Isadora by Isadora c1979

Isadora by Parfums Isadora, launched in 1979, is a classic fragrance known for its floral and oriental notes. It's one of those timeless scents that have stood the test of time, captivating wearers with its sophisticated and alluring aroma.

Isadora Perfume by Parfums Isadora (Robert Benson):

In 1979, Robert Benson unveiled Isadora perfume under the esteemed banner of Parfums Isadora Paris. Inspired by the timeless elegance and artistic legacy of the renowned dancer Isadora Duncan, who tragically passed away in 1927, Benson sought to pay homage to her enduring spirit through the creation of this fragrance. With meticulous care and reverence, Isadora perfume was crafted to encapsulate the essence of Isadora Duncan's grace, capturing her unparalleled charm and sophistication in every delicate note.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. The scent smells of lavender, citrus and florals with a hint of musk and mousse de chene.

• Top notes: Italian bergamot, Persian mint, Reunion Island geranium, orange blossom, French petitgrain
• Middle notes: French jasmine, Bulgarian rose, iris, French lavender, spices
• Base notes: South American tonka bean, Singapore patchouli, Reunion Island vetiver, Middle Eastern olibanum, Yugoslavian oakmoss, musk, Indian sandalwood, amber, leather, African opoponax, Arabian opoponax, and vanilla

As you embark on a olfactory journey through Isadora perfume, each ingredient unveils itself with exquisite detail, inviting you to savor every nuance:

The experience begins with a burst of freshness as Italian bergamot dances on your skin, its zesty aroma mingling with the invigorating essence of Persian mint. Soon, the delicate floral notes emerge, led by the enchanting Reunion Island geranium and the sweet allure of orange blossom, while hints of French petitgrain add a subtle green undertone.

As you delve deeper, the heart of Isadora reveals its opulent core. French jasmine enchants with its heady floral aroma, intertwining with the intoxicating Bulgarian rose, their velvety petals unfolding with each breath. Iris lends a powdery elegance, while French lavender infuses a touch of herbal sophistication, and a medley of spices adds a tantalizing warmth.

Finally, as the fragrance settles, the base notes envelop you in a sensual embrace. South American tonka bean exudes a creamy sweetness, complemented by the earthy depth of Singapore patchouli and the smoky richness of Reunion Island vetiver. Middle Eastern olibanum lends a mystical allure, while Yugoslavian oakmoss and musk provide a velvety texture. Indian sandalwood adds a luxurious woodiness, amber and leather evoke a sense of warmth and sensuality, and African and Arabian opoponax impart a resinous sweetness. The journey concludes with the lingering sweetness of vanilla, leaving a lasting impression that captivates the senses.

With each inhalation, Isadora perfume reveals new layers of complexity, inviting you to explore its intricacies and discover the timeless elegance within.

Bottle:

The story behind the design of Isadora perfume's bottle adds another layer of intrigue to its rich history. In 1976, Robert Benson drew inspiration from the elegant Art Deco kneeling nude stopper designs that had graced perfume bottles in the past. Teaming up with celebrated Parisian jeweler Danielle Poullian and renowned designer Pierre Dinand, they embarked on a mission to reimagine this classic motif in a modern and updated style.

Dinand's meticulous efforts led him to track down the original mold, ensuring authenticity and homage to the past. The result was a stunning transformation: the seated female figure remained as the stopper, but now adorned a sleek flat disk bottle, departing from the previous cushion bottle design. The addition of the Isadora name serigraphed in gold on the front of the bottle added a touch of sophistication.

Crafted by the esteemed Pochet et du Courval, with plastic components supplied by AMS, the flacon was a testament to craftsmanship and attention to detail. Housed in a sleek black presentation box, it exuded luxury and elegance.

A rare version of Isadora perfume emerged in 1990, produced in the Czech Republic. Despite its rarity, the perfume continues to be crafted to this day, with a variety of sizes available online. This enduring presence speaks to the timeless allure and enduring legacy of Isadora perfume, captivating perfume enthusiasts across generations.

