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Monday, January 25, 2016

La Rose by Rochas c1949

In 1949, the launch of "La Rose" by Rochas occurred amidst a post-war period marked by a resurgence of optimism and elegance. Marcel Rochas, the founder, likely chose the name "La Rose" for its timeless and universally beloved connotations. "La Rose," translating to "The Rose" in English, is a name steeped in symbolic richness. Roses have long been revered in perfumery for their delicate yet powerful fragrance, evoking notions of romance, femininity, and natural beauty. This flower's association with perfumery stretches back centuries, celebrated for its complex scent profile that ranges from fresh and dewy to richly floral and intoxicating.

The name "La Rose" would resonate deeply with individuals appreciative of classic elegance and refined tastes. For them, encountering this perfume would evoke images of lush rose gardens in bloom, enveloping them in a sensory experience reminiscent of springtime and passionate romance. The word itself conjures feelings of tenderness, sophistication, and a timeless allure, appealing to those who value tradition and grace.


Originally crafted by Edmond Roudnitska and later reformulated by Mme. Thérèse Roudnitska, "La Rose" by Rochas reflects a blend of artistry and meticulous craftsmanship, aimed at capturing the essence of the rose in its various facets. Its formulation likely aimed to balance the floral notes with other ingredients to enhance longevity and depth, ensuring that wearers would experience a fragrance that unfolds gracefully over time, much like the unfolding petals of a rose.

In summary, "La Rose" by Rochas, launched in 1949 and perfected over time by renowned perfumers, embodies the timeless elegance and enduring allure of its namesake flower. It stands as a testament to the artistry of perfumery, capturing the essence of romance and sophistication that resonates across generations.

Le Mond, 1950:
"Thanks to Rochas, the roses survive the morning that condemns them. A summer perfume if ever there was one, "Rose", by Rochas, evokes the scent of rose gardens, this atmosphere of romantic celebrations whose memory delights us. Champagne, light dresses, smiles, lace, you just have to open the box covered with pink and black Chantilly for these evocations to emerge..."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, green notes, geranium leaves, lemon, apricot
  • Middle notes: iris, ylang ylang, jasmine, plum, Bulgarian rose, sweet pea, lily of the valley, tea rose
  • Base notes: patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, spices, musk, amber, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood


The New Yorker, 1949:
"Rochas' La Rose has a puzzling way of seeming on one skin to be entirely rose and on another to have a trace of sweet pea, lily of the valley, or some other garden flower, with always a hint of greenery."

In 1949, The New Yorker described "La Rose" by Rochas as a uniquely versatile fragrance. It had the remarkable ability to adapt to different wearers, sometimes presenting as a pure rose scent and other times revealing subtle notes of sweet pea, lily of the valley, or other floral elements, always accompanied by a touch of greenery. This chameleon-like quality added to its allure, making it a captivating choice for a wide range of perfume enthusiasts.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"La Rose de Rochas: Chemists have worked for more than fifteen years on this extract which contains a large proportion of natural essences. There is nothing to say about this excellent perfume except that it 'is' the Rose, this Rose which Apollinaire writes evokes the soft curve of a hip, and which he dedicates to Lou 'my rose oh my perfection I love you and it is with joy that I risk pricking myself in favor of your beauty'."

By 1950, L'Amour de l'art highlighted the meticulous craftsmanship behind "La Rose," noting that chemists had devoted over fifteen years to perfecting its formula. The perfume's high concentration of natural essences allowed it to truly embody the essence of a rose. The review poetically referenced Apollinaire's dedication of a rose to Lou, underscoring the fragrance's romantic and artistic inspiration.

Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
"A gift of Roses perfume— Caron's delicate “La Fête des Roses”; Marcel Rochas' fresh-blooming “La Rose”; Patou's “Joy”—roses star-crossed with jasmine; Renoir's rich rose-noted “Futur."

