Pavots D'Argent by Roger et Gallet c1926

The perfume "Pavots d'Argent" by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1926, a period characterized by significant social and cultural transformations. The Roaring Twenties was an era marked by economic prosperity, the flourishing of the arts, and a shift in societal norms, particularly concerning women's roles and freedoms. This was a time when women were increasingly embracing new fashions, working outside the home, and asserting their independence.

In this context, gardening, including the cultivation of flowers such as poppies, became a popular pastime for many women. The opium poppy, known for its vibrant and delicate flowers, was particularly admired for its beauty and symbolism. Although the growing of opium poppies at home was not widespread due to their association with opium production, ornamental varieties of poppies were common in home gardens, appreciated for their aesthetic appeal rather than their narcotic properties.

"Pavots d'Argent" translates to "Silver Poppies" in English. Roger et Gallet likely chose this name for its evocative imagery and luxurious connotations. The term "pavots" (poppies) evokes a sense of natural beauty and delicate elegance, while "d'argent" (of silver) adds an element of opulence and sophistication. Together, the name suggests a blend of nature's beauty with a touch of preciousness, making it a fitting choice for a high-end perfume.

The name "Pavots d'Argent" would have resonated with women of the 1920s as it combined the allure of nature with a sense of glamour and refinement. This period saw women embracing new freedoms and expressing their individuality through fashion and beauty products. A perfume named "Pavots d'Argent" would appeal to their desire for elegance and modernity.

Women of the time likely responded positively to the perfume, associating it with the sophisticated and liberated lifestyle they aspired to. The imagery of "silver poppies" would evoke feelings of luxury, allure, and a connection to the contemporary trends of the era. The name would suggest a perfume that is both enchanting and distinguished, aligning with the aspirations of women seeking to express their newfound independence and style.

The word "Pavots d'Argent" conjures images of shimmering, ethereal flowers bathed in moonlight, symbolizing a blend of natural beauty and otherworldly elegance. It evokes emotions of grace, mystery, and a touch of exoticism, making it a unique and memorable name for a perfume. The interpretation of "Pavots d'Argent" as "Silver Poppies" suggests a delicate balance between fragility and strength, natural beauty, and luxurious refinement.

In summary, "Pavots d'Argent" by Roger et Gallet was perfectly suited to the spirit of the 1920s, offering women a fragrance that embodied both the elegance of nature and the sophistication of silver, aligning with the era's trends and the aspirations of modern women.

A Silver Poppy?

"Black poppy, white poppy, rooster poppy, Oriental poppy, Welsh poppy, doubtful poppy..., botanists, people of imagination, never stop giving first names to poppies. But black or white, dubious or rooster, it's up to who draws more on the red. Why would perfumers, no less imaginative than botanists, not launch the silver poppy in their turn, and why would this silver poppy be less carmine than its congeners? Only one attribute is forbidden to it, that of the so-called soporific poppy: we want to keep all our minds in order to breathe it at ease." - Georges Bourdon.

Georges Bourdon's evocative passage captures the timeless fascination with poppies and their myriad varieties, emphasizing their rich symbolism and the creative names bestowed upon them by botanists and imaginative minds alike. Poppies come in diverse forms and colors—black, white, rooster, Oriental, Welsh, and even doubtful—each name reflecting its unique allure. Despite this diversity, the red poppy remains a central reference point, symbolizing vibrant beauty and emotional depth.

Bourdon draws a parallel between botanists and perfumers, suggesting that perfumers, with their own brand of creativity, have every right to introduce a new variant: the silver poppy. The silver poppy, or "Pavots d'Argent," is imagined to be just as captivating as its colorful counterparts. The suggestion that this silver variant can be "less carmine" highlights its distinctiveness while maintaining its inherent beauty.

The only restriction Bourdon places on the silver poppy is the attribute of the soporific poppy, known for its sedative properties. This stipulation underscores the desire for the fragrance to be invigorating and mentally stimulating, rather than dulling the senses. Thus, the silver poppy symbolizes a fragrance that captivates without overwhelming, allowing those who wear it to remain fully present and appreciative of its delicate charm. Bourdon's words paint "Pavots d'Argent" as a perfume that combines the imaginative flair of both botany and perfumery, offering a unique and enchanting olfactory experience.