The collaboration between Danielle Poullian and the Isadora perfume launch extended beyond the design of the bottle itself, adding another layer of elegance and allure to the fragrance experience. Poullian's creative touch manifested in the creation of vibrant and eye-catching galalith necklaces, offered as part of the Isadora gift with purchase or purchase with a purchase promotion at Bloomingdale's during the perfume's launch.

These necklaces, reminiscent of runway fashion accessories, were adorned with colorful galalith beads in whimsical shapes, such as stylized flowers or bold geometrics. Intriguing bead spacers added visual interest, while small inro-type containers held delicate glass perfume vials, allowing wearers to carry a hint of Isadora's enchanting scent with them wherever they went.

The incorporation of Poullian's designs into the Isadora launch not only elevated the presentation of the fragrance but also added a touch of sophistication and luxury to the overall experience. These statement necklaces not only complemented the fragrance but also served as wearable works of art, embodying the spirit of Isadora's timeless elegance and style.

Isadora perfume offered a range of options to suit every preference and occasion, ensuring that fragrance enthusiasts could indulge in its captivating aroma in various forms:

• 1/4 oz parfum splash: A petite and elegant option for those who prefer a subtle application, perfect for dabbing on pulse points for a delicate hint of scent.

• 1/4 oz parfum spray: Combining convenience with luxury, this option allowed for a fine mist application, ensuring even coverage and a lasting fragrance experience.

• 1/2 oz parfum splash: A slightly larger size for those who desired a bit more of their favorite scent, ideal for everyday wear or special occasions.

• 1 oz parfum splash: Offering a generous amount of fragrance, this size allowed for indulgence without compromise, ensuring that Isadora's enchanting aroma could accompany wearers throughout the day.

• 3.3 oz eau de toilette splash: A lighter concentration of fragrance compared to the parfum, perfect for those who prefer a more subtle scent experience.

• 2.5 oz eau de toilette spray: Combining convenience with a refreshing burst of fragrance, this spray option provided an easy and effortless way to enjoy Isadora's captivating aroma.

• 1.7 oz eau de toilette: A versatile option for everyday wear, offering a balanced concentration of fragrance that lingered gently on the skin.

• 6 oz dusting powder: A luxurious addition to the collection, the dusting powder offered a sensual and pampering experience, leaving the skin delicately scented and velvety smooth.

With this diverse range of sizes and formulations, Isadora perfume catered to the preferences and desires of fragrance connoisseurs, ensuring that everyone could experience the timeless elegance and allure of this beloved scent.

Photo by Mathesons' AA Auction

Embossed on the bottom of the bottle is "Isadora 1979 Bottle Made In France. The bottom of the box is marked "Parfum ¼ Fl.oz-7.3 mi Ref.1007.1 EMB.27220 Parfums Isadora Paris Made in France. Vente exclusive par les depositaires agrees Isadora US Dist. Isadora Group Ltd. New York-N.Y. 10022 Composition: Alcool ethylique-Eau demineralisee-Perfum Colorant: Neant: Contains: Ethyl (A)-Demineralized water (E)-Fragrance (D) Colorings: None."

Playbill, 1980:

"Remember Vanessa Redgrave portraying still another controversial lady in the film, Isadora? Luscious, wasn't it? Now there's a new perfume named for that dancer of the many veils. A flowery oriental, this Isadora, quite lovely, from the Paris designer Danielle Poullain. And its bottle is self-assertive even on my crowded collection-table. Very Art Deco, its crystal stopper is a kneeling figure, dressed modestly in a fine gold cord and a string of "pearls." Kind of smashing, $100. Macy's."

History of the Bottle:

Contrary to popular belief, the assertion that Lalique designed and produced the bottle for Isadora perfume is inaccurate. This misconception has been perpetuated by the authors of Fragrance Bottle Masterpieces, Ball & Torem, who claimed that Lalique created the design in the 1930s as a tribute to the iconic dancer and actress Isadora Duncan. However, this claim has been debunked as unfounded. The authors' track record of inaccuracies regarding Lalique attributions casts doubt on their credibility. Extensive research through Lalique reference books and archives has failed to uncover any evidence supporting Lalique's involvement in crafting the Isadora perfume bottle. It's crucial to rely on verifiable sources and historical records when discussing the origins of artistic creations to avoid perpetuating misinformation.

