Lanselle Parfumeur

Lanselle Parfumeur was founded in 1930 by René Lanselle and François de Perthuis, establishing itself at 5 rue Montaigne in Paris, a location synonymous with luxury and high fashion. The brand emerged during a time of great innovation and creativity in the perfume industry, positioning itself among the esteemed perfumers of Paris.

René Lanselle and François de Perthuis brought their combined expertise to the creation of Lanselle Parfumeur, infusing the brand with a refined sense of style and a deep understanding of fragrance composition. The choice of their boutique’s address on rue Montaigne, a street renowned for its elegance and association with the haute couture industry, reflected their ambition to cater to a sophisticated and discerning clientele.

Lanselle Parfumeur was also closely linked to Les Parfums Verchère, indicating a collaboration or shared influence between the two houses. This association suggests that Lanselle Parfumeur may have drawn inspiration from or contributed to the broader creative landscape of Parisian perfumery at the time.

The perfumes produced by Lanselle Parfumeur were likely characterized by a blend of traditional and modern elements, appealing to those who sought fragrances that embodied both timeless elegance and contemporary chic. Their creations would have captured the essence of Parisian glamour, making Lanselle Parfumeur a noteworthy name in the history of early 20th-century perfumery.

In 1945, Lanselle Parfumeur transitioned to a prestigious new address at 6, Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées, Paris. This move marked a significant moment in the brand's history, as it relocated to one of the most iconic and fashionable areas in Paris. The Champs-Elysées, often referred to as "the most beautiful avenue in the world," is synonymous with luxury, elegance, and the high art of Parisian living.

By establishing their presence at this esteemed location, Lanselle Parfumeur further solidified its reputation as a purveyor of fine fragrances. The move to the Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées likely reflected the brand's growth and success, positioning it even closer to the heart of Parisian luxury. This prestigious address would have attracted a sophisticated clientele, enhancing the brand's allure and aligning it with other high-end fashion houses and luxury boutiques in the area.

The relocation to this iconic address also underscored Lanselle Parfumeur's commitment to maintaining its status as a key player in the competitive world of French perfumery. The post-war period in Paris was a time of renewal and revival, and Lanselle's move to the Champs-Elysées could be seen as a symbol of resilience and ambition, embodying the spirit of Paris as it reclaimed its position as the global capital of fashion and luxury.

In a 1945 Paris shopping directory, an interview with Mr. Lanselle reveals a period of renewal and optimism for Lanselle Parfumeur. Upon reconnecting with Mr. Lanselle after his departure to join his unit in August 1939, he warmly welcomed the query and invited a visit to his new offices at the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées. The setting was still under transformation, with artisans busy decorating the sumptuous exhibition rooms. The space was beginning to take shape, adorned with whites and golds that would soon form the backdrop for visitors and buyers from both France and abroad.

When asked about his achievements and future plans, Mr. Lanselle highlighted the company's enduring motto: “La Maison Lanselle ne sollicite pas, elle s’impose” (Lanselle House does not solicit; it asserts itself). Despite the challenges of the war, Lanselle and his associate, Mr. de Perthuis, continued to work diligently, developing a new range of beauty products whose sales were steadily increasing.

Mr. Lanselle spoke with particular enthusiasm about their latest creations. The "Série des As" included fragrances named "Pique" (Spade), "Trèfle" (Clover), "Coeur" (Heart), and "Carreau" (Diamond), which had already garnered success before the war and would soon be presented in luxurious packaging. Following this series was the new “Banco,” which Mr. Lanselle described with high hopes. It features a floral opening that transitions into a distinctive and original leather base.

He also introduced "Martingale," a warm floral chypre fragrance blending ylang-ylang with forest flowers, and "Forcing," a sweet floral scent combining heliotrope, rose, and valerian into a smooth fragrance. For the American market, Lanselle released "Coucou," a warm oriental perfume with jasmine and rose evoking Arabian scents, presented in a striking avant-garde bottle that caught the attention of Anglo-Saxon clientele.

Lanselle Parfumeur's offerings included these luxurious extracts: "Pique," "Banco," "Martingale," "Forcing," and "Coucou." Each scent represented a blend of artistry and innovation, reflecting Lanselle’s commitment to excellence and their ability to adapt and thrive even in challenging times.

