La Fuite des Heures/Fleeting Moment by Balenciaga c1947

"La Fuite des Heures" or "Fleeting Moment" by Balenciaga is a classic fragrance that was launched in 1947. It's renowned for its elegant and timeless scent, capturing the essence of fleeting moments with its sophisticated blend of notes. Germaine Cellier, a prominent perfumer known for her bold and innovative creations, was the mastermind behind this iconic fragrance. By 1949, it had made its way to the USA, further solidifying its status as a beloved scent worldwide.

Asphodele by Lentheric c1926

Asphodele by Lentheric: launched in 1926, pronounced "As Fo Del". Asphodele refers to the species of daffodil (narcissus) that grow around the Mediterranean and a species growing on both the coasts of Brittany and Galicia. In the ancient times, the daffodils were often used to bloom the grave of the dead, where the legend of Asphodel Meadow , instead of Hades in Greek mythology . I have read that the actual asphodele plant has no scent.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric: launched in 1946.

Garwood's Standard Perfumes

Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.

Société Parisienne de Verreries

SPV (Société Parisienne de Verreries/Parisian Society of Glass) at Orly. Abbreviated to 'SPV'; established by Louis de Beaune at Boulevard Auguste Blanqui in Paris in 1889; glass manufacturer, merged with C Depinoix in 1936.

Used signature ESPAIVET, which is a phonetizing of the acronym of the SPV glassworks. The earliest traces of the Société Parisienne de Verrerie are found between the years 1890 and 1925 located at 112 boulevard d'Italie (today boulevard Auguste Blanqui, in the 13th arrondissement of Paris.)

SPV initially specialized in optical glassware for the medical industry. In 1895, Pierre Curie was made technical advisor for optics in this company at this address. It was after 1925 that SPV diversified its production to make artistic and decorative objects: Mainly bottles and perfumery items as well as vases in the true Art Deco style.

There is still today a Société Parisienne de Verrerie in Orly (94) which manufactures bottles for laboratories... but the history of this company does not mention any relationship with the former SPV brand.

Colgate Perfumes

Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

• 1806: Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
• 1857: After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
• 1873: Toothpaste is first marketed.
• 1896: Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
• 1898: B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
• 1910: Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
• 1926: Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1928: Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1947: Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
• 1953: Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
• 1956: Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
• 1966: Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
• 1967: Sales top $1 billion.
• 1968: Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
• 1976: Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
• 1987: The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
• 1992: The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
• 1995: Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
• 1997: Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
• 2004: Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.

Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior c1994

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior: created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger and launched in 1994.

Intoxication by D'Orsay c1938

In 1938, the world was on the brink of World War II, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression still palpable. This was a period marked by a desire for escapism and glamour amidst uncertainties and hardships. The fashion and beauty industries often responded to such times by offering products that promised a temporary reprieve from reality, allowing people to indulge in fantasies and pleasures. "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched during this era, embodying this very spirit of escapism and allure. Notably, this was also a few years after the end of Prohibition in the United States, a time when society was embracing newfound freedoms and celebrating the return of legal alcohol consumption, which added to the zeitgeist of indulgence and revelry.

Parfums D'Orsay choosing the name "Intoxication" for their perfume speaks volumes about the emotional and sensory experience they aimed to evoke. The word "intoxication" suggests a state of being overwhelmed by powerful feelings or sensations, often associated with love and passion. In connection with love, "intoxication" conveys the idea of being so deeply enamored and consumed by another person that one feels a heady, almost dizzying sense of euphoria. This is an apt metaphor for a fragrance, which has the power to evoke strong emotional responses and create lasting impressions. In the context of the post-Prohibition era, the name also hints at a liberated, joyous embrace of pleasure and indulgence.

"Intoxication" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the transformative and alluring nature of fragrances. Perfume can create an almost magical effect, enhancing one's presence and evoking deep-seated emotions and memories. A scent that claims to intoxicate suggests that it can captivate and enthrall, much like the feeling of falling in love or being swept away by a powerful emotion. The end of Prohibition had seen a resurgence in nightlife and social gatherings, where people sought to enjoy themselves freely, and a perfume named "Intoxication" would perfectly complement this atmosphere of revelry.

