Parfums de Choisy

Parfums de Choisy, the perfume company from Paris, indeed launched a small range of perfumes during the 1930s. Despite sharing a similar name with Choisy le Roy, the famous glassmakers, these two entities were distinct in their products and industries. Parfums de Choisy capitalized on Paris's reputation as a center for luxury and fashion, offering fragrances that likely reflected the trends and styles of the time. This period marked a vibrant era for French perfumery, with many houses competing to create distinctive scents that appealed to the fashionable elite.

Cigalia by Roger et Gallet c1910

"Cigalia" by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1910, a period that coincided with the height of the Art Nouveau movement. This era, spanning roughly from 1890 to 1910, was characterized by its emphasis on natural forms, intricate lines, and organic motifs. Insects, particularly those with intricate and delicate forms like cicadas, became popular symbols and design elements in various forms of art, jewelry, and fashion. The appreciation of nature's elegance and complexity resonated deeply with the cultural and artistic sensibilities of the time.

The name "Cigalia" is derived from the word "cigale," which means "cicada" in French. Cicadas are known for their distinctive life cycle and the loud, rhythmic songs produced by the males to attract females. These insects are particularly famous for emerging en masse after spending years underground as nymphs, a phenomenon that has captured human fascination for centuries. Their emergence is often associated with the arrival of summer, symbolizing renewal and the passage of time.

The sound cicadas make is a high-pitched, continuous buzz, produced by the rapid buckling of tymbals, a part of their exoskeleton. This sound is synonymous with the heat of summer and the fullness of nature's bloom. Cicadas typically emerge during the warmer months, their life cycles synchronized with the seasons to maximize the chances of survival for their offspring.

In cultural symbolism, cicadas often represent longevity, immortality, and rebirth due to their unique life cycle. In various traditions, they are seen as harbingers of change and transformation, making "Cigalia" a name imbued with rich and evocative meanings. For a perfume, this name suggests a sense of timelessness, renewal, and the beauty of nature, qualities that would have been appealing to the sophisticated women of the Belle Époque.

Collecting Blue Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of blue glass. The allure of these bottles lies not only in their aesthetic appeal but also in the history and craftsmanship behind them. Most of the bottles in this guide date to the 1920s and 1930s period.

Starting a collection with a specific focus, such as blue glass perfume bottles, can add a unique dimension to your hobby. It provides a clear direction and allows you to curate a cohesive and visually stunning collection.

When embarking on this journey, consider exploring various sources such as antique shops, flea markets, online auctions, and specialized collector forums. You may encounter a diverse range of designs, from simple and utilitarian to ornate and intricately decorated bottles.

It's essential to educate yourself about the different styles, manufacturers, and historical context surrounding these bottles. This knowledge will not only enhance your appreciation for the pieces you acquire but also help you make informed decisions when assessing their value and authenticity.

As your collection grows, documenting each acquisition with details such as the maker, design characteristics, and acquisition date can enrich your understanding of the evolving trends in perfume bottle design and production.

Additionally, connecting with fellow collectors can be a rewarding aspect of the hobby. Exchanging insights, sharing discoveries, and participating in community events or exhibitions can deepen your engagement with the subject and foster meaningful connections with like-minded enthusiasts.

Remember, collecting is as much about the joy of discovery and appreciation as it is about the tangible objects themselves. So, immerse yourself in the enchanting world of blue glass perfume bottles, and let your collection reflect your passion and individual style!

Vers Toi by Worth c1934

Vers Toi by Worth: launched in 1934. Originally created by Maurice Blanchet.  The name means "Towards You" in French.

Sans Adieu by Worth c1929

Sans Adieu by Worth: launched in 1929.

Je Reviens by Worth c1932

Je Reviens by Worth: launched in 1932. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Vers le Jour by Worth c1924

Vers le Jour by Worth: (Towards Dawn) launched in 1924, in USA by 1925. Created by Maurice Blanchet.

Dans la Nuit by Worth c1924

Dans la Nuit by Worth: (In the Night) launched in 1922 in France, it was available in a wider distribution in 1924. This was Worth's signature fragrance; created by Maurice Blanchet; it was initially a gift to distinguished clientele of the fashion house. The perfume’s production was halted during WW2, it didn’t reach counters on US shores again until 1953.

Mystere by D'Orsay c1915

Mystere by D'Orsay: launched in 1915.

Jean de Parys

Parfums de Jean de Parys, a distinguished fragrance house, was founded in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre, a suburb of Paris situated in the Seine department. This Parisian brand quickly gained a reputation for creating exquisite perfumes that embodied the sophistication and elegance of French perfumery.

The brand's influence extended across the Atlantic when Arthur Feldman, operating under the name Jean de Parys in New York, secured the trademark for the name in the United States in 1924. Feldman recognized the growing demand for luxury beauty products in America and sought to bring the allure of Parisian fragrances to an eager American audience.