Advertisement for "Pavots d'Argent" perfume, the "latest creation of Roger et Gallet... [which] by its distinctive character and charm, has won acceptance by fashionable society as the perfume 'a la mode'". Ad features color illustration of gold perfume bottle decorated as a single flower; above bottle is a silver, pink, and purple poppy, the decoration for powder boxes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, lavender, geranium, amyl salicylate
• Middle notes: thyme, jasmine, poppy flower, Bulgarian rose, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, ambergris, sandalwood, labdanum, tonka bean, musk, oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

As I step into the field of flowers, the morning sun begins to warm the earth, casting a golden glow over the landscape. The air is crisp, filled with a symphony of chirping birds and the gentle rustling of leaves. As I take a deep breath, I am greeted by the invigorating scent of bergamot, mingling with the sharp, clean aroma of aldehydes. The bergamot offers a refreshing citrus burst, while the aldehydes add a sparkling, almost metallic freshness that lifts the senses. Among the floral tapestry, lavender emerges with its soothing, herbal undertones, accompanied by the subtle, spicy sweetness of geranium. Amyl salicylate adds a hint of green and balsamic sweetness, completing the top notes with a delicate balance.

Venturing deeper into the field, I come across a cluster of thyme, its robust and earthy aroma blending seamlessly with the air, evoking memories of Mediterranean gardens. The fragrance of jasmine is intoxicating, its sweet and exotic floral scent enveloping me in a gentle embrace. Nearby, the elusive poppy flowers, particularly the rare silver poppies, reveal themselves. Their scent is delicate and powdery, adding a touch of mystery to the heart of the fragrance. Bulgarian rose, with its rich and velvety petals, imparts a deep, romantic note, harmonizing with the other florals to create a lush, fragrant bouquet.

Amidst this lush field, I discover the subtle and elusive scent of orris root. The orris adds a refined and elegant powdery note, reminiscent of violet, but with a more earthy and woody undertone. It blends seamlessly with the other florals, enhancing their natural beauty and adding a layer of sophistication to the fragrance.

As I wander further, the base notes begin to reveal themselves. The ground beneath my feet is rich with the earthy aroma of patchouli, its dark and woody scent grounding me. Vetiver adds a smoky, grassy element, reminiscent of a walk through a forest after the rain. Ambergris brings a salty, marine hint, while sandalwood's creamy, woody fragrance adds warmth and depth. Labdanum contributes a resinous, slightly leathery note, mingling with the sweet, nutty aroma of tonka bean. The presence of musk is soft and animalistic, adding a sensual undertone. Oakmoss lends a touch of forest floor dampness, completing the chypre base with its characteristic earthy and mossy scent.

As I stand amidst this fragrant field, I am enveloped in a symphony of scents that paint a vivid picture of nature's beauty. The sight of the rare silver poppies, hidden away like precious gems, adds a sense of wonder and rarity to the experience. The touch of petals and leaves under my fingers is a reminder of the delicate balance of this natural harmony. The taste of the air, infused with the myriad scents, is fresh and invigorating. The overall fragrance is a floral chypre, weaving together top notes of bright citrus and aldehydes, a heart of lush florals, and a base of earthy, woody, and resinous elements, creating an unforgettable and enchanting olfactory journey.

Product Line:

The packaging for the Pavots d'Argent product line featured two stylized poppy flowers in harmonizing colors of mauve, purple, black and silver. All products were either covered in paper with these motifs or had decorative paper labels in the corresponding colors and a poppy motif.

The "Pavots d'Argent" product line by Roger et Gallet offered a comprehensive range of luxurious items, catering to various aspects of a woman's beauty and personal care routine. The parfum, as the centerpiece, provided a signature scent encapsulating the elegance and allure of silver poppies. Complementing the perfume, the eau de toilette offered a lighter, more versatile version of the fragrance, suitable for everyday use. 

The sachet provided a subtler way to infuse personal belongings and spaces with the delicate fragrance, while the soap offered a fragrant and luxurious cleansing experience. The soap provided a fragrant and luxurious cleansing experience, while the face cream combined the delightful scent with skincare benefits. Bath salts allowed for a relaxing and aromatic bathing experience, adding a touch of opulence to daily rituals. The talcum powder offered in both a colorful tin shaker and a frosted glass bottle provided a silky finish with a light, pleasant fragrance. 

The face cream combined the delightful scent with skincare benefits. The face powder and compact face powder in its brass compact delivered a refined look, ensuring a polished appearance with the added convenience of a portable option. Lipstick rounded out the collection, providing a touch of color infused with the essence of "Pavots d'Argent," enabling women to carry the sophistication and elegance of the line in every aspect of their beauty regimen. 

