Laura Biagiotti by Laura Biagiotti c1982

Laura Biagiotti by Laura Biagiotti: launched in 1982. This was the first Laura Biagiotti perfume, it was later known as Fiori Bianchi (White Flowers) in 1991.

This fragrance was manufactured by Ellen Betrix and distributed in the United States by New York-based Accents and Essentials.

Calisher and Company Perfumes

AB Calisher & Co. was located at 112 Franklin Street New York. Established in 1893 by Aaron B. Calisher, Joseph H. Calisher and Nathan Calisher.

Poujol

Poujol was established by Gustav K. Poujol. The imported French perfume line was carried by Mandel Brothers in the USA.

In addition to perfumes, sachets, soap, talcum powder, toilet waters, Poujol also made cosmetics including face powder (and compacts), lipstick,  rouge, cleansing tissues.

Gustav Poujol died on February 3, 1913 at the age of 78 years old at his home at 520 Court Street, Reading, PA, following complications from an illness lasting over several months. He was born in France in 1835 and first came to America in 1868, settling first in Philadelphia and later resettled in Reading about five years later. He was a naturalized citizen of the United States. For 43 years he was employed by the TA Willson Spectacle Company and only just retired three years from active work before his death. He was also noted as a perfumer. He was survived by his widow, a son, Charles H. Poujol, of Hunt, MO, and a daughter, Mrs. Chester Gery of Reading. Other relatives included: Mrs. George Beal of Mt. Penn, PA; Mrs. James Prior, Trenton, NJ; and Mrs. Jacob Greenbaum of Lorraine. His funeral service was held at his late residence and the funerary sermon was preached by Rev. HC Lilly. Poujol had a private interment in an Alsace cemetery.

Poujol's perfumes were still being sold in 1935. I *think* that perhaps after Gustav Poujol passed away, the company may have been purchased by Mandel Brothers and became a subsidiary as I started seeing it called "Mandel's Poujol"perfume in early 1930s newspaper advertisements.

The perfumes of Poujol:

• 1923 Chypre
• 1923 Ambre Noir
• 1923 Origan d'Or
• 1923 Heliotrope
• 1923 Jolie Fleurs
• 1923 Peau d'Espagne
• 1923 Honeysuckle
• 1923 Wallflower
• 1923 Jockey Club
• 1923 Charme de Poujol 
• 1923 Trefle
• 1923 Oriental Bouquet
• 1923 Muguet
• 1923 Crabapple
• 1923 Violette
• 1923 Rose
• 1923 Mimosa
• 1923 Lilac
• 1923 Jasmin
• 1923 Ambre
• 1923 Narcisse/Narcissus
• 1925 Stilligan
• 1927 Orchidee
• 1929 Sweet Pea
• 1929 Magnolia
• 1929 Gardenia
• 1934 A
• 1934 B
• 1934 C

The bottles shown in the above advertisements were discontinued for the new style shown below.

Columbian Exposition 1893

"The World's Columbian Exposition (the official shortened name for the World's Fair: Columbian Exposition, also known as the Chicago World's Fair and Chicago Columbian Exposition) was a world's fair held in Chicago in 1893 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's arrival to the New World in 1492.

Organza by Givenchy c1996

Organza by Givenchy: launched in October 1996 during the Paris spring Pret-a-Porter. . Created by Sophie Labbe. The fragrance was inspired by the gauzy fabric.

White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor c1991

White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor: launched in 1991. Created by Carlos Benaim. (created by Sophia Grosjman of IFF).

Elizabeth Taylor fashioned a fragrance inspired by her well-known love of fine gems: White Diamonds.

Narcisse Perfume Bottles

Caron's Narcisse Noir was so popular that it spawned many imitations, including the shape of the bottle. Some competitors tried to copy the bottle as close as possible without breaking the copyright or trademark laws, while others were a bit more unique in design.

Collecting Blue Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of blue glass.

These elegant beauties were produced mainly during the 1920s-1950s and most have Art Deco influences. I know I don't have every one listed, if I missed one, let me know! Current values given below are for average book values and auction estimates. Why not start a collection focusing on just the blue glass bottles?

Rose Rouge by Catany: launched in the 1920s, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle, upright rectangular shape with thin profile, translucent blue glass stopper, button shape. Round gold label "ROSE ROUGE CATANY PARIS".Molded "FRANCE" on bottom. Produced by Cristalleries de Nancy.. Height 4.1 ins. / 10.4 cm.

Au Coeur des Calices by Coty: launched in 1913, pale blue glass bottle molded with design of flower petals and has a bee shaped stopper. Bottle by Rene Lalique.

