Nombre Noir by Shiseido was launched in 1982, a time marked by bold expressions and the flourishing of avant-garde culture. The early 1980s were characterized by a blend of flamboyant styles, from the vibrant aesthetics of the disco era to the emerging sophistication of new wave and punk movements. This period saw a surge in artistic experimentation, with designers and creators pushing boundaries in fashion, music, and visual arts. Against this backdrop, Shiseido introduced Nombre Noir, a perfume that embodied the era's daring spirit.
"Nombre Noir" translates to "Black Number" in French. The choice of French for the name reflects the language's historical association with luxury, elegance, and high fashion, making it a fitting choice for a premium fragrance. The term "Black Number" carries a sense of mystery and intrigue, qualities that are often sought after in the world of perfumery. The color black itself is synonymous with sophistication, depth, and timeless allure, further enhancing the perfume's appeal.
The name "Nombre Noir" is a compelling choice for a perfume. It conjures images of sophistication and enigma, aligning perfectly with the artistic direction led by Yusui Kumai and Serge Lutens, with the perfume crafted by Jean-Yves Leroy. The name suggests a sense of exclusivity and complexity, inviting curiosity and a desire to uncover the secrets within the fragrance. For the women of the time, a perfume named "Nombre Noir" would evoke a blend of modernity and classic elegance, appealing to those who embraced the bold yet refined trends of the early 1980s.
Background:
Nombre Noir was conceived at the behest of Shiseido, marking a significant milestone in the perfume industry. Serge Lutens was given unprecedented creative freedom, with no restrictions imposed on him during the development of this fragrance. This complete autonomy allowed Lutens to oversee every aspect of the perfume’s creation, from its initial conception to its commercialization. It was a rare opportunity for a creator to control a product from A to Z, ensuring that every element reflected his vision.
Lutens not only crafted the fragrance itself but also played a pivotal role in designing the packaging, an aspect that became integral to Nombre Noir's identity. This comprehensive involvement in both the olfactory and visual elements of the perfume was groundbreaking at the time. Lutens' ability to invent "le jus du parfum," or the essence of the perfume, showcased his deep understanding and mastery of the art of perfumery. The freedom to innovate in both scent and design allowed him to create a perfume that was both aesthetically and artistically cohesive, setting a new standard in the industry for creator-driven projects.
In Julie Gabriel's book, The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic, Serge Lutens reflects on the creation of Nombre Noir, his first perfume, launched in 1982. Lutens recounts how the innovative black-on-black packaging of Nombre Noir initiated a small revolution in the world of perfumery. By stripping away the gold plating, decorations, and lavish ornaments that had come to dominate the industry, Lutens aimed to refocus attention on the essence of the fragrance itself rather than superficial embellishments. He believed that black packaging evoked a powerful emotion, ultimately becoming a classic design choice.
Lutens designed Nombre Noir to create a striking contrast: the dark, minimalist exterior contained a fragrance based on the delicate aroma of white flowers. This juxtaposition highlighted Lutens' evolving tastes in perfumes and his desire to challenge conventional norms. Reflecting on his career, Lutens notes that his tastes in perfumes were still developing at the time of Nombre Noir's creation. However, by 1992, he had sparked another revolution with the launch of Feminite du Bois. This groundbreaking fragrance, a feminine perfume based on traditionally masculine cedar, became legendary, cementing Lutens' reputation as a visionary in the perfumery world.
"My first perfume was Nombre Noir , created in 1982. At the time, the black-on-black packaging had created a small revolution in the world of perfumery. My idea was to remove gold plating, decorations, and all those lavish ornaments that made me feel perfumery was becoming fake and more about the embellishment than the scents. Black packaging creates and emotion, and today has become a classic design. The juice in itself - to create a contrast - was based on an aroma of white flowers. At that time, my tastes in perfumes were not well. Yet, ten years later, in 1992, a new revolution occurred, this time olfactive, with the launching of Feminite du Bois, a feminine perfume based on masculine cedar. This perfume became a legend."
Serge Lutens' philosophy on perfume transcends conventional marketing and consumerism. "Perfume is an essence; it is the seventh sense; it is not a system of consummation," he asserts, emphasizing the intrinsic value and sensory experience of fragrance. Lutens rejects the notion of perfume as merely a product to be consumed, packaged, and sold based on socio-cultural identities or aspirational lifestyles. Instead, he views perfume as an art form, an essence that taps into a deeper, almost instinctual part of human perception.
