Eisenberg

Eisenberg of Chicago, IL, was a renowned name in the American fashion and beauty industry, known for its glamorous costume jewelry, clothing, and, by 1941, an equally sophisticated line of perfumes and cosmetics. The company’s offerings were exclusive, with its products available only in select department stores across major American cities. This approach ensured that each city had a single retailer carrying Eisenberg's complete collection, adding an air of exclusivity and prestige to the brand.

The fragrance line included four custom scents, each packaged with an eye for style and elegance that matched the brand’s reputation. The perfumes were designed to be as refined and fashionable as Eisenberg’s jewelry and garments, creating a complete sensory experience for customers. The company’s fragrances, along with its luxurious cosmetics, were a perfect complement to the upscale image Eisenberg cultivated through its fashion and accessories, catering to a clientele that valued sophistication, exclusivity, and high-quality craftsmanship.

Ellyn Deleith Parfums

Ellyn Deleith, Inc. was an American company based in New York City established in 1936. They produced several fragrances including their best known, Blue Flame.

In the early 1940s, Ellyn Deleith introduced a line of exquisite fragrances that captured the imagination of women seeking luxury and elegance during a time of global uncertainty. Deleith sourced high-quality oils and essences from Europe and other regions renowned for their perfumery expertise. These rare ingredients, carefully selected for their richness and complexity, were blended in America with domestic alcohol, creating a unique fusion of international sophistication and local craftsmanship. The result was a line of perfumes that offered a sensory escape into realms of luxury, blending exotic imports with the strength and spirit of American ingenuity.

The name Deleith chose for her collection, "Moods of Crystals," reflected both the emotional depth and visual splendor of the fragrances. Each perfume was housed in a glittering cut-glass bottle imported from Czechoslovakia, known for its exceptional craftsmanship in glassmaking. These bottles were more than just containers; they were jewels in their own right, symbolizing the dazzling and transformative power of scent. The facets of the crystal bottles caught the light, reflecting the sparkling essence of the fragrances inside, adding a layer of glamour that enhanced the overall experience. The decision to use imported crystal emphasized Deleith’s commitment to luxury, creating perfumes that were as beautiful to behold as they were to wear.

With its roots in both Europe and America, the "Moods of Crystals" line embodied the cosmopolitan spirit of the time. Ellyn Deleith’s vision brought together the best of global perfumery, crafting scents that captured different moods and atmospheres, each one a reflection of the multifaceted lives of the women who wore them. The introduction of this line during the early 1940s offered a touch of glamour and emotional resonance at a time when many were seeking beauty and comfort in everyday luxuries

Paul Jones Fine Perfumes of Honolulu

Paul Jones Fine Perfumes of Honolulu, Hawaii, was a notable enterprise in the fragrance industry from at least 1939 until 1950, as evidenced by newspaper advertisements and articles. The company, established by Paul Jones, originally from Piedmont, California, drew inspiration from the lush and exotic scents of the Hawaiian Islands, despite Jones never having visited them personally. His connection to the islands was deeply influenced by the evocative works of Don Blanding, particularly Blanding's "Hula Moons" and the alluring brochure “Hawaii via Aromas.” Blanding's poetic descriptions, such as “If moonlight were fragrant it would smell like white ginger,” painted a vivid sensory picture that captivated Jones’s imagination.

Background:

Paul Jones was a research expert for Balbour-Guthrie & Co. and had previously worked as a chemist on developing new insecticides for Shell Oil Company. His scientific background was extensive, being a fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science and a member of the American Chemical Society and the Society of Economic Entomology before transitioning to perfumery. 

Jones, having left his position as a chemist for Shell Oil, was driven by a passion to recreate the enchanting aromas of the South Seas. In a small rented house in Porterville, California, where he set up a makeshift laboratory in the garage, he began his journey into perfumery. It was here that he developed his first fragrance, Amber Estrellita, a tribute to his wife. The name "Estrellita", meaning "little star" in Spanish, was a nod to the famed Spanish dancer, Estrellita, who was among the pioneering performers to introduce the hula dance professionally. Born Stella Hurtig in 1879 and marrying Paul Jones in 1920, she was a central figure in Jones's life and his source of inspiration for his early perfumes.

Paul and Estrellita Jones purchased their home in Piedmont in 1939, around the same time Jones was making a name for himself in the fragrance world. Estrellita shared that their home at 237 Bonita Avenue, Piedmont, CA, had become a veritable perfume laboratory, with the perfume production taking up nine rooms of the house. This dedication to their craft and the scale of their operation underscored their commitment to creating unique and memorable scents, each with its own story and emotional resonance.

While Paul Jones worked diligently on creating his perfumes in the basement laboratory of their Piedmont home, Estrellita Jones took charge of the artistic and commercial aspects of their business. With a keen eye for design, she crafted the bottles, boxes, and labels for the perfumes, ensuring that each product was not only a sensory delight but also a visual one. Her attention to detail extended to the elegant presentation of the bottles, each adorned with handmade silk chiffon leis, which added a touch of exotic charm and sophistication.

His dedication to capturing the essence of Hawaiian fragrances and the influence of his wife's name reflected the personal and artistic dimensions of his work. Despite the geographic and personal distances, Jones’s creations successfully bridged his inspirations with the sensorial experiences he sought to convey through his perfumes.

For his efforts, Paul Jones earned the prestigious title of "the best nose in America" from Dr. Sam Isermann, head of Van Dyck Chemical Companies, a testament to his exceptional olfactory abilities. It was said that Jones could identify up to 7,500 different scents, showcasing his extraordinary skill and dedication to the art of perfumery. His commitment to perfection was evident in his meticulous approach to creating fragrances. He was known to spend extensive periods refining his formulas until he achieved the perfect blend. For instance, it took him a decade to perfect the formula for his signature scent, Amber Estrellita, reflecting his unwavering dedication to quality.

Don Blanding, a close friend and collaborator, took a keen interest in the Jones' venture. He showcased their work at a garden show he produced, lending his artistic and literary prestige to their perfume line. In Carmel's magazine, the Pine Cone, Blanding described Paul Jones as "a scientist with a romantic imagination," highlighting the unique blend of scientific rigor and creative passion that defined Jones' work.  

