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Monday, January 25, 2016

La Rose by Rochas c1949

 La Rose by Rochas: launched in 1949. Created by Edmond Roudnitska. Reformulated by Mme Thérèse Roudnitska.

The fragrance was available in Parfum (Extrait), Eau de Cologne and an Eau de Toilette cleverly called Eau de Jeunesse "Water of Youth".



At the cocktail party for the launch of the perfume, everything was hued in pink: the champagne, the biscuits, and the delectables included in the buffet - all to reflect the rose theme.
 
1949, Great party of the Paris season, music concert dedicated to the rose and chosen by Henri Sauguet, program decorated with a rose drawn by Jacques Dupont, pink buffet and champagne. Attending were: Elsa Schiaparelli, Simone Simon, Jacqueline Delubac; Princess Murat, Princess of Arenberg, Count and Countess Etienne de Beaumont, Baron and Baroness de Cabrol, etc.

  Art et la Mode, 1949:
"Is it a tribute to the flower, a baptism of perfume, or only one of those manifestations touching the perfection and so refined that they leave to the soul an almost painful nostalgia? The "concert-walk", established by Mr. Henri Sauguet, entirely devoted to the Rose, to which Monsieur and Madame Marcel Rochas had invited their many friends, in the magnificent setting of the Rose Garden at The Hague-les-Roses, was one of the most successful events of the Saison de Paris. The sky became very blue, until then pouting, showed radiant joy, and roses, all the roses, dazzling with beauty and perfume, responded to the admiration of which they were the object. Big names in all Paris to be sure not to omit one of the many personalities invited to their Garden Party by Madame and Marcel Rochas. This elegant and spiritual tribute to the marvelous and so French flower that is the "Rose", of which..."


Out of all his fragrances, this perfume was also said to be the personal favorite of Marcel Rochas.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, green notes, geranium leaves, lemon, apricot
  • Middle notes: plum, Bulgarian rose, sweet pea, lily of the valley, tea rose
  • Base notes: spices, musk, ambergris, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood


The New Yorker, 1949:
"Rochas' La Rose has a puzzling way of seeming on one skin to be entirely rose and on another to have a trace of sweet pea, lily of the valley, or some other garden flower, with always a hint of greenery."


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"La Rose de Rochas: Chemists have worked for more than fifteen years on this extract which contains a large proportion of natural essences. There is nothing to say about this excellent perfume except that it 'is' the Rose, this Rose which Apollinaire writes evokes the soft curve of a hip, and which he dedicates to Lou 'my rose oh my perfection I love you and it is with joy that I risk pricking myself in favor of your beauty '."


Harper's Bazaar, 1952:
"A gift of Roses perfume— Caron's delicate “La Fête des Roses”; Marcel Rochas' fresh-blooming “La Rose”; Patou's “Joy”—roses star-crossed with jasmine; Renoir's rich rose-noted “Futur."

Jet, 1952:
"One of the most sought after lines of French perfume in the world is now available to Americans. It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian "bouquets," each of which has wide appeal. "Femme," is the heaviest of the perfumes, and "Mousseline", a blend of jasmine, lavender and mimosa, the lightest. A more sensual perfume is "Mouche", suggestive of mosses, leaves, roots, and grasses. An exquisite fragrance called "La Rose" is described as "all rose." A perfume for men, called "Moustache," has a scent of the outdoors, -clean, crisp, windswept. These perfumes come in special gift packages designed by Rochas. Each package contains three one-quarter ounce bottles. Price: $22.50."


Realities, 1955:
"We recommend Lanvin's Arpege, Dior's Diorama and Rochas' Femme for all purposes. The French like Rochas' La Rose for aunts and Piguet's Bandit for sultry girl friends. Carven and Lanvin put out small sets of three scents for $2 to $3 per set."

The News Journal, 1960:
"When a man sends a woman Marcel Rochas' La Rose perfume, it can mean one thing "you are the rose of my life."  

House & Garden, 1970:
"La Rose, tender and true, by Marcel Rochas ($10 for one quarter of an ounce)."


Bottles: 


The Parfum, Eau de Cologne and the Eau de Jeunesse were all contained in the classic Rochas splash bottles. The Parfum and Eau de Cologne were packaged in boxes covered with the black chantilly lace motif on a pink background. The Eau de Jeunesse has a more simpler background of pink and a fine netted lace motif.

The Parfum housed in the classic crystal bottle was available in four sizes, prices ranged from $25, $22.50, $15, and $9 in 1949, by 1950 another size was available for $40. 
  • 1 oz Parfum bottle stands 3.5" tall.
  • No. 456 B - 0.5 oz Parfum bottle stands 3" tall
  • No. 454 - 0.25 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall.

To open the classic crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Marcel Rochas themselves in 1963:
Use a razor blade to slit the plastic casing that surrounds the top. Then heat the bottle neck with a match. 
Gebrauchsgraphik, 1954:
"As scents are highly favored as gift articles, specially luxurious bottles and fashionable wrappings appear in ever larger numbers on the market. Besides to the scent bottle itself, increasing attention is paid to the inside and outside get-up. The scintillating bottle containing the perfume is frequently embedded in padded and silk - lined cases which Marcel Rochas often even covers with genuine Chantilly lace. The color of the lining corresponds to the enclosed perfume, and, of course, the demands of the times are considered as well."


A purse bottle for the Parfum was made up of white opaline glass was covered with pink and black enamel. It was cylindrical in shape and had a brass screw cap. It stands 2.5" tall, has a volume of 1/8 oz. It has a round gold metallic label on the base with product information and "Made in Paris." Around the bottom label is raised lettering in the white glass that reads: "Marcel Rochas Paris."  It is considered hard to find today.



A special pink opaline glass bottle made for the Parfum, ovoid and flat in shape, was covered entirely with black Chantilly lace. This pretty flacon was housed inside of a little coin purse that one could carry in her own handbag. Bottle measures 2 1/2" tall. This bottle retailed for $22.50 in 1950. It is considered rare to find today by collectors.




The Cologne could also be had in a 1.5 oz spray bottle by 1962. The Cologne came in three sizes and ranged in price: $5, $8, $12.50 in 1949.
  • 6oz bottle stands 4.75" tall.


The Eau de Jeunesse was available in two sizes and retailed for $12.50 and $8 in 1949.
  • 4 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall.
  • 8 oz 





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued by 1973.

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