Parfums Calixte

Calixte, the fashion house, was renowned for its refined aesthetic and operated from 227 rue St.-Honoré in Paris, a district synonymous with luxury and haute couture. In the 1940s, the brand ventured into perfumery, introducing a small but distinctive collection of fragrances. These perfumes, crafted with the sophistication and artistry of the era, have since become exceedingly rare. Their scarcity is a result of limited production, the passage of time, and their specific historical context during a tumultuous period in Europe.

The name Calixte is of Greek origin, derived from the masculine name Callistus or its feminine counterpart Callista, meaning "most beautiful" or "most excellent." It carries connotations of beauty, excellence, and nobility, which align perfectly with its use as the name of a Parisian fashion house. The name is pronounced kah-LEEXT in French, reflecting its elegance and sophistication.

Today, Calixte's perfumes are highly sought after by collectors and vintage perfume enthusiasts, though they are rarely found in the modern market. These elusive treasures hold a unique place in the history of perfumery, representing a bygone era of exclusivity and artisanal excellence.

The perfumes of Calixte:

• 1944 - Rage
• 1945 - Givre, Winter Scent
• 1945 - Add
• 1946 - Cuir
• 1947 - Ulysses, Perfume of Adventure

Woman, 1946:

""Cuir" from Calixte seems to us to be reserved for sportswomen, those who smoke, who drive their cars, who are independent and don't like overly suave perfumes. "Cuir" is a deep perfume. Tenacious, based on leather from Russia."

Bottles:

Ulysse:

The name Ulysse is the French form of Ulysses, which itself is derived from the Latin name Ulixes, the Roman adaptation of the Greek Odysseus (Ὀδυσσεύς). It is steeped in classical mythology and literature, famously referring to the hero of Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey. Ulysse is pronounced oo-LEESS in French, a smooth and lyrical pronunciation that reflects its cultural sophistication and timeless appeal.

The name Ulysse symbolizes adventure, resilience, and the enduring quest for excellence, qualities that likely inspired Parfums Calixte to choose it for a fragrance. Naming a perfume Ulysse aligns with the Greek hero’s storied journey, suggesting a scent that embodies a bold, transformative experience—perhaps evoking faraway places, epic tales, or a voyage through evocative and luxurious olfactory landscapes.

For a brand like Parfums Calixte, which exuded exclusivity and artistic flair, naming a fragrance Ulysse would have added an air of intellectual and cultural depth to the product. It reflects the timeless values of sophistication, exploration, and the beauty of the unexpected, resonating with the mythological and literary traditions that continue to captivate.

The perfume Ulysse by Calixte is notable not only for its scent but also for its distinctive and creative packaging. It comes in a unique cardboard box lined with titled polychrome paper that mimics the appearance of a postal parcel. The interior of the box is illustrated with a geographical map, adding a whimsical and exploratory theme to the presentation.

The perfume bottle itself is a standard square shape made of colorless glass, featuring an illustrated label. Additionally, it includes a pouch made of suede imitation fabrics designed for carrying the bottle in a bag. This playful and detailed presentation highlights the artistic and innovative approach Calixte took in both fashion and perfumery, making Ulysse a memorable and collectible item despite its rarity today. Image: drouot.

Givre:

The word Givre is French and translates to "frost" or "hoarfrost" in English. Pronounced as zhee-vruh (with a soft "zh" sound like the "s" in "measure" and a barely pronounced "ruh" at the end), it evokes imagery of delicate, crystalline frost patterns that form on cold surfaces during winter mornings. The term carries connotations of fragility, elegance, and natural beauty, making it both visually and emotionally evocative.

Parfums Calixte likely chose the name Givre for their perfume to convey these very qualities—delicacy, refinement, and a certain cool allure. Frost symbolizes purity and uniqueness, as no two frost patterns are identical, much like the individuality of a fine fragrance. The name also suggests a sensory experience that is fresh and crisp, perhaps hinting at the fragrance's composition or mood.

The use of a French word would also appeal to the luxury market, as French is often associated with high fashion, fine art, and premium perfumery. By naming their perfume Givre, Parfums Calixte positioned it as a sophisticated and elegant offering, aligning with the cultural prestige and artistry that French words often imply in the world of fragrance.

The perfume Givre by Calixte is housed in a rare and striking modernist bottle crafted from solid colorless pressed glass. The bottle features a cubic rectangular section, giving it a sleek and minimalist aesthetic. At its square terminal, there are protruding gadroons, adding texture and visual interest to the design.

The flat cap of the bottle is covered with a heavy glass capsule adorned with the same decorative gadroon pattern, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. Interestingly, this distinctive bottle design was also utilized for another Calixte perfume, Cuir, showcasing the brand's penchant for elegant and innovative packaging.

The combination of the modernist bottle design and the luxurious heavy glass construction reflects the sophistication and attention to detail characteristic of Calixte perfumes, making Givre a unique and covetable addition to any fragrance collection. Cuir. Image: drouot.