By 1925, Feldman had partnered with J. H. Wisan and L. Ashworth to establish the Jean de Parys Corporation in New York City. With an initial capital of $25,000, they set out to produce not only perfumes but also a range of beauty products, including face creams, powders, and rouge. This expansion marked a significant step in the brand's evolution, allowing it to establish a strong foothold in the competitive American market.

Through its Parisian roots and strategic business moves in the United States, Parfums de Jean de Parys became a symbol of transatlantic luxury, blending the artistry of French perfumery with the entrepreneurial spirit of New York.

 

Claire Parfumeur, Inc

Claire Parfumeur, Inc  of Paris, France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker , a member of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the US. Claire also had a shop at Fifth Avenue, New York; launched a range of fragrances: associated to Evenod Parfumeur.

Tresor de la Mer by Lalique for Saks Fifth Avenue c1939

In 1939, Saks Fifth Avenue celebrated the 50th anniversary of the opening of their department store, which had opened in 1889. To herald this achievement, in 1936, they commissioned a special perfume bottle to be created by master craftsman, Rene Lalique.


Lalique answered the call with a fabulous perfume flacon in the shape of a pearl, hidden inside an giant sea shell box, called the Tresor de la Mer, or Treasure of the Sea.


The opalescent glass object was only made in a limited edition of just 100 examples. The original retail price of this flacon was $50. The clear and frosted opalescent crystal shell was made in hues of oceanic blues and fiery oranges which seemed to glow from within. The giant shell rested on molded aquatic plants and parting waves. Inside, is little spherical perfume flacon rested. The top and bottom of the shell are connected by metal hinges. The shell bottle was presented inside a red velvet presentation box that was lined in gold silk and blue velvet.


The gorgeous perfume presentation was to be shown at the Rene Lalique exhibit at the Saks Fifth Avenue store. Today fewer than three known complete presentations still exist, they are considered rare and holy grails of Lalique perfume bottle collecting.


The most recent example sold for a whopping $180,000 at David Rago Auctions in 2007 thru an eBay live auction.


The presentation is documented in the Marcilhac book on page 949, and in the book Lalique Perfume Bottles by Glenn & Mary Lou Utt.


In 1938, Stage magazine mentioned the flacon:

"Tresor de la Mer, an exclusive Saks V perfume, at $50 an ounce, seems a good idea. It comes in a round pearl- shaped Lalique phial, inside a large Lalique silver-hinged oyster, hurried in a plush container. Such goings-on!"

It is worth noting that an equally rarer bottle was also made for tresor de la Mer, this time it is an oval bottle made up of opalescent glass and molded with a scallop shell pattern. It is topped with a round, disk shaped, opalescent glass stopper molded with gadrooning. The bottle stands 6 1/2". and is fitted with a metallic label towards the bottom of the bottle. This bottle was not made by Lalique but may have been made by Sabino.

Parfums Grenoville

Parfums Grenoville, originally established as Parfumerie Grenoville by Paul Grenoville in 1879, has a fascinating history rooted in the heart of Paris. The founder, Paul Grenoville, chose to change his family name from 'grenouille', which translates to 'frog' in French, to 'Grenoville', likely to add a more elegant and sophisticated touch to the brand's identity. This subtle yet significant change helped position the brand within the luxurious and refined world of Parisian perfumery. Located at 20 rue Royale, the house of Grenoville became known for its exquisite fragrances, contributing to the rich tapestry of Paris's renowned perfumery heritage.

Collecting Opalescent Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of opalescent glass. The allure of these bottles lies not only in their aesthetic appeal but also in the history and craftsmanship behind them. Most of the bottles in this guide date to the 1920s and 1930s period.

Starting a collection with a specific focus, such as opalescent glass perfume bottles, can add a unique dimension to your hobby. It provides a clear direction and allows you to curate a cohesive and visually stunning collection.

When embarking on this journey, consider exploring various sources such as antique shops, flea markets, online auctions, and specialized collector forums. You may encounter a diverse range of designs, from simple and utilitarian to ornate and intricately decorated bottles.

It's essential to educate yourself about the different styles, manufacturers, and historical context surrounding these bottles. This knowledge will not only enhance your appreciation for the pieces you acquire but also help you make informed decisions when assessing their value and authenticity.

As your collection grows, documenting each acquisition with details such as the maker, design characteristics, and acquisition date can enrich your understanding of the evolving trends in perfume bottle design and production.

Additionally, connecting with fellow collectors can be a rewarding aspect of the hobby. Exchanging insights, sharing discoveries, and participating in community events or exhibitions can deepen your engagement with the subject and foster meaningful connections with like-minded enthusiasts.

Remember, collecting is as much about the joy of discovery and appreciation as it is about the tangible objects themselves. So, immerse yourself in the enchanting world of opalescent glass perfume bottles, and let your collection reflect your passion and individual style!

Oviatt Perfumes

Oviatt, a department store in Los Angeles, California. The Oviatt Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels.