Jones described himself as an "orchestrator of scents," a fitting label that captured his role in harmonizing various aromatic components into a cohesive and captivating fragrance. This self-description highlighted his deep understanding of the subtleties of perfumery and his ability to blend ingredients with the precision of a conductor leading an orchestra.

Estrellita's nephew provided further insight into Jones's expertise, noting that he possessed a profound knowledge of perfumery techniques. He was well-versed in distinguishing between complex ingredients like ambergris and civet, understanding the nuances of aging both perfume and alcohol to enhance their characteristics. Jones's mastery of these elements was complemented by his collaboration with Dr. Isermann, which significantly advanced his skills in perfume creation.

Despite his technical prowess, it was Estrellita who often had the final say on the fragrance's quality. Her discerning nose and keen sense of what constituted the perfect scent meant that she would frequently challenge and refine Jones's creations, ensuring that each fragrance met her exacting standards. Her critical input played a crucial role in achieving the refined and evocative scents that defined Paul Jones Fine Perfumes.

By 1949, the Jones' had developed over 600 kinds of perfumes and registered 60 of them with the government, including a line of eight perfumes reminiscent of Hawaii. 

Marketing:

Estrellita's influence was also evident in the naming of the fragrances. She selected names that were both feminine and romantic, reflecting her vision of perfume as an evocative, rather than merely alluring, experience. One such name was Ua Lani, which translates to "Heavenly Mist" in Hawaiian. This choice of names was a deliberate departure from the provocative and often sensational titles used by major perfume companies of the time. Estrellita viewed these seductive names and claims of "sin" as not only misleading but also as undermining the true essence of perfume. For her, the true allure of a fragrance lay in its ability to evoke cherished memories and emotions, rather than relying on superficial or sensational marketing tactics.

Paul Jones believed that an impersonal perfume could become highly individualistic according to the bodily chemistry of the wearer. He remarked, "It evokes different pictures for each person. To one person 'sin' might seem an appropriate name while another might choose 'green pasture.'" This philosophy underlined his approach to perfumery, where the scent was a deeply personal experience, varying from person to person.

Estrellita's philosophy was clear and impactful: "The only charm of perfume is the power it has to evoke memories." This perspective guided her in creating an authentic and heartfelt collection of fragrances, making each one a personal tribute to the romanticism and elegance she believed should be at the heart of perfumery. Through her meticulous designs and thoughtful approach, Estrellita Jones played a crucial role in shaping the identity and success of Paul Jones Fine Perfumes.

Paul and Estrellita Jones held a distinct aversion to large-scale advertising, choosing instead to avoid the flashy slogans and risque imagery common in the perfume industry of their time. Their promotional strategy leaned towards subtlety, utilizing small snippets in newspapers to maintain a refined and understated presence. This minimalist approach mirrored their preference for personal engagement over broad, impersonal marketing campaigns.

Their primary method of promotion relied on word of mouth within their circle of friends and business associates. Paul and Estrellita often hosted intimate perfume-smelling sessions at their Piedmont home. These gatherings were more than mere product demonstrations; they were social events that showcased Estrellita's charisma and the elegance of their perfumes. Dressed in dazzling costumes, Estrellita became the star of these occasions. Her attire was a vivid spectacle: her shoulders were draped in rare Spanish shawls, and she wore her favorite black hat adorned with a striking red rose. Each outfit was complemented by exotic elements such as sequined mantillas, ornate jewelry, and prized hair combs made of jade, tortoiseshell, and jet.

Adding to the theatrical flair, Estrellita would bring out cherished memorabilia from her dancing days, including lacy Spanish fans, castanets, finger cymbals, and vividly colored silk stockings. This blend of visual and sensory stimulation created an enchanting atmosphere that captivated her guests. Her magnetic personality and the elaborate, evocative setting ensured that attendees left with not only fond memories but often with bottles of Paul Jones' fine perfumes in hand. For those who were particularly fortunate, they might even receive the perfumes as gifts, further cementing the personal touch and enduring charm that Paul and Estrellita brought to their business.

Paul and Estrellita Jones were resolutely uninterested in the mass production of their perfumes. Despite the allure of lucrative deals from large companies seeking to purchase in bulk and re-bottle the fragrances under their own names, the Joneses consistently turned down such proposals. Their commitment was to maintain the exclusivity and artisanal quality of their creations, which they preferred to distribute through a select group of dealers rather than broad, impersonal channels.

Their approach was intentionally intimate, focusing on a few distinguished shops where their perfumes could be appreciated and savored. This selective distribution allowed their customers to experience a piece of paradise captured within each bottle. For many, especially those who had visited Hawaii, the perfumes served as cherished mementos, evoking memories of their tropical travels and the unique allure of the islands.

A distinctive feature of their perfume labels was the marking with "TH," an abbreviation for the Territory of Hawaii. This designation was a nod to the period before Hawaii became a U.S. state in 1959, adding an extra layer of nostalgia and historical charm to the products. This subtle detail not only reflected the geographical origins of their inspiration but also underscored the Joneses' commitment to preserving the authentic spirit of their Hawaiian-themed fragrances.

An Unfortunate End:

In a tragic turn of events, Paul Jones, the renowned perfumer behind the exquisite fragrances of his namesake brand, suffered severe injuries in his perfume lab. While distilling alcohol—a delicate process involving the careful heating of spirits—some of the liquid splashed near a Bunsen burner. The resultant flames quickly caught on his trousers, leading to catastrophic burns on his legs. Given Paul's compromised immune system due to diabetes, his ability to recover from such injuries was significantly diminished. The burns, coupled with his weakened state, ultimately proved fatal, and Paul Jones passed away in 1955.

In the aftermath of this devastating event, the legacy of Paul Jones' work continued through the efforts of his widow, Estrellita. Following Paul’s death, Estrellita's heir, her nephew Frank Tinney, took steps to preserve the memory of her husband's contributions to the world of perfume. The remaining items from the perfume factory, including bottles, labels, and other artifacts, were generously donated to the Oakland Museum. This gesture ensured that the artistry and innovation of Paul Jones' perfumes were not lost to history but were instead honored and preserved for future generations to appreciate and study. The donation reflects a lasting commitment to celebrating the craftsmanship and dedication that defined Paul Jones' career and the enduring legacy of his contributions to the world of fragrance.

