Parfums Raphael

Parfums Raphael was founded in 1930 by Raphaël Lopez at 3 Avenue George V in Paris, a location synonymous with luxury and elegance. From the outset, the brand was committed to quality, ensuring that all products were meticulously bottled, packaged, and sealed at their factory in Colombes, France. This dedication to craftsmanship allowed Parfums Raphael to establish itself as a notable player in the competitive world of perfumery.

By 1960, the factory had begun to expand significantly, adding a new wing to accommodate the growing demand for their fragrances. This expansion reflected the increasing popularity of Parfums Raphael, as their perfumes began to gain recognition on an international scale. The new wing symbolized not only the success of the brand but also the promise of further innovation and creativity in fragrance development.

However, in 1961, tragedy struck when the perfume factory in Colombes caught fire, resulting in a catastrophic loss that devastated the company. Reports indicate that the fire destroyed the entire facility, including invaluable formulae for the fragrances that had been developed over the years. As a consequence, only two fragrances, Replique and Plaisir, were produced after the disaster. Given that the original formulas were lost, it is likely that the revival of these scents required a painstaking process of analysis, examining existing bottles of old stock to create reformulations that closely resembled the originals. Unfortunately, concrete documentation regarding this process remains elusive, leaving a gap in the historical narrative of Parfums Raphael.

Despite the setbacks, the brand's earlier expansion indicated a strong customer base and demand for its products. The challenges faced in the aftermath of the fire could not erase the legacy of Parfums Raphael, which continues to resonate with fragrance enthusiasts who appreciate the rich history of this storied perfumery.

 

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 51, 1960:

"A Press Gathering was held on July 19 to introduce Raphael Perfumes to London. These are being handled by EM Douek & Co Ltd, of 38 George Street, Baker Street, London, W1. The Société Raphael Perfumes have their own factory at Colombes, built in a rectilineal style, bright and spacious, equipped with all modern technique. The Head Office of the Company is in Paris, 43 Avenue Kléver, where in luxurious premises, perfectly adapted, the commercial and administrative departments have been installed."

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 52, 1961:

"Raphael of Paris Raphael of Paris recently presented their famous perfumes for women, Replique - known as 'Le Parfum de Paris' and Plaisir, to women behind the 'Iron Curtain'. The far-sighted President of Raphael, Monsieur Morille, last year showed his beautiful perfumes in a specially designed setting at the Leipzig Fair in East Germany and thereafter became the first luxury perfumer to sell his exquisite fragrances to the women of Moscow. Since last Christmas, 'Le Parfum de Paris' has been a very great success in a country where we here consider so little is known of the pleasure of luxuries. Added to the small, but very fine, Raphael collection is now the 'Eau de Cologne For Men'. Men of past years have used perfumes and pomades, toilet lotions and beautifying aids, but generations of more sedate clothing for men has meant that in the 20th century has a been a decline, at least in Britain, in the use of delightful toilet waters and other preparations for the man in the cosmetic field."

Magazine - Issues 315-322, 1963:

"CREATED BY RAPHAEL - "Replique ”,Plaisir”, "For Men", three big names in perfumes universally. Not twenty years ago, fashion designer Raphael denied being ranked among those of the most famous perfumers in the world. Because, from its beginnings, the Raphael company specialized in very high quality perfumes and toilet waters and wanted not only to serve French customers, but above all to make its brand known well beyond our borders.

The United States, Canada and Mexico were among the first customers. On the other hand, with the exception of course of Paris, the start was slower in France. But today, Raphael perfumes occupy the very favorable place they deserve. The company's exports will have represented 60% of production this year. Its role in foreign trade is therefore very important. Such expansion led the company's managers to set up a new factory in Colombes, as the old workshops no longer met production needs.

The quality of Raphael products explains their worldwide success, which has never been denied: "Replique". This new fragrance owes its overwhelming success firstly to its exceptional qualities, but also to an ingenious idea for the launch, the “replica game”. This fun and exciting game consists of distributing at major galas, or during parties on board cruise ships, for example, a printed matter bearing a single question to which an answer must be found. Forty-eight hours later, there was not a single bottle of this perfume left in US stores.