Lanselle Parfumeur’s distinguished array of fragrances, celebrated for their elegance and innovation, faced an untimely end when the company succumbed to bankruptcy in 1950. Despite the high regard in which Lanselle’s creations were held, financial difficulties led to the closure of the company.

In a significant turn of events, Lanselle's perfume portfolio was acquired by Les Parfums Verchère, a division of Parfums Jerome. This acquisition marked a new chapter for the Lanselle brand’s legacy, as the renowned scents were integrated into Verchère’s offerings. Although Lanselle's original operations ceased, its fragrances continued to captivate and inspire within the broader framework of Parfums Jerome, preserving the essence of Lanselle’s craftsmanship and maintaining its place in the perfume world’s storied history.

Perfumes:

Lanselle Parfumeur's early fragrances showcased a playful and intriguing connection to the world of card games, with names like Banco, Sans Atout (No Trump), Forcing, and Martingale. Each of these terms carries specific meanings within the realm of card games, infusing the perfumes with an air of strategy and sophistication.

Serie des As Presentation:

One of Lanselle's most popular presentations, titled "Série des As" or "Les 4 As"—meaning "Series of Aces" or "The 4 Aces"—featured four perfumes named after the suits in a deck of cards: Coeur (Heart), Trefle (Clover), Carreau (Diamond), and Pique (Spade). This collection likely symbolized the versatility and range of the brand's offerings, with each fragrance embodying the unique characteristics of its suit. Coeur might have been a romantic and tender scent, Trefle a fresh and green aroma, Carreau sparkling and precious, and Pique bold and striking.

Another noteworthy presentation was "Les 5 Extraits de Luxe - Bridge," which translated to "The 5 Luxury Extracts - Bridge." This collection likely catered to those who appreciated the elegance and social finesse of the card game Bridge. Each fragrance within this set would have been crafted to embody the luxurious and strategic nature of the game, offering a sophisticated olfactory experience.

Through these card game-inspired names, Lanselle Parfumeur not only paid homage to the art of perfumery but also to the strategic and refined nature of classic card games. These perfumes invited wearers to immerse themselves in a world where luxury, strategy, and elegance intertwined seamlessly.

Banco:

Banco is a term commonly associated with betting games, particularly in Baccarat. It represents a bold move, where a player bets all their money, signifying a high-stakes gamble. In the context of fragrances, the name Banco conveys a sense of luxury and daring—an olfactory experience for those who embrace life with boldness. The name "Banco," which translates to "bank" in English, reflects the perfume’s essence of grandeur and risk.

The fragrance itself is a striking composition that opens with a delicate, floral bouquet, offering a light and fresh introduction. This initial floral impression is designed to capture attention with its elegance and refinement. As the perfume develops, it transitions into a deep, sophisticated leather base, providing a robust and memorable finish. The contrast between the airy florals and the rich leather creates a complex and intriguing scent profile, embodying a unique blend of grace and strength. Banco stands out as a fragrance that not only makes a statement but also appeals to those who appreciate a sophisticated and bold scent experience.

Sans Atout:

Sans Atout, translating to "No Trump," refers to a card game situation where no suit is designated as the trump, making the game more challenging and strategic. This name could suggest a perfume with a refined and balanced composition, where no single note dominates, but rather, all elements blend harmoniously, reflecting elegance and complexity.

Martingale:

Martingale draws its name from a well-known betting strategy where one doubles their wager after each loss in hopes of eventually recovering losses and making a profit. This term evokes a sense of strategic depth and complexity, which is reflected in the fragrance’s character.

Martingale, aptly named after this gamble-driven tactic, is a warm floral chypre that embodies layers of richness and allure. The fragrance opens with the exotic and creamy scent of ylang-ylang, adding a touch of tropical sophistication. This is masterfully layered over a classic chypre base, which includes elements such as oakmoss and patchouli, creating a complex and multifaceted aroma. The interplay of the lush ylang-ylang with the deep, woody undertones mirrors the strategic unfolding of a well-calculated plan, revealing its full brilliance over time. Martingale’s composition hints at both risk and reward, offering a scent experience that evolves with depth and intrigue.

