In this guide I will introduce you to the world of perfume display bottles, also called Factices (pronounced fack-teece), and dummy bottles within the perfume trade. These unique items offer a fascinating glimpse into the art and marketing of fragrance.
In the early days of factices, these display bottles were sometimes filled with actual perfume to closely replicate the product they represented. However, as time progressed, manufacturers began using alternative substances to fill these bottles. These included colored water, a type of colored antifreeze, mixtures of rubbing alcohol or formaldehyde, or glycogen. The use of colored water in particular sometimes led to the development of sediment or flaky particles floating in the liquid, often caused by bacteria or mold growth. Additionally, some factices, such as those for My Sin by Lanvin, were designed as hollow, opaque plastic bottles with no liquid inside. This evolution in materials and design reflects practical considerations in maintaining the appearance of the display while ensuring safety and longevity
A Factice is an advertising store display bottle that is lent to a perfume vendor, typically department stores, by the perfume house. These bottles are not meant for retail sale but serve a vital role in showcasing the perfume brand's visual and aesthetic appeal to customers. The factices are exact replicas of the normal perfume bottles, meticulously crafted to match every detail of their retail counterparts. They often contain a colored liquid to mimic the appearance of the actual perfume, although this liquid is usually non-perfumed.
Because these bottles are on loan, they are typically returned to the perfume house once their display purpose has been fulfilled. This practice ensures that factices remain a relatively rare and exclusive item, not commonly found in the hands of the general public. Collectors, however, highly prize these bottles for their craftsmanship, beauty, and the unique story each one tells about the history and evolution of perfume marketing. The ephemeral nature of factices, coupled with their limited availability, makes them a coveted find for enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Early Factices:
In the early days of factices, these display bottles were sometimes filled with actual perfume to closely replicate the product they represented. However, as time progressed, manufacturers began using alternative substances to fill these bottles. These included colored water, a type of colored antifreeze, mixtures of rubbing alcohol or formaldehyde, or glycogen. The use of colored water in particular sometimes led to the development of sediment or flaky particles floating in the liquid, often caused by bacteria or mold growth. Additionally, some factices, such as those for My Sin by Lanvin, were designed as hollow, opaque plastic bottles with no liquid inside. This evolution in materials and design reflects practical considerations in maintaining the appearance of the display while ensuring safety and longevity
The influence of light, particularly electric light, on perfumes was well understood by the early 20th century, as highlighted in The Spatula in 1922. It noted that light, and extensive heat, could significantly affect both the color and odor of perfumes, leading to rapid deterioration. Additionally, it was asserted that even moonlight could cause fading of both the perfume and its label. As a result, window displays needed to consider these factors, often utilizing dummy bottles provided by manufacturers for display purposes to avoid spoiling actual stock.
By 1929, as reported in the Dry Goods Merchant Trade Journal, selling perfumes by the dram was an effective strategy to increase sales of larger quantities. Miss Kennedy, a notable figure in the trade, avoided selling empty perfume bottles. Instead, she repurposed them for display by filling them with tea brewed to match the color of the perfume, thus creating effective "dummy" bottles for window and interior displays, highlighting the adverse effects of sunlight exposure on perfumes.
In 1930, The Retail Chemist emphasized that goods spoiled by exposure were a significant issue, and the only satisfactory solution was for manufacturers to supply factice dummies or cartons. These allowed attractive displays without risking the deterioration of actual stock.
Treasury Decisions Under the Customs, Internal Revenue in 1934 provided detailed insights into the practical use of factices. These dummy bottles, like those for Narcisse Noir, were often imported filled with colored water and had "Dummy" etched on the bottom. These bottles were ornamental and used exclusively for display purposes, not sold but loaned to customers and returned after use. If the colored water faded due to sun exposure, the bottles were emptied, refilled with fresh colored water, and redressed for continued use. This practice ensured that the dummies closely imitated the actual perfume bottles, maintaining the integrity of the display while preventing misuse for actual perfume storage or sales.
By 1947, the practice of using dummy bottles, or "factice," became standard among perfume dealers to avoid raising false hopes among customers. These bottles were prominently labeled to indicate their status as display items, not for retail sale, further underscoring the importance of factices in the perfume industry’s marketing and preservation strategies.
