Subtilite by Houbigant c 1920

In 1920, the world was transitioning from the aftermath of World War I into a new era characterized by a mix of relief and burgeoning cultural movements. The Roaring Twenties had just begun, ushering in a time of economic prosperity, artistic innovation, and social change. This decade saw the rise of jazz music, flapper fashion, and a general sense of exuberance and liberation. In the realm of perfumery, this period marked a significant shift toward more complex and refined scents, reflecting the newfound optimism and sophistication of society. The launch of Subtilité by Parfums Houbigant in 1920 captured the essence of this dynamic time, combining elegance and innovation in a fragrance that appealed to the modern sensibilities of the era.

The name "Subtilité" is derived from the French word for "subtlety" in English. French, known for its association with romance, sophistication, and luxury, is a fitting choice for a perfume name, particularly one crafted by a prestigious French fragrance house like Houbigant. The choice of the name "Subtilité" underscores the brand's emphasis on refinement and the art of nuanced scent composition.

Houbigant likely chose the name "Subtilité" to convey the intricate and delicate nature of the perfume. The word suggests an understated elegance, a complexity that reveals itself gradually rather than overwhelming the senses at first sniff. This aligns with Houbigant's reputation for creating sophisticated and multi-layered fragrances that cater to a discerning clientele. By naming the perfume "Subtilité," Houbigant emphasizes the art of subtlety in perfumery, where the beauty of the scent lies in its refined and gentle unfolding.

"Subtilité" is an apt name for a perfume because it conveys the idea of a scent that is refined, intricate, and delicate. Such a name suggests a fragrance that offers a sophisticated experience, appealing to those who appreciate the finer details and complexities of a well-crafted perfume. It implies a sense of elegance and grace, making it a fitting descriptor for a fragrance that is meant to be savored and appreciated over time.

Flatterie by Houbigant c1955

In 1955, the launch of "Flatterie" by Houbigant occurred amidst a period of post-war optimism and increasing prosperity in many parts of the world. This era marked a shift in perfumery towards more luxurious and sophisticated scents, departing from the austerity of the war years. Perfume became not just a personal luxury but also a statement of elegance and femininity

Houbigant likely chose the name "Flatterie" for its perfume to align with the cultural milieu of the time. "Flatterie," meaning flattery in French, suggests a charm that captivates and delights. In the context of perfumery, a name like "Flatterie" would evoke an allure and allure that promises to enhance one's beauty and appeal.

The name "Flatterie" would resonate with individuals who valued elegance, refinement, and the art of seduction. Women of this era, aspiring to embody sophistication and femininity, would have been drawn to a perfume named "Flatterie." The fragrance itself would have been designed to complement and enhance a woman's natural allure, making her feel confident and alluring when worn.

When worn, "Flatterie" would indeed be expected to live up to its name. Its scent would likely evoke compliments and admiration from others who caught its alluring trail. The fragrance would be crafted to be pleasing and memorable, leaving a positive impression on those who experienced its scent.

Le Parfum Ideal by Houbigant c1896

Le Parfum Ideal was created by Houbigant by in house perfumer, Paul Parquet in 1896, but it was launched for the first time at the 1900 Worlds Fair, along with another perfume Coeur de Jeanette.

The quintessential label for Le Parfum Ideal features a Gibson Girl sniffing a flower, this label was made of gilded foil and heavily embossed.

Zig Zag by Zsa Zsa Gabor c1969

Zig Zag by Zsa Zsa Gabor: launched in 1969.

The fragrance was available in the following products:

• Parfum
• Parfum Spray Mist
• Parfum Bath Oil

Lutece by Houbigant c1984

Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.

Ciao by Houbigant c1980

Ciao by Houbigant: launched in 1980. Created by Givaudan Perfumers.

Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant c1912

Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant: launched in 1912, created by perfumer Robert Bienaime, was one of the first floral bouquet ever produced.

Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929 and c1987

Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1929.

Chantilly by Houbigant c1940

Chantilly by Houbigant: launched in 1940. The fragrance was created by "nose" Marcel Billot and Paul Parquet and named after the famous Chantilly laces.

Indian Summer by Houbigant c1972

Indian Summer by Houbigant: launched in 1972. The fragrance was available in cologne and dusting powder.