The perfumes of Paul Jones:

• 1935 Ambre Estrellita
• 1935 My Sweet
• 1935 One More Spring
• 1935 Paradise
• 1935 Pikaki/Pikake Intense
• 1935 Some Enchanted Evening
• 1935 Pine Cones of Carmel
• 1935 Seaward
• 1937 Unconquered
• 1939 White Ginger of Hawaii
• 1939 Flower Lei
• 1941 Aloha Nui
• 1941 A Night To Remember
• 1941 Huapala
• 1941 Tropical Fruit
• 1941 Kieli
• 1941 Pono Moi
• 1941 Ua Lani  
• 1946 Honi-Honi
• 1960 Cologne-centrate
• Happiness (the re-branded Poni Moi)

The Perfumes:

Paul and Estrellita Jones created a line of eight perfumes that evoked the essence of Hawaii. This collection was a testament to Paul Jones' expertise and dedication to capturing the unique fragrances of the islands. Each bottle was adorned with dainty leis made of chiffon, a touch that added authenticity and charm, directly linking the perfumes to Hawaiian culture. These delicate leis were not just decorative; they were a part of the Jones' specialty, a signature of their meticulous attention to detail and their desire to offer an immersive experience.

The floral notes in this Hawaiian line were carefully selected to represent the diverse and vibrant flora of the islands. Gardenias, known for their rich and intoxicating scent, provided a lush, creamy foundation. Carnations added a spicy, clove-like fragrance, bringing depth and complexity to the blends. Jasmines, with their sweet and exotic aroma, infused the perfumes with a heady, floral richness. Night-blooming cereus, a flower that emits a powerful fragrance under the moonlight, contributed a mysterious and enchanting note. White ginger, with its spicy and slightly sweet scent, was a standout element that required three years of perfection to capture accurately. Paul Jones' dedication to refining the aroma of ginger exemplified his commitment to excellence and authenticity.

Each perfume in the Hawaiian line was a result of Paul Jones' extensive knowledge and skill as a perfumer. His ability to orchestrate these natural essences into harmonious blends showcased his expertise and creativity. Estrellita's contribution to the design and presentation of the perfumes ensured that each bottle was a work of art, reflecting the beauty and allure of Hawaii.

The time and effort invested in perfecting these fragrances paid off, as the perfumes were not just products but experiences that transported the wearer to the lush landscapes and fragrant gardens of Hawaii. The Jones' Hawaiian line was more than just a collection of scents; it was a tribute to the islands' natural beauty and a testament to the couple's passion for creating perfumes that evoked vivid memories and emotions.

Flowery Lei:

The perfume Flowery Lei was designed to capture the essence of Honolulu, blending the scents of various tropical flowers into a single, harmonious fragrance. Described as a "composite fragrance of all the flowers," Flowery Lei aimed to evoke the first impression of Hawaii with its rich, floral aroma. This perfume sought to embody the romance and allure of the islands, intertwining the delicate and varied scents that characterize Hawaii's vibrant flora.

In Hawaiian culture, leis hold significant cultural and symbolic importance. A lei is a traditional Hawaiian garland or necklace made from a variety of materials, including flowers, leaves, shells, or feathers. These adornments are often given as a symbol of love, honor, or celebration. They are commonly presented during significant occasions such as weddings, graduations, and welcoming ceremonies. The act of draping a lei around someone's neck is a gesture of warmth and respect, embodying the spirit of aloha that pervades Hawaiian hospitality.

The importance of leis extends beyond their ceremonial use. They represent the beauty and natural abundance of Hawaii, with each lei often crafted from local flora that reflects the island's unique environment. Flowers such as plumerias, orchids, and hibiscus are frequently used, each contributing its distinct fragrance and visual appeal. The leis symbolize a connection to the land and its rich traditions, making them an integral part of Hawaii’s cultural heritage. By capturing the essence of these flowers in the perfume Flowery Lei, Paul and Estrellita Jones aimed to offer a sensory experience that resonated with the island's deep-rooted traditions and beauty.

Aloha Nui:

The perfume Aloha Nui was crafted to evoke a profound emotional resonance, capturing "the sadness of leaving" and "the desire to return." Its name, Aloha Nui, translates to "Great Aloha" or "Much Aloha" in Hawaiian. The term "Aloha" is a central element of Hawaiian culture, encompassing a deep sense of love, affection, and compassion. When paired with "Nui," meaning "great" or "much," the name suggests an overwhelming, heartfelt sentiment.

In the context of perfume, Aloha Nui embodies the bittersweet emotions associated with departing from a beloved place and the longing to return. This emotional depth aligns with the concept of aloha, which is not merely a greeting but an expression of profound, heartfelt connection and respect. The perfume's essence was designed to encapsulate the nostalgic and poignant feelings that arise when one leaves a place imbued with personal significance and beauty.

Hawaii, with its enchanting landscapes and warm hospitality, often evokes strong emotional ties in those who visit. The island's unique charm and the experiences it offers can create lasting memories, making departure a source of genuine sadness and a yearning to return. By naming the perfume Aloha Nui, Paul and Estrellita Jones conveyed a deep sense of these emotions, allowing wearers to carry a piece of Hawaii with them and relive the profound affection and longing that the islands inspire. The perfume serves as a fragrant reminder of the island's captivating allure and the strong, affectionate bonds formed with it.

Huapala:

The perfume Huapala was characterized as "romance itself captured in fragrance," aiming to embody the essence of deep, enchanting love. The name "Huapala" is derived from Hawaiian, where it means "a song or chant of praise" or "a melody of adoration." This term encapsulates the idea of expressing admiration and devotion through lyrical and heartfelt means.

In association with perfume, Huapala's name reflects the notion of fragrance as an emotional and sensory experience akin to a romantic serenade. Just as a song of praise can evoke powerful feelings and memories, Huapala was designed to capture the essence of romance in a bottle. The perfume’s intent was to translate the beauty and passion of Hawaiian romance into a scent that could evoke similar sentiments in those who wore it. The perfume was described as "young and fresh."

Hawaii’s rich cultural heritage includes a tradition of using music and chant to convey deep emotions and stories. The islands' enchanting landscapes and warm, welcoming spirit often inspire feelings of love and admiration. By naming the perfume Huapala, Paul and Estrellita Jones tapped into this cultural legacy, offering a fragrance that serves as a sensory homage to the romance and allure of Hawaii. The name suggests that the perfume itself is a tribute to the island's enchanting beauty, capturing the romantic essence of Hawaii in a way that resonates with the tradition of heartfelt expression found in Hawaiian culture.