Factice Liquids:
The colored liquid used in factices often arrived at department stores premade in advance in aluminum containers. This ensured that the liquid was ready to use, saving time and effort for the store staff. Alternatively, the liquid might come as a concentrated extract in a small plastic bottle, which the shop owner would then mix with distilled water to achieve the desired color and appearance. This method provided flexibility, allowing the exact shade to be matched to the perfume being displayed.
Factices came in a variety of sizes, reflecting the diversity and creativity in perfume marketing. They ranged from smaller versions of their retail counterparts to identical sizes that perfectly replicated the actual perfume bottles. Some factices were even produced much larger than life, known as giant factices. These giant bottles made a striking visual impact in store displays, drawing attention and emphasizing the prestige and allure of the fragrance brand. These various sizes allowed perfume houses to create compelling and eye-catching displays, enhancing the overall shopping experience and promoting their products effectively.
Bottles & Markings:
The construction of factices has evolved over time, reflecting changes in materials and manufacturing techniques. Older factices were often made of glass or crystal, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship and quality. These vintage bottles sometimes featured bases that were acid-stamped or etched with markings such as "dummy," "factice," or a "D" engraved into the glass, ensuring they were clearly identified as display items.
The process of marking these factices likely varied. One possibility is that the glass factories scratched "dummy" onto the bottles before sending them to the perfume factories, ensuring clarity from the start. Alternatively, the perfume factories themselves might have etched these markings to prevent the factices from being mistakenly filled with actual perfume. A third possibility is that store employees added these markings to differentiate the display bottles from those filled with perfume. This precaution helped maintain the integrity of the displays and avoided any confusion.
In some cases, instead of etched markings, factices were labeled with paper tags reading "factice" or "dummy." However, these labels often fell off over the years, leading to potential identification challenges for collectors and enthusiasts.
Additionally, some vintage bottles from prestigious brands like Guerlain and Balenciaga have unique markings. These bottles are often marked "dummy" on the back of the label located on the front of the bottle. This discreet marking can only be seen by looking through the back of the bottle, adding an element of intrigue and ensuring that the display nature of the bottle is clear without disrupting the aesthetic front view.
As time progressed, the materials used for factices shifted. Many newer factices are made of plastic or acrylic, offering durability and ease of production. Despite these changes, the purpose and function of factices remain the same: to create visually appealing and accurate representations of perfume bottles for display purposes, enhancing the allure and marketing of the fragrances they represent.
Some factices are designed as a single solid piece, where the stopper is molded into the base and is not removable. This design can be seen in certain acrylic factices used for Givenchy perfumes, among others. These solid-piece factices offer a sleek and seamless look, ensuring the display remains intact and undisturbed over time. The integration of the stopper into the base also prevents any risk of accidental removal or damage, making these factices particularly durable and suitable for long-term display.
Since the labels for factices were affixed at the perfume factories, which were primarily located in France, but the bottles were intended for American export, it makes sense that the word "dummy" was used instead of "factice" (the French term for artificial or fake). This ensured that the display bottles were clearly identified and understood by English-speaking retailers and consumers in the American market. In more recent examples, these labels might come in the form of stickers or tags on the back of the bottle stating "dummy," "for display purposes only," or "not for resale," further clarifying their intended use.
The attention to detail in the creation and labeling of factices underscores the importance of these display items in the perfume industry. Whether made from glass, crystal, plastic, or acrylic, and whether marked with etchings, stickers, or molded designs, factices serve a crucial role in marketing fragrances. They provide a visually accurate and appealing representation of the perfume bottles, drawing in customers and enhancing the overall shopping experience. The various methods of labeling and construction reflect the evolving practices in the industry, ensuring that these display pieces continue to effectively showcase the allure and elegance of the perfumes they represent.
The Allure of Larger Factices: A Collector's Delight
Among collectors of perfume memorabilia, larger factices are generally much more desired than their smaller counterparts. These oversized display bottles, often referred to as giant factices, make a striking visual impact and serve as captivating centerpieces in any collection. Their substantial size enhances the allure and prestige of the perfume brand they represent, making them particularly appealing to enthusiasts and collectors alike.
