Parfums Calixte

Calixte, the fashion house, was renowned for its refined aesthetic and operated from 227 rue St.-Honoré in Paris, a district synonymous with luxury and haute couture. In the 1940s, the brand ventured into perfumery, introducing a small but distinctive collection of fragrances. These perfumes, crafted with the sophistication and artistry of the era, have since become exceedingly rare. Their scarcity is a result of limited production, the passage of time, and their specific historical context during a tumultuous period in Europe.

The name Calixte is of Greek origin, derived from the masculine name Callistus or its feminine counterpart Callista, meaning "most beautiful" or "most excellent." It carries connotations of beauty, excellence, and nobility, which align perfectly with its use as the name of a Parisian fashion house. The name is pronounced kah-LEEXT in French, reflecting its elegance and sophistication.

Today, Calixte's perfumes are highly sought after by collectors and vintage perfume enthusiasts, though they are rarely found in the modern market. These elusive treasures hold a unique place in the history of perfumery, representing a bygone era of exclusivity and artisanal excellence.

Parfumerie Brissac

Parfumerie Brissac was a French company established in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1917 by L. Aubert y Cía.  (L. Aubert y Compania, Jorge Newbery St. Buenos Aires). They were associated with Les Parfums Persans. Brissac was still in business in 1924.

CB Rocca

In 1946, Clara Hirsch, operating under the business name Rocca in Paris, France, filed a trademark registration. This registration covered a range of products including perfume, rouge (cosmetic), and dentifrice (toothpaste) under the name CB Rocca. The filing date for the trademark was July 30, 1946.

The trademark registration claimed use of the Rocca brand since May 25, 1897. This suggests that Clara Hirsch had been actively using the Rocca name for these products for nearly half a century before the trademark filing.

In 1946, ownership of the Rocca trademark belonged to Clara Hirsch, indicating her established role in the perfumery and cosmetic industry in Paris. The long history of the Rocca brand underscores its enduring presence and reputation in the marketplace from the late 19th century onward.

Alphonse Rallet

Alphonse Rallet (1819-1894) established his perfumery company Rallet in Moscow in 1843. Rallet's perfumes, soaps and cosmetics were so popular that by 1900, he was the most distinguished of all perfumeries in Russia. His excellence in quality made him the official supplier to the royal courts of Russia, Romania, Serbia, Persia and Montenegro.


After the death of Alphonse Rallet, the company was purchased by Chiris, a raw material supplier from Grasse, France. When the Russian Revolution took over and Rallet's Russian assets were nationalized in 1917, the company was reestablished in France. It was here in 1920, that the famous perfumer and technical director, Ernest Beaux , created several perfumes for Gabrielle Chanel, most notably Chanel No. 5, which remains a best seller almost 100 years after its creation in 1921.

"A. Ралле и Ко."

Poujol

Poujol, founded by Gustav K. Poujol, was a prominent name in the fragrance and cosmetic industry. The company was renowned for its imported French perfumes, which were carried in the United States by Mandel Brothers. This partnership helped Poujol’s luxury products reach a broader American audience, underscoring the brand’s appeal and quality.

In addition to its distinguished line of perfumes, Poujol offered a wide range of personal care products. The company’s offerings included sachets, soap, talcum powder, and toilet waters. Poujol also extended its product line to cosmetics, featuring face powders and compacts, lipsticks, rouge, and cleansing tissues. This comprehensive range demonstrated Poujol's commitment to beauty and personal grooming, catering to various aspects of daily care and elegance.

Parfumerie Brecher

Parfumerie Brecher, founded by Paul Brecher in Pontoise around 1910, underwent a significant change in ownership after 1918 when Jacques Ernest Mazurier took over. Mazurier relocated the company to 10 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle in Paris. Under Mazurier's ownership, the perfumes were labeled as 'Aux Perfumeries Reunites'.

The company had affiliations with Benoit and Marquis de Elorza, indicating its network and possibly collaborations within the perfume industry during that era.

Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc.

Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc. was an obscure yet intriguing Parisian perfume company with a flair for distinctive fragrances. Little information is available about the company’s origins or its lasting impact, but it's perfumes have an air of post-war mystique, suggesting a blend of French elegance with a hint of the exotic. The brand’s creations reflect a unique identity that appealed to both Parisian and international markets during a time of vibrant creativity in perfumery. Despite its relatively low profile compared to other French houses, Jean D'Hennery’s fragrances still capture attention, especially among vintage perfume enthusiasts seeking rare scents from lesser-known artisans of the era.

In the United States, Jean D'Hennery operated as Jean D'Hennery, Inc., under the business name Nemours in New York, New York. This dual branding likely helped the company gain a foothold in the American market, leveraging the allure of French perfumery while adapting to local tastes. Nemours served as an avenue for Jean D'Hennery’s perfumes to reach a broader audience, hinting at the company’s desire to extend its appeal beyond French borders, despite its modest renown.