Tropical Fruit:

The perfume Tropical Fruit was designed to evoke the lush, juicy essence of a tropical paradise, featuring a rich blend of fruity notes that embody the essence of Hawaii. To achieve this, the fragrance would likely include a selection of vibrant and aromatic ingredients that capture the diverse flavors of tropical fruits. Tropical Fruit, as a perfume, was described as "rich, ripe and satisfying."

Top notes in Tropical Fruit would deliver an immediate burst of freshness, beginning with pineapple. Its tangy, sweet aroma would create an invigorating opening, reminiscent of the tropical air in Hawaii. Mango, with its creamy and succulent sweetness, would follow, adding a touch of indulgence and depth. Passion fruit would contribute a unique tangy-sweet profile, blending citrus and floral nuances to enhance the tropical theme.

As the perfume settles, middle notes would take center stage, revealing the heart of the fragrance. Guava, known for its sweet and slightly tangy aroma, would add a tropical richness that enhances the initial fruitiness. Papaya would introduce a soft, musky sweetness, blending smoothly with the other fruity elements to create a well-rounded scent. Coconut, with its creamy and nutty character, would infuse the fragrance with a sun-kissed, exotic quality, reminiscent of Hawaiian beaches.

Base notes would provide depth and longevity to the perfume, anchoring the vibrant fruitiness with lasting impressions. Vanilla would add a warm, sweet undertone, creating a comforting, smooth finish that complements the tropical fruits. Musk would offer a subtle, sensual quality, ensuring that the fragrance endures and leaves a memorable trail.

The association of Tropical Fruit with Hawaii lies in its ability to capture the island’s bountiful fruit landscape and tropical ambiance. Hawaii’s rich array of tropical fruits, such as pineapple, mango, and passion fruit, are not only staples of the local cuisine but also integral to the island’s cultural identity. By encapsulating these scents in a perfume, Tropical Fruit provides a sensory escape to a sun-drenched paradise, celebrating the vibrant and exotic allure of Hawaii. The fragrance serves as a fragrant reminder of the island’s natural beauty and the indulgent pleasure of its tropical fruits.

Kiele:

The perfume Kiele was crafted to showcase the rich, heady scent of gardenia, with the name itself derived from Hawaiian, meaning "gardenia." This choice underscores the perfume’s focus on capturing the essence of this beloved flower, celebrated for its lush and intoxicating fragrance. The gardenia's scent, which is both sweet and slightly exotic, is a symbol of tropical elegance and beauty in Hawaii, often featured in leis and floral arrangements that reflect the island’s vibrant flora.

To achieve an authentic gardenia aroma, Kiele would incorporate a carefully balanced blend of natural essences. The fragrance would include doses of rose, jasmine, and orange to mirror the complex, multi-layered scent profile of gardenias. Rose and jasmine contribute to the depth and richness of the floral scent, while orange adds a hint of citrusy freshness. Tuberose and cassie further enhance the perfume with their lush, creamy notes, while daffodil introduces a touch of green, crisp clarity. Neroli and ylang-ylang provide additional layers of sweetness and warmth, rounding out the fragrance with their distinctive, exotic nuances.

By incorporating these natural essences, Kiele not only replicates the gardenia's fragrant profile but also evokes the lush, tropical beauty of Hawaii. The perfume becomes a sensory tribute to the island’s floral splendor, capturing the elegance and allure of gardenias amidst the broader context of Hawaii’s rich botanical landscape. Kiele thus offers a refined olfactory experience that transports wearers to the serene beauty of Hawaiian gardens, embodying the essence of this iconic flower and the island's enchanting atmosphere.

Pikake:

The perfume Pikake was designed to capture the essence of jasmine, with its name derived from the Hawaiian term for the flower itself. In Hawaiian, "pikake" refers to jasmine, particularly the type known as Jasminum sambac, which is cherished for its intoxicating and sweet fragrance. This choice of name highlights the perfume’s intent to embody the lush and heady aroma of jasmine, a flower that holds special significance in Hawaiian culture.

Jasmine is renowned for its rich, warm scent, which is both floral and slightly exotic. To authentically replicate this fragrance, Pikake would incorporate a blend of natural essences that mirror the complex profile of jasmine. The perfume would include jasmine itself as a primary note, providing the core of its lush, sweet aroma. Orange blossom adds a touch of citrusy brightness and softness, while cassie contributes a slightly spicy, floral nuance. Civet, with its deep, musky undertones, introduces a sensual, animalic richness that enhances the perfume’s depth. Orris and ambrette offer a smooth, powdery texture, balancing the floral intensity with a refined softness, while benzoin adds a hint of warmth and resinous sweetness. Neroli, with its bright, fresh quality, complements the jasmine and orange blossom, rounding out the fragrance with a subtle, citrusy touch.

In Hawaii, jasmine is often associated with beauty and grace, frequently used in leis and floral arrangements to convey a sense of elegance and aromatic richness. Pikake, as a fragrance, encapsulates the allure of jasmine, transporting wearers to the lush, fragrant gardens of the islands. By capturing the essence of this iconic flower, Pikake offers a sensory connection to Hawaii’s natural beauty, celebrating the elegance and charm of jasmine in a way that reflects the island’s vibrant floral heritage.

Pono Moi:

The perfume Pono Moi was crafted to capture the rich, heady scent of deep red carnations. The Hawaiian name "Pono Moi" translates to "exquisite" or "of highest quality," a fitting tribute to the complex and luxurious fragrance profile of this perfume. By naming the fragrance Pono Moi, the creators emphasized the superior quality and depth of the scent, which aims to evoke the lush, vibrant beauty of carnations. The perfume was described as "pungent carnation."

Carnations are renowned for their spicy, floral aroma, and capturing this scent authentically requires a blend of carefully selected natural essences. In Pono Moi, the heart of the fragrance would be dominated by the essence of carnation itself, providing a rich, spicy, and floral character. To enhance this core note, the perfume would include clove, which adds a warm, spicy edge, and a touch of little jasmine for a soft, delicate floral nuance. Jonquil, with its green, sweet undertones, complements the carnation’s spiciness, while orange blossom adds a touch of fresh, citrusy brightness.