The lines and colors of the sober and modern bottles and boxes are pleasing to the eye and to the touch. The stopper of the bottles bears the fleur-de-lys. A wax stamp, in different colors depending on the fragrance, completes the presentation.

A second perfume created by Raphael, “Plaisir,” follows in the footsteps of its elder. Today, a whole range of products completes the productions of the company: toilet waters, soaps, atomizers, bath oils."

Parfums Raphael is best known for its standout fragrances, Replique and Plaisir, which captivated the perfume market with their distinct scents and luxurious formulations. The company was dedicated to creating a comprehensive range of fragrance products, producing not only various sizes of perfumes and atomizers but also coordinating items such as toilet water, soaps, bath oils, and powders. This attention to detail ensured that customers could indulge in a complete sensory experience, enhancing their personal fragrance ritual with complementary products.

Among the offerings was a distinctive eau de cologne designed specifically for men, further diversifying the brand's portfolio. The elegant Raphael logo, created by the designer Marty, became synonymous with quality and sophistication, embodying the brand’s ethos and aesthetic. In 1952, the perfumes gained traction in the United States, distributed by Charles J. Oppenheim Jr., chairman of Jay Thorpe Inc., who also led Parfums Marcy. This partnership allowed Parfums Raphael to expand its reach and establish a foothold in the American market.

The trajectory of Parfums Raphael took a significant turn in 1966 when Revlon extended its product line by acquiring Parfums Marcy, which included the rights to distribute Raphael products in the U.S. The deal was valued at 26,136 shares of common stock, while the foreign rights to Raphael's fragrances were purchased outright with cash. Under the Parfums Marcy umbrella, Replique and Plaisir continued to thrive, reaching new audiences and solidifying their places in the fragrance landscape.

A piece from Printer's Ink in 1966 highlighted the success of the Replique line, noting that it encompassed an array of products, including perfume, toilet water, bath oil, soap, and dusting powder, all crafted by Raphael of France. This exclusivity, coupled with the elegant branding and high-quality formulations, ensured that Parfums Marcy played a crucial role in bringing the essence of French perfumery to American consumers. Through this strategic distribution, the legacy of Parfums Raphael was preserved, allowing its fragrances to continue enchanting new generations of fragrance enthusiasts.

The Perfumes of Raphael:

• 1936 Replique (Replica)
• 1944 Cynique (Cynical)
• 1944 Feu De Paille (Flash in the Pan)
• 1946 Volontiers (Willingly)
• 1946 Tubéreuse (Tuberose)
• 1946 Raph
• 1952 Raphaël for Men
• 1953 Démon (Demon)
• 1956 Plaisir (Pleasure)
• 1957 Whisky
• R
• Raphaël

For collectors looking to delve into the world of Parfums Raphael, it's essential to understand the landscape of the brand's offerings and the rarity of certain fragrances. Among the most commonly encountered perfumes is Replique, a fragrance that has achieved widespread recognition and availability, followed closely by Plaisir, which also holds a prominent place in the collection. These two perfumes are often the starting point for collectors, serving as the foundation of the Raphael fragrance lineup.

However, the quest for rarer scents can be both exhilarating and challenging. The most elusive perfumes from Parfums Raphael include Cynique, Demon, Raph, Feu de Paille, Tubéreuse, and Volontiers. Each of these fragrances possesses a unique character, making them highly sought after by enthusiasts. In my extensive experience as a collector, I have encountered only a single bottle each of Cynique, Raph, Demon, and Tubéreuse, and notably, all were contained in the same distinctive bottle design used for Replique and Plaisir. This commonality in packaging adds an intriguing layer to the collection, as it creates a visual continuity among the different fragrances.

Despite the thrill of uncovering such rare finds, my search has yet to yield any bottles of Feu de Paille or Volontiers. Their absence from the market has elevated their status to that of true collector's items, compelling enthusiasts to seek them out in auctions or private collections, often leading to higher prices due to their scarcity. Each bottle tells a story, and for collectors passionate about the artistry of perfumery, the allure of Parfums Raphael's lesser-known fragrances is hard to resist. Whether starting with the more common Replique and Plaisir or embarking on a hunt for the rarest treasures, the world of Raphael perfumes offers a captivating journey into the history and craftsmanship of French perfumery.