Harper's Bazaar in 1952 included "La Rose" by Rochas in a list of distinguished rose perfumes, alongside Caron's “La Fête des Roses,” Patou's “Joy,” and Renoir's “Futur.” Described as "fresh-blooming," Rochas' "La Rose" stood out for its vibrant and lively interpretation of the rose, appealing to those who favored a fresh and natural floral scent.

Jet, 1952:
"One of the most sought after lines of French perfume in the world is now available to Americans. It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian "bouquets," each of which has wide appeal. "Femme," is the heaviest of the perfumes, and "Mousseline", a blend of jasmine, lavender and mimosa, the lightest. A more sensual perfume is "Mouche", suggestive of mosses, leaves, roots, and grasses. An exquisite fragrance called "La Rose" is described as "all rose." A perfume for men, called "Moustache," has a scent of the outdoors, -clean, crisp, windswept. These perfumes come in special gift packages designed by Rochas. Each package contains three one-quarter ounce bottles. Price: $22.50."

Jet magazine in 1952 emphasized the availability of Rochas' perfumes to American consumers, highlighting "La Rose" as a quintessential "all rose" fragrance within a distinctive assortment of Parisian scents. The article noted the exquisite nature of "La Rose" and its packaging in special gift sets, making it a desirable choice for those seeking a luxurious fragrance experience.

Combat, 1954:
"Eau a La Rose by Marcel Rochas: the Bulgarian rose, that of those gardens which are already of the Orient, to which Anna de Noailles dreamed in the languor of her Parisian bedroom, the rose almost amethyst with its black veins, patrician smell, a little treacherous, a little bitter, a little green, too, here it is enclosed in crystal. A bee would be mistaken. It makes a velvet paw and draws in its thorns, to freshen the skin of a woman, too caressed by summer, fragile as the rose and as it blooms."

In 1954, Combat provided a poetic and evocative description of "Eau a La Rose" by Rochas, likening it to the Bulgarian roses of Oriental gardens. The review captured the perfume's complex and multifaceted nature, with hints of bitterness, greenness, and treachery. This imagery painted a picture of an intricate and sophisticated fragrance enclosed in crystal, perfect for a woman seeking to refresh her skin with a touch of elegance.

Realities, 1955:
"We recommend Lanvin's Arpege, Dior's Diorama and Rochas' Femme for all purposes. The French like Rochas' La Rose for aunts and Piguet's Bandit for sultry girl friends. Carven and Lanvin put out small sets of three scents for $2 to $3 per set."

In 1955, Realities recommended "La Rose" by Rochas as an ideal gift for aunts, suggesting its universal appeal and gentle, floral nature. This positioning alongside other notable perfumes highlighted its suitability for a wide audience, particularly those seeking a classic and endearing fragrance.

The News Journal, 1960:
"When a man sends a woman Marcel Rochas' La Rose perfume, it can mean one thing 'you are the rose of my life.'"

By 1960, The News Journal underscored the romantic symbolism of gifting "La Rose" by Rochas. The act of giving this perfume was seen as a heartfelt gesture, conveying the message "you are the rose of my life." This sentiment reinforced the deep emotional connection and significance associated with the fragrance.

House & Garden, 1970:
"La Rose, tender and true, by Marcel Rochas ($10 for one quarter of an ounce)."

In 1970, House & Garden described "La Rose" by Marcel Rochas as "tender and true," highlighting its enduring charm and authenticity. Priced at $10 for a quarter of an ounce, the fragrance maintained its appeal as a timeless and genuine representation of the rose, continuing to captivate its audience even as trends evolved.


Scent Story Based on the Launch Party:


In the opulent Rose Garden at The Hague-les-Roses, a cocktail party of grand elegance unfolded, celebrating the launch of Marcel Rochas' new perfume, "La Rose." The entire event was bathed in shades of pink, from the decor to the food and drinks, creating an atmosphere that was both luxurious and whimsical. The sky, initially overcast, cleared to a radiant blue, perfectly complementing the vibrant hues of the garden's blooming roses. As the guests arrived, the scent of freshly cut roses mingled with the intoxicating aroma of "La Rose," setting the stage for an evening of sensory delight.