The fragrance would also feature tolu, a resin that provides a warm, balsamic quality, and musk for a sensual depth. Benzoin adds a resinous sweetness, while ylang-ylang contributes a rich, exotic floral note. Rose geranium and patchouli introduce a green, earthy dimension, with pimento adding a subtle spicy kick. Neroli brings a fresh, citrusy lift, and rose adds a classic floral elegance. Isoeugenol, a compound found in carnations, would enhance the authenticity of the fragrance, while iris, vanilla, styrax, and sandalwood provide a soft, smooth base to round out the perfume and add depth.

In Hawaiian culture, the carnation is associated with beauty and significance, often used in leis and ceremonial decorations to signify respect and admiration. By encapsulating the scent of deep red carnations in Pono Moi, the fragrance reflects the richness and elegance of Hawaiian floral traditions. The perfume not only celebrates the carnation’s distinctive aroma but also connects wearers to the island’s vibrant floral heritage, offering a sensory experience that evokes the lush, tropical beauty of Hawaii.

White Ginger:

The perfume White Ginger was meticulously crafted to encapsulate the invigorating and spicy aroma of freshly grated ginger root. In Hawaiian, the white ginger flower is known as "Awapuhi," specifically referring to the Zingiber zerumbet species, which is also commonly called "shampoo ginger" due to its use in traditional Hawaiian hair care rituals. This choice of name highlights the perfume’s focus on capturing the vibrant and aromatic essence of ginger, a plant deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture and traditions.

The scent profile of White Ginger aims to reflect the complex and spicy character of ginger root. To achieve an authentic representation of this aroma, the perfume would feature a blend of natural essences. Ginger itself forms the core of the fragrance, offering a warm, spicy, and invigorating note. To enhance this primary scent, cardamom would be included for its sweet, aromatic spiciness, which complements and deepens the ginger's warmth. Clove adds a rich, warm spice, while galanga, a relative of ginger, introduces an additional layer of exotic, peppery zest.

Petitgrain, derived from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, brings a fresh, woody nuance that balances the spiciness with a green, citrusy edge. Lemon and orange contribute bright, tangy citrus notes that lighten the fragrance and add a lively, zesty contrast to the warmth of the ginger. Pineapple, with its sweet and tropical aroma, introduces a fruity, exotic touch that complements the spice and enriches the overall fragrance.

In Hawaiian culture, ginger is cherished not only for its culinary uses but also for its role in traditional practices and personal care. By encapsulating the essence of white ginger in White Ginger perfume, the fragrance pays homage to the plant's significance and evokes the vibrant, tropical ambiance of Hawaii. The perfume offers a sensory journey that mirrors the island’s lush landscapes and aromatic richness, celebrating the unique and invigorating scent of ginger root in a way that connects wearers to the spirit of Hawaii.

Lia Lani:

The fragrance Lia Lani embodies a sophisticated tribute to Hawaiian culture through its evocative name and scent profile. In Hawaiian, "Lia Lani" translates to "heavenly beauty" or "heavenly grace," a fitting designation for a perfume intended to capture the essence of exquisite elegance and ethereal charm.

The association of Lia Lani with Hawaii is deeply rooted in the island's cultural reverence for natural beauty and spiritual grace. The name reflects the islands' enchanting landscapes and the tranquil, almost otherworldly allure of the Hawaiian environment. By choosing a name that signifies "heavenly beauty," the fragrance evokes the serene and captivating qualities of the Hawaiian islands, aiming to transport the wearer to a place of sublime elegance and peace.

In crafting Lia Lani, the perfume likely drew inspiration from the lush and vibrant flora of Hawaii, incorporating delicate floral notes that resonate with the islands' natural beauty. This could include a blend of tropical flowers and lush greenery, capturing the essence of a Hawaiian paradise and enhancing the fragrance's ability to evoke a sense of grace and serenity.

The choice of the name Lia Lani not only honors the aesthetic and spiritual qualities associated with Hawaii but also aligns with the broader tradition of using evocative names in perfumery to convey specific emotions and experiences. Through this fragrance, Paul Jones and his collaborators paid homage to the enchanting allure of the Hawaiian islands, creating a scent that embodies both the physical beauty and the ethereal charm of paradise.

Honi Honi:

The fragrance Honi Honi captures the essence of Hawaiian culture with its evocative name and aromatic profile. In Hawaiian, "honi honi" translates to "kiss kiss" or "sweet kiss," reflecting a tender, affectionate gesture. This name is deeply symbolic, representing intimacy, warmth, and the gentle, loving touches that characterize personal connections and the spirit of aloha. The perfume was described as "gay, provocative."

In the context of perfume, Honi Honi would likely be crafted to evoke the sensory experience of a soft, cherished embrace. The fragrance might incorporate sweet, soothing notes that resonate with the idea of a tender kiss. This could include a blend of delicate florals, creamy vanilla, and soft, comforting musk, creating a scent that feels intimate and inviting, much like the affectionate gesture the name suggests.

The association with Hawaii is significant, as the islands are renowned for their warm, welcoming culture and emphasis on personal connections. The name Honi Honi reflects the Hawaiian values of aloha and ohana (family), embodying the warmth and friendliness that are central to the island experience. By choosing a name that evokes such a personal and affectionate gesture, the perfume aligns itself with the island's ethos of love and connection.

Overall, Honi Honi serves as a fragrant tribute to the emotional and cultural richness of Hawaii, capturing the essence of intimacy and warmth in a bottle. Its name and scent combine to offer a sensory experience that mirrors the affectionate and welcoming spirit of the Hawaiian islands.

Ua Lani:

The fragrance Ua Lani is named with a term that holds a special place in Hawaiian culture. In Hawaiian, "Ua Lani" translates to "Heavenly Mist" or "Heavenly Rain," reflecting a sense of ethereal beauty and tranquility. This evocative name suggests a fragrance that captures the delicate, refreshing quality of mist or rain as it graces a heavenly landscape.

In the context of perfume, Ua Lani would likely embody the light, airy qualities of mist or rain, incorporating subtle and soothing notes that evoke the serenity of a gentle rainfall. The scent profile for such a fragrance might include fresh, dewy elements like light florals, soft citrus, or crisp green notes. These ingredients would combine to create an impression of freshness and purity, akin to the rejuvenating touch of a rain shower in a tropical paradise.