The most coveted factices are those marked with the prestigious names of Lalique or Baccarat. These signed pieces are crafted by renowned glassmakers, known for their exquisite artistry and exceptional quality. Factices bearing the Lalique or Baccarat mark command the highest prices in the market, reflecting their rarity and the craftsmanship involved in their creation. These pieces are not just display items but are also considered valuable works of art, appreciated for their beauty and sophistication.
For those looking to add to their collection, factices can be found relatively easily on platforms like eBay. A wide variety of these display bottles are available, ranging in size, design, and brand. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of perfume displays, the accessibility of factices on online marketplaces provides an excellent opportunity to enhance your collection.
Why not add a stunning factice to your collection today? These display bottles not only offer a glimpse into the history and marketing of perfumes but also serve as elegant decorative pieces that can transform the ambiance of any space. With their combination of beauty, rarity, and historical significance, factices are a delightful addition for any perfume enthusiast.
Collecting Smaller Factices:
Smaller factice bottles offer a wonderful opportunity for decorative displays, whether on a vanity or in a window, without risking the exposure of precious perfume bottles to light and heat. This practice not only protects your actual perfume collection but also allows you to showcase the beauty of factices in a safe and aesthetically pleasing manner.
Placing smaller factice bottles on your dressing table or your bathroom vanity adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to your personal space. They can serve as exquisite ornaments, reflecting the artistry and craftsmanship of the perfume industry. This display option not only enhances the ambiance of your dressing area but also invites admiration from guests and visitors who appreciate fine perfumery and its historical significance.
In window displays, smaller factices can captivate attention with their intricate designs and vibrant colors, offering a glimpse into the world of luxury perfumery. Their presence can create a focal point that draws the eye, making them an ideal choice for showcasing your passion for perfume in a tasteful and decorative manner.
By utilizing smaller factice bottles for display purposes, you not only preserve the condition of your valuable perfume collection but also celebrate the art of perfumery in a thoughtful and visually appealing way. This approach allows you to enjoy the beauty of factices while ensuring that your cherished perfumes remain protected and preserved for long-lasting enjoyment.
Selling Factices:
When exploring the world of perfume displays, it's crucial not to confuse testers with factices. Testers are advertising bottles filled with actual perfume and are meant to be used for sampling. These bottles are typically placed on counters in stores, allowing customers to experience the fragrance before making a purchase. Unlike factices, testers are intended for practical use and, as such, contain the genuine perfume.
Testers often come without a cap or box, distinguishing them from the full retail versions. This lack of packaging helps reduce costs and indicates that the bottle is intended for testing purposes rather than for sale. However, some stores do sell testers, and there are companies that wholesale testers to the public, making them available for purchase at a lower price than the fully packaged product.
In contrast, a factice is a display bottle that is not meant for use. Factices, or dummy bottles, are created to replicate the appearance of the actual perfume bottle but are filled with colored liquid or left empty. These bottles are designed solely for visual appeal in store displays and are not sold to consumers. Factices often come in various sizes, from smaller versions to much larger-than-life examples known as giant factices. These display items can be made from materials such as glass, crystal, plastic, or acrylic, and may be marked with "dummy," "factice," or "not for resale" to prevent confusion.
For collectors and enthusiasts, distinguishing between testers and factices is important. When listing or searching for these items, it's essential to use the correct terminology. Including "factice" in your title and description ensures that collectors can easily find these display bottles. Moreover, it demonstrates honesty and transparency for those seeking actual perfume bottles, who will appreciate knowing whether they are looking at a factice or a tester.
Lastly, consider shipping preferences if you are buying or selling a factice. Due to their weight when filled, some buyers prefer factices to be emptied before shipping to reduce shipping costs. If this is your preference, make sure to communicate this with the seller.
By understanding the distinction between testers and factices, both collectors and consumers can make informed decisions, ensuring they acquire the correct item for their needs. Whether you are drawn to the visual appeal of a factice or the functional use of a tester, each plays a unique role in the world of perfumes and their marketing.
