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Saturday, March 22, 2014

Rodin & Merle Norman Perfumes

Rodin Paris was established in 1946 by Merle Norman (S.A.R.L.), with its flagship location at 9 rue Auber in Paris. This luxury perfume house was founded by J.B. Nethercutt and his aunt, Merle Nethercutt Norman, who were also the visionaries behind Merle Norman Cosmetics. Together, they set out to capture the elegance and allure of French perfumery through the Rodin Paris brand, blending their family’s commitment to quality with the sophistication associated with Parisian fragrance culture.

Merle Norman, a renowned figure in the beauty industry, brought her extensive experience and dedication to beauty products to the forefront of the brand. J.B. Nethercutt, equally passionate about the world of beauty and luxury, contributed his business acumen and creative vision, helping to shape Rodin Paris into a refined fragrance house. Located in the heart of Paris, the brand’s base at rue Auber was ideally situated amidst the bustling perfume and fashion districts, making it a fitting home for Rodin Paris as it catered to an international clientele drawn to the sophistication of French perfumes. Through this collaboration, Merle Norman and J.B. Nethercutt not only expanded their family business into the realm of fine fragrances but also left an indelible mark on the post-war fragrance industry by embracing the artistry and tradition of French perfumery.

In 1931, Merle Nethercutt Norman started a modest cosmetics business from her home in Santa Monica. It was a challenging time to launch a new venture, especially in the depths of the Great Depression, but Merle was determined to make it a success. Her nephew, J.B. Nethercutt, joined her soon after, leaving college to lend his support and enthusiasm. Together, they worked to build Merle Norman Cosmetics, which soon gained a reputation for quality and innovation. Known for his expertise in cosmetic chemistry, J.B. Nethercutt played a pivotal role in developing some of the company’s most popular products, including blush rouge, perfume, and lipsticks. His contributions helped establish a loyal customer base and solidified the brand's place in the growing beauty industry.

As the company grew, Nethercutt took decisive steps to expand the business. He eventually bought out Merle, her husband, and other shareholders, taking full control of Merle Norman Cosmetics. Under his leadership, the company flourished, reaching $100 million in annual sales at its peak. Today, the Merle Norman brand is well-known across the United States, with approximately 2,000 franchises nationwide, each offering an array of beauty products that have become staples in many households. Now, Nethercutt's son Jack continues the family legacy, leading the cosmetics company into a new era while maintaining the core values of quality and innovation that have always defined the brand.

Among the many products developed under the Merle Norman brand, two standout fragrances—Sacree (also known as Sacree by Norman) and Vivons—debuted in 1946, reflecting the company’s expansion into the perfume market. These fragrances, like Nethercutt’s other creations, exemplified his attention to detail and commitment to crafting memorable beauty products that resonated with customers and contributed to the brand's enduring success.

Merle Norman's collection of perfumes in the 1970s showcased a variety of scents, each tailored to capture a unique essence and mood. In 1971, Kari introduced an exotic twist to the lineup. Classified as an oriental fragrance, Kari enveloped wearers in a luxurious blend of jasmine and rose, softened by warm spices and a smoky hint of incense. The addition of sandalwood imparted an earthy, comforting warmth, creating a fragrance that was both captivating and mysterious.

Launched in 1972, Baroque embraced the romantic with its lush floral profile. This fragrance opened with bright aldehydes and a hint of amber, blending seamlessly with fresh citrus, lilac, and warm woody and mossy undertones. The result was an elegant and richly layered scent, ideal for those seeking a timeless floral with a touch of sophistication.

In 1975, three distinct perfumes joined the Merle Norman family, each offering its own unique personality. MN, a casual and refreshing fragrance, appealed to lovers of nature with its green floral-forest composition. Aldehydes lifted the opening, while ivy and wild jasmine imparted a light, airy quality reminiscent of a walk through a dewy forest.

Sylmar, also released in 1975, offered a lighter, woodsy scent. This fragrance was a harmonious blend of roses, fruit blossoms, and bright citrus notes, evoking the delicate freshness of a blooming orchard.

Another 1975 addition, Chatelaine, leaned toward the opulent and exotic. As an oriental perfume, it combined rich, complex notes designed to evoke the allure of far-off lands.

Finally, Arabesque, released in 1976, became known for its sophisticated, spicy floral composition. This fragrance brought together musk, sandalwood, and an intricate blend of herb and spice notes to create a scent both intriguing and elegant. Arabesque embodied an air of timeless beauty, appealing to those who favored a more complex and bold fragrance statement.

Each of these fragrances showcased Merle Norman’s dedication to creating distinctive scents that catered to a variety of tastes, while embodying the spirit and style of their time.



The perfumes of Merle Norman:

  • 1940 Regency
  • 1945 Adoration (this is the re-branded fragrance 'Sacrée' by Rodin)
  • 1946 Sacree
  • 1946 First Kiss
  • 1946 Merlita
  • 1947 Jonquiljoy
  • 1950 Tulaire (sparkling, fresh, spring flowers and woods)
  • 1950 Resort
  • 1953 Jolly Sin (a spicy oriental)
  • 1953 Malibou Mist
  • 1953 Hi-Jinx
  • 1953 Venture
  • 1953 Golden Feather
  • 1955 Dianthus
  • 1955 Caress
  • 1957 Constantly
  • 1957 Impact
  • 1959 Norman for Men
  • 1962 Pikaki (modern floral)
  • 1962 Ginger Flower (spicy island blossoms)
  • 1963 Lasting Spring
  • 1966 Vivons
  • 1971 Kari 
  • 1972 Baroque 
  • 1975 MN
  • 1975 Sylmar 
  • 1975 Chatelaine
  • 1976 Arabesque (still sold in 1983)
  • 1987 Decollete


Merle Norman's Adoration perfume was not only a scent but also a statement piece. Housed within an exquisite gilded bottle, the design took inspiration from a Thai-style goddess, a nod to the allure and mystique of Eastern art and culture. This unique bottle, with its distinctive shape and intricate detailing, immediately drew attention for its decorative appeal and symbolism. The goddess figure sat poised and serene, embodying an otherworldly elegance that invited admiration.

The most captivating feature of the bottle was the goddess's impassive head, which could be removed to reveal a faceted stopper beneath. This clever design choice added a touch of surprise and playfulness to the perfume experience, transforming an ordinary act into a ritual. Once the head was lifted, the stopper, with its jewel-like facets, hinted at the precious fragrance within. The golden finish of the bottle added a sense of luxury, making it as much a piece of art as a perfume container. For collectors and perfume lovers alike, Adoration was a truly unique addition to any vanity, blending the sensory pleasure of fine fragrance with the aesthetic appeal of a beautifully crafted objet d’art.




c1945 ad




Nethercutt. Established by J.B. Nethercutt in Santa Monica, Ca; affiliated with Merle Norman and Rodin.
  • 1935 Tulaire
  • 1946 First Kiss
  • 1946 Merlita
  • 1947Jonquiljoy
  • 1950 Resort
  • 1953 Golden Feather

2 comments:

  1. Is Merle Norman Chattelaine still sold? I didn't see it on the discontinued list.

    ReplyDelete
  2. My favorite perfume was Kari. I would love to have some again because it worked with my body's natural scent, but I don't want to pay an outrageous price. Where can I buy it besides e-bay?

    ReplyDelete

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