Upon entering, the sight of elegantly dressed models in Rochas' latest creations, all in varying shades of pink and rose, immediately caught the eye. They moved gracefully among the guests, showcasing the ethereal tea gowns and frothy lingerie designed to enhance the romantic aura of "La Rose." The air was filled with the lively chatter of the fashionable attendees, punctuated by the soft strains of a concert-walk orchestrated by Henri Sauguet, entirely devoted to the theme of the rose. The program, adorned with a delicate rose illustration by Jacques Dupont, added a touch of artistic elegance to the evening.

The fragrance itself, "La Rose," was a masterpiece. Its top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, green notes, geranium leaves, lemon, and apricot created an opening that was fresh, sparkling, and slightly fruity. This initial burst gradually gave way to a rich floral heart composed of iris, ylang-ylang, jasmine, plum, Bulgarian rose, sweet pea, lily of the valley, and tea rose. The blend of these middle notes produced a lush, intoxicating bouquet that perfectly captured the essence of a blooming garden. As the evening progressed, the base notes of patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, spices, musk, amber, oakmoss, vanilla, and sandalwood emerged, adding a deep, earthy warmth that lingered beautifully on the skin.

The buffet was a visual and culinary delight, with everything meticulously crafted to reflect the rose theme. Pink champagne flowed freely, its effervescence tickling the palate with each sip. Delicate biscuits and delectable treats, all in shades of pink, were artfully arranged, tempting guests with their beauty and taste. The subtle sweetness of the apricot notes in the perfume seemed to echo in the flavors of the buffet, creating a harmonious sensory experience.

Marcel Rochas, the charismatic host, mingled with the guests, sharing his passion for "La Rose." He explained how the perfume was created to be worn with ethereal tea gowns, frothy lingerie, and especially peignoirs and negligees. "Apply a few drops when you want to feel most romantic," he advised, his voice imbued with the promise of enchantment. Rochas elaborated on the costly raw materials sourced from around the world, emphasizing the high proportion of natural essences in the fragrance. This dedication to quality was evident in the perfume's complexity and richness, a true testament to the art of perfumery.

The guest list read like a who's who of Parisian society: Elsa Schiaparelli, Simone Simon, Jacqueline Delubac, Princess Murat, Princess of Arenberg, Count and Countess Etienne de Beaumont, Baron and Baroness de Cabrol, and many others graced the event with their presence. As the evening drew to a close, the garden, now illuminated by soft lighting, took on an ethereal glow. The fragrance of roses, both real and from "La Rose," hung in the air, creating an unforgettable ambiance of romance and sophistication.

In this magnificent setting, surrounded by beauty and luxury, "La Rose" was more than just a perfume; it was a celebration of elegance, romance, and the timeless allure of the rose. The launch event, with its perfect blend of visual splendor, captivating scents, exquisite tastes, and enchanting sounds, left a lasting impression on all who attended, a fitting tribute to Marcel Rochas' personal favorite creation.

Product Line:

The product line of "La Rose" by Rochas, introduced in 1949, was designed to offer a range of formulations that catered to varying preferences and occasions. At its pinnacle was the Parfum, or Extrait de Parfum, the most concentrated form of fragrance that delivers an intense and luxurious olfactory experience. This formulation, often housed in small, elegant bottles with precise application methods, was ideal for those seeking a long-lasting and potent scent that lingered delicately on the skin throughout the day.

Complementing the Parfum was the Eau de Cologne variant, which provided a lighter and fresher interpretation of "La Rose." Eau de Cologne is known for its invigorating citrus top notes and a blend of floral and herbal elements, offering a refreshing splash of fragrance suitable for daytime wear or warmer climates. This formulation aimed to evoke a sense of vitality and cleanliness, making it a versatile choice for those who appreciate a subtle yet distinct fragrance profile.

