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Monday, March 6, 2023

Amadis by Pierre Cardin c1958

Amadis by Pierre Cardin was launched in 1958. The name "Amadis" is derived from the romantic medieval French legends, particularly from the character Amadis de Gaulle. Additionally, "Amadis" is also a fashion term referring to a type of tight-fitting sleeve. It's interesting to see how the perfume's name draws inspiration from both literature and fashion.


Pierre Cardin was a prominent French fashion designer who revolutionized the fashion industry with his avant-garde designs and visionary approach to fashion marketing and branding. He was born on July 2, 1922, in San Biagio di Callalta, Italy, but moved to France as a child.

Cardin began his career working for renowned fashion houses such as Paquin and Schiaparelli before establishing his own fashion label in 1950. He gained fame for his futuristic and geometric designs, often incorporating new materials and unconventional shapes into his clothing.

One of Cardin's significant contributions to fashion was his democratization of haute couture. He was among the first designers to license his name for products outside of the traditional fashion realm, including accessories, fragrances, and home goods. This move made his brand accessible to a wider audience and laid the foundation for the modern fashion business model.

Throughout his career, Cardin received numerous awards and accolades for his contributions to fashion and design. He remained an influential figure in the industry until his passing on December 29, 2020, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and creativity that continues to inspire designers today.

Pierre Cardin was not only a renowned fashion designer but also made significant contributions to the fragrance industry. Pierre Cardin's first scents, Suite Seize and Amadis, launched in the late 1950s, were selling well by 1964. They were part of his successful ventures into the fragrance industry, which became a significant aspect of his fashion empire. Suite Seize and Amadis likely contributed to his brand's growing popularity and success during that period.


Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris, 1964:
"Pierre Cardin perfumes women with its latest "Amadis", a marvelous aroma and the Société Européenne de Distribution (Perfume Pierre Cardin Kay Mannson beauty products) informs us that it has just concluded an agreement with Mrs. Anna Pegova whose products of beauty are famous." 


It seems that in 1964, Pierre Cardin was making significant strides in the perfume industry, particularly with the release of his latest fragrance, "Amadis." The quote from Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris highlights the allure of the "Amadis" scent, describing it as marvelous. Additionally, it mentions an agreement between the Société Européenne de Distribution (which distributed Pierre Cardin perfumes, including Kay Mannson beauty products) and Mrs. Anna Pegova, a well-known figure in the beauty industry. This collaboration likely expanded the distribution of Pierre Cardin's beauty products, further solidifying his presence in the market.


Neath Guardian, 1962:
"Two new French perfumes called Amadis and Suite 16 - the first to come from the fashion house of Pierre Cardin - are now available in the United Kingdom. Amadis - a name taken from medieval French romance - is a delicate floral perfume, which gives its true fragrance as soon as it is worn. Suite 16 is exotic and sophisticated, with a musky mellow tone which emerges a few minutes after application. Both are available in 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, 1 oz and 2 oz bottles, plus a 1/6 oz size in the form of a suede handbag pochette. Matching toilet water - Eau de Cardin - is available in three sides for each perfume. A range of Pierre Cardin lipsticks is also introduced, consisting of 12 standard and three mother of pearl shades. All are lightly perfumed and of a fine, smooth texture. Based on French fashion colours, the range includes a number of apricot, bronze, and clear red shades which are expected to be popular here this winter. Numbers are used instead of names."


The Neath Guardian article from 1962 provides a detailed description of the two new French perfumes, Amadis and Suite 16, which were the first fragrances to be released by the fashion house of Pierre Cardin. Here's a breakdown of the information provided:

Amadis:

  • Named after medieval French romance.
  • Described as a delicate floral perfume that reveals its true fragrance once worn.
  • Available in various bottle sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz, as well as a smaller 1/6 oz size in the form of a suede handbag pochette.
  • Accompanied by matching toilet water known as Eau de Cardin, available in three sizes for each perfume.


Suite 16:

  • Characterized as exotic and sophisticated, with a musky mellow tone emerging a few minutes after application.
  • Like Amadis, available in various bottle sizes and accompanied by matching Eau de Cardin in three sizes.


Pierre Cardin Lipsticks:

  • Introduced alongside the perfumes, consisting of 12 standard shades and three mother of pearl shades.
  • Lightly perfumed and of fine, smooth texture.
  • The range includes shades inspired by French fashion colors, such as apricot, bronze, and clear red, which were expected to be popular during that winter season.
  • Instead of names, the lipsticks are identified by numbers.


This detailed description offers insight into the fragrance offerings and cosmetic products launched by Pierre Cardin's fashion house in 1962, showcasing a blend of elegance, sophistication, and innovation in both scent and makeup.


House & Garden - Volume 129, 1966:
"Amadis or Suite 16 by Pierre Cardin, $ 11.50 per oz."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was a floral fragrance for women. Tender, delicate Amadis, soft as candle glow. Young, warm. Amadis is a sweetly delicate fresh light floral fantasy perfume, which gives its true fragrance as soon as it is worn. Has almost an oriental subtlety about it.  Based on almond blossom, jasmine and rose.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lily of the valley, almond, lemon, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom
  • Base notes: amber, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin


Scent Profile:


As I experience Amadis, the first impression is as soft and fresh as a gentle breeze at dawn. The top notes open with the brightness of bergamot, a citrus burst that is both sweet and slightly tangy, cutting through the air with a crisp sharpness. The bergamot is swiftly followed by the powdery, almost creamy elegance of lily of the valley—its delicate floral scent feels like the first bloom of spring, innocent and pure. 