Let's delve into the evolution of the iconic perfume bottle associated with Isadora fragrance, tracing its origins and early appearances:

• 1925: The earliest version of the bottle emerged, initially introduced for various perfumers. Produced by the BTCIC Glassworks, this iteration laid the foundation for the bottle's distinctive design. See the advertisement below.

• 1940s: The bottle continued its journey, finding its way into the realm of perfumes by Eroy. Specifically, it was utilized for two fragrances: Adoree and Ortie. This period marked the bottle's further integration into the perfume industry, solidifying its presence as a recognizable vessel for fragrance.

• 1939: During this pivotal year, the bottle saw renewed usage across a diverse range of perfumes. Notable fragrances that adopted this bottle design include:

Sesquoia by Rene Pierre (also known as Pierre Dune)

J' en Osé by Caray in 1932

J'Ose by de Mareze

Mademoiselle Pigalle by HF Sorel

There's also a reference suggesting its potential utilization by Houbigant, adding to its diverse portfolio of perfumes.

These early incarnations of the bottle featured a female figure as the stopper, seated elegantly on a cushion. This distinctive design element became synonymous with the bottle, adding a touch of sophistication and charm to its aesthetic appeal. Each iteration of the bottle throughout these decades contributed to its legacy as an iconic vessel within the perfume industry.

c1928 ad from Modern Perfumery Magazine

Timeline for the bottle:

• 1925: The bottle is introduced by BTCIC for use by various perfumers in France.
• 1930: J'en Osé or J'Ose by de Mareze
• 1930: Mademoiselle Pigalle by HF Sorel
• 1932: J'en Osé by Caray
• 1935: Jolie Marquise by de Molines
• 1940: Sequoia by Rene (Pierre) Dune
• 1940: Adoree by Eroy
• 1940: Ortie by Eroy
• 1940: Volupte by Eroy

This timeline succinctly outlines the bottle's evolution, highlighting its usage across a range of perfumes from different perfumers and brands. It demonstrates the bottle's enduring presence and adaptability within the perfume industry, spanning multiple decades and contributing to its iconic status.

Jolie Marquise by de Molines c1935

Sequoia by Rene (Pierre) Dune c1940

Adoree by Eroy c1940s, photo by Rago Arts

Inspiration:

The inspiration behind the iconic perfume bottle traces back to the flamboyant and captivating persona of Gaby Deslys, a renowned actress, dancer, and courtesan who captivated audiences during the early 20th century in Marseilles, France. Deslys was celebrated not only for her mesmerizing performances but also for her extravagant costumes and charismatic allure, which left an indelible mark on the cultural landscape of her time.

The design of the perfume bottle, with its graceful female figure seated elegantly on a cushion, reflects the elegance and glamour associated with Deslys' persona. Just as Deslys enchanted audiences with her performances, the bottle exudes a sense of sophistication and charm, evoking the spirit of the era in which she thrived.

Through this connection to Gaby Deslys, the perfume bottle transcends its role as a mere vessel for fragrance, becoming a symbol of beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the early 20th century.

Isadora by Parfums Isadora:

In 1979, a modernized version of the iconic perfume bottle design was introduced for Isadora perfume, marking a new chapter in its legacy. Designed by the esteemed Pierre Dinand and meticulously manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, this updated rendition paid homage to the timeless elegance of the original while infusing it with contemporary flair.

Named after the legendary actress and dancer Isadora Duncan, Isadora perfume embodied the grace and sophistication associated with its namesake. Classified as an oriental parfum, it exuded a captivating aroma that resonated with wearers.

The redesigned bottle retained the iconic seated female figure as the stopper, a nod to the bottle's heritage. However, it now rested upon a sleek flat disk bottle, departing from the cushion bottle design of its predecessor. Additionally, the name "Isadora" was elegantly serigraphed in gold on the front of the bottle, adding a touch of luxury and refinement.

