Shiseido Enchanting Dance vs Clamy's Femme Ailees Perfume Bottle

Enchanting Dance by Shiseido, launched in 1987, carries a name that instantly evokes images of beauty in motion, elegance, and timeless allure. The phrase "Enchanting Dance" suggests a captivating performance—graceful, fluid, and mesmerizing. It hints at a story told through movement, with each step drawing the viewer further into a magical, almost otherworldly experience. Shiseido likely chose this name to reflect the seamless blend of artistry and beauty that both dance and fragrance embody. Just as a dancer can convey emotions through subtle gestures and sweeping movements, this fragrance promises to do the same through its delicate, evolving notes.

The word "Enchanting Dance" conjures up emotions of grace, charm, and mystery. It suggests a moment in time where the dancer, bathed in soft light, captivates an audience with her effortless elegance. In scent, it evokes the idea of transformation—how each phase of the fragrance unfolds like a dance, moving from the fresh, light beginnings to deeper, more sensual undertones. Women in 1987, a time of empowerment and self-expression, would have been drawn to the idea of wearing a perfume called "Enchanting Dance." It offered a way to embody grace, femininity, and the ability to leave a lasting impression, much like a memorable performance on stage. The name taps into a desire for a sense of beauty that feels both personal and universal, allowing women to feel connected to an art form that transcends time and culture.

In scent, "Enchanting Dance" would be interpreted as a harmonious progression, where each note mirrors the flowing movements of a dancer. The fresh floral top notes symbolize the lightness of a dancer’s opening sequence, full of energy and promise. The floral heart would be the peak of the performance, where elegance and passion combine, much like a perfectly timed pirouette. The woody, ambery base notes represent the finale, where the dancer’s movements slow and come to a graceful, lasting close, leaving behind an air of mystery and depth. Each phase of the fragrance reflects a different mood, much like the varying emotions conveyed through dance.

The fragrance was launched at a time when the perfume industry was moving through a period of bold statements. The late 1980s saw the rise of strong, powerful fragrances that matched the energy of the decade—think of iconic scents like Dior’s "Poison" (1985) or YSL’s "Opium" (1977), which were rich, heady, and unafraid to stand out. "Enchanting Dance," classified as a floral chypre, struck a balance between the floral elegance of traditional feminine scents and the woody, amber base that reflected the popular chypre trend of the time. While it followed the broader trends of bolder compositions, it differentiated itself with its grace and poise, offering something more refined and delicate amid the assertive perfumes of the era.

The context of Shiseido launching Enchanting Dance in conjunction with the Metropolitan Museum of Art's "Dance" exhibit only enhances its connection to artistry and refinement. The fragrance was not only a product but a cultural experience, interwoven with the themes of the exhibit that explored the history and beauty of dance. Shiseido’s partnership with the MMA positioned the perfume as more than just a scent—it was an olfactory companion to a visual and emotional experience. The use of the fragrance throughout the Costume Institute's galleries would have made it part of the exhibit’s ambiance, with visitors experiencing both the sight and scent of elegance. Women visiting the exhibit or shopping at Saks Fifth Avenue during this time would have been transported into the world of dance through a sensory journey, with "Enchanting Dance" evoking both the beauty of the exhibit and the artistry of the fragrance itself.

In summary, "Enchanting Dance" encapsulated the grace of movement, the allure of femininity, and the refined elegance that defined Shiseido’s aesthetic. Its timing in the late 1980s aligned it with trends, yet its connection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the concept of dance lent it an artistic sophistication that set it apart from the more dramatic, overtly bold fragrances of the era. It was a perfume for women who sought not just to wear a scent, but to embody a timeless, enchanting grace.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Enchanting Dance is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a woody, ambery base.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, rosewood, cardamom, green note, aldehyde
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, ylang ylang, tuberose, carnation, honey
• Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, cistus, amber, civet, benzoin, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Enchanting Dance unfolds like a beautifully choreographed performance, with each ingredient playing its part to create a mesmerizing experience. The journey begins with the fresh burst of bergamot and lemon. The initial spray is bright and citrusy, like the first steps of a dancer gliding across the stage, full of energy and life. The sharpness of the citrus notes is immediately softened by the smooth, slightly spicy scent of rosewood, which lends a warm, woody undertone to the opening. 

Then, a hint of cardamom comes through, adding a whisper of exotic spice, making the composition feel both familiar and mysterious at once. The green notes and aldehyde further lift the fragrance with their crisp, airy quality, like a fresh breeze that cuts through the intensity, bringing a sense of clarity and elegance.

As the top notes settle, the heart of the fragrance takes center stage, where the floral bouquet blooms in full force. Rose comes forward first, soft and romantic, evoking the delicate movements of a dancer’s arms as they gracefully sweep through the air. It’s a classic, timeless floral, but it’s quickly accompanied by the lush sensuality of jasmine, which adds depth and warmth, like the fluid, sensual sway of a body in perfect rhythm. 