"Perfume is an essence; it is the seventh sense; it is not a system of consummation," said Serge Lutens. "Here it is not marketing, only the selling of perfume. We expose people to odors. We give them, if you like, the taste of perfume. We don't make socio-cultural perfume; you know, "if you buy this bottle, you are la femme sexy; if you buy that one, la femme active." Here we sell perfume. We explain perfume. We teach perfume."
In Lutens' approach, the focus is on exposing people to the pure olfactory experience. He believes in "giving them the taste of perfume," offering an authentic encounter with scent that goes beyond commercial constructs. This perspective is rooted in the idea that perfume should not be reduced to a tool for projecting a particular image, such as "la femme sexy" or "la femme active." Instead, it should be appreciated and understood for its own sake. Lutens and his team strive to explain and teach perfume, fostering an appreciation for its complexities and nuances. By doing so, they aim to cultivate a deeper connection between individuals and the fragrances they wear, elevating the experience from mere consumption to an artful engagement with the senses.
Serge Lutens, reflecting on the creation of Nombre Noir, emphasized the meticulous process and dedication required to achieve perfection. He revealed that the perfume was formulated in France and took two years to perfect. This lengthy development period underscores Lutens' commitment to quality and his willingness to invest significant time and effort into his creations. His statement, "I can be extremely patient. If something is right, I can wait," highlights his belief that true artistry cannot be rushed.
Lutens' patience and insistence on perfection are indicative of his broader approach to perfumery, where every detail is meticulously considered and refined. This dedication to excellence ensured that Nombre Noir emerged as a groundbreaking fragrance, characterized by its unique composition and innovative packaging. The two-year development process allowed Lutens and his team to experiment, refine, and ultimately craft a scent that stood out in the competitive world of luxury perfumery. His patient approach reflects a deep respect for the craft and a desire to create something enduring and exceptional, rather than simply following market trends or rushing to meet commercial deadlines.
The term "Nombre Noir" evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. It suggests a world of dark elegance, where sophistication meets mystery. The name brings to mind the sleek lines and dramatic contrasts of contemporary art, the allure of a moonlit night, and the quiet power of an elegantly dressed woman commanding attention in a crowded room. Emotions associated with this name include intrigue, confidence, and a sense of timeless beauty.
Nombre Noir stands out as a unique name for a perfume. Unlike traditional floral or romantic names, it offers a modern twist, appealing to a sense of adventure and depth. It suggests a narrative, inviting the wearer to become part of a story that is both modern and timeless. The interpretation of "Nombre Noir" would be multifaceted, seen as both a nod to the elegance of the past and a bold step into the future. The name encapsulates the essence of a fragrance that is as complex and captivating as the era it was born in.
Launch:
Nombre Noir by Shiseido was first launched in France, a strategic decision that aligned with the country's long-standing reputation as the epicenter of haute couture and luxury perfumery. This launch in the heart of the perfume world helped establish Nombre Noir's credibility and prestige. The fragrance was met with critical acclaim, culminating in its receipt of the Grand Prix from the French Association of Perfumers. This prestigious award highlighted the perfume's exceptional quality and innovative composition, crafted by Jean-Yves Leroy under the artistic direction of Yusui Kumai and Serge Lutens. Following its success in France, Nombre Noir was introduced to the Japanese market, where it continued to captivate with its sophisticated allure and enigmatic charm, reinforcing Shiseido's commitment to blending Eastern and Western influences in their creations.
Women of the early 1980s, influenced by the era's dynamic culture, would likely have responded to Nombre Noir with enthusiasm. The name alone would evoke images of chic, urban sophistication, resonating with the fashion-forward individuals of the time. The fragrance would be seen as an accessory that complements the powerful and confident personas women were increasingly adopting. It would appeal to those who valued both style and substance, looking for a scent that could make a statement as bold as their fashion choices.
Marketing:
Serge Lutens was deeply involved in every aspect of the creation of Nombre Noir, extending far beyond merely formulating the fragrance. He designed the bottle, supervised its packaging, and managed the advertising imagery and its layout. To create the iconic promotional photograph, Lutens undertook a meticulous and creative project.