In 1990, a rare version of Isadora perfume was crafted in the Czech Republic, further enriching its storied history. Despite its rarity, Isadora perfume continues to be produced today, with a wide range of sizes available online, ensuring that its timeless allure can be experienced by fragrance enthusiasts around the world.

The Isadora Name:

It's fascinating to note that the name "Isadora" has graced perfume bottles before. In 1910, Caron introduced the original Isadora perfume, paying homage to the actress and dancer Isadora Duncan. This fragrance, crafted by the talented perfumer Ernest Daltroff, was a testament to her enduring legacy.

The bottle housing the original Isadora perfume was as distinctive as the fragrance itself. Designed by Julien Viard and crafted by Verreries Romesnil, it took the form of an ancient Greek amphora, evoking a sense of timeless elegance and classical beauty. Available in both clear and opalescent glass, the flacon added a touch of sophistication to the presentation of the fragrance.

This early incarnation of Isadora perfume, with its exquisite bottle design and rich history, laid the foundation for subsequent interpretations of the fragrance, including the 1979 version that bears the same name. It's a testament to the lasting influence of Isadora Duncan and her enduring impact on the world of fragrance and beauty.

Brief Biography of Gaby Deslys:

Gaby Deslys, the petite singer and dancer, garnered a legion of admirers, including royalty, most notably King Manuel II of Portugal. Her captivating performances, notably the 'The Gaby Glide', earned her fame on both sides of the Atlantic, captivating audiences with her grace and charm.

Among her admirers was the Scottish novelist J.M. Barrie, who was so enchanted by her that he penned a one-act play titled "Rosy Rapture" for her. Deslys' celebrity status soared, fueled in part by newspaper stories that sensationalized King Manuel's infatuation with her.

Legend has it that King Manuel II gifted Deslys a pearl necklace worth $70,000 after their initial encounter in Paris in July 1909, cementing their connection in the public eye and adding to Deslys' allure as a glamorous and sought-after figure of her time.

Cecil Beaton, known English society member and photographer in the 1940s, writes of Gaby Deslys, whom he admired in his youth:

"... something about Gaby Deslys' whole esculent appearance called to mind a basket of fruit, real or imitation ... her breasts were round, with unpointed nipples... Her silky hair was dyed a greenish marzipan gold, possibly like Dorian Gray's, but more like that of a child in a perambulator. 

... her hat, resembling airplane propellers or a Brancusi bird... These huge constructions of gauze were rampant with the ubiquitous feathers of tropical birds, parrots or flamingos. She was, in short, a human aviary. 

... If Gaby wore an ecru-coloured tussore suit with a coal scuttle of full-blown roses on her head, or a dress of velvet and diamante trellis, I might well feel I had discovered a new continent. Her fantasy spread to embrace even the little Chihuahuas she kept as pets, Mexican creatures so spindly and shivery that one felt certain they could not survive a winter in subtropical Nice unless they were wrapped in dark Russian sables. And they were."

 In a song from 1913, dedicated to her:
"(DEDICATED TO GABY DESLYS)

Beautiful creature of my dreams,
On thy golden head there gleams
A glorious light, so soft, it seems
A radiance supernatural.
Beautiful angel Gabrielle! 

Neath penciled brows, thy lustrous eyes
Are full of laughing pained surprise
At thy misdeeds, thou wouldst disguise,
From me who loves thee far too well.
Beautiful angel Gabrielle ! 

Ah, I would kiss thy glowing lips,
Much as the butterfly that dips
Into the crimson rose, and sips
The nectar from that source divine;
Then falls, o'ercome by joy and wine. 

Though from thy charms, my great love came,
Yet from those charms I must refrain.
Give me a lily from thy name,
And free me from thy clinging spell.
Oh, lovely angel Gabrielle! "

Gaby Deslys's allure extended beyond royalty, captivating the attention of notable figures like Gordon Selfridge, the founder of Selfridges Department Stores. Selfridge, known for his fascination with showgirls and dancers, showered Gaby with lavish gifts that bespoke his admiration.

