Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1896

Foin Coupe by Guerlain: created in 1896, also sold as "New Mown Hay".

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka c1997

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka: launched in 1997. Created by Annick Ménardo.

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute

Societe Francaise Des Produits De Beaute of Paris, France:

Guirlandes by Carven c1982

Guirlandes by Carven: launched in 1982. It was created for the young woman by Jean Guichard of Robertet.

Diamant Bleu by Gloria Vanderbilt c1946

The Gloria Vanderbilt Salon opened in 1946 at 15 East 60th Street, New York City on the first floor of the Chalom Art Gallery. The marble fronted salon was meant to be a dream showroom for the wholesale trade of the Gloria Vanderbilt Corporation's cosmetics, skincare and perfume line, in addition to some antiques and jewelry.

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon c1985

Maud Frizon by Maud Frizon: launched in 1985. This was the first fragrance by shoe designer, known for her amusing creations. 

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy c1924

Hallo Coco! by Jovoy: launched in 1924. The scent was available in both perfume and face powder.

I am unsure where they got the name for the perfume other than Coco was a popular name for parrots. however, a 1921 newspaper article in the Des Moines Register noted that "That Germany is flooding Paris with cocaine using women of the underworld to import the drug from Berlin, is the belief from Paris police, who have instituted a rigid investigation and expect to announce important arrests. One large boulevard cafe is the headquarters for selling narcotic, for which a charge of only a franc a gram is made. A cocaine seller was shot in the stomach Saturday evening by a policeman in Rue Caumartin, the seller of Paris. The drug venders always begin the conversation with prospective purchasers with "Hello, coco," which means "I've got cocaine to sell."

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain c1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain: launched in 1890. Created by Jacques Guerlain. The name means "The Good Old Times" and recalls the scents of the old potpourri jars (sweet jars) found in homes and the heavy musk worn by so many in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Bic Fragrances

Societe Bic, a company who makes low cost, but good quality disposable razors, lighters and pens brought out a fragrance collection in 1988 under the brand Parfums Bic.

The scents were developed by Firmenich in France and the collection originally included four fragrances: Jour, Nuit, Homme, and Sport.

Tweed by Lentheric c1933

Tweed by Lentheric: launched in France in 1933. It was not introduced in America until 1935.

Tweed was released under the name Risque Tout when exported to Europe, Central and South America.

L'Ardente Nuit by Corday c1930

L’Ardente Nuit by Corday: launched in 1930. The name means "The Fiery Night" in French. It was suggested to be worn with "rich fabrics and furs."

Prince George of Russia

The Prince George of Russia perfumery brand was founded by Martin de Markoff (aka Martin de Botelho). The full name of the brand was "The Perfumes of His Highness Prince George Kostantinovich Romanov of Russia, Inc. of New York, New York. This was established for the former Russian prince, George Constantine.

The company was associated with Markoff's other brands Ballarde Inc and Alexandra de Markoff.

In business until 1946.

Recital by F. Millot c1931

Recital by F. Millot: launched in 1931. Created by Jean Desprez.

Half Doll Boudoir Novelties Catalog Page

Here is a wonderful page from a 1926 catalog showing interesting half doll novelties in a variety of types. These feature the "Colonial Dame" brand or style composition heads. Most of these that we have seen were made in France. The half dolls were mounted on strong wire frames, have wavy wigs in colors of white, blonde, auburn and black. They are dressed in high quality materials and fabrics made up of rayon and silk taffeta with ornamental passementerie trimmings, some metallic. The fabric colors were chosen to work best in the boudoir in shades of "old rose", "copen" which is a soft blue, "orchid" and "tan". I suspect the entire ensemble was made and imported from France.

Parfumerie Brissac

Parfumerie Brissac was a French company established in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1917 by L. Aubert y Cía.  (L. Aubert y Compania, Jorge Newbery St. Buenos Aires). They were associated with Les Parfums Persans. Brissac was still in business in 1924.

Un jour le parfum, il etait une nuit by Sephora c1996

Un jour le parfum, il était une fois la nuit by Sephora: launched in 1996. Perfume created for the opening of Sephora on the Champs Elysées, the largest perfumery in the world on December 11, 1996 at midnight.

Madame de Carven c1979

Madame de Carven by Carven: launched in 1979.