Forcing:

Forcing, a name inspired by a strategic bid in the card game bridge that compels a specific response, embodies a fragrance that mirrors its namesake's depth and complexity. This perfume presents a lush, sweet floral bouquet at its core, harmoniously blending the soft, powdery notes of heliotrope with the creamy, comforting aroma of rose and the subtly earthy undertones of valerian. These floral elements are beautifully balanced by a sophisticated chypre base, which adds a layer of richness and depth. The base notes of oakmoss provide a green, woody undertone, while civet imparts a warm, animalic nuance. Together, they ground the fragrance with an earthy, bold edge that counterpoints the initial sweetness, creating a scent that is both alluring and intriguingly complex. Forcing thus offers a captivating olfactory experience, combining floral sweetness with a deep, sophisticated foundation.

Coucou:

Coucou, named after the French word for both "Hello" and the cuckoo bird, was developed with the American market in mind. This perfume is characterized as a warm oriental fragrance, suggesting a rich and enveloping scent profile. The composition features the lush, opulent notes of jasmine and rose, which combine to create a warm and inviting aroma. Jasmine adds a sweet, exotic touch, while rose brings a classic, romantic elegance, resulting in a fragrance that feels both sophisticated and comforting.  Its warm oriental notes evoking Arabian scents, presented in a striking avant-garde bottle that caught the attention of Anglo-Saxon clientele.

The bottle design adds to the allure of Coucou. Molded in the shape of a whimsical tree, it is adorned with feather plumes that evoke the image of a fanciful cuckoo bird. This imaginative design not only captures the essence of the name but also enhances the sensory experience associated with the perfume. Complementing the unique bottle, the packaging, designed by F. Guerycolas, features a charming and artistic presentation that aligns perfectly with the enchanting theme of the fragrance.

Valenciennes:

The perfume bottle for Valenciennes stands out as one of the most exquisite creations from the house. Crafted from satin glass, its design captures an elegant and refined aesthetic. The bottle is molded with intricate waves and flags, which lend a sense of movement and grace to its form. Its footed vase-like shape, combined with a flat, disk-shaped stopper, creates a harmonious balance between sophistication and functionality.

Although the exact manufacturer remains unknown, the bottle's quality suggests a craftsmanship akin to that of Verrières de la Bresle, renowned for its luxurious glasswork. The satin glass finish adds a soft, lustrous sheen, enhancing the bottle's visual appeal and emphasizing its high-end nature. This meticulous attention to detail and design solidifies the Valenciennes bottle as a true testament to the artistry of perfume packaging.

Men's Fragrances:

Lanselle Parfumeur introduced several notable men's fragrances, each characterized by its distinct and sophisticated appeal. L'Écusson Bleu (Blue Crest) is a refined eau de cologne with a prominent lavender base. Lavender, known for its fresh and calming scent, forms the cornerstone of this fragrance, imparting a clean and invigorating aroma. The blue crest in its name evokes a sense of tradition and elegance, reflecting the classic sophistication of the scent.

In contrast, L'Écusson Or (Gold Crest) offers a more opulent experience. The gold crest symbolizes luxury and prestige, which is mirrored in the fragrance's composition. While the specific notes of L'Écusson Or are less detailed, its name suggests a richer, possibly more complex profile compared to its counterpart. This fragrance likely combines refined and warm notes, creating an aura of sophistication and distinction. Both scents embody Lanselle's commitment to crafting high-quality, elegant perfumes for men.

Powders:

In addition to their distinguished collection of perfumes, Lanselle Parfumeur also ventured into the realm of cosmetics with their face powder, known as Poudre de Lanselle. This face powder was available in fourteen distinct shades, catering to a wide range of skin tones and preferences. Each shade was meticulously formulated to offer a flawless finish, complementing the brand’s commitment to elegance and refinement.

The Poudre de Lanselle was likely infused with the subtle and alluring fragrances that characterized Lanselle's perfume line. This added a touch of olfactory luxury to the product, enhancing the overall sensory experience. By incorporating their signature scents into the face powder, Lanselle ensured that their cosmetics were not only visually appealing but also harmoniously scented, aligning with their reputation for sophistication and quality.

List of perfumes of Lanselle:

• 1932 Sans Àtout
• 1932 Trèfle
• 1932 Carreau
• 1932 Piquè
• 1932 Cœur
• 1932 Banco 
• 1939 Coucou
• 1940 Valenciennes
• 1940 Victoire
• 1941 Forcing
• 1941 Martingale 

Les Parfums Verchère

Les Parfums Verchère, established in Clichy, France, in 1947, was a distinguished division of Parfums Jerome. Operating from their headquarters at 56 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, this fragrance house made its mark during the 1940s and 1950s. They launched a range of perfumes that reflected the elegance and sophistication of post-war Parisian fragrance trends.

