Conquete by Lancome c1935

Conquête by Lancôme, launched in 1935, emerged during a tumultuous and transformative era known as the Great Depression. This period was marked by widespread economic hardship, yet also saw a remarkable flourishing of creativity and escapism in popular culture. Amidst the struggles, there was a longing for romance, adventure, and heroism, which found expression in various forms of media, including films and fashion that often romanticized the medieval era, knights, and chivalric conquests.

The choice of the name "Conquête" for this perfume is particularly evocative and fitting for the time. The word "conquête" is French for "conquest," a term rich with historical and emotional resonance. It conjures images of knights, gallant battles, and the pursuit of noble goals, themes that were incredibly appealing during the Great Depression. These themes offered an escape from the harsh realities of daily life, providing a sense of grandeur and timeless elegance.

The medieval and chivalric themes were prevalent in other perfumes of the period as well, such as Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro and Sir Gallahad by Isabey. These names reflect a fascination with knights and romanticized history, suggesting a broader trend in the fragrance industry to draw upon these powerful and evocative themes.

Lancome’s Conquête would have resonated deeply with women of the era. The idea of "conquest" implied not only the heroic and adventurous aspects of medieval knights but also a sense of personal empowerment and allure. Women wearing Conquête might have felt a sense of participation in their own romantic and personal conquests, embodying both strength and elegance. The name suggests a perfume that is bold, captivating, and irresistibly alluring, much like the idealized knights of medieval romance.

The response to this perfume would likely have been one of admiration and aspiration. The imagery and emotions evoked by "Conquête" are potent: the thrill of victory, the allure of mystery, and the elegance of chivalric romance. This would make the name unique and memorable, setting the perfume apart in a crowded market by appealing directly to the emotional and imaginative needs of the consumers.

"Conquête" would be interpreted as a symbol of power and allure, a fitting tribute to the resilience and spirit of women during the Great Depression. It evokes a sense of triumph and determination, qualities that would be highly valued in such a challenging time. The medieval knightly imagery tied to conquest would inspire feelings of romantic adventure and timeless beauty, offering a form of escapism and a touch of fantasy.

In conclusion, Conquête by Lancôme, introduced by Armand Petitjean in 1935, is a perfume deeply rooted in the romantic and adventurous themes of medieval knights and conquests. It capitalized on the era's cultural trends and the emotional needs of its consumers, offering a sense of empowerment and allure that resonated powerfully during the Great Depression. Other perfumes of the time, like Chevalier de la Nuit and Sir Gallahad, similarly drew on these themes, reflecting a broader fascination with the noble and romantic ideals of the past.

Conquete was launched alongside four other new perfumes—Tropiques, Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Bocages—at the Universal Exhibition in Brussels, Conquête represents a bold exploration of olfactory elegance and sophistication.  

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre perfume with intense notes of rose and leather.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Tunisian orange, Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: carnation, pepper, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan rose
• Base notes: leather, Tibetan musk, Iranian galbanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, Cyprus labdanum

Armand Petitjean:

"Conquete, a concentrated fragrance of roses on a chypre base, will please any woman who likes to be noticed when she enters the theatre or a restaurant." 

Armand Petitjean:

"Conquête was a demonstration of mine. It was a symbol of conquest.  It was 
necessary to conquer the world to make the reputation of Lancome's willpower."

 

Paris-Alger, 1935:

"Lancome...These five new scents are: Kypre, velvety and flowery, deeper than ordinary chypre; Tendres Nuits, whose sweetness of exotic fruits surprises with a lavender opening; Bocages, scent of blonde, young and laughing, whose honeysuckle seems to emerge from a double base of jasmine and mimosa; Conquête, an aroma of intimate luxury, of the same inspiration as Chanel's 5, although the smell is different; Tropiques, which is exhaled in surprises, like a warm symphony in which the brilliance of the brass surprises."

Times Colonist, 1946:

"Perfectly named for it is indeed the forerunner of conquests and, as it passes, it leaves a track, radiating a powerful odor or roses, as it subsides, a beautiful flow of chypre ceaselessly upholds it. Colorful, sunny, dynamic, throwing out a thousand sparks before unwinding a long, sweet melody."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau parfumée a Conquete de Lancome: A peppery carnation, whose musky background, sharpens the perfidy, dominates the smell of the sleeping sultana of the rose. Lascivious notes of leather specify the Spanish journey to which this fragrance invites which, even diluted, requires the warm complexion of a nervous brunette like a Sevillian dancer. I see her cross, thus perfumed, a place cracked by the sun. A carnation with bloody jagged petals is slipped between her bronze ear and her nocturnal hair."

Scent Story:

As a beautiful medieval noblewoman, I sit in the grandstands, watching the jousting tournament with bated breath. The vibrant pennants flutter in the breeze, and the air is alive with the clashing of lances and the cheers of the crowd. The scene before me is a tapestry of chivalry and splendor, filled with vivid sensations and scents.

The opening notes of the perfume envelop me as I take a deep breath, mingling with the crisp morning air. I am greeted by the bright, effervescent scent of aldehydes, like the sparkling morning dew on the grass. The zesty burst of Sicilian lemon and Tunisian orange dances in the air, their citrusy sharpness invigorating my senses, much like the lively chatter and anticipation among the spectators. The Italian neroli adds a delicate, floral sweetness, reminiscent of the blossoms woven into my hair, while the Calabrian bergamot lends a slightly bitter, sophisticated edge, evoking the polished armor of the knights glinting in the sunlight.