Les Parfums Nelombo

Nelombo was established in 1931 by Les Laboratoires Dausse, Societe Anonyme, Paris, France . The name Nelombo is the common name of the Netumbium speciosum, a large pink water lily or lotus.

Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

Shanghai by Lentheric: launched in 1936. Originally named Cœur de Paris and launched in 1911. Cœur de Paris was renamed Shanghai in 1936 and was repackaged in a beautiful Chinese styled vase.

Pia by Dimitri c1977

Pia by Dimitri Ltd.: launched in 1977. The company Dimitri of Italy was created by Piero Dimitri.

Maria Pia was was an employee in the Dimitri firm in Italy before her marriage Piero, the famous Dimitri of Italy the first mens wear designer in the Coty Hall of Fame. Maria put her family responsibilities first, but remained involved in Dimitri's career. As the children grew up, Maria moved into the Dimitri fashion and design picture.

Eau de Rochas by Rochas c1970

Eau de Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1970. Nicolas Mamounas.

Asphodele by Lentheric c1926

Asphodele by Lentheric: launched in 1926, pronounced "As Fo Del". Asphodele refers to the species of daffodil (narcissus) that grow around the Mediterranean and a species growing on both the coasts of Brittany and Galicia. In the ancient times, the daffodils were often used to bloom the grave of the dead, where the legend of Asphodel Meadow , instead of Hades in Greek mythology . I have read that the actual asphodele plant has no scent.

Vent Vert by Balmain c1947

Vent Vert by Balmain: launched in 1947. Created by Germaine Cellier of Roure perfumers.

Les Parfums Dorilly

Les Parfums Dorilly was established in 1920 by M. Pommez at 4 rue de la Paix, Paris. Dorilly made luxury presentations in the 1920s. Later established the successful Parfums Marquay in 1947.

What is Parfum de Toilette?

I get numerous questions about fragrance concentrations from my readers. People seem to be confused about terms such as "Parfum de Toilettes", to answer your queries, here is my easy guide to tell you what they really are.

Let's break it down from the top with Parfum.
Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. A parfum may contain up to 20-30 percent oils and high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water. Vintage Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfums can be composed up of natural and synthetic ingredients, no matter if they are vintage or modern. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume. Any mixture lower in oils is known as an eau.

Next in concentration is the Eau de Parfum.

Eau de Parfum, also known as Esprit de Parfum, Secret de Parfum, Millesime, or Parfum de Toilette, is composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. Vintage Eau de Parfum, Esprit de Parfum, or Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils and were highly concentrated. Eau de Parfums usually last about 4-8 hours. 

Parfum de Toilette first started being used around 1960 by Coty, followed by Revillon, Caron, Nina Ricci Rochas, Salvador Dali, Le Galion, Jean Desprez, Weil, Houbigant, Worth, Craven, Dolce & Gabbana and other brands. The timeframe for Parfum de Toilette usage was 1960-2000. The last time I saw "Parfum de Toilette" advertised in a newspaper was 1989. 

Christian Dior had both "Esprit de Parfum" for the Poison line, Dune, Miss Dior, Dioressence, Diorissimo and "Secret de Parfum", mostly for Opium. Oscar de la Renta had an Esprit de Parfum for his signature fragrance Oscar. 

Orlane had a Secret de Parfum for their scent Fleurs d'Orlane, as did Guerlain as a limited edition for Shalimar. 

Creed uses Millesime. According to Creed, the house hand-selects the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each “Millesime”, or Creed fragrance. Millesime indicates that The House of Creed has hand-selected the very best crops - including blooms, fruits and spices - to create each Creed fragrance. Creed Millesime fragrances are blends that consist of the highest-quality concentration of infused essential oils made from raw materials. Millesime can also refer to their fragrances being hand-crafted by our Master Perfumer, Olivier Creed.. 

Today most brands use the term Eau de Parfum, most of the other terms were used in vintage fragrances. Creed still uses the term Millesime.

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Eau de Toilette: also called toilet water, is a much thinner dilution of the same materials, containing approximately only 4-10 percent of essential oils, in an even weaker alcohol and water mixture. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. Meant to be splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.


Lesser concentrations:


Eau de Cologne: for men or women, or aftershave, is further diluted, about 3-5 percent of essential oils, in an even still weaker alcohol and water mix. Usually lasts about 2 hours. Meant to be liberally splashed or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates. Used for toning and refreshing the skin after bathing.