The association with Hawaii is particularly meaningful. The islands are known for their lush, verdant landscapes, which are nourished by regular, gentle rains that contribute to their stunning natural beauty. By invoking the imagery of "heavenly rain," Ua Lani connects the fragrance to the serene and rejuvenating aspects of Hawaiian nature. It captures the essence of the island's atmospheric quality, where rain often brings a sense of renewal and tranquility to the lush environment.

Overall, Ua Lani embodies the delicate, refreshing spirit of Hawaiian rain, offering a scent experience that mirrors the calming and beautiful essence of the islands. The fragrance not only reflects the natural beauty of Hawaii but also evokes the serene and restorative qualities associated with its misty rain showers.

A Night To Remember:

In 1941, Paul Jones introduced the perfume A Night to Remember, a fragrance meticulously crafted to capture the essence of Hawaiian flowers and inspired by Don Blanding's play of the same name. The perfume's creation was a tribute to both the rich floral diversity of Hawaii and Blanding's evocative work, blending artistic and cultural inspirations into a single olfactory experience.

Don Blanding, a celebrated writer and poet renowned for his vivid descriptions of Hawaiian life, had penned a play titled A Night to Remember, which celebrated the enchanting and romantic aspects of the islands. The perfume, in turn, sought to embody these themes through its composition. A Night to Remember was designed to evoke the lush, exotic beauty of Hawaii's flora, offering a fragrance that could transport its wearer to an evening under the stars in a tropical paradise.

The scent of A Night to Remember featured a rich bouquet of Hawaiian flowers, each chosen for its ability to evoke the vivid sensory experiences of the islands. The perfume would likely have included notes from iconic Hawaiian blooms such as plumeria, gardenia, and hibiscus. These flowers are known for their heady, exotic fragrances, which can capture the romantic and tropical allure of a Hawaiian evening. The perfume’s composition aimed to blend these floral elements into a harmonious and captivating scent profile, reflecting the lush, vibrant environment of the islands.

By drawing on the themes of Blanding's play and the natural beauty of Hawaii, A Night to Remember presented a sensory experience that combined artistic inspiration with the enchanting allure of Hawaiian flora. The perfume offered a way for enthusiasts to connect with the romantic, tropical spirit of the islands, encapsulating the essence of a magical Hawaiian night in every drop.

Pine Cones from Carmel:

The masculine fragrance Pine Cones from Carmel was a distinctive offering from Paul Jones, tailored to capture the essence of rugged, natural landscapes through a blend of earthy and woody notes. This unique scent combined the mingled fragrances of sage, leather, tobacco, new mown hay, pine needles, sycamore leaves, resin, and wood fires, evoking a rich, multisensory experience. The name of the perfume was inspired by the Pine Cone, a publication from Carmel, where Don Blanding wrote his evocative "Vagabond's House" columns. The fragrance thus pays homage to the natural beauty and literary charm of Carmel, reflecting both the setting of Blanding’s writing and the sensory allure of the region.

In Hawaiian, pine cones are known as "Puhala," although it is worth noting that Hawaii does not have native pine trees, and pine cones are not commonly associated with the islands’ flora. The scent of pine cones, however, carries a universal appeal that transcends geographic boundaries. The crisp, resinous aroma of pine needles and wood fires, mingled with earthy notes of sage and leather, offers a nostalgic connection to the outdoors. This evocative blend resonates with the tranquil and expansive beauty of natural landscapes, making it a compelling choice for those who appreciate the rugged charm of wilderness scents.

Carmel, located on the picturesque coast of California, is renowned for its stunning natural surroundings, including its lush pine forests and serene ambiance. The pine cones from this region are symbolic of the rustic, unspoiled beauty that characterizes Carmel’s landscape. The allure of these pine cones as a scent lies in their ability to evoke the fresh, clean, and invigorating atmosphere of forested areas. By incorporating these elements into Pine Cones from Carmel, Paul Jones captured a piece of Carmel's essence, offering a fragrance that appeals to those with a penchant for nature and a connection to the literary and cultural heritage of the area.

Paradise, Seaward & Unconquered:

Cecil B. DeMille, the legendary filmmaker known for his grandiose and visually spectacular productions, sought to extend his influence into the world of fragrances, commissioning Paul Jones to create a series of bespoke perfumes. The first of these was named after DeMille’s famed ranch, "Paradise." This geranium based perfume was intended to encapsulate the idyllic and luxurious essence of his sprawling estate, reflecting the opulence and tranquility associated with his personal haven. The successful result of this initial commission set the stage for further collaborations between DeMille and Jones.

Pleased with the perfume named "Paradise," DeMille then requested Jones to craft another fragrance, this time named "Seaward," in homage to his yacht. The name "Seaward" evoked images of the open sea and the sense of freedom and adventure associated with ocean voyages. The fragrance would likely have been designed to reflect the fresh, invigorating qualities of sea breezes, capturing the essence of maritime exploration and luxury.

In addition to these personalized scents, DeMille also envisioned a perfume that would embody the atmosphere of his forthcoming film, "Unconquered," set to be released in 1937. This film, known for its sweeping historical drama and grand cinematic scope, inspired DeMille to request a fragrance that would capture its spirit. The perfume would have been crafted to evoke the dramatic and adventurous themes of the film, translating its historical and epic elements into a sensory experience. Packaged in an elegant crimson box lined with chartreuse and accented with black, the presentation was as dramatic as one of DeMille's epic films. Estrellita Jones played a crucial role in designing these containers, ensuring that each detail reflected the sophisticated and exotic nature of the perfume within.

Through these commissions, Paul Jones not only showcased his ability to create fragrances that reflected the personal tastes and themes of his clients but also extended his artistry into the realm of cinema and high society. Each perfume, from "Paradise" to "Seaward" and "Unconquered," was tailored to embody the distinct qualities and aspirations associated with DeMille’s various interests and projects, demonstrating Jones’s skill in translating visual and experiential concepts into olfactory masterpieces.

 

"The Hawaiian flowers, ginger, white ginger and a blend of several into a "lei" perfume, offer a delightful range of new scents, of haunting memories to leave behind or to let drift across the room as one enters."

Here is a gorgeous Czech crystal bottle for Huapala perfume. The base of the bottle has stenciled in white "Czechoslovakia" and also is marked "Ingrid". This fancy designed bottle features sunbursts, palm trees, and sailboats. Bottle measures approx. 5 3/4" h x 2 1/2" w x 1 1/4" d. Stopper has a long glass dauber.