Additionally, the brilliantine offered a way to add shine and a subtle fragrance to the hair, ensuring that every element of a woman's appearance could be enhanced by the luxurious and cohesive "Pavots d'Argent" line.

Bottles:

Pavots d'Argent was presented a several different bottles over the years. The most spectacular was the deluxe crystal poppy bottle by Rene Lalique. 

Pavot d'Argent Poppy Flacons:

"Pavots d'Argent" was presented in various exquisite bottles over the years, each reflecting the brand's commitment to elegance and luxury. Among these, the most spectacular was the deluxe crystal poppy bottle designed by the renowned French glassmaker René Lalique. This bottle was a masterpiece of Art Deco design, showcasing Lalique's unparalleled skill in creating intricate and delicate glass art.

The deluxe demi-crystal poppy bottle was crafted using blown-molded white glass, a technique that allowed for fine detail and a smooth finish. The base of the bottle was square, providing a solid foundation, while the body featured a cut-out design representing two blooming poppy flowers superimposed. This intricate design not only highlighted the beauty of the poppies but also demonstrated the precision and artistry involved in its creation. The superimposed flowers created a tactile sense of depth and movement, making the bottle a dynamic piece of art.

The bottle was available in two sizes, standing at 3.34 inches tall and 4.34 inches tall.  Each bottle was fitted with a ground glass stopper, molded in the shape of an open flower, which harmonized perfectly with the floral theme of the bottle. This stopper was not merely functional but also added to the overall aesthetic, enhancing the bottle's elegance and charm. The base of the bottle bore the signature "R. Lalique," a mark of authenticity and a testament to the high-quality craftsmanship that Lalique was famous for.

These bottles were compact yet striking pieces that captured the essence of luxury and refinement. They were collector's items, coveted for their beauty and the prestige associated with the Lalique name. The reference to F. Marcilhac on page 948 further validated their historical significance and design details, situating them within the broader context of Lalique's work.

The "Pavots d'Argent" perfume bottle, with its blend of delicate floral motifs and expert craftsmanship, embodied the elegance and artistic innovation of the late 1920s. It was more than just a container for fragrance; it was a work of art that reflected the sophisticated tastes of the era and the enduring appeal of Lalique's glass creations. This deluxe bottle not only held the enchanting fragrance of "Pavots d'Argent" but also served as a timeless piece of decorative art, cherished by collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike.

Photo from Drouot

Non-Poppy Molded Flacon:

Rene Lalique also produced a smaller 2.5-inch tall bottle for "Pavots d'Argent," distinct from the deluxe crystal poppy design. This variant featured flat and plain sides without the molded poppy decor, known specifically as the Rene Lalique Model: Roger-&-Gallet-Perfume-17, circa 1929. This simpler style contrasted with Lalique's more elaborate designs, yet retained a sense of elegance through its refined simplicity.

Later, a modified version of this plainer style was adapted for the Eau de Toilette flacon, available in a larger size standing 4.5 inches tall. This larger bottle, however, was not crafted by Rene Lalique, marking a departure from the original Lalique aesthetic. Despite lacking Lalique's signature craftsmanship, this larger flacon maintained a sense of sophistication suitable for the lighter formulation of the fragrance, ensuring continuity in the "Pavots d'Argent" product line's appeal and diversity.

Crackle Glass Flacons:

The "Pavots d'Argent" line also utilized crackle glass flacons originally designed for the Roger et Gallet perfume, Le Jade. These bottles are crafted in a narrow, oblong shape and feature intentional crackling throughout the glass, creating a visually striking presentation. The crackling effect adds texture and depth to the bottles, enhancing their aesthetic appeal and making each one unique.

Each bottle is completed with a ground glass stopper that also incorporates intentional crackling, maintaining a cohesive and harmonious design. The crackle glass flacons were available in two sizes: 0.5 oz and 1.25 oz. The smaller bottle stands at 2.75 inches tall, while the taller version measures 3.75 inches in height, offering choices for different preferences and needs.

Despite their exquisite craftsmanship and artistic appearance, it's important to clarify that these bottles were not created by Rene Lalique, contrary to what some may assume. Instead, they represent a distinct style within the Roger et Gallet collection, showcasing the brand's dedication to both beauty and quality in perfume packaging. These crackle glass flacons exemplify a timeless elegance that appeals to collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike, offering a captivating vessel for experiencing the allure of "Pavots d'Argent."