Eau Fraiche: this is the weakest form of fragrance on the market, a light toilet water similar to cologne or splash usually with 1-3 percent of essential oil in water and a higher grade of alcohol. Usually lasts for less than an hour. Meant to be liberally reapplied throughout the day for a refreshing feeling. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Voile de Parfum: also known as Eau Parfumée, Voile d'Été, Eau Sans Alcool, Brume de Parfum, Perfume Mist, is a non-alcoholic fragrance diluted with water and about 3-8 percent essential oils. Typically used to be worn during the warmer months at the beach or in warmer climates.

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

Miracle by Lentheric was launched in 1924 and named after the Max Reinhardt play starring actress Diana Manners.

 Lentheric issued it's perfume alongside the U.S. premiere of the elaborate pantomime 'The Miracle', which opened at the Century Theatre in New York City on January 15, 1924. The back of the program had a full page advertisement for the perfume. The program was by Karl Vollmoeller, the score by Englebert Humperdinck, and the design by Norman Bel Geddes. Among the many illustrations, are two full-page ink and watercolor renderings of costumes by Norman Bel Geddes.

Colmy Parfums

Established by Edouard Colmant at 348 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; also owned Parfumerie E. Coudray.

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay c1960

Voulez Vous by D'Orsay: launched in 1960.

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan c1992

Donna Karan New York by Donna Karan: launched in September 1992. Created by Jean-Claude Delville and Pierre Wargnye.

Spurred by her husband Stephan Weiss' desire to leave a lasting legacy beyond her fashion house, Donna Karan entered the world of fragrance. Taking a cue from Coco Chanel, whose iconic fashion empire was revived by her perfume ventures, Karan's husband persuaded her with the eventual fact that "hemlines go up and down, but fragrance is forever".

Toujours Moi by Corday c1923

Toujours Moi by Corday: launched in 1923 in France, in USA by 1924. Toujours Moi (Always Me) started life as the favored incense used in the Notre Dame cathedral of France. Hundreds of years later in 1923, the great House of Corday translated that incense into a classic perfume which would be known as their signature fragrance.

Variations by Carven c1971

Variations by Carven: launched in 1971.

Allez Hop by Jovoy c1924

Allez Hop by Jovoy: launched in 1924.

CB Rocca

CB Rocca of Paris, France, launched a range of perfumes. Was owned by Clara Hirsch in 1946.

Ivoire de Balmain c1979

Ivoire de Balmain: launched in 1979. Created by Michel Hy and Francis Camail of Florasynth. Pierre Balmain stated that he was inspired by his lifelong "desire to create elegance and beauty for women."

Magic Beat by Max Factor c1986

In 1986, Max Factor released Magic Beat, it's trio of fragrances specifically designed for teenagers in conjunction with singer Michael Jackson.

Magic Beat was under a license from Michael Jackson to use his picture and signature in promoting the line. Entertainment Properties paid $18 million for the right to market the Michael memorabilia.

La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey c1924

La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey: launched in 1924. Originally created by Isabey's chief perfumer, Robert Bienaimé.

The fanciful name refers to the so-called Emerald Route. The route delivered precious stones and other valuables from the southern regions of Asia, to Iran and the Near East.

Anny Blatt

Anny Blatt, a French designer, famous for her knitwear clothing. She was one of the first to launch hand knitted clothing for women.

Youthful Secrets Formerly Fantasy Perfumes Designer Imposter Perfumes

Youthful Secrets (formerly Fantasy Perfumes) distributed their versions of popular perfumes, otherwise known as "designer imposter perfumes". The "Youthful Secrets" brand was sold by the Seta Corporation and was available to airline passengers at deeply discounted prices. One ounce bottles of these oil based knockoff perfumes sold for just $19.99 as opposed to much higher prices for their genuine designer counterparts. The Youthful Secrets line was trademarked in 1989.

These perfumes were only identified by a number so if you need to know which fragrance your numbered bottle was supposed to mimic, use my handy guide below.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric: launched in 1946.

Christian Lacroix by Christian Lacroix c1999

Christian Lacroix by Christian Lacroix: launched in 1999. The fragrance, created by Sophia Grojsman, is strongly inspired by Lacroix's native region of sunny Provence. 

It was first only available at Saks Fifth Avenue stores.