Hanae Mori by Shiseido c1968

Hanae Mori perfume, created by Japanese fashion designer Hanae Mori and originally launched by Shiseido in 1968, holds significance as her first fragrance. The name, pronounced as "HAN-eye MORE-y," is accurate. It's a beautiful scent that has remained popular over the years.

In Japanese, "Hanae Mori" (花衣 森) roughly translates to "flower garment forest" or "forest of flowered clothes." "Hanae" (花衣) combines the characters for "flower" (花) and "clothing" or "garment" (衣), while "Mori" (森) means "forest." So, the name evokes imagery of a natural, floral landscape intertwined with the world of fashion.

Hanae Mori represents the Japanese taste for scents which are delicate and as close to nature as possible. Indeed, Hanae Mori perfume reflects a delicate and nature-inspired aesthetic, which resonates with the traditional Japanese appreciation for subtle, natural fragrances. The brand's scents often incorporate floral and botanical notes, mirroring the beauty of nature. This approach aligns with the Japanese cultural preference for understated elegance and harmony with the environment.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. It starts with a fresh flowery top, followed by a soft floral heart, layered over a powdery base. The scent is verdant and aromatic blend of delicate blossoms of rose and jasmine, mimosa, carnation and lily of the valley.  

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, rosewood, aldehyde, mimosa, spice oils
• Middle notes: carnation, rose, clove buds, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, orris, orchid
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, cedar, oakmoss, civet, benzoin

Based on the notes, Hanae Mori perfume is a refreshing and feminine fragrance that captures the essence of a blooming garden. Let's break it down:

• Top notes: The initial burst of scent is bright and uplifting, with hints of bergamot, lemon, and rosewood adding a fresh and citrusy dimension. Aldehydes lend a sparkling quality, while mimosa and spice oils provide a subtle warmth.

• Middle notes: The heart of the fragrance blooms with a bouquet of delicate flowers, including carnation, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, and orchid. These floral notes create a soft and romantic aura, with hints of clove buds adding a touch of spice.

• Base notes: The fragrance settles into a powdery and comforting base, with sandalwood, musk, cedar, oakmoss, civet, and benzoin adding depth and warmth. These earthy and woody notes anchor the floral elements, creating a balanced and sophisticated scent.

Overall, Hanae Mori perfume offers a harmonious blend of fresh florals, powdery accents, and woody undertones, embodying the Japanese preference for delicate and nature-inspired fragrances.

Bottles:

Much of the charm of Hanae Mori's perfume is the box, neatly covered in Japanese floral silk and opened with the flick of a little bone peg, echoing the designer's soft, feminine style. 

The attention to detail in the packaging of Hanae Mori's perfume reflects the designer's commitment to elegance and femininity. The use of Japanese floral silk to cover the box adds a touch of luxury and cultural authenticity, while the bone peg closure provides a tactile and graceful way to open the packaging. This careful craftsmanship mirrors Hanae Mori's soft and feminine style, enhancing the overall charm and allure of the perfume presentation. It's not just about the scent itself; it's about the entire experience, from the moment you see the box to the moment you apply the fragrance.

Mademoiselle, 1969:

"Shiseido names it after Hanae Mori, Japan's designing woman, and puts it out in an aerosol'd Eau de cologne, among other scented things. 2 oz., $12.00."

 

"Mademoiselle, 1969" captures the essence of the era with its description of Hanae Mori's fragrance release by Shiseido. It highlights the association of the perfume with Hanae Mori, renowned as "Japan's designing woman," indicating her significant influence in the world of fashion and fragrance. The mention of the fragrance being available in aerosol'd Eau de cologne form reflects the popular trends of the time, catering to the demand for convenient and easy-to-use scent formats. The price point mentioned, $12.00 for a 2 oz. bottle, provides insight into the accessibility of the fragrance during that period. Overall, it's a snapshot of the cultural and commercial landscape surrounding Hanae Mori's fragrance debu

Harper's Bazaar, 1970:

"This indispensable traveling companion for any woman en route to Japan may be purchased for $1 at Bergdorf's cosmetic counter where you will also find one of the most fascinating fragrances ever created, Shiseido's Hanae Mori perfume."

Harper's Bazaar's description from 1970 highlights the significance of Shiseido's Hanae Mori perfume as a must-have item, especially for women traveling to Japan. The emphasis on its availability for purchase at Bergdorf's cosmetic counter suggests its status as a sought-after fragrance, easily accessible to cosmopolitan women. The portrayal of Hanae Mori perfume as "one of the most fascinating fragrances ever created" underscores its unique and captivating scent profile, contributing to its allure among consumers. This excerpt provides insight into the widespread appeal and recognition of Hanae Mori perfume during the early 1970s, both domestically and internationally.

Harper's Bazaar, 1970:

"The Gentle Art of Japan as interpreted by Hanae Mori, exclusive in our Plaza Collections, Fourth Floor. The mystique of the Orient captured in Shiseido's Hanae Mori fragrance, in Beauty at Bergdorf's, Street Floor."