Button Stopper Flacon:

"Pavots d'Argent" was also showcased in a small, clear glass bottle distinguished by a button-shaped frosted glass stopper molded with a melon ribbed design. This bottle stands at 2.25 inches tall and features a narrow, upright rectangular shape, embodying a sleek and understated elegance. Adorned with a paper label depicting a poppy design in hues of mauve, black, and silver, it exudes a sense of refined artistry.

This particular design was notably featured in a 1941 advertisement, emphasizing its enduring appeal and association with the "Pavots d'Argent" fragrance line. The bottle accommodates 1/3 oz of parfum and was also utilized for the Roger et Gallet perfume, Le Jade, reflecting its versatility within the brand's offerings.

Despite its sophisticated appearance and quality craftsmanship, it's important to clarify that this bottle was not crafted by Rene Lalique, a common misconception among collectors. Rather, it represents a distinct style and design ethos within the Roger et Gallet collection, exemplifying the brand's commitment to both aesthetic appeal and functionality in perfume packaging. This small glass bottle remains a cherished piece among collectors, embodying the timeless allure and elegance of "Pavots d'Argent" in a compact and refined form.

Square Column Flacon:

This distinctive bottle, characterized by its square columnar shape, features a rectangular ground glass stopper that adds to its elegant presentation. The front of the bottle is adorned with a frosted frieze of circular motifs, enhancing its visual appeal with a delicate and sophisticated touch. Originally employed for various Roger et Gallet fragrances, this particular design reflects the brand's attention to detail and aesthetic refinement.

Standing at just 2 inches tall, this bottle holds 0.5 oz of parfum, making it a compact yet stylish choice for housing fragrance. It was prominently used throughout the 1930s, showcasing its enduring popularity and enduring design appeal within the perfume industry.

Despite its exquisite craftsmanship and intricate detailing, it's important to clarify that this bottle was not created by Rene Lalique, a misconception that persists among some collectors. Instead, it stands as a testament to Roger et Gallet's commitment to producing bottles that combine functionality with artistic flair. This small glass bottle remains a coveted piece among perfume enthusiasts, embodying the timeless elegance and sophistication of its era in a diminutive yet impactful form.

Scalloped Edge Bottle:

This petite parfum bottle, often part of gift sets that included face powder, a compact, lipstick, and soap, epitomizes practical elegance. Crafted from clear glass, it features a unique scalloped pattern along the edge, adding a touch of refinement to its design. The bottle is complemented by a small brass screw cap, making it convenient for carrying in a handbag or suitcase, ideal for travel or daily use.

Used for various Roger et Gallet perfumes such as Feu Follet starting from approximately 1932, this bottle exemplifies versatility in its application across different fragrances within the brand's repertoire. While the manufacturer of these bottles remains unspecified, it is known that they were not produced by Lalique, despite their quality and appeal.

This parfum bottle not only embodies functionality but also exudes a timeless charm that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts alike. Its clear glass construction and scalloped detailing reflect a commitment to craftsmanship and aesthetic sophistication, enhancing the overall experience of using and displaying Roger et Gallet perfumes.

Later Bottles (Non-Lalique):

In the 1940s-1950s, three distinct bottles not crafted by Lalique were produced to house Pavots d'Argent by Roger et Gallet. The first bottle stands at 2 3/8 inches tall and features a practical white plastic screw cap. Designed to hold 1/3 oz of parfum, it is adorned with a straightforward gold paper label bearing the inscription "Pavots d'Argent - Roger et Gallet - New York - Paris." This bottle, indicative of its era, reflects simplicity and functionality while maintaining a touch of elegance with its minimalist design. Another bottle has a tulip-like flared shape with a gold paper label and white plastic screw cap.

A larger vessel was specifically tailored for Pavots d'Argent Eau de Toilette splash, distinguished by its tall, navette-shaped silhouette. Embellished with a scroll motif on the shoulders, this bottle boasted a generous capacity of 120ml and an alcohol volume of 78%. Its base is molded with the inscription "Roger et Gallet - Paris," affirming its origin and quality. The front of the bottle features an off-white and gold paper label adorned with a charming flower pot motif, alongside the name "Pavots d'Argent - Roger et Gallet - Paris." Dating back to the 1940s, this bottle epitomizes the era's penchant for stylish presentation combined with practicality, encapsulating the refreshing essence of Pavots d'Argent in a form that blends aesthetic appeal with functional utility.

