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Sunday, February 8, 2015

J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche c1977

J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche: launched in 1977.  Created by Max Gavarry of IFF.

J'ai Ose, name means "I Dare" in French, was created by the designer Guy Laroche, promoted and marketed by the cosmetic company, Lancome, and backed by its parent, the giant French hair product and cosmetic multi-national, L'Oreal.

The Launch:


When the fragrance was launched in Paris, the bill amounted to $200,000. At that time, 1000 guests including Henri of Orléans, Comte de Paris, John Russell, 13th Duke of Bedford and his wife Nicole Russell, Duchess of Bedford, Japanese-Indonesian businesswoman/socialite Dewi Soekarno and Iran's Princess Soraya Esfandiari were entertained, grandly at the Paris theatre restaurant Paradis Latin.


The Australian launch of the fragrance was held at Sydney's Town Hall, and featured an exclusive dinner and fashion parade presentation for 500 lucky guests. The color theme, burgundy and purple, the colors of the perfume's packaging, was repeated in tablecloths, napkins, fresh orchids, and hand made kites playfully hung from the rafters.
 
Guests were entertained by strolling guitarists, a string ensemble and a 60 piece symphony orchestra as they ate French food, drank French champagne and watched three French girls model the latest collection of Guy Laroche, flown out from Paris for the night. The whole shebang cost $100,000 and included the cost of flying 200 cosmetic retailers and journalists to Sydney, and their accommodations. The food and drink bill was graciously paid by the charity, Friends of Odyssey, which sold tickets for the gala at $75 a head.

 
 

J'ai Ose was available in the following:
  • 0.25 oz Parfum
  • 0.50 oz Parfum
  • 1.0 oz Parfum
  • 0.17 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 0.38 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray
  • 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray
  • Dusting powder
  • Bath soap



Fragrance Composition:



So what does the original version smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. Warm florals of myrtle, jasmine and ylang ylang blended with rich spices enticingly melded with woods and ambers. 

It begins with a fruity, spicy top, followed by a woody floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base.
  • Top notes: galbanum, aldehydes, citrus oils, chamomile, coriander, and peach
  • Middle notes: myrtle, ylang ylang, cedar, clove, nutmeg, jasmine absolute, rose absolute, sandalwood, vetiver, orris
  • Base notes: vanilla, balm of Gilead, pimento, incense, olibanum, leather, Alpine oakmoss, ambergris, patchouli, Tibetan musk and benzoin

I purchased a vintage sample of the parfum and find that it is very green at first, lots of galbanum and oakmoss. An exuberant burst of aldehydes, zesty citrus and a fruity note of peach tickle my nose. Warm floral notes of jasmine and rose absolutes, punctuated by the spicy herbal fusion of coriander and chamomile. Soft hints of oriental woods, cedar and sandalwood, are layered over the dusty, earthy notes of vetiver and patchouli. Finally, traces of balsamic benzoin and powdery ambergris emerge from the animalic base of leather and musk. My overall impression is that this is an elegant and seamless blend, with the oakmoss remaining from beginning to end. Certainly a skin scent, not a loud, sillage monster.

Bottles:


The perfume was inspired by Menceau's interpretive sculpture of modern woman. Guy Laroche commissioned the sculptor Serge Mansau to do a fantasy bottle for his wicked perfume, J'ai Ose. The bottles were produced in France by both Saint Gobain Desjonqueres and Pochet et du Courval.

Mansau also designed a sterling silver pendant which was suspended from a black satin cord. It was made in a limited edition of only 499 copies 



Glass, 1989:
"A Silver Star, together with the Glass Manufacturers' Federation special award for the best glass container entry in Starpack, was won by the J'ai Ose atomiser marketed by Parfums Guy Laroche. This 25g  eau de toilette bottle was manufactured at Rockware's Nottingley factory in flint glass with white printing. The unusual spray through cap is in Bordeaux Red and completely conceals the neck."




Fate of the Fragrance:


The fragrance was reformulated and is now sold by Jai Ose Parfums Paris, not Guy Laroche. So, if you want the original vintage fragrance, be sure that the box says Guy Laroche on it.





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