How to determine if your bottle is a factice:
Determining whether your bottle is a factice or a genuine perfume bottle involves observing several key indicators that distinguish between the two. Here are some simple methods to help you identify if you have a factice:
Shake the Bottle:
Firstly, shake the bottle gently. If you notice floating flaky particles or flaky sediment in the liquid, it is likely a factice. These particles are often caused by bacteria forming inside the colored water or liquid used in factices for display purposes.
Next, shake the bottle again and observe the contents closely. If you see a clear separation of the liquid, with small balls of oily substance floating in what appears to be alcohol, then you likely have a genuine perfume bottle. Natural raw materials such as vanilla and jasmine absolute in actual perfume can often turn into sediment or small balls of oil floating in the alcohol over the years. Perfume oils can thicken over time due to evaporation, leaving small oil balls in the alcohol base or a concentrated syrup.
Waxed Paper Seal:
Check if the bottle has a waxed paper seal. Vintage perfume bottles typically have a seal made of waxed onion paper to prevent spillage during shipment. The stopper may also be secured with a cord wrapped around the neck of the bottle. While some factices, such as those from Chanel, may mimic this sealing method, genuine vintage perfume bottles commonly feature this specific type of seal.
Does It Have A Scent?
Another clue is the scent around the mouth of the bottle. If you can detect a perfume smell, it is not a factice. Factices are designed solely for display and should not contain any perfume fragrance.
Color of Liquid:
When examining the color of the liquid in a bottle, it can provide valuable clues to determine whether it is a factice or a genuine perfume. Vintage perfumes, such as Replique by Raphael or Mitsouko by Guerlain, often undergo a natural aging process where their original vibrant colors, like green in these examples, may darken over time due to exposure to air and light. This aging typically results in shades ranging from deep yellow to brownish hues in the liquid inside genuine perfume bottles.
In contrast, factices are designed for display purposes and are filled with colored water or a similar liquid that does not change color over time. If the liquid in your bottle maintains a consistent green color, matching the original hue of the perfume as it was first introduced, it is likely a factice. The stable coloration of factices distinguishes them from genuine perfumes, where aging of natural oils can alter the liquid's appearance significantly.
This distinction is particularly useful for collectors and enthusiasts seeking authenticity in their acquisitions. By understanding how the color of the liquid should evolve over time for genuine perfumes versus the stable appearance of factices, you can confidently assess the nature of your bottle and appreciate its place in the realm of perfume history and memorabilia.
Discoloration:
Inspect the stopper and the neck of the bottle for any signs of discoloration or residue. Vintage perfume bottles often show residue and discoloration due to the oils and evaporation process. Factice bottles, on the other hand, should appear clear and clean without any residue inside.
By applying these methods, you can confidently determine whether your bottle is a factice or a genuine perfume bottle, ensuring clarity for both collectors and enthusiasts in the world of perfume memorabilia.
Liquid for Refilling Factices:
Refilling an empty factice with a colored solution can restore its aesthetic appeal for display purposes, but it's essential to use the right ingredients to avoid potential issues. Using plain tap water is not advisable due to the presence of bacteria, which can lead to the formation of floating flakes and mold over time. These contaminants not only detract from the visual appeal but can also cause irreversible clouding or etching of the glass, significantly diminishing the value and appearance of your bottle.
Even distilled water, while purer than tap water, may contain trace minerals that can contribute to glass etching. Therefore, the recommended choice for refilling factices is demineralized water, which undergoes a process to remove minerals and impurities more effectively.
To create a suitable colored solution for your factice, consider the following recommended mixture:
- Demineralized Water: Start with demineralized water to ensure purity and minimize the risk of glass damage.
- Food Coloring or Colored Dye: Add a small amount of food coloring or a specific colored dye that matches the original hue of the perfume intended for display. This ensures the liquid inside the factice resembles the authentic appearance of the perfume it represents.
- Preservative: Optionally, include a preservative to prevent bacterial growth and maintain the clarity of the liquid over time. This step is crucial to prevent issues like mold or clouding.