In 1946, a new charter for corporation was filed in Delaware, by the Jean D'Hennery, Parfumeur Inc. with a capital of $25,000. Its principal office was US Corporation Company.

Parfumerie Fouillat

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Parfumerie Fouillat of Grenoble, France, launched a range of perfumes in the 1920s. Most likely a short-lived company. In addition to perfumes, the company also produced lotions, powders, creams and soaps.

The perfumes of Fouillat:

• 1920 Bouquet d'Orient
• 1924 Grenoble
• 1920 Pecheresse/Pecherose
• 1922 Son Peche
• 1927 Les Fleurs

Les Parfums de Vega

Les Parfums de Vega was founded in 1910 by J. Piot at 18 rue de Genas, Lyon, establishing itself as a notable name in the early 20th-century French perfume industry. Known for its creative approach to fragrance and elegant presentations, the brand flourished during the golden age of perfumery. By the late 1920s, Les Parfums de Vega remained active, reflecting the enduring appeal of its creations.

In 1927, the company’s operations expanded, and its address was listed under the names "Parfumerie SNO" and "Parfumerie Norma," located at 1 rue de Gaz in Villeurbanne-les-Lyon, Rhone. This transition to dual branding and a new location suggests strategic efforts to innovate and adapt to the evolving market. Despite the scarcity of records detailing its later years, Les Parfums de Vega’s legacy offers a glimpse into the thriving perfume culture of early 20th-century France.

Perfumes:

In 1927, Les Parfums de Vega introduced two fragrances that embodied the romantic and passionate spirit of the era: Coeur Ardent ("Ardent Heart") and Flambeau d'Amour ("Torch of Love"). Each name evokes intense emotion, offering a poetic prelude to the scents themselves.

Coeur Ardent (Ardent Heart):

The name suggests a fiery and passionate essence, symbolic of deep, unwavering love. This fragrance likely featured warm, enveloping notes that mirrored the intensity of its name. Ingredients such as amber and spicy accords could have formed the heart of the perfume, complemented by rich florals like jasmine and carnation, which symbolize passion and devotion. A base of smoky vetiver, creamy sandalwood, and perhaps a hint of labdanum or benzoin might have lent depth and complexity, embodying the "ardent" nature of the heart. The overall scent would have been bold yet tender, a tribute to love’s burning flame.

Flambeau d'Amour (Torch of Love):

The name conjures an image of a glowing beacon, illuminating love's path with radiant intensity. This perfume likely carried an opulent floral-oriental profile, with notes of exotic blooms such as ylang-ylang, orange blossom, and Turkish rose creating a luminous heart. Spices like cinnamon or clove could have added a spark of warmth, while a base of sweet, resinous amber and powdery musk ensured a sultry finish. The fragrance’s construction would have captured the essence of love as both a guiding light and a consuming fire.

These perfumes were more than olfactory creations; they were expressions of emotion, designed to resonate with the cultural sensibilities of the Roaring Twenties. During this period, luxury and opulence were in vogue, and fragrances like Coeur Ardent and Flambeau d'Amour catered to the desire for personal expression and sensuality. Their evocative names and compositions offered wearers a way to embody the romance and intensity that defined the age.

A 1927 advertisement for Les Parfums de Vega captures the brand’s essence with vivid detail and an air of exclusivity. It begins with the proud declaration: “Les Parfums de Vega. Artistic Bottles and Perfumes.” This phrase highlights the harmonious pairing of fine fragrance with expertly crafted bottles, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to artful presentation.

The advertisement continues, describing the bottles as “engraved and patinated glassworks,” showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship and luxurious detailing that elevated these flacons to objects of desire. The perfumes themselves are lauded as “tenacious and ultra-lasting,” emphasizing their exceptional quality and appeal to those who valued enduring scents. This durability would have been a selling point in an era where longevity signified luxury.

The brand promises a “modern and entirely unique presentation,” a reflection of the avant-garde spirit of the late 1920s. The mention of “grand luxury packaging” signals that even the outer cartons were designed to impress, with no detail overlooked in crafting an indulgent experience for the consumer.

The ad also references “The international success of 1921,” likely alluding to an earlier triumph that established the brand’s reputation and lent credibility to their newer offerings. Despite the luxurious qualities of the perfumes and their presentation, the advertisement intriguingly mentions “very limited prices,” appealing to both connoisseurs of fine fragrance and those aspiring to indulge in the high-end perfume market.

Finally, the text offers a business opportunity, stating, “Exclusive rights available in each country,” and invites potential partners to secure a monopoly for distributing the perfumes. It concludes by mentioning “two complete sample boxes available by postal delivery for 80 francs,” a practical incentive for interested buyers to experience the offerings firsthand.

This advertisement encapsulates the brand's commitment to artistry, innovation, and luxury, all while positioning itself as both accessible and exclusive. The message is one of timeless allure, blending fine craftsmanship, modern aesthetics, and a touch of entrepreneurial opportunity.