Sol de Triana by Myrurgia: cobalt blue glass perfume bottle and molded floral stopper, ornate gold foil labels.  3 3/4".

Prince Matchabelli crown shaped perfume bottle and stopper in opaque blue glass with gilt detail. Marked Germany. 4". Used for various Matchabelli perfumes.

Nuit d'Amour by Godet: launched in 1925, transparent cobalt blue glass bottle with silver enamel. base acid etched France.

Dans la Nuit by Worth:launched in 1920, round disk shaped bottle with disk stopper molded with crescent moon and perfume name or with stars, by Lalique. Other variations of this bottle exist.

Jicky by Guerlain: launched in 1936 , cobalt blue glass "lanterne" bottle with clear glass stopper. Bottle was inspired by the arc lights of Paris. This bottle was also used for other Guerlain scents. In the photo below, the label is applied incorrectly, it should be on the base of the bottle.

Lucretia Vanderbilt by Lucretia Vanderbilt: launched in 1925, cobalt blue cased glass bottle, blue dauber-stopper, metal base and neck chain with silver butterfly logo. Same bottle was used for Blue Sky by Mori, also in the 1920s. 1925 Lucretia Vanderbilt Lucretia Vanderbilt cased blue glass perfume bottle

Lune de Miel by Benoit: launched in 1926, rare opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with crescent moon face and stars in silver finish,bottle by Depinoix.

Leda by Raffy: launched in 1925, cobalt blue glass bottle, nearly identical to the one for Lucretia Vanderbilt and Mori's Blue Sky perfume, but has a blue and silver foil paper label in the center reading "Raffy".

Blue Waltz by Joubert: launched in 1929, cobalt blue glass bottle with silver labels.

Parfum Pour Blondes by Lionceau: launched in 1927, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with molded floral decoration. Botte made by H. Saumont.

Lilac by Prince Alexis N. Gagarin: launched in the 1920s, cobalt blue glass bottle, bottle has gilt enameled design of a crown and coat of arms, the stopper molded as the Russian Imperial double eagle and enameled in gold. This bottle was used for other Gagarin perfumes. Stands 3 3/4" tall.

Chance by Cherigan: launched in 1929, in opaque pearlescent blue glass bottle, with applied glass horseshoe and black glass stopper in silver gilt. Ht. 3 1/4 in (8 cm)

Je Reviens by Worth: launched in 1931, light cobalt blue glass bottle, cylindrical shape, fluted sides, by Lalique. Various sizes.

Canarina by Canarina: launched in 1928. Rene Lalique, Les Deux Bleus perfume bottle and dauber-stopper, blue glass, molded label and “eye” motif, molded Lalique mark. 2".

Blue Sky by Mori: launched in the 1920s, cobalt blue perfume bottle with the original “peacock tail” blue glass stopper that has a nice extended dauber. Base marked “France” and an obscure mark beneath. A factory “Parfum Francais” sticker is on one side and a “Blue Sky Parfum by Mori” paper label is on the other side. Stands 4 1/4" tall.

Evening in Paris by Bourjois: launched in 1926, cobalt blue glass bottles in various shapes and sizes.

Worth perfume atomizer, blue glass with star pattern. Signed Lalique. H. 5 inches. This might be fake.

Chu Chin Chow by Bryenne: launched in 1921, perfume bottle and inner stopper, cobalt blue glass, milk glass cover, gilt and enameled detail, labeling and signed G.K. Benda on bottom. 2 1/2" tall.

Springtime in Paris by Bourjois: launched in 1931, turquoise blue glass bottle, similar to the Evening in Paris bottles.

La Danse des Fleurs by Delettrez: launched in the early 1930s,  perfume bottle and stopper, cobalt blue glass, gilt details, snakeskin pattern box. 3 3/4" tall.

Heure Exquise by Breyenne: launched in 1924, blue glass bottle with gilt detail and labeled on base, in blue and gilt box with blue velvet cushion interior, 2 1/2" h x 3 1/2" w x 7/8" d.

Peking Moonlight by Oriental: launched in the 1920s, opaque turquoise blue glass.

Miracle by Lentheric: presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, clear for Asphodele, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4"  tall.

Argentina by Marques de Elorza: launched in 1929, cobalt blue glass bottle,  silver gilt detail. 4 1/8".

Jasmin by Divine: launched in 1930, cobalt blue glass bottle, black bakelite screw cap.

Coque d'Or by Guerlain: launched in 1938, cobalt blue bowtie shaped bottle by Baccarat, came in three sizes. Bottle was also gilded, and used for the perfumes Kriss and Dawamesk.