  

Dabrooks

Founded by Williams, Davis, Brooks, & Co in Detroit, Mich, a subdivision of the Michigan Drug Company.

Garwood's Standard Perfumes

Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.

Marie Earle Perfumes

Established in 5th Avenue New York in 1910.

Calisher and Company Perfumes

AB Calisher & Co. was located at 112 Franklin Street New York. Established in 1893 by Aaron B. Calisher, Joseph H. Calisher and Nathan Calisher.

Breathless by Charbert c1933

Breathless by Charbert was launched in 1933.

Wenck

"The Wenck" Perfume Mfg Co. 77 Franklin Street, New York City. 

Laboratory and office at 381 Sixth Ave, New York City (in 1876).

Bullock, Ward & Co

Bullock, Ward & Co. of Chicago, Illinois were manufacturers of soap, perfumes, pure food flavor extracts and toilet specialties. The company was established in 1899 by Thomas H. Bullock and Phillip T. Ward, and primarily dealt in the mail order business.

Mollie Parnis by Mollie Parnis c1978

Mollie Parnis by Mollie Parnis: launched in 1978 under the name Mollie Parnis Cosmetics Dist., possibly in conjunction with Parfums Weil. The perfume was concocted in France but botted in the USA. She chose tuberose as a main ingredient as it was her favorite flower, one of which she used to keep fresh blossoms in vases in her office.

In a 1977 article, Mollie Parnis mentions that "The French had ideas about perfume, I had some about fashion, we finally agreed...The world is getting more American designer oriented...I believe that creativity, whether it's in the arts or anything else, is where the money is. The money is here, we have the know-how and the creativity. "

William H. Brown & Bros. Perfumery

William H. Brown & Bros, also called Brown & Brothers, (originally a druggist company) perfumery was located in Baltimore, Md. Earliest mention I found for the name is from 1852.

CL Cotton Perfume & Extract Company

CL Cotton Perfume & Extract Company, a corporation, Earlville, N. Y.

The C. L. Cotton Perfume and Extract Company was founded by Cyrus L. Cotton, a former druggist of Hamilton, NY, in 1878. In that year he began the manufacture of flavoring extracts and later added perfumes to his output.


American Soap Journal and Manufacturing Chemist, 1892:

"The CL Cotton Perfume and Extract Company of Earlville NY has been incorporated for the purpose of manufacturing perfumes, extracts, etc. The capital stock is $50,000 consisting of 500 shares of $100 each. The directors of the company are Cyrus L Cotton, Herbert C Allen, Fred E Williams, Fred C DeVallant and Henry G Greene."

The company began in Cotton's Victorian Gothic residence at 25 North Main, Earlville, NY, later moved to the brick laboratory he constructed at 25 East Main Street (now the Cornell University Regional Mastisis Laboratory).

Paint, Oil and Drug Review, Volume 25, 1898:

"The CL Cotton Perfume and Extract Company Earlville, NY held its annual meeting on the 3d inst. The following directors were elected: CL Cotton, FE Williams, FC DeVallant, HC Allen, HG Greene. At a meeting of the directors, CL Cotton was elected president and manager, FE Williams secretary and treasurer, and HG Greene vice president .The company reports that 1897 has been good year in the perfume and extract trade especially last half of it and prospects for 1898 are decidedly better than they were a year ago."

CL Cotton was also a past member of the Flavoring Extract Manufacturers Association.

The Rome Daily Sentinel, 1905:

"Death of C. L. Cotton of Earlvllle. Cyrus L. Cotton, one of the foremost citizens of Earlville, whose death occurred Tuesday from Bright's Disease, was 65 years of age and had been a resident of Earlville for more than 40 years. Mr. Cotton went to Earlville when he was about 20 years of age, and engaged in the drug business. After disposing of his drug store he traveled for an Albany drug house, and while engaged in that capacity he conceived the Idea of starting an extract , business of his own, the large plant in Earlville is a monument to his business ability. Twelve years ago a stock company was formed to take over the private business- of Mr. Cotton, and the C.L. Cotton Perfume and Extract Company resulted, of which Mr. Cotton was president and principal stockholder. He was one of the most enterprising and loyal of citizens, and was president of the village for several years besides holding the office of post master under several administrations."

The fragrances of CL Cotton:

• 1903 Bavarian Bouquet 
• 1903 Cotton's Cream of Petroleum 
• 1903 Cotton's Medicated Talcum and Face Powder 
• 1903 Cotton's Perfumed Petroleum 
• 1903 Cotton's Rose Balm 
• 1903 Cotton's Violet Talcum Powder 
• 1903 Crown Prince Violet 
• 1903 Le Trefle 
• 1903 Puritan 
• 1903 Santinol 
• 1903 Special Bavarian Bouquet 
• 1903 Special Crown Prince Violet 
• 1903 Special Pensee 
• 1903 Special Syringa 
• 1908 - De Vallant's Queen Jess

Alfred Wright

William & Alfred Wright established their proprietary medicine company in 1869 in San Francisco. In 1899, Alfred Wright opened a perfumery located in Rochester, New York. He also had a branch in Philadelphia. Many of the bottles I have come across have the Philadelphia address on them. You will also find these embossed with the name Alfred Wright or with the initials AW.

Frances Denney Perfumes

Frances Denney/Denny of Philadelphia, Pa. Frances Denney also traded under the name Denney & Denney from 1925-1950.

Babcock Perfumes

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by AP Babcock of New York City.  Babcock was a perfumer who launched a range of fragrances under own name, also made fragrances for other companies such as We Moderns for Saks Fifth Avenue in 1928.


AP Babcock was located at 38 W 18th Street New York. Established 1899 by AP Babcock.



Marketing Communications - Volume 97 - Page 13, 1916:

"Agency for Babcock's Corylopsis of Japan. The advertising of Babcock's Corylopsis of Japan products manufactured by the AP Babcock Co. New York has been placed in charge of Hanff-Metzger Inc of the same city." 