In addition to their own creations, Les Parfums Verchère was associated with Parfums Lanselle. Following Lanselle's decline, Verchère acquired the brand, incorporating some of Lanselle’s notable fragrances into their own portfolio. This strategic move allowed Verchère to build on the legacy of Lanselle while introducing these classic scents under their new label. The resulting collection combined the innovation of Verchère with the timeless appeal of Lanselle, offering a sophisticated selection of perfumes that appealed to a discerning clientele.

Les Parfums Verchère, active in the mid-20th century, launched a notable collection of fragrances, each offering a distinct olfactory experience. Here’s a closer look at their perfumes, translating their French names and exploring their potential scent profiles:

Désormais: Translating to "From Now On," Désormais likely represented a bold and forward-looking fragrance. This perfume might have featured a blend of classic and contemporary notes, capturing the essence of a new era. Expect a sophisticated composition, possibly incorporating fresh, floral elements with a refined base of woody or musky undertones, reflecting a sense of modern elegance.

Paddy: Named after the Irish term, Paddy could evoke the earthy and invigorating scents associated with the Irish countryside. This fragrance might have featured green, herbal notes like clover or moss, paired with a hint of spice or freshness to create a lively and energetic aroma.

Toast: Toast suggests a warm, inviting fragrance, perhaps reminiscent of the comforting scent of freshly toasted bread. This perfume could combine rich, toasty notes with sweet, buttery undertones, evoking a sense of warmth and coziness.

Jérôme: Named after a classic French name, Jérôme may have offered a timeless and refined scent. Expect a blend of sophisticated floral notes with a subtle hint of spice or woods, creating a balanced and elegant fragrance suitable for various occasions.

Piqué de Lanselle: Translating to "Lanselle’s Spade," Piqué might have been inspired by the card suit symbol. This perfume could feature bold and distinctive notes, such as deep, smoky woods or rich, spicy elements, reflecting the strength and complexity associated with the spade symbol.

Valenciennes de Lanselle: Valenciennes suggests a refined and possibly floral fragrance, named after the French town known for its lace. This perfume might have combined delicate floral notes with soft, creamy undertones, evoking elegance and sophistication.

Vaudeville: Named after the theatrical genre, Vaudeville might have been a lively and entertaining fragrance, characterized by a mix of vibrant and playful notes. Expect a blend of bright citrus or fruity elements with a touch of floral or spicy accents, creating a scent as dynamic and engaging as the performances it’s named after.

Banco de Lanselle: Banco translates to "Bank," suggesting a luxurious and high-stakes fragrance. This perfume likely combined a floral opening with a rich, leather base, creating a scent that is both bold and sophisticated—a fragrance for those who appreciate opulence and refinement.

Braconnage: Meaning "Poaching," Braconnage might evoke the earthy, wild scents of nature. This fragrance could feature deep, woody, and herbal notes, possibly with a touch of smokiness or musk, reflecting the untamed and adventurous spirit of its name.

Carreau de Lanselle: Translating to "Lanselle’s Diamond," Carreau suggests a luxurious and sparkling fragrance. Expect a blend of fresh, radiant notes like citrus or floral, with a rich, sophisticated base, evoking the brilliance and elegance associated with diamonds.

Cheek to Cheek: This playful and evocative name suggests a fragrance that is both intimate and charming. Cheek to Cheek might have featured soft, romantic notes such as rose and jasmine, blended with warm, sensual undertones, creating a scent that feels both affectionate and elegant.

Each of these perfumes from Les Parfums Verchère showcases the house's commitment to crafting distinctive and memorable fragrances, reflecting a range of olfactory experiences inspired by various themes and sentiments.

The perfumes of Verchère:

• 1945 Desormais
• 1945 Paddy
• 1945 Toast
• 1950 Jérôme
• 1950 Piquè de Lanselle
• 1950 Valenciennes de Lanselle
• 1950 Vaudeville
• 1953 Banco de Lanselle
• 1953 Braconnage
• 1953 Carreau de Lanselle
• 1957 Cheek to Cheek