 This excerpt from Harper's Bazaar in 1970 emphasizes the cultural allure and exclusivity of Hanae Mori's fragrance collaboration with Shiseido. The mention of "The Gentle Art of Japan as interpreted by Hanae Mori" highlights the designer's ability to infuse her creations with the essence of Japanese culture, adding an air of sophistication and mystique. The description of the fragrance being "exclusive in our Plaza Collections, Fourth Floor" suggests a sense of luxury and prestige associated with acquiring Hanae Mori perfume. Additionally, the reference to the fragrance being available at "Beauty at Bergdorf's, Street Floor" further underscores its accessibility to discerning consumers seeking distinctive and high-quality scents. Overall, this excerpt reflects the widespread recognition and admiration for Hanae Mori's collaboration with Shiseido, positioning the fragrance as a symbol of elegance and cultural appreciation.

 New York Magazine, 1976:

"Hanae Mori. Wear an original Hanae Mori for $12.50. Her fragrance, in cologne spray. Also in cologne, $20. Perfume, $70 an ounce. A large bar of soap $7.50; 3 small ones for $10."

This excerpt from New York Magazine in 1976 provides pricing details for various products from the Hanae Mori line.

• An original Hanae Mori fragrance was available for $12.50 in cologne spray form.
• The fragrance was also offered in cologne format for $20.
• For those seeking a more concentrated version, the perfume was priced at $70 an ounce.
• Additionally, customers could purchase a large bar of soap for $7.50, or three small ones for $10.

These prices offer insight into the range of options available within the Hanae Mori product line and indicate the affordability and accessibility of the fragrance and related items during that time period.

It's fascinating to see the variety of options available for Hanae Mori perfume! The availability in different sizes and formats catered to the preferences and needs of a diverse range of customers. Here's a breakdown of the options mentioned:

• 1 oz Parfum
• 1/2 oz Parfum
• 3.25 oz Eau de Cologne Pure Mist Spray
• 2 oz Aerosol Eau de Cologne Spray
• Soap

This range allowed customers to choose the concentration and application method that best suited their preferences, whether they preferred a more intense and long-lasting fragrance with the parfum or a lighter application with the eau de cologne sprays. The availability of soap also extended the Hanae Mori experience beyond fragrance, offering a luxurious way to enjoy the scent in daily grooming routines.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1995, Hanae Mori relaunched her fragrance in collaboration with Shiseido and Cosmetique et Parfum International, France. The original fragrance underwent a reformulation by perfumer Bernard Ellena to align with contemporary preferences and tastes. This revamped version was introduced under the brand name Hanae Mori, maintaining the essence of the original scent while catering to the evolving fragrance landscape. The collaboration between Hanae Mori, Shiseido, and Cosmetique et Parfum International marked a significant milestone in the continued legacy of the Hanae Mori fragrance.

It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: bilberry, black currant, French wild strawberry, blackberry, blueberry
• Middle notes: rose, ylang ylang, peony, jasmine
• Base notes: sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Brazilian rosewood, Hawaiian almond tree

The reformulated version of Hanae Mori fragrance, introduced in 1995, is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. Three equal layers (floral, woody, red fruits). Here's a breakdown of its notes:

• Top notes: The scent opens with a luscious blend of bilberry, black currant, French wild strawberry, blackberry, and blueberry, creating a fruity and vibrant introduction.

• Middle notes: The heart of the fragrance features a bouquet of floral notes, including rose, ylang-ylang, peony, and jasmine, adding a layer of feminine elegance and sophistication.

• Base notes: The fragrance settles into a warm and sensual base, with notes of sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Brazilian rosewood, and Hawaiian almond tree, providing depth and richness to the composition.

This combination of fruity, floral, and woody notes creates a complex and captivating scent experience, reflecting the modern reinterpretation of the iconic Hanae Mori fragrance.

The redesign of the Hanae Mori fragrance bottle in 1995 included a glass top that was crafted to resemble the folded wings of a butterfly. This design element added a touch of elegance and whimsy to the packaging, reflecting the brand's aesthetic and capturing the essence of the fragrance within. The butterfly motif symbolizes beauty, transformation, and femininity, enhancing the overall visual appeal and allure of the product.. 

Hanae Mori Couture:

Hanae Mori Haute Couture by Hanae Mori was launched in 1998 in association with Shiseido Cosmetics. It is classified as a soft aldehydic fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, coriander, aldehydes
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, narcissus, lily of the valley
• Base notes: iris, sandalwood

The launch of Hanae Mori Haute Couture in 1998, in partnership with Shiseido Cosmetics, introduced a new fragrance experience classified as a soft aldehydic fruity floral scent for women. Here's a breakdown of its notes:

• Top notes: The fragrance opens with a fresh and sparkling blend of bergamot, coriander, and aldehydes, creating an invigorating and uplifting introduction.
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• Middle notes: The heart of the fragrance features a rich bouquet of floral notes, including jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, narcissus, and lily of the valley, adding a layer of elegance and femininity.
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• Base notes: The scent settles into a soft and sensual base, with notes of iris and sandalwood, providing depth and warmth to the composition.

This combination of fruity, floral, and woody notes, enhanced by the addition of aldehydes, creates a sophisticated and captivating scent experience, befitting the haute couture-inspired theme of the fragrance.