He first purchased fabric and collaborated with a seamstress to craft a dress. He then constructed two trestles and cut a board to use as a backdrop. The trestles were set up in the studio and covered with white to create a neutral background for the shoot. Suzanne, the chosen model, underwent more than six hours of preparation, including makeup and hairstyling, before slipping into a cutout in the board. Lutens then draped the dress around her, layer by layer, with meticulous care.
To secure the dress in place, he used candle wax, which he sanded and repainted in black to achieve the desired effect. This painstaking process required over half a day’s work, during which Suzanne remained perfectly still and upright under the studio lights. This detailed effort allowed Lutens to capture a powerful image that reflected the aesthetic of Nombre Noir, showcasing his complete dedication to every element of the creative process.
Once the series of photos was completed—just a dozen images in total—the model was finally able to free herself from the constraints of the setup. She carefully extricated herself from the cutout in the board, beneath the trestles. The process had been demanding and required her to remain perfectly still for an extended period, but with the final images captured, she could now step out of the makeshift rig that had held her in place throughout the shoot.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, fruity note, bergamot, marjoram, coriander and rosewood
- Middle notes: osmanthus, Damascus rose, geranium, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orris root, carnation and lily of the valley
- Base notes: amber, musk, honey, sandalwood, vetiver, benzoin and tonka bean
Scent Story:
In the dimly lit confines of a studio, the air is charged with a blend of anticipation and creative energy as the final touches are applied to the scene for Nombre Noir’s photography session. The space is both stark and luxurious, dominated by a dramatic contrast of black. Two models—one Caucasian and one Japanese—are adorned in flowing black gowns that cascade around them like pools of ink. Their makeup, meticulously crafted by Serge Lutens himself, evokes the ethereal and enigmatic allure of kabuki theater. The models’ faces are painted with striking precision: their features accentuated with bold lines and subtle glows, creating a mesmerizing effect that complements the deep, dark theme of the fragrance.
As the camera shutters click, capturing the elegance and tension of the moment, your senses are enveloped in the complex tapestry of Nombre Noir’s scent. The top notes introduce an aldehydic flowery breeze, which mingles with a hint of fruity freshness, the tang of bergamot, and the earthy spice of marjoram and coriander. The aroma is rich and invigorating, a prelude to the deeper notes that lie beneath.
The sight before you is one of stark beauty: the black glass bottle of Nombre Noir, an embodiment of sophistication and mystery. Its sleek, squat form reflects light with an almost imperceptible sheen, contrasting the matte black of the background and the glossy finish of the models' gowns. The bottle’s surface, etched with subtle lettering, catches the light just enough to highlight its elegance, creating a captivating interplay between gloss and matte.
The fragrance’s heart reveals itself as the aldehydic veil begins to lift, giving way to a lush floral bouquet. The opulent notes of osmanthus and Damascus rose unfurl, mingling with the aromatic warmth of geranium, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. There is an underlying sense of floral complexity, each note blending seamlessly into the next, with the orris root and carnation adding depth and texture. The scent is both rich and soft, like a velvety embrace.
As you savor the fragrance, there is a subtle sweetness on your palate—an essence of honey that hints at the base notes yet to come. The richness of amber, musk, and sandalwood anchors the composition, blending with the grounding earthy tones of vetiver and benzoin. The fragrance finishes with a warm, powdery undertone from the tonka bean, leaving a lasting impression of both sensuality and sophistication.
In the studio, the atmosphere is filled with the faint hum of the camera’s motor and the occasional rustle of fabric as the models shift to find the perfect pose. There is a sense of meticulous calm and focused intensity, with each movement carefully orchestrated to enhance the visual and sensory impact of the shoot. The touch of the models’ gowns is smooth and luxurious, their fabric flowing and whispering with every subtle movement. The texture of the black gown contrasts with the smooth, cool surface of the black glass bottle, creating a tactile experience that mirrors the fragrance’s own contrasts.
The entire scene is a harmonious blend of sight, scent, and sound, capturing the essence of Nombre Noir in its most exquisite form. The fragrance, with its rich blend of aldehydic florals and deep, powdery base, is both an olfactory and visual masterpiece, representing the pinnacle of Serge Lutens’ artistic vision.