The lily of the valley lends a sweet, innocent charm, its freshness akin to the lightness of a dancer’s feet, while orris brings a velvety powderiness, like the soft rustle of a costume. The addition of ylang-ylang enhances the creamy, floral aspect, making the heart feel opulent and luxurious, while tuberose introduces a headier, intoxicating sweetness that feels like the moment when the dance reaches its emotional crescendo. C

arnation, with its slightly spicy, clove-like scent, adds complexity, reminding us of the layered intricacies in both fragrance and movement. A drizzle of honey coats the heart, adding a golden warmth and richness, like the glow of stage lights casting a soft sheen over the dancer.

The final act of Enchanting Dance is the base, where the fragrance takes on a deep, sensual quality. Patchouli makes an earthy, grounding entrance, reminiscent of the dancer’s feet connecting with the stage, bringing a sense of rootedness and strength. 

Sandalwood, with its creamy, smooth character, adds a serene warmth, like the dancer's fluid movements in the final act, while vetiver brings a hint of smokiness and sharpness, evoking an air of mystery and elegance. The inclusion of cistus—with its resinous, slightly sweet, and balsamic quality—adds a sense of richness, wrapping the composition in an inviting warmth.

As the scent deepens, the amber and benzoin introduce a rich, golden sweetness, blending with the resinous notes to create an almost hypnotic effect. The amber is warm and enveloping, like the lingering memory of a beautiful dance, while the benzoin adds a velvety, creamy finish. Oakmoss anchors the entire composition, its mossy, earthy scent adding depth and a touch of chypre elegance, while civet—used sparingly—adds a soft animalic quality that hints at sensuality, without overwhelming the composition.

Each layer of Enchanting Dance is like a different phase of a performance, where the ingredients weave together, creating a balanced, harmonious experience. It’s a fragrance that captures the elegance, fluidity, and emotional range of dance itself, with fresh, floral, and woody notes coming together to evoke a timeless, enchanting grace.

Bottle:

The bottle for Enchanting Dance was a masterpiece of both art and history, directly inspired by the iconic design for Femme Ailées (Winged Woman), a perfume created by Les Parfums De Clamy Paris in 1913. The original bottle design, housed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is a true testament to the craftsmanship of the early 20th century, blending delicate artistry with a sense of timeless femininity. For the limited edition release of Enchanting Dance in 1986, Shiseido chose to faithfully reproduce this historical bottle, capturing the spirit of its exquisite predecessor, echoing an era of elegance and refined beauty.

The reproduction bottle, crafted to hold 20 ml of parfum, was an exacting homage to the 1913 original. Verreries Brosse, the same glassmakers responsible for producing the original Femme Ailées bottle, was selected for the task. Shiseido’s decision to enlist Verreries Brosse instead of the erroneously attributed Lalique added an authentic layer to the project, ensuring that the craftsmanship and integrity of the bottle were as faithful as possible to the 1913 design. The misunderstanding surrounding Lalique's involvement—reflected in some of Shiseido’s early promotional materials—was corrected by those in the know, and it was ultimately recognized that Verreries Brosse played the key role in both the original and the reproduction.

The Art Nouveau design itself, originally conceived by Lucien Gaillard, stands out for its sophisticated artistry. Gaillard, a jeweler and artist who often infused his creations with a sense of the natural world, chose the winged woman motif to symbolize grace, ethereality, and feminine mystique. The woman, adorned with delicate wings, seems to hover between the realms of reality and dream—an ideal reflection of both the perfume and the concept of an "enchanting dance." The intricate glasswork, with soft curves and detailed sculpting, provides a tactile and visual experience that complements the luxurious scent it houses.

When Shiseido unveiled this reproduction for Enchanting Dance, they not only celebrated the history of perfume bottle design but also aligned themselves with a legacy of artistic excellence. Verreries Brosse, known for their precision and expertise, had long been Shiseido's partner in the creation of its perfume bottles, so the choice to entrust them with this special project further reinforced their long-standing collaboration. The Enchanting Dance bottle, with its historical and artistic significance, became more than just a vessel for fragrance; it was a piece of art, embodying a century of perfumery heritage.

This careful reproduction, drawing from Gaillard’s original vision, encapsulated the elegance of an era while offering a modern interpretation for the 1980s woman. The bottle was not just a nostalgic nod to the past but a celebration of enduring beauty, making Enchanting Dance a truly enchanting experience in both scent and presentation.

First image of Shiseido's Enchanting Dance from Perfume Bottles Auction.

Replicas of the iconic Femme Ailées (Winged Woman) perfume bottle were produced by the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MMA) in two distinct releases, first in 1986 and later in 1992, allowing collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike to own a piece of design history. These replicas were made by Verreries Brosse, the same esteemed glassmakers who crafted the original 1913 bottle for Les Parfums De Clamy Paris and later the reproduction for Shiseido’s Enchanting Dance.

Each of these meticulously crafted bottles bears a mark on the base, indicating its year of production—either "MMA 1986" or "MMA 1992"—offering a clear distinction between the two production periods. Despite being reproductions, these bottles are celebrated for their fidelity to the original design, capturing the grace and elegance of Lucien Gaillard's original vision. The intricate detail of the winged woman, with her delicately sculpted wings and serene expression, remains a central feature, reflecting the artistic craftsmanship that made the original such a treasure.