Nuit Etoilee de Bagdad by Diamant Bleu: launched in 1927, cobalt blue glass bottle by Societe Parisienne de Verreries (SPV), Julien Viard design.

Le Debut Bleu by Richard Hudnut: launched in 1927, opaque blue octagonal bottle with black stopper. Do not confuse this bottle with the 1980s bottle of similar design for Lou Lou by Cacharel.

Aveu D'Amour by Augusta Bernard: launched in the 1920s-1930s, cobalt glass bottle with clear frosted stopper.

Wild Jasmine by The House of Fragrance, Bermuda: launched in 1930, opaque turquoise blue glass bottle with transparent blue glass stopper. Bottle by Cristal Nancy.


Cocktail Hour by The Perfume Garret, Chicago: launched in 1940. Cobalt blue bottle molded with six sides with molded curlicues, arched shoulders, cobalt blue glass button stopper. Gold foil label. Bottle stands 3" tall.

Les Parfums de Suzy

Established by Madame Suzy Michaud at 5 rue de Paix, Paris. She worked as a milliner in Paris and launched a range of fragrances in the late 1930s and early 1940’s. Her brand was associated with Macy's.

Bill Blass by Bill Blass c1978

Bill Blass for Women by Bill Blass: launched in 1978.

Colgate Perfumes

Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

1806:
Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
1857:
After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
1873:
Toothpaste is first marketed.
1896:
Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
1898:
B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
1910:
Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
1926:
Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
1928:
Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
1947:
Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
1953:
Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
1956:
Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
1966:
Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
1967:
Sales top $1 billion.
1968:
Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
1976:
Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
1987:
The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
1992:
The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
1995:
Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
1997:
Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
2004:
Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.



Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.

Niki de Saint Phalle c1982

"dangerous but worth the risk..."

Niki de Saint Phalle was launched in 1982 in association with Jacqueline Cochran, Inc..

Depose and Deponiert: and other French and German marks

This guide with help you translate some of the most common words that are found or may be found on French or German antiques and vintage collectibles.

Occasionally in the world of antiques, you may come across a mark, DEP, which could mean either Depose or Deponiert. This mark is commonly found on German or French bisque dolls, celluloid,  porcelain, jewelry, glass or metal goods. Dep stands for the German word Deponiert which means registered, or copyright. Dep is also a shortened form of Depose which is French for registered.

Without knowing a manufacturer or country of origin, it is safe to say that if your item is marked DEP, it is most likely of French or German manufacture.

Here is a short list of other words related to patents or other markings found on German antiques:

• Angestrichen mit der Hand: handpainted
• Besteuern Sie Steuer: excise tax

Sometimes DEP is accompanied by GES to form the following mark DEP/GES, the GES is an abbreviated form of the word Geschutz, if you see this mark, your piece is of German origin. Sometimes people think that Geschutz is a manufacturer, in reality it only means "protected against copying" in German.

• DRGM, a German patent mark that stands for Deutsches Reich Geschmacksmuste
• DRP is German for Deutsches Reich Patent
• Fabrikmarke: factory mark
• Frankreich: France
• Gegr. : an abbreviated form of the word gegrundet which means established/founded
• Gebruder: brothers
• Ges. Gesch. : abbreviated form of Gesetzlich Geschutzt: legally protected, patented, copyrighted
• Ges. Mbh: company or corporation
• Glashuttenwerk: glassworks factory
• Glassmanufaktur: glassworks factory
• Hochfeine: fine quality/high quality
• Juwelier: jeweler
• Kristall: crystal
• Kunststoff: plastic
• Kupfer: copper
• Musterschutz: copyright
• Papierstoff: papier mache
• Porzellanfabrik: porcelain factory, this mark is sometimes on the back of dinnerware.
• Abteilung: department
• Schutzmarke: trade mark
• Silber: silver
• Steingurfabrik: stoneware factory
• Tschechoslowake: Czechoslovakia
• Verboten: prohibited
• Waschbar: washable
• Werkstatte: workshop/studio
• West Germany: used from 1948-1991 (useful in dating vintage costume jewelry)
• Zelluloid: celluloid
• Zettel: label
• Zinn: tin/pewter
• Zoll Abteilung: customs department

Here is a short list of other words related to patents found on French antiques:

• Alliage: alloy
• Antiquité: antique
• Argent: silver
• Atelier: studio
• Brevete: this word is commonly found on French items and some people mistake it fo a manufacturers marking, but it simply means patented.
• Bté. SGDG: means "patented." It is shortened from the phrase Breveté Sans Garantie du Gouvernement  which means "Patented without State Guarantee."
• Cie./Compagnie: company
• Cristallerie: glass factory
• Cuivre: copper
• Cuivre jaune: brass
• Decore a la main: hand decorated
• Decore par: decorated by
• Département de douanes: customs department
• Depose: registered
• Drapier: clothier
• Email: enamel/paint
• Etain: tin
• Et Fils: and Son
• Etats Unis: United States
• Exciser l'impôt: excise tax
• Exportation: export
• Fabrique Par: manufactured by
• Grand Magasin: department store
• Impôt: tax
• Joaillier: jeweler
• le Celluloïd: celluloid
• le Plastique: plastic
• Marque déposée: trademark
• Marque de Fabrique: this word means trade mark.
• Millésime: vintage
• Métal: metal
• Modele Depose: Registered Design
• Or: gold
• Orfevre: silversmith
• Peint à la Main: hand painted
• Porcelaine Fabrique: porcelain factory, sometimes found on the back of dinnerware.
• Ste. : an abbreviation for Societe
• Tcheqoslovaquie: Czechslovakia
• Vendeur: seller
• Verrier: glassworker
• Verrerie: glass works factory

Uninhibited by Cher c1988

"Uninhibited. Bottled, but not contained."

In 1988 Cher decided to introduce her own line of perfume. Called “Uninhibited,” a name that seemed quite appropriate for Cher, the line debuted with much fanfare that year. Distributed by Parfums Stern in association with Avon.

Audace by Rochas c1936

Audace by Rochas: launched in 1936. Pronounced "oh-doss'. The perfume was created by Marcel Rochas. The couturier was fond of saying that, "One should notice the scent of a woman before even seeing her."

Mai by Shiseido c1968

Mai by Shiseido: launched in 1968.

Parce Que! by Roberto Capucci c1963

Parce Que! by Roberto Capucci: launched in 1963.

Madame by Philippe Venet c1968

Madame by Philippe Venet: launched in 1968.

La Perla by La Perla c1987

La Perla by La Perla: launched in 1987. The perfume was created by Pierre Wargyne, perfumer from IFF in 1987.

Feerie by Rigaud c1938

Feerie by Rigaud: launched in 1938. Also labeled as Feerie Moderne.

Silver Alloy Marks and Trade Names

In this guide I will outline the numerous silver alloy marks and trade names that have been used throughout the world on antiques and collectibles.

Many of these marks can confuse the buyer, dealer or collector if they aren't knowledgeable in the different trade names and alloys.

Please note that these markings and trade names are not for sterling silver. I have listed as many trade names and types of alloys as I can find.

Breathless by Charbert c1933

Breathless by Charbert was launched in 1933.

Deborah International

In the 1980's, Omni was launched as a bargain designer impression fragrance by Deborah Richman and distributed under the brand Deborah International.

Other perfumes in the Deborah International line included her versions of popular fragrances of the day:

• Gypsy/Georgi Girl (Giorgio)
• Hemlock (Halston)
• Omni (Opium)
• Enamoured (Obsession)
• Kleo (Chloe)
• Leora (Lauren)
• Olivia (Oscar de la Renta)
• Adore Adore (Anais Anais)
• Tamarind (Shalimar)
• Forever Innocence (White Linen)
• Satin & Lace/Satin Glass  (White Shoulders)
• Immortal (Joy)
• Gypsy Rose (Giorgio Red)
• Wisdom (Knowing)
• Everlasting (Eternity)
• Winds (Wings)
• Sahara (Safari)
• Miz (Liz Claiborne)
• Secret Potion (White Diamonds)
• Abstractions (Realities)
• Passages (Red Door)

Fragrances for Men:

• Aegean (Aramis)
• Player (Polo)
• Hunter (Halston Z-14)
• Prince (Giorgio for Men)
• Jaguar/Jagged (Drakkar Noir)
• Everlasting (Eternity for Men)
• Magnet (Obsession for Men)
• King of Hearts (Giorgio Red for Men)

She boasted to People Magazine that her products contained the same oils and essences as those of her competitors. “Everything I do is first class,” says Richman. “Estée Lauder doesn’t spend any more on her components than I do.” Richman turned to Quality King, a large distributor of drugstore products that agreed to invest $5 million in her venture. Then she hired one of the top perfume formulators in the world.

Graffiti by Roberto Capucci c1963

Graffiti by Roberto Capucci: launched in 1963.

Help! My Perfume Has Sediment or is Dark

I have had the floaties in some of my old perfumes too, which is mainly due to the decomposition process of the perfume. If you collect vintage perfume you will notice some of the resins that collect in the bottom of the bottle.The sediment is actually the natural oils and essences coagulating as they start to break down. The alcohol and water inside will probably start to evaporate slowly over time and you will be left with a thick, syrupy concentrated perfume residue inside.

