Expression by Jacques Fath, launched in 1977, arrived at a cultural crossroads, during a decade marked by both dramatic self-discovery and sweeping stylistic change. The name “Expression,” derived from the French word meaning the act of conveying thoughts, emotions, or identity, is pronounced ex-preh-syon in French and ex-PRESH-un in English. It evokes more than mere communication—it suggests a kind of artistic revelation, a personal declaration made tangible through scent. For a woman in 1977, choosing a fragrance named Expression would have signaled individuality, confidence, and a desire to be understood not only through words but through presence.
In choosing this name, Jacques Fath aligned the fragrance with the essence of the decade. The 1970s, often referred to as a period of liberation and experimentation, was defined by shifting gender roles, the rise of feminist voices, and an increasing interest in personal style over strict fashion codes. Fashion had turned bohemian and eclectic, embracing everything from fluid silhouettes to disco sparkle. In perfumery, these same currents gave rise to bold and layered compositions—fragrances that didn’t whisper but spoke clearly and with intent.
Raymond Chaillan’s creation for Fath—Expression—was a floral oriental fragrance rooted in a chypre base, a structure that was enjoying renewed interest in the '70s. The composition opened with fresh, vibrant florals, gently pulling the wearer in with a sense of uplift and clarity. This was no coy introduction; it was a bright unveiling of character. The heart unfolded into a more elegant and heady floral bouquet, a nod to traditional femininity, but still assured and full-bodied. The drydown settled into a sensual, powdery, and woody chypre accord—suggesting both warmth and sophistication. The presence of mossy or woody tones in the base gave it structure and grounded the composition, making it more than just a fleeting floral.