Bakir by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1975, carries a name that evokes both mystery and richness. The word Bakir is Turkish for "copper," a metal known for its warmth, luster, and earthiness. The choice of this name is both exotic and meaningful, setting the tone for the fragrance's character. The imagery of copper—deep, burnished, and glowing—immediately conjures warmth and depth, mirroring the qualities of an oriental fragrance. The packaging, with its striking combination of copper and deep blue, complements the name, evoking a sense of elegance and sophistication. The contrast of these two colors suggests a balance between the grounded, earthy elements of copper and the expansive, mysterious qualities of the deep blue, possibly representing the sky or sea.
Bakir is a name that naturally evokes emotions of strength, sensuality, and exotic allure. Copper, with its ability to conduct heat, can be seen as a metaphor for the way this fragrance lingers warmly on the skin, radiating with subtle intensity. The name also suggests a connection to ancient traditions and craftsmanship, tying the fragrance to a sense of heritage and timelessness. In scent, Bakir would likely be interpreted as rich, warm, and slightly metallic, with layers of earthy and spicy notes that glow softly, like polished copper in candlelight.
The scent itself, classified as an oriental fragrance, opens with a spicy, fruity top. The initial burst of spice and fruit is likely to be both invigorating and inviting, drawing in the wearer with its lively and slightly exotic energy. As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a spicy floral bouquet, where the warmth of spices blends seamlessly with the softness of floral notes, creating a complex, feminine, yet bold experience. Finally, the base settles into a sensual, balsamic oriental composition, where deep resins and woods combine with warmth to leave a lasting, hauntingly exotic impression. The overall effect is earthy, sensual, and comforting, but with an undercurrent of mystery that lingers long after the initial spritz.
In the mid-1970s, women were navigating a time of cultural and social transformation, marked by increased independence, self-expression, and experimentation in fashion and beauty. A perfume like Bakir, with its bold name and exotic, warm scent profile, would have appealed to women who embraced their individuality and sought fragrances that stood out from the more delicate or traditional florals of earlier decades. The rich, oriental style of Bakir would have resonated with the era’s fascination with foreign cultures, adventure, and the allure of the unknown, themes that were often explored in fashion, music, and cinema at the time.
In line with other bold fragrances of the 1970s, Bakir embodied a sense of empowerment and sophistication, aligning with the decade’s growing trend of deeper, more intense scents that mirrored the dynamic changes in women’s roles and aspirations. The scent’s complexity and warmth would have made it the ideal choice for evening wear or any occasion where a woman wanted to feel confident, alluring, and distinct.
Cosmopolitan, 1975:
"The sensual East . . . exotic, heady, lush, mysterious . . . inspired Germaine Monteil's Bakir fragrance. Deep, earthy tones mingle with the most potent of perfume oils, the sweetest of flower scents. Result is very-pow! (Definitely not for the faint of heart) One ounce $60."
Fragrance Composition:
Press materials described the fragrance as an effort to combine the sensuality of Eastern perfumes and the sophistication of Western scents .It is composed of 170 essences. The top note is a bittersweet blend of herbs from Egypt and Africa and jonquils from high mountains of Asia. The middle note is earthy, ylang ylang and oil from flowers grown in Madagascar, plus cinnamon bark and sycamore wood. Root oils from Italy and Java. Flowers from the indonesian islands and the Alps. Leaves from the South of France. Oils from Nepal. Bark from Yugoslavia. Flowers from France add a very feminine note, and of course, the blending is superb.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a spicy, fruity top, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a sensual, balsamic oriental base. A warm, hauntingly exotic, earthy oriental.
- Top notes: Italian orange, aldehydes, spicy and fruity accord, Asian jonquil, Persian galbanum, raspberries, Moroccan labdanum, Italian bergamot and Grasse petitgrain
- Middle notes: Grasse heliotrope, Moroccan geranium, Alpine lavender, Zanzibar clove bud, cinnamon, Grasse rose, Riviera jasmine, Egyptian orange blossom, Madagascar ylang ylang, Javanese pimento and Sumatran nutmeg
- Base notes: Atlas cedar, Indonesian patchouli, Siamese benzoin, Somalian frankincense, ambergris, Sudanese myrrh, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, sycamore, Yugoslavian oakmoss
Scent Profile:
As you encounter Bakir, the initial impression is a rush of warmth and intensity, conjured by a complex, bittersweet blend. The sharp brightness of Italian orange immediately grabs your attention, mingling with the airy, clean presence of aldehydes. A spicy and fruity accord dances alongside, evoking the ripeness of sun-soaked fruits kissed by Mediterranean breezes.