As the knights charge at each other, their lances aimed with precision, the heart of the perfume unfolds. The rich, spicy warmth of carnation and pepper infuses the air, mirroring the intensity and excitement of the joust. The Bulgarian rose and Moroccan rose blend seamlessly, their deep, opulent floral notes creating a romantic and luxurious backdrop, much like the tapestry of noblemen and ladies adorned in their finest attire. The Florentine iris adds a powdery, elegant touch, as soft and refined as the silk of my gown, while the Egyptian jasmine introduces a sweet, intoxicating allure, akin to the thrill of watching my favorite knight, his prowess unmatched in the arena.

As the tournament reaches its climax, the base notes of the perfume begin to emerge, grounding me in a world of rich, earthy sophistication. The scent of leather is strong and robust, evoking the well-worn saddle of my knight's horse and the sturdy grip of his gloves. Tibetan musk adds an animalistic, sensual depth, while the Iranian galbanum brings a green, resinous note, reminiscent of the nearby forest where the knights often train. The Tyrolean oakmoss and Indonesian patchouli provide a damp, woody undertone, like the trampled grass of the jousting field.

The Mysore sandalwood lends a creamy, woody warmth, as comforting as the wooden stands under my fingertips, while ambergris imparts a soft, oceanic breeze, whispering of distant adventures. The Venezuelan tonka bean adds a sweet, vanillic touch, reminiscent of the fine pastries served at the feast that will follow the tournament, and the Cyprus labdanum wraps it all together with a rich, balsamic note, like the lingering smoke from the torches that will light the evening celebrations.

As I watch the final bout, the knight triumphant and the crowd erupting in applause, the perfume lingers on my skin, a symphony of scents that captures the essence of the day. The blend of floral and chypre notes creates a timeless, captivating fragrance that mirrors the elegance and strength of the medieval world, a perfect companion for a noblewoman entranced by the valor and romance of the jousting tournament.

 

Bottle:

The flacon of Conquête by Lancôme, introduced in 1935, is an exquisite embodiment of the fragrance's elegance and sophistication. Designed by Georges Delhomme, a luminary in the world of fragrance packaging, the flacon reflects the artistic vision and meticulous craftsmanship that Delhomme is renowned for. This masterpiece was brought to life by Verrières de la Bresle, a glassmaking firm celebrated for their precision and finesse in creating luxury glassware.

Crafted from fine crystal, the flacon exudes an aura of luxury and refinement. Its narrow square shape imparts a sleek and modern aesthetic, making it a standout piece on any vanity or dressing table. The design is further enhanced by the dimpling on the front and back sides, which adds a tactile and visual richness. This textured surface invites the user to engage with the bottle, enhancing the sensory experience of handling the perfume.

The flacon is topped with a ground glass stopper shaped like a ball, ensuring a secure seal that preserves the fragrance's integrity and prevents evaporation. This detail not only serves a practical purpose but also adds a touch of classical elegance to the overall design. The stopper’s smooth, rounded form contrasts beautifully with the textured body of the bottle, creating a harmonious balance.

A small square label made of metallic gold finished embossed paper is affixed to the center of the bottle. This label, adorned with the fragrance name and other decorative elements, adds a touch of opulence and refinement. The golden label catches the light, drawing attention to the prestigious nature of the fragrance within.

To further enhance its prestige and desirability, the deluxe Parfum flacon was presented in an elegant presentation box. This colorful packaging featured branding and decorative embossed embellishments that mirrored the sophistication of the fragrance. The presentation box not only protected the flacon but also elevated the overall experience, making it a luxurious gift or a treasured addition to a personal collection.

The Conquête flacon by Lancôme is a testament to the meticulous artistry and dedication to excellence that characterized the era. Its design elements, from the fine crystal material to the intricate dimpling and opulent labeling, all contribute to its status as a timeless piece of fragrance history.

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, many luxury goods, including perfumes like those from Lancôme, faced import restrictions or were halted altogether due to various reasons, including resource allocation, economic priorities, and trade disruptions caused by the war. The importation of such fragrances to the US was indeed affected during this period, and it wasn't until after the war ended in 1945 that trade resumed and products like Lancôme fragrances could return to US soil. This interruption in importation was a common occurrence for many luxury goods during times of conflict or economic strain.

A 1946 newspaper ad stated that "The first envoy of the French perfume industry arrived in America a short time ago. Mme. Elsi Cramer, a representative for Lancome, had much to say about American women and the subject of perfume. Madame claims that the American woman chooses many scents but never really tries to discover anything about perfume bases, the floral mixtures, or how the perfume is packaged. She is primarily interested in which scent will last the longest. Mme. Cramer declares that no one should ask that of any perfume! Instead, she says, that by carrying a small vial of your favorite perfume and dabbing on a few drops once of twice during the course of the evening, you will find that your perfume will achieve its purpose of being fresh and 'just put on.' 

Tropiques, Fleches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquete, Qui Sait (pronounced key-say, Who Knows?) and Bocages are the newest perfumes in her line. The artistic packaging and the bottles themselves have been perfected after many long years of searching for the right thing.

American women once again may thrill to the wonderful French perfumes. And Mme. Cramer said that the formulas for these very same scents were closely guarded during the German occupation of France. So the return of French perfumes to the American market should mean a little more than just a comment of "oh, some more sweet smelling stuff has just arrived!" Taken into account should be the hard work, the scarcity of materials to work with and the hardships endured during the period when France was subjugated. Your perfume will mean much more to you when you think of those things."

Lancôme's fragrance line "Conquete" was discontinued in 1965. Like many products, perfumes included, Lancôme may discontinue certain scents for various reasons, including changes in consumer preferences, evolving market trends, or the company's strategic decisions regarding its product portfolio. "Conquete" was a notable fragrance in Lancôme's history, known for its floral chypre notes, but as with any product, its discontinuation may have been part of Lancôme's broader business strategy or response to market conditions at the time.