Femme, 1946:

"New, very new, the five perfumes of Raphael. Born together: “Cynique”, “Feu de Paille”, “Raph”, “Replique”, “Tubereuse”. We confess our personal preference for "Raph", exquisite sports fragrance, clean and exhilarating; but most women currently prefer "Replique", warm and languorous, with subtle and tenacious graces. You will judge for yourself. “Tubereuse” is a perfume for the evening, especially for summer evenings."

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"One of the handsomest bottles on the market is that containing Raphael's 'Demon,' which is only sold in its de luxe presentation, a magnificent crystal bottle. The two Raphael perfumes, 'Demon' and 'Replique' are very different: the former is a fruity scent, the latter, with a base of Bulgarian roses, is especially good for furs."

Plaisir by Raphael:

Plaisir by Raphael was launched in 1956. Created by Pierre Blaizot. Plaisir was advertised as a "younger" fragrance than its sister, Replique. The parfum sold for $22.50 an ounce in 1959. . Plaisir is long discontinued and was still being sold in 1971. 

Plaisir is classified as an oriental fragrance for women with roses and jasmine as its main base, then essences from precious woods have been added. It begins with a fresh, green aldehydic top followed by a rich spicy floral heart of roses, daffodil, wisteria, and jasmine, resting on a woody base of musk, amber, tobacco, Russian leather, moss, sandalwood and vanilla.

• Top notes: wisteria, green notes, Italian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cardamom, neroli, coriander, clary sage, aldehydes
• Middle notes: daffodil, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, heliotrope
• Base notes: Russian leather, tobacco, tonka bean, sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, musk, oakmoss, spices

Replique and Plaisir, two hallmark fragrances by Parfums Raphael, were designed to offer a comprehensive olfactory experience through a diverse product line. Both scents were made available in several forms, including parfum, eau de toilette (toilet water), bath oil, talc, soap, and dusting powder. This extensive range allowed customers to incorporate the fragrances into various aspects of their daily routines, enhancing the sensory experience of scent in both personal care and leisure. Each product was thoughtfully crafted to embody the signature notes of Replique and Plaisir, providing a consistent and pleasurable olfactory journey no matter the format.

The availability of Replique, Plaisir, and Demon in four distinct sizes—purse mini, 1/2 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz—further exemplified Parfums Raphael’s understanding of consumer needs. The purse mini was especially popular for those who desired a touch of fragrance on the go, while the larger sizes catered to customers who preferred to indulge in their favorite scents more liberally. This versatility not only encouraged frequent use but also made the fragrances accessible for various occasions, from everyday wear to special events.

By offering a full suite of products in multiple sizes, Parfums Raphael effectively captured a broad audience, appealing to both practical consumers seeking daily essentials and fragrance aficionados eager to experience the complexity of their offerings. This strategy not only reinforced the brands’ identities but also solidified their place in the competitive fragrance market of the mid-20th century, where personal expression through scent was increasingly celebrated.

Demon:

Demon was an exclusive offering by Parfums Raphael, captivating patrons of the renowned Lido cabaret in Paris. This citrusy fragrance, with its alluring blend of fresh notes, is characterized by a heart of exquisite roses and jasmine. The juxtaposition of zesty citrus and lush florals creates a vibrant scent profile that embodies the glamour and vivacity of the mid-20th century. The name "Demon" conjures images of mischief and allure, drawing in those seeking a unique sensory experience that defies the conventional.

Despite its once-celebrated status, Demon has become quite rare in the world of fragrance collecting. For avid enthusiasts, it can occasionally be discovered within a coveted three-piece coffret from the 1950s, beautifully packaged alongside bottles of Replique and Plaisir. Such sets not only showcase the harmonious relationship between these fragrances but also serve as a nostalgic reminder of the era's opulent presentation styles. Each coffret is a time capsule, embodying the elegance of a bygone age and the allure of Parisian nightlife.