Among the extravagant gifts, Selfridge presented Gaby with a rope of pearls as long as her height, symbolizing his admiration and appreciation for her talent and charm. Additionally, he went a step further by purchasing the lease of a house and furnishing it with luxurious items from his store, including rugs, linen, silver, china, and crystal, creating a sanctuary of opulence for Gaby.

Daily deliveries of vast baskets of flowers and hampers filled with delicacies further underscored Selfridge's lavish gestures of affection towards Gaby. Gaby's penchant for fashion was legendary, earning her the reputation as an original material girl. One of her great passions was her hats, and her collection of feathered headgear by Maison Lewis was so extensive that she once had to book a second cabin when crossing the Atlantic, solely to accommodate her extravagant hat collection.

Gaby's relationship with Gordon Selfridge epitomized the glitz and glamour of the era, reflecting a world where showmanship and extravagance reigned supreme.

Despite Gordon Selfridge's efforts to keep his affair with Gaby Deslys discreet, it was an open secret among his staff at Selfridges Department Stores. Gaby's diva-like presence within the store was undeniable, as she freely indulged herself in whatever caught her fancy during her visits. The bills for her extravagant purchases were routinely charged to "the Chief's private account," further fueling speculation among the staff.

One incident, in particular, highlighted the lengths Selfridge went to in order to appease Gaby's desires. When Gaby lost her beloved pet dog during one of her visits to the store, she was inconsolable. Selfridge swiftly sprang into action, orchestrating what his secretary dubbed "Operation Dog." This involved posting missing notices, offering a reward, and even contacting the police. Fortunately, the pampered pooch was eventually found, much to Gaby's relief.

The intensity of their affair led Selfridge to make drastic decisions, including relocating his family to the countryside to allow himself the freedom to accompany Gaby around London without arousing suspicion. His devotion to Gaby was evident in his extravagant gestures, such as topping up her bulging jewel boxes with diamonds and presenting her with a sensational rope of black pearls, ensuring that she was lavished with the finest luxuries money could buy.

Gaby Deslys's fascination with pearls was legendary, and she possessed an impressive collection of these lustrous gems. Among her prized possessions was a diamond necklace adorned with black and white pearl drops, set in a platinum band. This exquisite piece of jewelry reflected Gaby's refined taste and love for luxurious accessories. Her passion for pearls knew no bounds, and she once claimed that she owned her weight in pearls, underscoring the extent of her obsession.

Deslys's influence extended beyond her dazzling jewelry collection; she also wielded considerable power in the entertainment industry. When she was slated to play a role opposite Mae West, she reportedly had Mae removed from the project. When asked about being compared to Gaby by the press, Mae West responded with her trademark wit and confidence, declaring, "I believe I will go to Paris and get myself a king. See my diamond pins. Gaby has nothing on me with her pearls."

This exchange exemplifies the rivalry and larger-than-life personalities of these two iconic figures, each asserting their dominance and unique style in the world of entertainment and fashion.

Gaby Deslys's life took a tragic turn in December 1919 when she contracted a severe throat infection as a result of influenza. Despite undergoing multiple surgeries in an attempt to eradicate the infection, including two operations without anesthesia, Deslys remained adamant that surgeons not scar her neck, fearing it would mar her appearance.

According to a newspaper cutting from Helena Rubinstein, she died of a throat ailment which could have been cured by surgery, but she preferred death to scarring. "She showed as much of her bosom as was socially safe," Rubenstein adds. "She made a point of displaying her lovely legs, too, in the sheerest of lace stockings and she wore incredibly high heels studded with rhinestones."

Deslys passed away in Paris in February 1920, leaving behind a legacy marked by her unique talents, charisma, and iconic persona. Sadly, her contributions to the entertainment industry could not be preserved for posterity through motion pictures, as sound film technology did not arrive until 1926 with the advent of Vitaphone shorts. Despite this, Deslys's impact on the cultural landscape of her time remains undeniable, cementing her status as a legendary figure in the annals of entertainment history.

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