Incognito by Noxell c1992

Incognito by Noxell: launched in 1992 in association with Cover Girl, a division of the Noxell Corp. Procter & Gamble was looking to expand its portfolio and bought Noxell in October 1989 and in turn now owned Cover Girl. The name Incognito was originally filed for a trademark in 1989 by the Noxell Corp. and granted a trademark in 1990. 

It's fascinating how the evolution of corporate acquisitions and brand strategies can shape the cosmetics industry. Incognito by Noxell seems to have a rich history intertwined with the business maneuvers of Procter & Gamble. It's intriguing how a brand's identity can transition through different ownerships while still maintaining its essence. 

Cincinatti-based Procter & Gamble's Incognito was the first mass market perfume developed by the company. It was scheduled to debut to the public with an extravagant ad campaign in April of 1992. "The advertising will be in black and white," said Procter & Gambler spokesman, Don Tassone, "and imagery for the product is one of the sensuality, intrigue and romantic promise. The advertising expresses that with a provocative message, to 'Slip into the Night.'"

This was meant to represent "a new look for Cover Girl and a very new look for the Procter & Gamble Co." as P&G chairman and chief executive Edwin L. Artzt told a coterie of cosmetic execs. It was at this meeting held in New York in early January 1992, Artzt told the execs that P&G planned to eventually get into the expensive end of the perfume business in the USA. It already had a small presence through the EuroCos line of Betrix Products, a German business P&G acquired several years before. The EuroCos brand marketed the Hugo Boss for men and Laura Biagiotti's Roma fragrances for women in US department stores. Those products already had a major presence in Europe.

The introduction of Incognito marked a significant milestone for Procter & Gamble, stepping into the realm of perfumery in the mass market segment. The black and white advertising campaign, emphasizing sensuality and intrigue with the tagline "Slip into the Night," seems to have been crafted to capture attention and evoke a sense of mystery and allure.

It's interesting to note how Procter & Gamble, primarily known for household and personal care products, ventured into the world of high-end perfumery. The acquisition of Betrix Products and its EuroCos line provided a foothold in the fragrance market, with established brands like Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti's Roma already enjoying success in Europe.

By expanding its portfolio to include perfumes like Incognito, Procter & Gamble aimed to diversify its offerings and appeal to a broader consumer base. The move also reflected the company's willingness to adapt and innovate in response to evolving market trends and consumer preferences.

Incognito was meant to be a costly continuance to the Procter & Gamble fragrance, Navy.  The suggested list price was $23 for 1/3 ounce of perfume and $10.50 for a 1/2 ounce of cologne which would grace the shelves in mass market stores. As a contrast, in department stores, the more upscale brands such as Estee Lauder, Givenchy, Chanel and Lancome ranged from $60 to $150 for 1/2 ounce. 

"At the time we acquired Noxell the development of Navy was pretty far along," Don Tassone said. "With some additional work we brought it to the marketplace soon after the acquisition. It quickly became one of the leading mass fragrances for women. Building on that, P&G began developing the new Incognito fragrance, also from Cover Girl. This is the first brand we have managed from the start, again building on learning we gained with our experience from Navy."

I think it is intriguing to see how Incognito was positioned as a higher-end extension of Procter & Gamble's fragrance line, particularly following the success of Navy in the mass market segment. By offering Incognito at a suggested list price comparable to more upscale brands in department stores, Procter & Gamble aimed to capture a different segment of consumers who may be seeking a more luxurious fragrance experience.

The development of Incognito from the start allowed Procter & Gamble to apply the lessons learned from Navy's success and tailor the new fragrance to meet the preferences of their target audience. Leveraging the expertise gained from managing Navy, Procter & Gamble likely had a clearer understanding of market dynamics and consumer behavior in the fragrance industry, which would have informed their strategy for launching Incognito.

This strategic approach demonstrates Procter & Gamble's commitment to expanding its presence in the fragrance market and catering to diverse consumer preferences across different price points. It also reflects the company's willingness to invest in product development and innovation to maintain its competitive edge in the industry.

Procter & Gamble, owner of some of the world's best known health and beauty care products, was not new to the sphere of fragrance. P&G developed its own for years as well as buying millions of pounds from other manufacturers for its bar soaps, detergents and many other products. But the company was respectively a newcomer in the retail perfume business. P&G first got into the cosmetics business with acquisitions of Richardson-Vicks in 1984; the Noxell Corp. (maker of Cover Girl, Clarion and Noxema) in the fall of 1989; as well as Giorgio Beverly Hills Inc from Avon Products Inc, and two Revlon divisions in 1991 (Max Factor & Betrix).  This resulted in annual sales of $4.3 billion in the cosmetics category by 1992.

Procter & Gamble's journey into the fragrance industry was indeed a gradual one, marked by strategic acquisitions and a growing presence in the cosmetics market. Prior to its foray into retail perfume, P&G had a significant footprint in the development and procurement of fragrances for its various health and beauty care products, including bar soaps and detergents.

However, it wasn't until the 1980s and early 1990s that P&G made key acquisitions, such as Richardson-Vicks, the Noxell Corp., Giorgio Beverly Hills Inc., and divisions of Revlon, which significantly bolstered its position in the cosmetics industry. These acquisitions not only expanded P&G's product portfolio but also provided access to established brands like Cover Girl, Clarion, Noxema, and Giorgio Beverly Hills.