In the context of perfumery, "Intoxication" relates to the concept of creating a compelling and irresistible fragrance. Perfumers aim to craft scents that can evoke strong, almost addictive responses. The name implies that the perfume has a potent and unforgettable quality, designed to leave a lasting impression on those who encounter it.

"Intoxication, the champagne fragrance that whispers 'Someone lovely has just passed by' wearing Intoxication".

Diorling by Christian Dior c1963

Diorling by Christian Dior: created by Paul Vacher and launched in 1963. The name Diorling was a play on Darling. Christian Dior adored all things British and this was his take on how the upper classes pronounced Darling.

Tendre Poison by Christian Dior c1994

Tendre Poison was created by Edouard Flechier in 1994. The bottle design is the work of Veronique Monod.

Bambou by Weil c1934

Bambou by Weil: launched in 1934.

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Dioressence by Christian Dior c1979

Dioressence by Christian Dior: created by Guy Robert and launched in 1969.

Dioressence was first available as a bath oil concentrate, to help condition and perfume the skin. In the same year, it was also available as body lotion, cologne spray concentre and eau parfumee spray (an eau de parfum), followed by friction lotion, foaming milk bath and hand soap. These items were sold from 1969 til 1975.

From 1979 onward, the fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette, body lotion, dusting powder, hand soap, talc, body cream, bath gel, solid perfume,

In 1982, the Dioressence Esprit de Parfum was introduced.

Kali by Dana c1943

 Kali by Dana was introduced in 1943, a time when the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. In the midst of such chaos, the choice of the name "Kali" is particularly evocative, as it draws from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. The name Kali originates from the Sanskrit word "kāla," which means "black" or "time," and it is associated with the Hindu goddess Kali, a figure often depicted in duality. On one hand, she embodies destruction and darkness, famously known for slaying demons and symbolizing the fierce aspects of feminine power. On the other hand, she is revered as a compassionate mother-goddess, a protector who aids her devotees. This duality evokes a spectrum of emotions—from fear and awe to comfort and nurturing—making the name Kali both powerful and complex.

In terms of scent, Kali was classified as an oriental fragrance, a category known for its warmth and exotic depth. The name itself conjures images of rich, dark spices, velvety florals, and sensual woods, capturing the essence of both the goddess's fierce nature and her nurturing side. American women of the time, navigating a world shaped by war, may have been drawn to this fragrance not only for its aromatic qualities but also for its symbolic connotations. Kali would have offered an escape, a touch of the exotic, and a reminder of the strength inherent in femininity.

The early 1940s were marked by a growing interest in Eastern cultures, largely influenced by the global war and the influx of soldiers returning home with stories from distant lands. This fascination extended into various aspects of American life, including film, art, fashion, and perfumery. Indian aesthetics began to surface in Hollywood films, often portrayed through opulent costumes and rich narratives that showcased a world of mystique. Artists and designers drew inspiration from Indian motifs and textiles, integrating them into mainstream fashion, which helped to create a sense of allure around all things Eastern.

In the context of perfumery, the use of exotic names and ingredients became increasingly popular as fragrance houses sought to capture the imagination of consumers. The choice of a name like Kali reflected not only a burgeoning interest in Indian culture but also a desire for fragrances that resonated with deeper meanings and emotional connections. As such, Kali by Dana encapsulated a moment in time, where the complexities of war coexisted with a yearning for beauty, strength, and the exotic, offering women an olfactory experience that was both empowering and evocative.

Antilope by Weil c1928

Antilope by Weil: launched in 1928. The perfume was trademarked in 1931 and was relaunched after WWII ended in 1945. Created by Claude Fraysse.

c1947 ad

Platine by Dana c1938

Platine by Dana: launched in 1938 in France and in USA by 1939.

The name means "platinum" and the bottles had silvery platinum foil flakes floating inside to resemble platinum. The fragrance was also released in Spanish-speaking countries as Platino.