This is normal, particularly if your scent contains natural materials. It is caused by the continued settling over time. It is a process that happens from the disintegration and oxidation of the natural perfume ingredients and evaporation of the alcohol/water mixture. Also some (some naturals in particular) aren't completely soluble in alcohol and or water and can make their way into bottles and settle after some time of remaining still.

Natural absolutes such as jasmine absolute, which upon ageing DOES produce sediment. The book Modern Technology of Perfumes, Flavours & Essential Oils (2nd Edition) mentions that jasmine's "absolute darkens on ageing becoming deep red and deposits a greyish sediment following prolonged storage."

True cold pressed bergamot oil can contain wax sediment and a dark green brown cloudy colour. Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol. It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking.

Resins, gums and balsams will eventually ball up and float in the perfume too. Benzoin essential oil is resinous and thick and becomes more so as it ages, as does myrrh and frankincense. Essential oils produced from resins and woods tend to be thicker in viscosity. Some plant based ingredients such as patchouli, marigold, vetiver and vanilla also age into thickened resinous compounds. Some of these thicker oils can start to decompose in the perfume and coagulate, forming small dark colored balls as the water and alcohol in the perfume start evaporating. This is the beginning of the end of your perfume. If you start to notice these, you best try to finish your perfume before it completely evaporates into that syrup I mentioned before.

So to find sediment in sealed vintage perfumes is going to be a natural occurrence due to the natural ingredients used.

Now the clouding could also be natural breakdown of ingredients as well as I have had newer spray perfumes that I purchased factory sealed from authorized retailers, and somehow the clouding and or sediment process started without any tampering of the contents. Clouding in splash bottles can also mean that the perfume had water added to it to make the bottle appear more full, however, the clouding will not completely clear. If you have clouding in your spray bottles,check around the collar of the bottle to be sure it was not tampered with or removed and replaced at one time.

In the case of factices (dummy) bottles, the sediment and floaties are actually particles of bacteria from the water used in the liquid. Bacteria will not grow in bottles that contain alcohol.


With all the talk of perfumes changing color, I made a quick guide here to help explain why your scent has changed.

Essential oils tend to darken with age via a process of oxidation. if you perfume has these components, it will absolutely darken as it ages. Some of these ingredients turn dark yellow, red or brown as they age.

If an ingredient contains a a phenol as a component, and are highly subject to oxidation, thus it will darken, or redden, with age. A phenol odor is typically medicinal in character. Phenols can smell pungent and spicy such as eugenol, the characteristic odor of clove. Eugenol occurs in other natural oils such as ylang ylang, cinnamon and rose.

These natural ingredients will darken with age:

• absinthe
• angelica
• anise
• arnica
• basilic
• caraway
• celery
• chamomile
• cinnamon bark
• clove bud oil
• estragole
• eugenol
• expressed bergamot
• ginger
• jasmine absolute
• juniper
• karo-karunde
• labdanum
• lavender
• lemon
• mint
• myrrh
• neroli
• orange blossom
• pennyroyal
• pepper
• peppermint
• pimento
• rhodium
• rosewood
• rue
• sage
• sandalwood
• sassafras 
• spearmint
• spikenard
• sweet marjoram
• tansy
• thyme
• valerian
• vanilla
• ylang ylang

Miss Zadig by Emilio Pucci c1973

Miss Zadig by Emilio Pucci: launched in 1973.

Offenthal

Offenthal of Paris.

Lucienne Offenthal was a purse maker established at 24 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1925. Sold perfume under the "Pompadour" name in the 1920s - 1930s. Launched Ce Soir ou Jamais.

The "Pompadour" shop was 78 Champs Elysées, Paris. (in 1929)

vintage, c. 1924, "Ce Soir ou Jamais" perfume presentation from Offenthal, Paris. The champagne bottle sits in a French trunk box. There is a paper in the box that reads: "A Merry Christmas from David and Blum Inc."  The cover was hinged originally, but now detached. Inside is satin with a few minor stains. The 3 1/2" high bottle has a label on the front that reads: "Ce Soir ou Jamais." Another label toward the base, but on the side of the bottle reads: "Offenthal, Paris." Images from worthpoint.

David & Blum were glove importers from New York.

The Glovers Review, Volume 29, 1929:

"Andre David, Norman Blum and Joseph Isaacs, of David & Blum, Inc., glove importers of New York, together with Jacques Frankel, former merchandise manager with Franklin Simon & Company, have organized Pompadour Toiletries, sole American distributors of a French perfume, "Ce Soir ou Jamais."