By integrating these acquisitions into its business operations, P&G rapidly grew its presence in the cosmetics market, culminating in annual sales of $4.3 billion in the cosmetics category by 1992. This strategic expansion allowed P&G to diversify its offerings, tap into new consumer segments, and strengthen its competitive position in the global health and beauty care industry.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral semi-oriental fragrance for women. Incognito is a semi-oriental, floral bouquet that begins with a scintillating mixture of fresh fruits (mandarin orange and fresh peach). Mid-notes include hyacinth, narcissus, jasmine and rose and the woody oriental dry down is a mix of sandalwood and vanilla.

• Top notes: mandarin, peach, aldehydes, orange, green notes, basil, bergamot, Brazilian rosewood and lemon
• Middle notes: hyacinth, honey, carnation, narcissus, cinnamon, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
• Base notes:  amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, benzoin, civet, vanilla, incense and styrax

Scent Profile:

Incognito is a captivating and multifaceted fragrance, blending floral and oriental notes to create an alluring olfactory experience.

Its top notes of mandarin, peach, and fresh fruits provide a lively and vibrant opening, while the inclusion of green notes, basil, and bergamot adds a refreshing and aromatic quality.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the combination of hyacinth, jasmine, rose, and other floral elements such as narcissus and ylang-ylang, suggests a rich and complex bouquet, evoking feelings of romance and femininity. The addition of honey and cinnamon introduce warm and sweet undertones, enhancing the overall allure of the scent.

Finally, the base notes of sandalwood, vanilla, amber, and incense contribute to the fragrance's woody and oriental character, creating a lingering and sensual dry down. The inclusion of patchouli, benzoin, and tonka bean adds depth and complexity, while hints of civet and styrax introduce a touch of mystery and sophistication.

Overall, Incognito is a sophisticated and alluring fragrance, combining floral, fruity, and oriental notes to create a captivating scent that embodies sensuality and intrigue.

Bottles:

Incognito was housed inside of an elongated A-shaped frosted bottle topped with a green plastic cap designed by Pierre Dinand, who also designed the eye catching packaging for the Navy fragrance. For the 1 ounce cologne bottle, a gold "activator" button at the top is depressed to spray the fragrant contents.

The description of Incognito's packaging evokes a sense of elegance and sophistication, reflective of the fragrance it contains. The elongated A-shaped frosted bottle, topped with a green plastic cap, likely exudes a sleek and modern aesthetic, complemented by the design expertise of Pierre Dinand, who also worked on the packaging for the Navy fragrance.

The gold "activator" button on the 1 ounce cologne bottle adds a touch of luxury and functionality, providing a convenient way to dispense the fragrance. This attention to detail in both design and functionality enhances the overall experience of using Incognito, aligning with the brand's image of quality and refinement.

Overall, the packaging of Incognito appears to be thoughtfully crafted to not only protect the fragrance but also to enhance the presentation and appeal of the product, further contributing to its allure and desirability among consumers.

Incognito was originally available in the following:

• 1/3 ounce of perfume 
• 0.10 oz cologne
• 1/2 ounce of cologne

It seems that the fragrance was offered in various sizes to cater to different preferences and usage habits of consumers. The availability of perfume and cologne in different volumes allowed customers to choose the option that best suited their needs and budget, while still experiencing the captivating scent of Incognito.

 Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1996, Procter & Gamble announced it was putting seven of its mass market fragrances up for sale, hoping to sell them as a package: Navy, Navy for Men, Jaclyn Smith's California, California for Men, Incognito, Le Jardin and Toujours Moi.

Kimberly Steward, a spokesperson in P&G's Maryland-based cosmetics division said that the sale encompassed basically the company's entire mass fragrance business in the USA. "There's still some debate about what's in and what's out in Europe," she said. The sale was part of P&G's year-old program to rid itself of minor, underperforming and non-strategic brands. 

P&G President Durk Kager said, "Mass fragrances make up a relatively small business for us, compared to our much larger cosmetic and fine fragrance business." He further explained that "We want to focus our resources on building cosmetics, with Cover Girl and Max Factor, and our fine fragrances, through our Giorgio, Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti brands."

These were bought up by the Dana Perfumes Corporation in 1996. Dana Perfumes Corp. took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl (Noxell), Shulton (Old Spice), Max Factor (Le Jardin, Toujours Moi), Canoe, Houbigant (Chantilly) and Jaclyn Smith (California) perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names.

In 1995, Dana ("Les Parfums de Dana") was purchased by Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc. Renaissance Cosmetics was acquired by Fragrance Express, Inc. and the investment house of Dimeling, Schreiber & Park. Dana now became the "New Dana Perfume Corporation." Fragrance Express, Inc. was purchased by National Boston Medical Inc. 

In 2004, New Dana announced that it was closing it's 40 year old Mountain Top facility in Wright Township, Pennsylvania. At this time, two Danas were using the facility: New Dana Perfume, Inc., which manufactures, fills, and stores Dana products, and Dana Classic Fragrances, Inc., which owns the trademarks to the Dana fragrances and markets and sells the Dana perfume line.

Incognito is still available at many online discount shops. If you are looking for the original vintage formula, you need to find the boxes and labels marked with Noxell or Cover Girl. The early Dana formula might be the same as the prior formulation. I am not exactly sure how the newest formula from Dana smells, I do know that it has been reformulated to align with the IFRA restrictions on certain ingredients.