Adding a youthful and vibrant touch to the collection was the Eau de Toilette titled "Eau de Jeunesse," meaning "Water of Youth." This cleverly named iteration of "La Rose" was crafted to appeal to a younger audience or those seeking a more casual, everyday fragrance experience. Eau de Toilette formulations typically strike a balance between longevity and freshness, offering a lighter concentration than Parfum but more substantial than Eau de Cologne. "Eau de Jeunesse" aimed to capture the essence of youthful exuberance and energy, making it an accessible and appealing choice for daily use.

Together, these variations within the "La Rose" product line catered to a spectrum of fragrance preferences, ensuring that each wearer could find a formulation that suited their lifestyle and desired intensity of scent. Whether indulging in the opulence of the Parfum, embracing the revitalizing qualities of the Eau de Cologne, or enjoying the youthful charm of "Eau de Jeunesse," Rochas' "La Rose" offered a multifaceted olfactory experience that celebrated the timeless allure of the rose in its various interpretations.



Bottles: 


The bottles and packaging of "La Rose" by Rochas epitomized elegance and refinement, catering to the sophisticated tastes of its clientele in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Each variant—the Parfum, Eau de Cologne, and Eau de Jeunesse—was presented in the classic Rochas amphora shaped splash bottles, designed to evoke a sense of luxury and timeless beauty.

Overall, Rochas' "La Rose" product line not only offered a spectrum of fragrance intensities but also curated an aesthetic experience through meticulously designed bottles and packaging. Each variant, whether in the opulent Parfum, versatile Eau de Cologne, or youthful Eau de Jeunesse, embodied the timeless elegance and luxury that defined Rochas' approach to perfumery during this era.

Parfum:


In 1949, the Parfum variant of "La Rose" by Rochas was offered in four different sizes, each catering to varying preferences and budgets. The pricing for these sizes ranged from $9 to $25, with specific amounts of $22.50, $15, and $9. By 1950, an additional size became available, priced at $40. Adjusted for inflation, these prices in 2024 would equate to approximately $117.82, $196.36, $294.54, and $327.27 respectively.

This pricing strategy allowed Rochas to accommodate a wide range of consumers, from those seeking a smaller, more affordable option to those willing to invest in a larger, more luxurious bottle of their beloved fragrance. Each size of the Parfum was housed in a special opaline glass bottle adorned with black Chantilly lace, packaged within boxes featuring the signature lace motif against a pink background. This presentation not only emphasized the fragrance's exclusivity but also appealed to discerning individuals who valued both quality and elegance in their perfume choices.


Parfum Purse Flacons:


Three different mini bottles were used to carry in the handbag: one model was simple and was known as the "purse flacon", while a more elaborate bottle, called the "evening bag model" was used for special occasions, while the third could be carried for everyday use.

Marcel Rochas ensured that La Rose was not only a luxurious fragrance but also a statement piece with its exquisite mini bottles designed for different occasions. The first model, known as the "purse flacon," was crafted for everyday use. This bottle was elegantly housed inside a pink-dyed suede bag, complete with a satin rope handle for easy carrying. Made of transparent glass with a molded disk shape and topped with a gilt metal screw-top, this petite flacon stood approximately 2.25 inches tall. A gold foil label adorned the bottle, adding a touch of sophistication to its compact design.


For special evenings, Rochas introduced the more elaborate "evening bag model." This miniature bottle was encased in pink enamel over white opaline glass, delicately adorned with rich black Chantilly lace. Brass hardware added a luxurious finish, while the bottle was kept within a black silk faille pouch resembling a coin purse. This elegant set, prized for its rarity and intricate design, catered to those seeking a touch of glamour and refinement for their formal gatherings.



The third mini bottle, a cylindrical purse flacon, also held a distinctive charm and rarity. Crafted from pink opaline glass and adorned with a black lace exterior, this design echoed the luxurious aesthetics of La Rose. Each of these mini bottles not only preserved the fragrance but also embodied Rochas' commitment to elegance and style, offering collectors and connoisseurs alike a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship and timeless allure of La Rose.