The floral, earthy notes of jonquil, handpicked from the high mountains of Asia, lend a bittersweet, green freshness, while Persian galbanum, rich and resinous, adds depth. Tart and juicy raspberries briefly flicker, providing a playful, sweet twist before the warmth of Moroccan labdanum and the zest of Italian bergamot ground the top in rich earthiness. The touch of Grasse petitgrain – with its citrus and green leaf facets – brings a crisp yet soft edge, leading into a more intricate story of spice and florals.
The heart of Bakir is an intricate bouquet that unfolds like a flower in bloom. The soft, powdery heliotrope from Grasse fills the air with its comforting vanilla-almond scent, providing a smooth, mellow backdrop for the bright, slightly minty freshness of Moroccan geranium and the herbal-laced, aromatic notes of Alpine lavender.
Zanzibar clove bud, with its spicy sweetness, mingles harmoniously with cinnamon bark, which offers a warm, cozy kick. The floral richness deepens with the luxurious softness of Grasse rose and Riviera jasmine, their sweet, heady aromas unfolding one petal at a time. Egyptian orange blossom adds a honeyed, citrusy brightness, while the exotic, creamy ylang-ylang from Madagascar brings an intoxicating richness. A touch of Javanese pimento and Sumatran nutmeg offers sharp, fiery spice, adding layers of warmth and complexity to the floral heart.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a sensual, resinous depth, resonating with the true essence of an oriental scent. The soft, woody aroma of Atlas cedar anchors the scent, intertwined with the earthy richness of Indonesian patchouli, which imparts a dark, moist, and earthy tone. Siamese benzoin adds a sweet, balsamic touch, while Somalian frankincense offers its smoky, resinous signature that evokes ancient rituals.
Ambergris lends a warm, oceanic depth, softening into the dry, spicy richness of Sudanese myrrh. Tibetan musk weaves a soft animalic sensuality through the base, while Mysore sandalwood’s creamy, velvety smoothness wraps the fragrance in an exotic warmth. The scent is grounded by Yugoslavian oakmoss, with its forest-like, earthy bitterness, and sycamore wood, which brings a unique, slightly spicy and leathery nuance, tying all elements together into an intricate, long-lasting oriental dream.
Bakir's blend of 170 essences, sourced from across the globe, creates a mesmerizing journey. It marries the opulence and mystery of Eastern perfumery with the refined elegance of the West, lingering with a sophisticated warmth that is both haunting and deeply sensual. Each ingredient, from the remote mountains of Asia to the verdant fields of Grasse, contributes to this evocative experience.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Bakir, a fragrance that once captivated with its exotic blend of over 170 essences, was discontinued at an unknown date, leaving many perfume lovers searching for its hauntingly sensual and warm presence. As of 1984, it was still available, a testament to its lasting appeal and the allure of its oriental complexity. However, over time, as with many niche fragrances, Bakir quietly faded from shelves, slipping into the annals of perfume history. Its discontinuation marked the end of an era where intricate compositions like Bakir stood as bridges between the rich sensuality of Eastern perfumery and the polished sophistication of Western scent artistry.
In the 2000s, Irma Shorell, Inc. took on the ambitious task of reviving Bakir by introducing their "version" of the beloved fragrance. Despite their efforts, many reviewers noted that while the inspiration was apparent, the recreated scent fell short of truly capturing the essence of the original. Perfume enthusiasts described the reformulation as a shadow of its former self, missing the complexity and depth that made Bakir so unique. The rich interplay of spices, florals, and woods that once transported wearers to distant lands was noticeably altered, leading to a scent that, though reminiscent of its inspiration, could not match the magic of the original composition. For many, the reformulated version was simply not the same—a sentiment often echoed in the world of discontinued fragrances, where the subtle nuances of the original ingredients and craftsmanship can rarely be fully replicated.
Bakir was a favorite of mine from the start. i remember wearing it to work (back in the days when no one cared about chemical sensitivity). one of my male co-workers walked into my office, froze, and said "it smells like we should turn out the lights." although that might seem inappropriate today, he was an innocent and just said what he was thinking. The reformulated version is not quite as impressive as the original, but still imparts the same sensuality.
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