Cosmetics and Toiletries - Volume 17 - Page 512, 1922:

"JL Strawn - Mrs AP Babcock. Two deaths within two days caused general regret in the establishments of the AP Babcock Co perfumers 501 Fifth avenue New York. On December 22, Mrs Mary L. Babcock, widow of Alfred P Babcock founder of the firm, died at the home of her daughter Mrs. Lewis EK White, at Glen Head Long Island where funeral services were held on the morning of the 26th On December 23. JL Strawn, credit manager of the AP Babcock Co and connected with the firm for fourteen years was stricken with heart failure on an Erie Railroad train about 7:30 in the evening while returning to his home at Pearl River NY. He is survived by his widow and three children two daughters and one son. Mr. Strawn had made himself a valuable assistant to H. Henry Bertram, president and general manager of the Babcock company." 

The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, Volume 16, 1922:

"A petition in bankruptcy was filed May 31 against AP Babcock Co. manufacturing perfumery and talcum powder at 501 Fifth avenue New York City by these creditors Ungerer and Co., $559 Swindell Brothers $1,697, Roure Bertrand Fils Inc $896, and Sophie M Bultman $16,599. It is stated that the liabilities are upward of $60,000 and the assets about $45,000 and that a judgment for $15,815 has been docketed against the company. Judge Hand has appointed Jesse Watson receiver in $5,000 bond to serve without compensation. The business was established in about 1880 by the late Alfred P. Babcock who died in 1903. Several years later Mr LEK White was employed by the firm as salesman and in 1909 he married Miss Lena Babcock, daughter of the founder of the business. In that year the firm was incorporated and soon thereafter Mr H Henry Bertram acquired an interest in it and was made secretary and treasurer giving his attention to finances and advertising. Mr White then became vice president and general manager. Richard C. Bultman, president of the company died in April 1919. The business was conducted on a profitable basis until recently and in fact expansion was so considerable during recent years that the manufacturing plant was moved to Rutherford NJ in February 1920. Considerable delay was experienced in completing the factory and we understand that this interfered with production to such an extent that considerable business that had been booked was canceled. From what we are able to learn the business will be continued under the old name and will not be closed."

Drug and Chemical Markets, Volume 10, 1922:

"Judge A N Hand has dismissed the petition in bankruptcy filed last May against AP Babcock & Co manufacturers of perfumes and talcum powder 501 Fifth ave The creditors were paid 100 cents on the dollar in cash." 

Plastic Products, 1933:

"H. Henry Bertram, Associated Manufacturers' of Toilet Articles president, has resigned from A. P. Babcock Co., to become affiliated with Frederick Loeser & Co., Brooklyn, N. Y. department store. He will head its toilet goods department."

I believe the AP Babcock Company was out of business around 1946. I probably don't have every single fragrance listed, so if I missed one, please let me know.

The perfumes of AP Babcock:

• 1899 Queen Cologne
• 1903 Bouquet Acme 
• 1903 Coast Violets 
• 1903 Coast Violet Sachet 
• 1903 Cut Roses 
• 1903 Double Pink 
• 1903 Florabel 
• 1903 Golden Gate Rose 
• 1903 Hinoki 
• 1903 Purple Lilac 
• 1903 Sicilian Violet 
• 1903 Vogue 
• 1903 Vraie Violette 
• 1907 Violet Elice
• 1908 Black Prince
• 1908 Florabel
• 1908 Hinoki
• 1908 Mercedes
• 1908 Purple Lilac
• 1908 Stephanotis
• 1908 Hermosa
• 1908 Japanese Motiya
• 1908 Manhattan Violet
• 1908 Myosotis
• 1908 Pine Needle
• 1908 Rejane
• 1908 Ruby Hyacinth
• 1908 Santo Cutis
• 1908 Utilis Cologne
• 1908 Vogue
• 1910 Golden Gate Fresh Violets
• 1910 Golden Gate Japonica
• 1910 Golden Gate Rose
• 1920 Love Petals
• 1920 La Romance
• 1920 Butterfly
• 1922 Acme
• 1922 Honeysuckle
• 1922 Cut Roses
• 1922 Corylopsis of Japan
• 1922 Cho Cho San
• 1922 Flower of Savoy  
• 1922 Prettiest
• 1923 Tip Tap
• 1925 Cigarette
• 1925 Blue Jasmine
• 1925 Superfumes
• 1926 Lady Nicotine
• 1926 Black Bottom
• 1926 La Bud Parisienne
• 1928 We Moderns by Saks Fifth Avenue
• 1928 Romany 
• 1930 This
• 1930 Eventide
• 1930 Noon
• 1930 Morn
• 1930 Camille
• 1930 Eunedus
• 1930s Lore
• 1931 Numerology
• 1934 Ann Hathaway
• 1934 Gardenia
• 1934 Jasmin 
• 1936 Ma Cheri
• 1963 Lilac
• Boston Man

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 39, 1936:

"A. P. Babcock's "Ma Cherie" line consists of cologne, dusting powder, bath crystals and talcum powder, packaged in bottles and boxes covered with natural Japanese wood veneer and decorated with hand-applied imported oil painting reproductions with natural wood ball stoppers."

David S. Brown & Co. Perfumes

David S. Brown & Co was established in New York City during the mid to late 1800's. I saw an advertisement for 1882 that listed them as soap makers & perfumers.

Adolph Spiehler Perfumes

Adolph Spiehler of 202-204 Court Street, Rochester, NY. Established 1876 by Adolph Spiehler.

Parfums Blanchard

Parfums Blanchard, established in 1930 by brothers Howard and Eugene Kestenbaum, emerged as a prominent name in the New York perfume industry. The Kestenbaum brothers launched their company with a vision to create luxurious and refined fragrances, and they quickly made a mark with their distinctive offerings.

In the early years, Parfums Blanchard focused on crafting elegant and sophisticated scents that appealed to a discerning clientele. The brand’s perfumes were celebrated for their quality and unique compositions, reflecting the Kestenbaums' dedication to excellence in fragrance creation.

Among the various perfumes produced by Parfums Blanchard, each was designed to embody a sense of timeless elegance and luxury. The Kestenbaums' expertise in blending high-quality ingredients ensured that their fragrances stood out in the competitive market of the early 20th century.

The legacy of Parfums Blanchard represents a commitment to craftsmanship and a deep understanding of the art of perfumery, which the Kestenbaum brothers maintained throughout the company's history. Their work has left an enduring impression on the world of fragrance, continuing to be remembered for its refinement and sophistication.

Parfums Raffy

Parfums Raffy was established in 1918 by Marcel J. Raffy, a Franco-American (1901-1934), of 156 East 45 St. New York.

c1930 ad