By 1958, Demon was still being sold, affirming its place in the market at the time. However, as trends shifted and the perfume landscape evolved, it eventually faded from public consciousness, contributing to its rarity today. Collectors and fragrance connoisseurs treasure this elusive scent, not just for its aromatic qualities but also for its historical significance and the enchanting story it tells of an enchanting era in perfumery and entertainment.

Raphael For Men:

Raphael For Men, launched in 1952, is a distinguished classic that embodies the essence of mid-century masculinity through its refined and invigorating profile. This cologne, celebrated for its fresh citrus notes, immediately captivates with a bright burst of bergamot and zesty lemon, evoking a sense of clarity and vitality. The citrus is elegantly balanced by the herbal freshness of lavender, which lends an air of sophistication, reminiscent of a sunlit garden brimming with aromatic blooms.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a deeper complexity with the inclusion of leather, a note that brings warmth and a rugged charm to the blend. This leather accord interplays beautifully with the citrus and lavender, creating a refined character that appeals to the modern man of the era. Complementing this medley is the earthy presence of vetiver, which grounds the composition and adds a touch of depth, making Raphael For Men a versatile choice for various occasions, whether it's a casual day out or a formal evening event.

In its heyday, Raphael For Men was offered in several formats, including cologne, aftershave, and soap, catering to the grooming rituals of the discerning gentleman. Each product allowed men to embrace the refreshing scent in multiple ways, enhancing their daily routines with the invigorating aroma. Despite its classic appeal, Raphael For Men has become increasingly rare to find today, making it a prized addition to any fragrance collection. Its scarcity only adds to its allure, representing not just a scent but a nostalgic journey back to a time when classic masculinity was defined by elegance and charm.

Replique:

Réplique, pronounced "RAY-PLEEK," is a signature fragrance that debuted in France in 1936, quickly capturing the hearts of perfume aficionados. With its intricate formula, Réplique was designed to evoke a sense of sophistication and allure. At the heart of this fragrance lies a harmonious blend of Bulgarian roses, known for their rich, velvety aroma, and jasmine, which adds a sweet, intoxicating quality. These floral notes create a lush bouquet that serves as the essence of femininity, making Réplique a timeless choice for women seeking elegance in a bottle.

Alongside these prominent floral notes, the inclusion of incense enhances the composition, imparting a warm, resinous depth that resonates with mystery and sensuality. This complex layering of ingredients offers a multi-faceted olfactory experience, allowing wearers to discover new nuances as the fragrance develops on the skin. The combination of rose and jasmine with incense creates an enveloping aura that speaks to the romantic and sophisticated sensibilities of the 1930s, perfectly encapsulating the glamour of that era.

In 1946, Réplique made its way to the United States, further solidifying its status as a beloved fragrance. It continued to evolve, and in 1966, Revlon reintroduced Réplique with a new reformulation while retaining the Raphael name. This revival allowed the fragrance to reach a new audience, introducing it to the modern market while preserving its classic charm. The enduring appeal of Réplique lies not only in its exquisite scent but also in its rich history, marking it as a notable creation that reflects the elegance and sophistication of its time. Today, it remains a cherished piece of perfume heritage, sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Mademoiselle, 1976:

"Replique by Raphael — as all its devotees know — is flowery, sparkly, vivacious— and even more so now that Revlon has reformulated it.. . given it a sort of fragrance- lift, you might say . and brought it out in batch of new formats. Including a rich, perfumed body cream."

House Beautiful, 1977:

"Revlon - Replique burns from a red candle in a large heart-shaped white porcelain box with bold red and blue flowers ($12) or from a pair of smaller heart boxes in the same design ($9.50 the pair). These make marvelous trinket boxes."

If your box is sealed and you don't know what the bottle looks like or what size the bottle is, here is a quick guide to the reference numbers on the packaging:

• Ref. 601 - 1 oz Parfum Replique
• Ref.  600 - 1/2 oz Parfum Replique
• Ref. TPM - 1/4 oz Parfum Replique
• Ref. TPM - 1/4 oz Parfum Replique
• Ref. 1002 - 3/4 oz Parfum Set of 3 (Satin lined case)