Measuring approximately 4.75 inches long and 2.5 inches tall with the stopper in place, these replicas are both substantial and delicate, embodying the balance of form and function that defines the best of perfume bottle design. The size is perfect for display, allowing the bottle’s graceful contours and detailed sculpting to be fully appreciated. While they do not hold perfume, these replicas serve as beautiful art objects, imbued with historical significance and a connection to both early 20th-century perfumery and the modern era of perfume collecting.

For those fortunate enough to acquire one, whether from the 1986 or 1992 production run, the MMA Femme Ailées replicas are more than just decorative pieces—they are tangible links to a rich artistic and cultural tradition. The craftsmanship of Verreries Brosse, combined with the timeless design of Lucien Gaillard, ensures that these bottles are cherished not only for their beauty but also for their symbolic representation of feminine grace and artistry.

Distinguishing between the three versions of the Femme Ailées (Winged Woman) perfume bottle—Shiseido's Enchanting Dance reproduction, the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MMA) replicas, and the original 1913 bottle by Les Parfums De Clamy Paris—can be achieved by carefully examining key details, particularly the stoppers and markings.

The Shiseido version, created in 1986 for the limited edition Enchanting Dance fragrance, features a distinguishing feature on its stopper: a plastic-covered dowel. This plastic covering serves as a practical component, likely intended to secure the fit of the stopper within the bottle and preserve the fragrance. The presence of plastic here is a clear giveaway that the bottle belongs to the Shiseido reproduction, which was intended for use with perfume and thus required modern functional adjustments.

In contrast, the MMA replicas, produced in 1986 and 1992, do not feature the plastic-covered dowel found in the Shiseido version. Instead, these bottles are marked with a clear acid-etched inscription on the base: "© MMA 1986" or "© MMA 1992", depending on the year of production. This acid marking is a key identifier for the museum replicas and is often located on the underside of the bottle, providing a discreet but unmistakable indication of its origin. The MMA versions were created as collectible art pieces rather than functional perfume bottles, so they lack the practical stopper design of the Shiseido version.

Finally, the original Femme Ailées bottle from 1913, designed by Lucien Gaillard and produced by Verreries Brosse for Les Parfums De Clamy Paris, has no such modern markings or plastic components. This historic bottle, a true artifact of early 20th-century perfume craftsmanship, does not have any plastic on the stopper and carries no markings on its base. The absence of any branding or acid etching reflects the practices of the time, when bottles were designed primarily as luxurious vessels for fragrance, without the necessity for identifying production marks seen in modern reproductions.

By carefully inspecting the stopper—plastic-covered dowel for Shiseido, unmarked stopper for the MMA replicas, and the plain stopper for the original—and noting the presence (or absence) of acid-etched markings, collectors and enthusiasts can confidently determine the origin of each bottle.

This is the original Femme Ailees by Les Parfums De Clamy c1913.

Bibliography:

• Marketing Madness by Michael F. Jacobson & Laurie Ann Mazur, 1995.
• New York Times article from 1990.
• Picture credit : Russian blog "Perfume Dreams"

Les Parfums de Clamy

Les Parfums de Clamy was established in 1913 by Philippe de Back in the prestigious Arcade des Champs-Elysées in Paris, a location synonymous with elegance and luxury. Despite its brief existence, de Clamy's impact on the world of perfumery remains notable, especially for its exquisite fragrance presentations. The full company name, 'Les Parfums de Clamy, Créations d'Art,' reflects the brand's commitment to blending fragrance with artistic expression, an ethos that was visible in both the scents they crafted and the stunning Art Nouveau bottles that housed them. Each creation was a work of art in itself, designed to captivate the senses not just through scent but through the beauty of the bottle.

Unfortunately, the company's fortunes took a downward turn following the stock market crash of 1929, a global economic event that caused widespread financial hardship. In the wake of the crash, de Clamy was forced to cease production, and the company’s remaining raw materials were sold to Guerlain, one of the most prestigious names in French perfumery. This transaction marked the end of de Clamy’s brief foray into the perfume world, as it struggled to stay afloat in the harsh economic climate of the time.

Though de Clamy ceased production after the crash, its legacy lingered on in the form of its rare and breathtaking bottles. Crafted during the height of the Art Nouveau movement, these bottles encapsulated the style’s emphasis on flowing lines, natural forms, and intricate detailing. They have since become highly coveted collector’s items, and finding an original de Clamy bottle today is an almost impossible feat. These rare bottles, prized for their beauty as much as their historical significance, are a testament to de Clamy’s ambition to create both a fragrance and an artistic experience.

In 1943, the remnants of Les Parfums de Clamy were acquired by Grenoville, another esteemed French perfume house, which preserved some of the brand's legacy, though the name de Clamy itself faded into obscurity. While short-lived, the brand's influence continues to resonate among collectors and perfume historians, who celebrate de Clamy for its innovative approach to perfume design and its dedication to crafting fragrances that were as luxurious to look at as they were to wear.

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