Commissioned by Oviatt, Lalique created their bell shaped perfume bottle for Le Parfum des Anges. Bottle created for the opening of the Oviatt-Alexander Building in 1927. The design includes the seal of the City of Los Angeles. Lalique was apparently never paid for this commission.

L'Institut de Beaute & Klytia Perfumes

L'Institut de Beaute, of 26 place Vendome, Paris. A beauty salon established in 1895 by Victor Francois Merle with Elise-Marie Valentin Le Brun. The beauty salon sold cosmetics, toiletries and some of the finest limited edition perfume presentations, most likely only available at the Paris salon. The salon later moved to 222 rue de Rivoli, Paris. They sold products to the USA under the name Klytia, as this was an affiliated company established in 1895 by Merle.

Madame Valentin Le Brun had royal appointments from the Khedive of Egypt (possibly Abbas Hilmi Pasha), the Queen of England, The Queen of Spain (possibly Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg), Princess Eulalia (Princess Eulalia Maria Antoine Eleonore of Thurn and Taxis) and others. She was also awarded the (Silver Palms medal) as an Officier d'Academie de France.

Klytia is still producing skin care products today, under the Klytia label and the L'Institut de Beaute label (here's a hint for anyone interested in trying their products, I have found plenty of L'Institut de Beaute products at the discount stores Marshalls, and TJ Maxx, all items are priced half or lower of what they retail at higher end stores.)

The perfumes of Klytia:

• Bonheur du Jour 
• Bouquet de Mai 
• Bouquet du Roy
• Cleo 
• Corté Impériale de Russia
• Deliria de Calvi
• El Jazmin
• El Radinu
• El Secret de Astarte
• Elika
• Jardin de Mohana
• Jasmin
• Le Porte-Bonheur
• Le Prefere de Rejane
• Le Vertige de Simone
• Les Fiancailles
• Mon Bonheur
• Mond Fetiche
• Mon Fol Amor
• Mouchoir de Khedive
• Perfume de Madame Recamier
• Perfume Klytia
• Perfume Principe Jaime
• Rêve de Quatre Cœurs
• Rose de 4 Cœurs
• Souverain Perfume
• Tamara
• Violette de Montagnes

The perfumes of L'Institut de Beaute:

• 1895 Bouquet de l'Empire
• 1907 Klytia
• 1910 Bouquet L'Empereur
• 1911 L'Amour Antique
• 1920 Elyane
• 1925 aube
• 1925 Exquis Printemps
• 1930 Eulalia 
• 1931 Le Bouquet du Khedive (named after the Khedive of Egypt)
• 1931 Parfum Djavidan

Harem Life - Page 245, 1931:

".. in the market as I am when I order Le Bouquet du Khedive or the Parfum Djavidan from the Institut de Beaute, in Paris."

Harem Life - Page 245, 1931:

".. in the market as I am when I order Le Bouquet du Khedive or the Parfum Djavidan from the Institut de Beaute, in Paris."

Cigalia by Roger et Gallet and Scarabee by LT Piver

Rene Lalique is well known as a genius who designed and manufactured beautiful perfume flacons. In my opinion, the two most interesting pieces were made around the same time for two different companies, LT Piver & Roger et Gallet. Each bottle is a stylized insect, a cicada and an Egyptian scarab beetle. These were popular motifs during the Art Nouveau era and must have appealed to women with refined tastes.

Martial et Armand Perfumes

Martial et Armand,  (Mahr-see-al ay Arm-ahn) couture house of 10 place Vendome, Paris.

Parfums D'Heraud

Parfums D'Heraud was founded in 1920 by Delphin Heraud and headquartered at 3 rue de la Sobliers, Courbevoie, Seine, a suburb of Paris. The choice of location, though outside the bustling heart of Paris, allowed the brand to maintain an exclusive yet accessible identity within the epicenter of the global perfume industry. Specializing in perfumes, cosmetics, and toiletries, D'Heraud quickly gained recognition for its commitment to luxury and artistry, distinguishing itself through collaborations with some of the most renowned designers of the era.

The name "D'Heraud" is rooted in French linguistic and cultural traditions, evoking a sense of nobility and refinement. The prefix "D'," a contraction of "de," implies a connection to a family lineage or place, lending the name an aristocratic tone. The surname "Heraud" could trace its origins to medieval or old French, potentially linked to personal names or historical titles, though its precise etymology remains unclear. The name, therefore, conveys an aura of heritage and sophistication, aligning seamlessly with the brand’s luxurious image. Pronounced as "DAY-roh" in English, the soft, flowing phonetics further enhance its elegant and exclusive connotations.

Raquel Meller by D. Roditi and Sons c1926

The beautiful diva Raquel Meller,  born Francisca Marqués López (1888-1962) was a Spanish actress and singer, most famous for singing about and embracing the Tango dance craze. In the 1920s, she was the toast of the London Hippodrome and the Paris Olympia, was already a highly popular singer before debuting as a film actress in 1919.