Esprit de Noel by Houbigant c1968

Esprit de Noel by Houbigant: launched in 1968. “Esprit de Noel” means “spirit of Christmas.” It was available as eau de cologne and as a room essence. You would add a few drops to a light bulb to fragrance your room with a holiday air.


So what does it smell like? Sweet, incensy with a hint of muted florals.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, cloves, spices
• Heart notes: frankincense, myrrh, pine
• Base notes: resins, balsams, tonka, cedar, amber, musk

Discontinued, date unknown.

photo by ruby lane seller  River Queen

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Barbara Pepper and Perfumes c1930s

Vintage movie still photographs by John Miehle of the 1937 film Coast Patrol (later retitled as Sea Devils) starring Barbara Pepper.

Barbara Pepper (1915 - 1969) - Photo via Rantings of a Modern Day Glamour Girl.

In this vintage 1930s photo I can identify several perfume bottles of Guerlain's Vol de Nuit/Sous Le Vent, Chanel, Caron's Bellodgia, Caron's Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi, a Lalique perfume bottle, Ciro's Reflexions, Patou's Joy, Houbigant's Essence Rare, Elizabeth Arden''s Blue Grass, as well as a few Czech bottles and unknown bottles. She is holding the largest size of the Ybry perfumes.

Here is another angle of the same vanity table. I can also see a bottle of : Caron's Narcisse Noir. She has placed that large Ybry bottle at the back of her vanity.

Parfum Inconnu by Houbigant c1910

Parfum Inconnu was launched in 1910 by Houbigant. The perfume was created by Paul Parquet.

Vintage Musk Oils

Vintage musk oils are among the most coveted fragrances in the market today, with a rich history and enduring appeal. Despite the passage of time, many of these iconic scents from the 1970s have been discontinued, making them increasingly rare and highly sought after by fragrance enthusiasts. Those who originally embraced these sensual musk oils during their heyday often remain deeply loyal, driven by a nostalgic connection to their unique aroma. This ongoing demand has led to a significant increase in prices, with vintage musk oils commanding exorbitant amounts in the secondary market.

Cheramy Perfumes

Cheramy was located at 19 rue Cambon in Paris. The company was established by Raymond Couin in 1921. The business was sold to Houbigant in 1922 and became division producing lower-priced products, primarily for US market. Received prize at the Paris Exhibition in 1925.
     

Essence Rare by Houbigant c1928

Essence Rare was created in 1928. Story goes that Houbigant wanted a big time aldehyde perfume to compete with Chanel’s no. 5. So Roure-Bertrand chemist Paul Schving created Essence Rare.

Transparence by Houbigant c1939

Transparence by Houbigant launched in 1939, although its trademark record shows it was first used in 1931.

Houbigant's Floral Concentree c1930s

In the early 1930's, Houbigant introduced a new product, Parfum Concentre, a parfum extrait in several different true to life scents, including Rose, Heliotrope, Muguet, Jasmin, Chypre, Oeillet, Violette and Lilas.

Hearsts Internation, 1937:

"Eau Florale Concentree, the new version of perfume, is the first thing you put on after your bath — an exquisite underthing that clothes you in ... Priced for liberal daily use, yet available in the most prized Houbigant odeurs: CONCENTREE."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"EAU FLORALE CONCENTREE is a lovely new fashion in perfuming that you can easily afford. For Houbigant now presents its finest odeurs in this new version of perfume . . . for lavish, all-over-body use ... at ONE DOLLAR."

Hearsts International, 1938:

"Eau Florale -Concentree to be Applied Directly to the skin! You pat it on. Effective your bath, before you dress, and clothe yourself in subtle fragrance. It is light enough for lavish use from tip to toe, lingering enough to last from dawn to dark!"

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1940:

"Houbigant adds to the increasing interest in romantic florals this year with a true-to-the-flower reproduction of Wistaria in Eau Florale Concentree. This is a light, exquisite fragrance."

Rose concentree

Lilas concentree

Muguet concentree

Chypre concentree

Oeillet concentree

Presence by Houbigant c1929

Présence by Houbigant: launched in 1929, created by Raymond Kling.