In addition to these three mini perfume bottles, La Rose was also available in a micro miniature perfume flacon, designed specifically for convenient storage in handbags. This diminutive bottle was crafted with meticulous attention to detail, embodying the essence of luxury in a compact size. Its rarity today underscores its coveted status among collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike. The micro miniature flacon preserved the essence of La Rose in a smaller, more portable form, making it ideal for on-the-go touch-ups or travel. Its diminutive size did not compromise on elegance; rather, it encapsulated the craftsmanship and sophistication synonymous with Marcel Rochas' perfume creations. This miniature version remains a cherished artifact, offering a glimpse into the heritage and timeless allure of La Rose as a quintessential fragrance of its era.


Eau de Cologne:



La Rose was also offered in cologne form, housed in a modified version of the signature amphora-shaped bottle used for the parfum. Similar to its counterpart, this cologne bottle retained the graceful curves and elegant silhouette that characterized Marcel Rochas' perfume designs. However, distinguishing it from the parfum version, the cologne bottle featured a practical black plastic screw cap. This modification ensured ease of use and durability, catering to those who preferred a lighter application of the fragrance or enjoyed the refreshing qualities of a cologne formulation. Despite this adaptation, the bottle maintained the timeless appeal and luxurious presentation associated with Rochas' creations, reflecting the brand's dedication to both aesthetic elegance and functional design in the realm of perfumery.

The Cologne splashes came in three sizes, at least one of them was a:
  • 6oz bottle stands 4.75" tall

In 1949, Rochas' Cologne variant of "La Rose" was available in three sizes, catering to different preferences and budgets. The prices for these sizes were $5, $8, and $12.50. Adjusted for inflation, these prices in 2024 would be approximately $65.45, $104.73, and $163.63 respectively.

By 1962, the Cologne evolved to include a more modern packaging option: a 1.5 oz spray bottle. This innovation responded to contemporary preferences for convenience and ease of application, offering a practical yet elegant way to enjoy the fragrance. The Cologne maintained its appeal through its classic yet evolving presentation, ensuring it continued to capture the essence of "La Rose" while adapting to changing consumer expectations over time.

The packaging for the Eau de Cologne mirrored that of the Parfum, featuring boxes adorned with the signature black Chantilly lace motif against a pink background, ensuring a cohesive and elegant presentation.




Eau de Jeunesse:


n 1949, Rochas' Eau de Jeunesse, named "Water of Youth," was available in two sizes designed to cater to different preferences and budgets. The pricing for these sizes was set at $8 and $12.50. Adjusted for inflation, these prices in 2024 would translate to approximately $104.73 and $163.63 respectively.

The Eau de Jeunesse was available in two sizes:
  • 4 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall.
  • 8 oz 

This particular formulation of "La Rose" was crafted to appeal to a younger demographic or those seeking a lighter, more casual fragrance option. Unlike its counterparts with their intricate lace motifs, the packaging for Eau de Jeunesse featured a delicate netted lace design against a soft pink background. This aesthetic choice emphasized a fresh and vibrant appeal, blending affordability with elegance. It was a deliberate strategy to attract consumers who valued both style and substance in their choice of fragrance, ensuring that "La Rose" in its Eau de Jeunesse form maintained a youthful and contemporary allure while retaining the timeless essence of the Rochas brand.





Fate of the Fragrance:



By 1973, "La Rose" by Rochas was discontinued in all its forms, marking the end of an era for this classic fragrance. Despite its initial popularity and the elegance it brought to the perfume market, evolving consumer tastes and the introduction of new fragrances led to its phase-out. The discontinuation meant that the Parfum, Eau de Cologne, and Eau de Jeunesse, each beloved for their unique qualities and sophisticated presentations, were no longer available. The absence of "La Rose" left a void for its loyal followers who cherished its delicate rose scent and the luxurious packaging that epitomized mid-20th-century French perfumery. This discontinuation also highlighted the ever-changing landscape of the fragrance industry, where even the most cherished scents could fade away as new trends and innovations emerged.

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