Bath & Body Products:

The "Aftabath" body powder box, crafted from tin in an elegant oval shape, features a distinctive design covered in black, silver, and mauve paper adorned with stylized poppy flower motifs. This design harmonizes with those found on the face powder and parfum, creating a cohesive visual identity across the product line. The tin box measures just under 4.75 inches in length, 2.75 inches in height, and just under 4 inches in width, accommodating a generous 8 ounces of bath powder for luxurious use.

The matching talcum powder was housed inside of tin decorated with the poppy motifs.

The face powder box, constructed from sturdy cardstock, echoes the aesthetic of its counterparts in the collection. It stands at 1.25 inches tall, with dimensions of 3.75 inches in length and 3 inches in width, providing a compact and elegant storage solution for the face powder, complete with matching decorative elements.

For the sachet powder, Roger et Gallet opted for a clear glass bottle that had been used for other sachets in their line. This bottle, standing at 2 7/8 inches tall, features a cork stopper and is adorned with a charming paper label in mauve, black, and silver on the front. The label enhances the bottle's presentation, reflecting the refined style and attention to detail characteristic of Roger et Gallet's sachet products.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Pavots d'Argent," the beloved fragrance by Roger et Gallet, met its end sometime in the 1950s when it was discontinued. This decision marked the conclusion of an era for the perfume, which had captivated wearers with its distinctive blend and elegant presentation. While specific reasons for its discontinuation may vary, it is not uncommon for fragrances to be retired due to changes in consumer preferences, shifts in market trends, or strategic decisions by the brand. Despite its discontinuation, Pavots d'Argent remains fondly remembered by enthusiasts and collectors alike for its unique scent and the timeless allure it once embodied.

2005 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2005, "Pavot d'Argent" underwent a rejuvenation orchestrated by Alberto Morillas of Firmenich, who reinterpreted the classic fragrance with modern ingredients. This revitalized version was introduced to the market, featuring an updated formulation and presented under the new name "Pavot D'Argent." The fragrance was designed to appeal to contemporary sensibilities while retaining the essence of its predecessor's floral oriental (amber) character, which had originally captivated wearers.

The re-launched "Pavot D'Argent" was available in several luxurious forms, catering to different aspects of a woman's daily routine. It was offered in a 100ml eau de toilette, providing a concentrated and lasting scent experience. Additionally, the line included a 200ml Perfumed Body Lotion, offering a fragrant and moisturizing option for daily skincare. For bathing rituals, a 200ml scented Bath & Shower Gel provided a luxurious lather infused with the distinctive fragrance, ensuring a complete sensory experience.

Despite its reintroduction and initial availability in the market, "Pavot D'Argent" faced challenges and, unfortunately, was believed to have been discontinued in 2008. The decision to discontinue may have been influenced by various factors, including market dynamics and evolving consumer preferences. Nevertheless, the fragrance's reorchestration by Alberto Morillas provided a memorable chapter in its history, offering a modern interpretation of a beloved scent that had once defined elegance and allure for women.

It is classified as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, yuzu
• Middle notes: jasmine, poppy flower, Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, amber

"Pavot D'Argent" is categorized as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance designed specifically for women, blending classic and contemporary elements to create a captivating olfactory experience. The fragrance composition unfolds in layers that evoke sophistication and allure.

At the top, "Pavot D'Argent" opens with a refreshing burst of bergamot and yuzu. These citrusy notes impart a bright and lively introduction, setting the stage for the more complex and alluring layers to follow.

In the heart of the fragrance, a rich floral bouquet emerges, featuring jasmine, poppy flower, and Bulgarian rose. Jasmine adds a hint of floral sweetness, while poppy flower brings a unique, slightly powdery note. Bulgarian rose contributes its characteristic romantic and velvety scent, enhancing the overall femininity of the fragrance.

The base notes of "Pavot D'Argent" anchor the composition with depth and warmth. Patchouli provides an earthy and slightly spicy aroma, complemented by vetiver, which adds a woody and smoky nuance. Amber rounds out the base notes with its rich, resinous sweetness, leaving a lingering and memorable trail.

Together, these carefully selected ingredients form a harmonious blend that defines "Pavot D'Argent" as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance. It balances freshness with sensuality, making it suitable for various occasions where a touch of elegance and sophistication is desired.

Photos from ebay, worthpoint, Christie's, Kingham's Auctioneers, and drouot