Bottles:
Nombre Noir was housed in a distinctive squat jet black glass bottle, adapted from an antique Chinese snuff bottle, whose sleek lines and minimalist design evoke the elegance of the Art Deco style. The bottle itself was a testament to Serge Lutens' revolutionary vision for perfumery, characterized by a departure from the opulent and often gaudy packaging that dominated the industry at the time. Lutens' concept was to strip away unnecessary embellishments, focusing instead on the purity and sophistication of the black design. This approach not only challenged traditional notions of luxury but also created a powerful visual identity that set Nombre Noir apart.
According to a 1983 article in Le Nouveau F, "Nombre Noir, created by Serge Lutens for Shiseido. In response to fakes and false luxury, a perfume with chypre notes in packaging in the image of its creator (395 francs for the average bottle)." This description highlights Lutens' intent to combat the superficiality he perceived in the luxury market. The perfume's chypre notes and the bold black packaging were designed to reflect authenticity and substance, aligning with Lutens' artistic ethos.
From Shiseido's perspective, Nombre Noir was a fragrance that showcased Serge Lutens as both the creator and the image behind the product. Lutens believed that black was the ultimate color because it encompasses all other colors, leading to a design that was entirely black. The black cap and glass bottle, with sandblast-etched lettering, created a striking contrast between gloss and matte finishes, enhancing the bottle's allure. Lutens explained, "At the time, the black-on-black packaging had created a small revolution in the world of perfumery. My idea was to remove gold plating, decorations, and all those lavish ornaments that made me feel perfumery was becoming fake and more about the embellishment than the scents. Black packaging creates an emotion, and today has become a classic design."
Lutens' philosophy and innovative design not only transformed the presentation of perfumes but also redefined luxury in the industry. The Nombre Noir bottle, with its Art Deco influences and monochromatic aesthetic, remains an iconic example of how packaging can evoke emotion and complement the essence of the fragrance it contains.
Nombre Noir was available in the following:
- 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
- 0.5 oz Parfum Splash
The Eau de Parfum bottles are of clear glass with black caps.
- 0.13 oz Eau de Parfum Splash miniature
- 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Splash
- 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
Fate of the Fragrance:
Nombre Noir, despite its critical acclaim and innovative design, was discontinued sometime between 1993 and 1995 due to marketing and distribution challenges. This decision marked an abrupt end to a fragrance that had initially promised to redefine luxury perfumery through its minimalist aesthetic and unique composition. The discontinuation of Nombre Noir highlights the often harsh realities of the perfume industry, where even the most groundbreaking creations can struggle against logistical and commercial barriers.
In a 2000 interview with L'Express, Serge Lutens reflected on his experience with Nombre Noir, expressing a sense of unfulfilled vision. He stated, "Taken in a sinuosity of prohibitions, I did not succeed with Nombre Noir, my first perfume, to affirm what I wanted to say." This introspective statement reveals Lutens' deep frustration with the constraints he encountered during the perfume's creation and subsequent marketing. Despite the innovative nature of Nombre Noir and its critical success, Lutens felt that various obstacles—commercial, regulatory, or personal—prevented him from fully realizing his artistic vision.
The "sinuosity of prohibitions" Lutens mentioned suggests a complex interplay of factors that hindered his ability to achieve a pure expression of his creative intentions. This candid admission underscores the challenges faced by artists in balancing their creative ideals with external pressures and expectations. Lutens' experience with Nombre Noir serves as a poignant reminder of the difficulties in navigating the commercial landscape while striving to maintain artistic integrity. Despite these challenges, Lutens' dedication to his craft and his innovative approach to perfumery have left an indelible mark on the industry.
Despite its discontinuation, Nombre Noir continues to captivate a very loyal following. Over the years, as existing stock has dwindled, a fervent scramble has emerged among its devoted users. When a bottle of Nombre Noir surfaces at auction, it instantly transforms into a highly coveted treasure, driving prices to skyrocket. Sellers on various platforms often set exorbitant asking prices, making the perfume increasingly inaccessible to many. This phenomenon reflects the stark contrast between the initial vision of creating a unique and emotionally resonant fragrance and its current status as a luxury commodity reserved for the wealthy elite. The escalating prices are seen by many as unnecessary and prohibitive, overshadowing the fundamental purpose of perfume—to be enjoyed by all, transcending socioeconomic boundaries. The legacy of Nombre Noir, therefore, remains a bittersweet testament to its enduring allure and the challenges of preserving artistic integrity in a commercialized world.
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