided to visit the Pulitzer Fountain, a prominent landmark located in New York City's Central Park. The fountain, adorned with a magnificent depiction of Pomona, the Roman goddess of abundance, stood gracefully before her, symbolizing the beauty of nature and the bounty of the harvest. The elegance of the scene was heightened by the imposing presence of the Plaza Hotel on one side and the renowned Bergdorf Goodman department store on the other.

As Evelyn approached the fountain, the first thing she noticed was the lively sparkle of aldehydes in the air. The sharp, soapy effervescence felt like tiny bubbles popping all around her, adding a sense of bright cleanliness to the morning. Intermingling with this was the tangy zest of bergamot and lemon, their citrusy freshness cutting through the cool air with an invigorating clarity. The sweet floral hint of neroli danced lightly, bringing a delicate yet vibrant brightness that reminded her of blooming orange blossoms. A whisper of cardamom lingered, its warm, spicy aroma adding an unexpected and sophisticated twist to the mix.

Evelyn found a seat on the edge of the fountain, letting the soothing sound of the water calm her senses. As she sat, she was enveloped by the heart of the fragrance, where the floral symphony began to unfold. The rich, romantic scent of rose wafted through the air, filling her with a sense of timeless elegance and love. Next to it, the heady, sweet aroma of jasmine added a lush, exotic layer that felt both luxurious and inviting. The delicate, green notes of lily of the valley contributed a light, airy freshness, reminiscent of a serene spring morning. Underpinning these was the soft, powdery scent of orris, giving the floral bouquet a velvety depth that was both refined and comforting.

As Evelyn watched the morning sun reflect off the sparkling waters of the fountain, the base notes of the fragrance began to reveal themselves, grounding the floral exuberance with their rich, earthy warmth. The sweet, creamy essence of vanilla provided a comforting backdrop, while the sensual, clean undertone of musk lent a soft, animalic touch that lingered close to the skin. The golden richness of amber added a warm, resinous glow that felt almost like liquid sunlight. The woody, slightly creamy scent of sandalwood created a smooth, grounding effect, while the dry, earthy tones of oakmoss introduced a subtle bitterness, giving the fragrance a sophisticated edge. The smoky, grassy nuances of vetiver blended seamlessly with the dry, clean sharpness of cedar, creating a lasting impression of strength and elegance.

Evelyn's gaze drifted from the fountain to the grand entrance of Bergdorf Goodman, where the exclusive launch event for Mary Chess's "Souvenir d'Un Soir" was taking place at the Plaza Hotel. The fragrance, with its exquisite bottle design and captivating scent, was being showcased to discerning clientele. The luxury and elegance of the setting perfectly mirrored the opulence of the scent itself, making it a fitting tribute to the sophisticated women who would come to cherish it.

With a final glance at the fountain, Evelyn rose and made her way towards the hotel, the dry, brisk floral scent of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" still lingering in her senses, encapsulating the very essence of that unforgettable autumn morning in the heart of Manhattan.

Bottles:

The intricately designed perfume bottle of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" pays homage to the majestic Pulitzer Fountain, a prominent landmark located in New York City's Central Park. The fountain features a depiction of "Pomona," the Roman goddess of abundance, representing the beauty of nature and the bounty of the harvest. Positioned in front of the Plaza Hotel and adjacent to Bergdorf Goodman department store, the fountain stands as a symbol of luxury and elegance in the heart of Manhattan.

Bergdorf Goodman, renowned for its exclusive offerings of high-end fashion and luxury goods, served as the exclusive retailer of Mary Chess fragrances, further enhancing the prestige of the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation. The launch of this fragrance was celebrated with an event at the Plaza Hotel, showcasing the exquisite bottle design and captivating scent to discerning clientele.

Crafted in France, the figural bottles of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" exemplify exceptional artistry and attention to detail. Available in two sizes—4.75" tall for the larger version (holding 2 oz) and 3.5" tall for the smaller version (holding 0.25 oz) —these bottles captured the essence of the Pulitzer Fountain's grandeur and elegance. Unfortunately, I do not know who manufactured the French bottles, it could be Verreries Brosse or Verreries le Bresle. These glassmakers also have a history of producing beautiful bottles for various perfume brands. What I do know is that it was not produced by Lalique.

Additionally, non-figural bottles were produced by Wheaton, maintaining the fragrance's allure and sophistication.

"May the fountain at the plaza - one of New York's most beautiful landmarks bring back to you  -  The Memory of an Evening - Souvenir d'un Soir" is printed on the back of the hangtag.  The sentiment adds a poetic and nostalgic touch to the fragrance presentation. The message conjures images of romantic evenings spent amidst the elegance and grandeur of New York City.

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"MARY CHESS- New from France... SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR! A sparkling, modern perfume made exclusively for Mary Chess. French bottle is an exquisite replica of the Plaza Fountain."

The New Yorker, Vol 33,1956

"SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR- The newest of Mary Chess Perfumes -an exciting , modern blend compounded in France. A sparkling perfume for day and evening. Exquisite French bottle—a replica of the famous Saint-Gaudens fountain in New York's Plaza. 2 ozs. $45, 1/4 oz. $10, purse Flacon, $5. Aerosol Nuages de Parfum, $5. All plus tax." 

The descriptions of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" from Harper's Bazaar and The New Yorker in 1956 highlight the fragrance's debut as a luxurious and captivating addition to Mary Chess's perfume collection. The scent, hailed as "sparkling" and "modern," was exclusively crafted for Mary Chess, adding to the allure and exclusivity of the brand's offerings. 

The pricing information provided in The New Yorker further positions "Souvenir d'Un Soir" as a luxury item, with options ranging from 0.25 oz. bottles to larger 2 oz. sizes, as well as purse flacons and aerosol nuages de parfum. These offerings cater to different preferences and occasions, allowing consumers to experience the enchanting fragrance in various formats.

Overall, the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation exemplifies the fusion of art, luxury, and fragrance, offering a captivating olfactory experience paired with an exquisite bottle design inspired by one of New York City's most iconic landmarks.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of discontinuation is not widely documented. Like many fragrances, its availability likely depended on factors such as market trends, consumer demand, and the evolving product portfolio of Mary Chess over the years..