By following these guidelines, you can effectively refill your factice with a colored solution that mimics the look of perfume while preserving the integrity of the bottle. This approach not only enhances its visual appeal for display but also safeguards its value as a collectible item in the world of perfume memorabilia.
Mix the following:
- 3/4 parts rubbing alcohol
- 1/4 part demineralized water
To make the colored dye to mimic perfume, mix the following:
- A few drops of food coloring (or a small amount of gel food/icing color on the end of a toothpick)
- Small amount of warm water
When preparing a colored solution to refill a factice, it's crucial to follow a precise method to achieve the desired effect without compromising the appearance or quality of the bottle. After choosing demineralized water as the base to prevent glass etching and ensuring purity, the next step involves adding the coloring mixture to the alcohol solution. This approach ensures proper mixing and avoids issues like colored bubbles that may arise if food coloring is added directly into the alcohol.
To achieve the correct color for your factice, it's advisable to use food coloring in specific proportions. For instance, for perfumes with floral, chypre, aldehydic, or light characteristics, a small amount of yellow coloring can create a delicate yellow juice appearance. If you're aiming for orange tones, mix small amounts of red and yellow, adjusting the ratios to match the intended hue. For heavier perfumes like aldehydes or oriental scents, adding a touch of brown can deepen the color appropriately.
It's beneficial to reference online resources to accurately match the color of the perfume intended for display in your factice. These references provide visual guidance on the expected hue, ensuring authenticity in your presentation. In cases where exact matches are challenging due to the age of the bottle or limited information, opting for shades like yellow or brownish-orange can provide a harmonious and visually appealing solution.
By carefully following these steps and considerations, you can effectively refill your factice with a colored solution that mirrors the original perfume's appearance. This meticulous approach not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your display but also preserves the historical and collectible value of the factice in the world of perfume enthusiasts and collectors.
When refilling your factice with the colored alcohol mixture, it's essential to use precision and care to maintain the bottle's integrity and value. Begin by preparing a steady hand, a medicine dropper, plastic pipette, or a funnel to carefully decant the alcohol mixture into the factice. This method helps prevent spills and ensures that the liquid is transferred without wetting the labels, which could cause staining or rippling over time.
Avoid filling the factice all the way to the top. Leaving some "headspace" is crucial to allow for expansion of the glass, especially if temperature changes occur. This precaution helps prevent any potential pressure buildup inside the bottle, which could affect its structural integrity.
If you have leftover colored mixture after refilling, it's advisable to store it properly for future use. Seal it in a clean, airtight container to maintain its freshness and prevent contamination. This way, you can easily replenish your factice the next time it needs a refill without the need to remix the solution, ensuring consistency in color and presentation.
By following these steps attentively, you can effectively refill your factice while preserving its condition and value as a collectible item. This approach not only enhances the visual appeal of your display but also ensures that your factice maintains its authenticity and aesthetic charm in showcasing the essence of the original perfume it represents.
Has there ever been a case of a Guerlain factice being marked as such, but in fact was found to contain perfume? I recently purchased two Shalimar (vintage 60’s and 70’s) through an online auction. One, had been opened at some point - it was NOT marked in any way indicating a dummy, and it smelled just like Shalimar but the scent fades nearly immediately- was a scented alcohol formulation ever used? In the case of the other Shalimar bottle, “Dummy” is indeed etched on the bottom, yet there is a paper stamp on the bottom “39 Alcoholique” in green lettering, the neck of the bottle is not only sealed with a deep blue “waxed paper” looking seal but the intricately tied blue/gold cord and seal. When shaken, there are tiny bubbles that appear and rise up to the top and there is a slight “clean” foam which dissipates. The liquid is a clear golden - a light whiskey/amber but not dark - all indications this might actually contain perfume. I’m dying to open this, thinking it might be perfume and have carefully unwrapped the ribbon and removed the wax paper seal but the stopper will not budge. Could this be perfume? Did Guerlain “permanently” seal some of the crystal bottles? More importantly (interesting) are there known cases of mistakes? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteI want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for this incredibly in depth source. You answered every possible question I had and this is some serious expertise! I had a Giant Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Factise shipped from England to Canada so I had to recreate the contents. Your instructions were superb and it looks spot on. So much love!
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