Then comes the soft warmth of almond, which blends its subtle nuttiness with a creamy sweetness. The lemon adds a lively zest, balancing the softer notes with a bright, citrus edge, while aldehydes create an airy, effervescent quality, like the shimmer of candlelight, lending an ethereal, almost soapy cleanliness that lingers in the background. Together, these top notes set the stage for a fragrance that feels both fresh and tender, like the soft glow of youth.

As the fragrance settles into its heart, the sweet florals begin to bloom. Rose is at the center, velvety and dewy, with a romantic richness that feels timeless. Its soft, powdery petals give a sense of grace and refinement, while jasmine unfurls with a lush warmth, filling the senses with its heady, exotic sweetness. There's a hint of indolic sensuality to the jasmine, making it feel richer and more decadent, balanced beautifully by the bright, tropical creaminess of ylang-ylang. 

Ylang-ylang adds a touch of exotic warmth, wrapping the florals in a soft, smooth embrace, creating an almost dreamlike state. Orange blossom, with its bright, sweet, and slightly green floral character, brings a fresh lightness to the bouquet, keeping the heart lively and youthful. The overall effect of the heart notes is a floral symphony—rich, warm, yet light and elegant—evoking the soft, candlelit glow that characterizes Amadis.

As the fragrance dries down, the base notes emerge, revealing a subtle but seductive warmth. Amber adds a deep, resinous sweetness, enveloping the florals in a warm, golden glow. Oakmoss introduces a touch of earthy greenness, grounding the fragrance with its slightly damp, forest-floor quality. There’s a sense of nature here—fresh, yet darkly mysterious. The smooth, creamy richness of sandalwood mingles with the soft animalic warmth of musk, creating an intimate, skin-like warmth that lingers on the senses. 

Vanilla adds a touch of sweetness to the base, with its comforting, creamy warmth that feels both soft and luxurious. The patchouli brings an earthy depth, slightly spicy and woody, adding complexity to the composition. Finally, benzoin adds a balsamic, sweet resinous note that binds the other base notes together, creating a sense of softness and longevity.

Together, the notes of Amadis form a fragrance that feels timeless and tender, warm yet delicate, and imbued with an almost oriental subtlety. It is soft, fresh, and undeniably feminine, a light floral fantasy that blooms on the skin like a candle's gentle flicker, warming as it wears and unfolding its true beauty over time. Each element harmonizes to create a sense of young, glowing warmth—an intimate, comforting embrace that lingers with a refined sensuality.



Bottles:


Amadis presented in imported heavy crystal flacons, particularly the Couture bottles in sizes of 2 oz, 1 oz, and 1/2 oz, gives a sense of luxury and sophistication.

The presentation of Amadis in imported heavy crystal flacons exudes a sense of undeniable luxury and sophistication, elevating the experience of the perfume to one of refinement and artistry. The weight of the crystal immediately conveys a premium feel—substantial and cool to the touch, it speaks to the quality and elegance of the perfume it houses. Crystal, with its shimmering clarity and faceted beauty, has long been associated with luxury, and the choice to present Amadis in such flacons signals the brand's commitment to offering an exquisite sensory experience, both in scent and visual presentation. The flacons themselves become as cherished as the perfume within, capturing the eye and the heart of the wearer.

The term "Couture bottles" suggests that these flacons are not merely containers, but carefully crafted works of art, designed with the same attention to detail and craftsmanship as haute couture fashion. Each bottle reflects the artistry of its creation, showcasing curves, edges, and facets that play with light, much like an intricately designed gown. Offered in sizes of 2 oz, 1 oz, and 1/2 oz, the bottles cater to various personal preferences, providing options for everyday elegance or for those who seek to savor Amadis on more intimate or special occasions. These sizes ensure that the wearer can select a bottle that fits their lifestyle, whether it be a small indulgence for travel or a larger bottle to grace their vanity.

The addition of citron yellow velvet ribbons further enhances the luxurious presentation, adding both color and texture. Velvet, with its plush softness, brings a tactile richness, while the vibrant yellow hue imbues the packaging with warmth and joy. The citron yellow evokes images of sunlight and happiness, qualities that align beautifully with the delicate and youthful nature of the Amadis fragrance. The ribbons are not just decorative but add a finishing touch that transforms the packaging into something joyful and elegant. This careful attention to presentation ensures that Amadis not only smells divine but looks and feels like a treasured object, a reflection of both beauty and craftsmanship.

  • Ref. No. 540 - 1/6 oz spray flacon in suede handbag pochette - retailed for $6.00
  • Ref No. 519 - 1/4 oz Parfum - standard flacon - retailed for $9.00
  • Ref No. 520 - 1/2 oz Parfum - standard flacon - retailed for $16.50
  • Ref No. 521 - 1 oz Parfum - standard flacon - retailed for $27.50
  • Ref No. 522 - 2 oz Parfum 
  • 1/2 oz Parfum - Couture flacon - retailed for $22
  • 1 oz Parfum - Couture flacon - retailed for $35
  • 2 oz Parfum - Couture flacon - retailed for $65
  • 2 oz Eau de Cardin (Cologne) - retailed for $6.00
  • 4 oz Eau de Cardin (Cologne) - retailed for $9.00
  • 8 oz Eau de Cardin (Cologne) - retailed for $14.00



Fate of the Fragrance:


The fate of the fragrance Amadis seems to be discontinuation, although the exact date of discontinuation is unknown. It was still available for sale in 1965, indicating that it had a period of popularity and commercial success before being discontinued. Like many fragrances, the lifespan of Amadis likely depended on various factors such as changes in consumer preferences, market trends, and business decisions made by the brand. Despite its discontinuation, Amadis remains remembered as a beloved fragrance from its era, cherished by those who experienced its delicate and enchanting scent.

CLICK HERE TO FIND AMADIS PERFUME BY PIERRE CARDIN 

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