Leon et Cie

Leon et Cie: Established by Leon Cohn in c1900 in Paris, parent company of below.

Les Parfums Brajan

Les Parfums Brajan Parfums was established by Ernest Weil and Georges Levy-Say at 17 rue Saint-Florentine, Paris in 1926. The company launched a range of fragrances in the 1920’s and early 1930s.

Parfums G. Doyen

Parfums G. Doyen Paris was established in the early 1940s at rue de Caumartin, Paris, France.

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Parfumerie and Savonnerie Gilot et Cie

Full name Parfumerie et Savonnerie Gilot et Cie; fragrances, soaps and cosmetics, established by Emile Gilot at 68 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin, Paris in the early 1900’s; related to Dubarry; trademark perfume and cosmetic line was 'Soir de Paris' in 1925; prior to launched of similar fragrance by Bourjois in 1929. Acquired C.P. Blaise.

Parfums Grenoville

Parfums Grenoville, originally established as Parfumerie Grenoville by Paul Grenoville in 1879, has a fascinating history rooted in the heart of Paris. The founder, Paul Grenoville, chose to change his family name from 'grenouille', which translates to 'frog' in French, to 'Grenoville', likely to add a more elegant and sophisticated touch to the brand's identity. This subtle yet significant change helped position the brand within the luxurious and refined world of Parisian perfumery. Located at 20 rue Royale, the house of Grenoville became known for its exquisite fragrances, contributing to the rich tapestry of Paris's renowned perfumery heritage.

Auzière

Auzière of Paris and Marseille, France; launched a range of fragrances from c1920 to 1950’s, also had an office in Nashville, TN.

The Perfumes of Coryse Salome & Cartier

Coryse was established in 1919 by Maurice Blanchetat 64 rue de la Chaussee-d'Antin, Paris and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. He purchased the perfumery Salome in 1929 and the two companies merged into Coryse-Salome.

Parfumerie Rafin

Parfumerie  Rafin, 5 avenue Victoria, Paris, established in 1855 by Henri Rafin, a pharmacist. Launched fragrances in mid 1920's.

Company seems to have been taken over by Georges Moehr of Parfumerie Moehr of Monte-Carlo by the 1940s.

Les Creations Guyla

Les Créations Guyla was established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Épinay-sur-Seine, a northern suburb of Paris. Though the company was short-lived, it left a notable mark with its exceptional perfume presentations, aligning perfectly with the artistic and cultural trends of the Art Deco period. These designs often featured the bold geometric shapes, intricate patterns, and luxurious materials characteristic of the era, encapsulating the opulence and elegance of 1920s perfumery.

The name Guyla has roots in Hungarian and is pronounced as "GHEE-lah" with a soft 'g,' similar to the English word "gear." In Hungarian, the name is a male given name that originates from ancient Magyar history, associated with a tribal leader or nobleman. The name carries connotations of strength, leadership, and tradition, though it is unclear whether the company founders intended this cultural reference or simply selected the name for its aesthetic or exotic appeal.

Unfortunately, little information is available about the company’s founders, operations, or reasons for its closure. However, its legacy lies in the exquisite craftsmanship and Art Deco aesthetics of its perfume bottles and packaging, which continue to captivate collectors and perfume historians alike.

Les Parfums de Jaspy

Les Parfums de Jaspy of Paris, established at 75 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris in 1910, and subtitled "Parfums Modernes et Originaux". The company was very  short-lived.

The New York French Export Company was the sole distributor of Jaspy in 1920.

The perfumes of Jaspy:

• 1920 Jasmin
• 1920 Ambre
• 1921 Buisson Fleuri
• 1921 Fleurs Bois
• 1921 Kadoura
• 1921 Muscadin
• 1921 Myrodata
• 1921 La Tulipe Noire
• 1921 Rose de Chemin
• 1921 L'Eglantine de la Reine
• 1922 Le Petit Chose
• 1922 Victoirie Lilas
• 1927 Lilas
• 1927 Narcissus
• 1927 Violet

Le Petit Chose by Jaspy: launched in 1922, clear glass pear shaped flacon with stopper made up of milk glass, a stylized man's head wearing a black hat. Bottle made in memory of French author, Alphonse Daudet who wrote the novel Le P'tite Chose.


The New York Times, 1921:

"Fascinating Jaspy perfumes, the rose in its slender tapering bottle and 'Petit Chose. L'Eglantine de la Reine, with its delicate glass horseshoe carved by Lalique."

Parfumerie Lubin

Parfumerie Lubin was established at 11 rue Royale, Paris in 1798 by Pierre-Francois Lubin as Aux Armes de France, a perfume boutique that produced a range of fragrant lotions, powders and toilet waters. Lubin claimed ownership and use of all the secret beauty formulas of the French court.