Besame by Myrurgia c1922

In 1922, the year Myrurgia launched "Besame," Spain was experiencing a cultural revival intertwined with its rich history of Moorish influence and a fascination with Orientalism. This period marked a reawakening of interest in Spain's Islamic heritage, which had deeply influenced its art, architecture, and even its language over centuries of Moorish rule. The Alhambra in Granada, for instance, stood as a testament to this fusion of Moorish and Spanish cultures, captivating imaginations with its intricate designs and lush gardens.

Orientalism, a trend romanticizing Eastern cultures and aesthetics, was at its peak during this time across Europe. Spain, with its proximity to North Africa and historical ties to the Moorish world, particularly embraced this fascination. Films of the era often depicted exotic settings and themes influenced by Orientalist fantasies, showcasing a blend of mystery, sensuality, and luxury.

Myrurgia's choice of the name "Besame" for its perfume reflects this cultural milieu. In Spanish, "Besame" translates to "kiss me," evoking notions of romance, passion, and allure. Such a name would resonate deeply with women of the time period, inviting them to indulge in fantasies of seduction and elegance.

For women in the 1920s, a perfume named "Besame" would symbolize sophistication and sensuality. It would be seen as more than just a fragrance; it would embody an essence of allure and femininity, aligning with the liberated spirit of the Roaring Twenties.

Grigri by Weil c1943

Grigri by Weil: launched in 1943. The name pronounced "Gree Gree", is African in origin and means "magic charm" or "talisman." I believe that this perfume, with its exotic name and advertisements, was some sort of patriotic allusion to the French colonies in West Africa. Jean Patou, another French perfume manufacturer visited this theme with his perfume, Colony.

Xanadu by Faberge c1969

Xanadu, introduced in 1969 as a groundbreaking division of Fabergé, revolutionized the realm of skincare, toiletries, and cosmetics. The brainchild of Fabergé, Xanadu promised a fresh approach to personal care for both men and women. Described in The Magazine of Wall Street and Business Analyst in 1968, Xanadu was anticipated to bring forth a new era in beauty products, offering an innovative blend of luxury and efficacy. With its launch, Xanadu aimed to redefine beauty standards and set new benchmarks in the industry.

The Magazine of Wall Street and Business Analyst, 1968:

"Early in 1969, Faberge will introduce Xanadu, a new concept in skin creams, toiletries and cosmetics for both sexes."

Clavel de España by Myrurgia c1922

In 1922, the time when "Clavel de España" by Myrurgia was launched, Spain was deeply connected to carnations culturally and symbolically. Carnations, or "clavel" in Spanish, held significant meaning in Spanish tradition, often associated with love, passion, and the spirit of Spain itself. The flower adorned celebrations, bullfights, and was a symbol of national identity.

During this period, Spain experienced a cultural renaissance known as the Silver Age, marked by a resurgence in literature, arts, and music. While specific films or songs directly referencing carnations might not have been prominent, the theme of Spanish identity and romanticism pervaded various artistic expressions of the time.

Myrurgia likely chose the name "Clavel de España" for its perfume to capitalize on this cultural symbolism. "Clavel de España" translates to "Carnation of Spain" in English, directly evoking the image of Spain's beloved flower. This choice would resonate deeply with women of the time, offering a fragrance that not only captured the essence of the carnation but also embodied the spirit of Spanish passion and romance.

For women in the early 1920s, a perfume named "Clavel de España" would evoke images of vibrant red carnations, the warmth of Spanish sunsets, and the allure of Spanish culture. The fragrance would likely be perceived as elegant, passionate, and evocative of a romanticized Spain.

The name itself, "Clavel de España," suggests uniqueness and cultural richness. It stands out as a distinctive choice in the perfume market, appealing to those who appreciate the heritage and symbolism associated with carnations in Spanish culture.

Emotionally, "Clavel de España" would evoke feelings of nostalgia, romance, and perhaps a sense of pride in Spanish identity. The scent would be expected to capture the essence of carnations—floral, spicy, and warm—creating a sensory experience that resonates with its cultural references.

Overall, "Clavel de España" by Myrurgia represents a thoughtful blend of cultural heritage and perfume artistry, appealing to women who seek a fragrance that embodies both elegance and the spirit of Spain encapsulated in the vibrant red carnation.